The Unexpected Gift of a Garden Makeover

August 3, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

In March 2020, as the COVID shutdown closed garden centres and much of everyday life, my husband and I began the first phase of making my mother’s garden easier to maintain. Her Hamilton home had long been hidden from the street by a dense Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) hedge and a tall wooden driveway gate.

The hedge was much hated by my brothers and I when we still lived there because we had to help trim it every 3 weeks during the growing season. And now my 80-year-old Mom was still climbing a ladder to trim it, worrying us all!

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: The Chinese Elm hedge and the wooden driveway gate (left) had been hiding an ornate Victorian wrought-iron fence for at least 60 years.

When she suggested restoring the antique Victorian fence buried within the hedge, I eagerly agreed. It was the perfect opportunity to remove both the hedge and the front lawn, creating a lower-maintenance landscape.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: Chinese Elm can be identified by its small, simple, alternate leaves that are elliptical to ovate, dark green, glossy, and finely serrated. Leaves are 1–2.5 inches long, with an asymmetrical base and a lateral vein ending in a tooth.

To prevent the vigorous Chinese Elm from resprouting, we dug several inches below each stump and made a second cut beneath the soil surface. We replaced the hedge and lawn with conifers for year-round structure, flowering shrubs for seasonal colour, and natural cedar mulch over landscape fabric to reduce watering and weeding.

Photos: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: Chinese elm stems were first cut above soil level (left), then soil was dug out around each stump (right) so that root stocks could be cut again several inches below the soil surface to prevent resprouting. The restored Victorian fence and newly smithed matching driveway gate had already been installed before work began.

Photos: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: Preparation of holes (left) and freshly planted columnar white cedars, Dwarf Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), European Smoke Bush (Cotinus coggygria), Shrubby Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) and Goldmound Spirea (Spirea japonica) (right). Landscape cloth covered by natural cedar mulch was used to minimize both watering in early years of establishment and weeding.

Results and an Unexpected Reward

The transformation eliminated the constant hedge trimming and lawn mowing. After the first year of regular watering, maintenance was limited to my annual pruning of the Potentilla and Spirea, coppicing the Smoke Bush, and topping up the cedar mulch each spring.

The biggest surprise, however, was how opening the garden to the street transformed my mother’s experience. The restored Victorian fence and new driveway gate allowed passersby to admire the perennial gardens inside, which I had also helped refresh in 2020. People regularly stopped to compliment her, and some even said they had changed their walking route so they could enjoy it every day. Those conversations and kind words brought my mother tremendous joy. Gardens are meant to be shared, and for nearly 50 years the solid wooden gate and Chinese Elm hedge had hidden this one from view.

Photos: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: *View into the garden from the new driveway gate.*

In 2022, she opened her garden for the now-discontinued Hamilton Spectator Open Garden Week, and it was featured in the Hamilton Spectator by organizer and columnist Rob Howard.

One of the many people who admired the garden while walking his dog later nominated my mother for a City of Hamilton Trillium Award, which recognizes excellence in residential landscaping and community beautification. In 2024, she was delighted to receive a White Trillium Award, that recognizes the top-scoring gardens in each city ward, and was honoured with the award again in 2025.

Gardening has been a lifelong passion for my mother. Transforming the front garden into a beautiful, low-maintenance landscape not only eliminated the demanding chore of biweekly hedge and lawn care, but also created a space that brings joy to both the gardener and everyone who passes by.

REFERENCES

Biology Insights. 2026. How to Get Rid of Chinese Elm Trees for Good. https://biologyinsights.com/how-to-get-rid-of-chinese-elm-trees-for-good/

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Gardening as We Age

Books, Dreams, Garden Design, Perennials

As Good as it Gets!

July 27, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener

We are into the dog days of summer, too hot to do much actual gardening, but a good time to enjoy the garden.

As you wander through your garden, remember to stop and smell the roses, take note of what brings a smile to your face. Where have you found success in the garden? What have you enjoyed?

Virginia bluebells (*Mertensia virginica),* another native, also put on a great show this spring.

So far, so good in my garden! Spring was slow to come but the cool and wet weather allowed spring flowering bulbs and shrubs to hold onto their petals for an extended period. Often, there is a hot spell that puts a too quick end to those blossoms that took months to arrive. This year was different with daffodils, tulips, and alliums lasting for weeks and weeks. From the early forsythias, the magnolias, to the treasured native serviceberry, lilacs, and all that follows, it was a spectacular show of spring flowers.

Sicilian Honey garlic (Allium siculum) is one of my favourite bulbs. I planted several in fall 2024 but was disappointed when only small flowers with weak stems emerged in their first season. Somewhat discouraged, but still enamoured with the flower, I planted a few more bulbs in the fall of 2025. This spring all of the bulbs put on a good show. Those in the second year had stronger, sturdier stems with bigger flowers and the first year bulbs were equally pleasing. I also splurged on some less common bulbs: hair allium (Allium vineale ‘Hair’) – weird, disheveled, and late flowering; Schubertii allium (Allium shubertii) – perfect for dried flower interest long after the flowers have faded, and a couple of Red Mohican allium (Allium amethystinum) – big and bold.

There were a few days of hot weather when the peonies opened up but the heat didn’t last and they didn’t get flattened by a hard, strong rainstorm. Coral Charm is my current favourite peony, I wait every spring for it to bloom and when it does, I stop by and admire it several times a day. I’ve got mine planted beside Sun King Golden Spikenard (Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’), a perfect contrast that makes each more special. Another favourite is the classic Sarah Bernhardt, I can’t help but stick my nose into the luscious soft petals when they appear. And of course, the Itoh peonies!

A few years ago I was inspired by a clematis grower who claimed there was always room for more clematis anywhere in the garden, especially at the base of trees where they could scramble up and around the trunk and in through the branches. I found a few clematis at an end of season sale – sadly, all unnamed – and planted them as suggested, at the base of a few trees. The tree flowers first, then gets decorated once again when it’s time for the clematis to bloom. This worked particularly well with a lilac coloured clematis that wound its way up through the purple red leaves of a crabapple (Malus ‘Thunderchild’). Blossoms face downward, they nod happily amongst the small purple crab apples. It’s an exquisite combination. A native clematis, Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana) is fragrant, quick growing and perfect to scramble up the leafless branches of a suffering Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa; the tree lost a large limb in the ice storm, then suffered through the cold winter. There’s new growth at the base and on one of the limbs; for now, the clematis has a built in trellis until I decide whether the tree will remain.)

Unnamed clematis scrambling up ‘Thunderchild’ crab-apple

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Amber Jubilee’) has been a thing of beauty since it first started to leaf out. The leaves emerge bright green, with a tinge of amber, then shifting to orange and gold before the small white blossoms appear on previous years’ growth. The blossoms turn red and all the while there is a happy crowd of pollinators buzzing around. Equally appealing and another native, is the serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) . Early in July it was a great source of food for birds, there are none left for us, but we admire it daily since it first showed its welcome white blossoms in early spring. It will bring another flush of colour in the fall.

The show is not over, the daylilies are here, dahlias are just beginning to bud out and they will take centre-stage right through October or until a very hard frost. Amongst them and scattered throughout the garden, are the nodding stems of Verbena (Verbena bonariensis ). These are an annual but self-seed from one year to the next. I take care not to disturb the soil where they were planted the previous year and then transplant the seedlings throughout the garden once the stems and stalks of the tulips and daffodils are ready to be cleared away. Enjoy it all!

A few suggestions for reading in the garden:

The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Regions by Rick Gray and Shawn Booth

The Garden Against Time: In Search of a Common Paradise by Olivia Laing

RHS The Creative Gardener: Inspiration and Advice to Create the Space You Want by Adam Frost

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Botanical Names, Butterflies and Moths, Invasive, Native Plants, New Gardens, Planting, Shade Gardening, Sun Gardening, Wildflowers, Winter Sowing

Beware those Wildflower Mixes!

July 20, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

The Oxford Dictionary defines “wildflower” as “a flower of an uncultivated variety or a flower growing freely without human intervention.” It has nothing to do with the species’ native range, its benefits for pollinators, or its impacts on ecosystems. A “wildflower” could be native, non-native or at worst invasive.

Last year at this time, I wrote a blog post about roadside wildflowers. Most of these flowers (like chicory [Cichorium intybus] on the left or Oxeye Daisy [Leucanthemum vulgare]) are non-native opportunists from Europe or Asia that colonize quickly on disturbed sites or ditches and wetlands and outcompete native species, but lots of people assume they are native because they’re everywhere along roadsides (I did for years!).

The bottom line? Wildflower does not equal native.

So, if you want to buy a wildflower mix to create a long-term habitat for native pollinators, beneficial insects, and bees in your gardens, the mixes found at big box stores and large nurseries are probably not the mixes you want.

Why the Label can Mislead

A lot of retail “wildflower” mixes are designed for fast colour. They focus on non-native annual flowers, which bloom quickly and beautifully in the first season but fail to support local pollinators (and isn’t that the point?), or can even become invasive.

While mixes don’t need to be exclusively comprised of species native to Ontario to provide good habitat for pollinators and beneficial insects (although that’s the best case scenario), they shouldn’t be invasive and should be perennials so that your garden continues to look good year after year.

Why is this Important?

Pollinators need more than flowers that simply look pretty. They need plants that fit local conditions and provide food, shelter, and nesting support over time – that are beneficial to the local ecosystem.

What’s the biggest red flag? Seed mixes that only provide the common names of species instead of the scientific (Latin) names. While common names can be easier to remember and pronounce, they also vary by region, and one plant can have several different common names. This can cause confusion about what the actual species is.

A Case in Point

Last year at the PMG A Day for Gardeners a lady approached me with a large bag of pollinator seed mix as I was working on the advice table. She wanted to know if it was good. There were no Latin names (first red flag) so I asked her to leave it with me to investigate.

After checking as best I could we determined that almost 80 percent of the seeds were not native and were annuals. She planned on returning the bag to the store.

The Problem with Mixed Seed Packets

Big companies that sell across Canada create one seed mix to sell across the entire country but what might be native in Alberta probably won’t be in Ontario
Seeds have different germination requirements so you may find some seeds don’t germinate at all
Different seeds may not grow well together
Some seeds may not like your site conditions and others may become dominant

The worst problem is if they contain non-native, invasive seeds.

Let’s look at an example. McKenzie Wildflowers Pollinator Mix.

Only five flowers native to Ontario (*) and all less than 5% of the mix except for the Purple Coneflower, which is 12.67% and Lanceleaf coreopsis, which is 6.33%
The first three flowers, which comprise over 42% of the mix, are all non-native
Your seeds are only 14% of the mix – the rest is vermiculite (filler)

Here’s a full breakdown.

Better Ways to Choose

The best seed mixes are transparent. They tell you exactly which species are included, how much of each is in the packet, and whether the plants are native to your region. Regional native mixes can be useful, especially when they include a balance of annuals and perennials and are clearly suited to your regional climate.

If you’re serious about supporting biodiversity, the most important thing you can do is choose seeds that are native to your specific region.

I’ve seen several companies create better wildflower mixes in the past few years, including Northern Wildflowers, Native Plants in Claremont, OSC and, for large projects, St Williams Ecology Centre. I’m sure there are others I have missed so be sure to comment if you know any!

One key thing to remember with native plant seeds is that most need winter stratification (a cool, wet natural dormancy period over winter) to germinate well. That means that direct garden sowing should take place in the late fall after the first frost (mid-September to November, depending on your region), not in the spring. If seeds can’t be stratified, many will not germinate until the following spring and germination rates may be slightly lower.

A Simple Rule for Gardeners

If your goal is to truly help pollinators, choose local native plants first and sow your seeds in the fall for best germination. Avoid mystery mixes (especially those with only common names), check the label closely, and be cautious of bags that promise an instant meadow without giving details. Colourful flowers are nice, but real pollinator support comes from the right plants in the right place, and that doesn’t happen overnight.

Choose the Right Seeds – Go Native, Not Just “Wild”

Additional Reading

What native plants attract pollinators in Ontario? — David Suzuki Foundation
Good Intentions, Harmful Impact: Wildflower Seed — PEI Invasive Species Council
Wildflower seed mix – For friends on Canada’s Prairies
Ecoregional Planting Guidelines – Pollinator Partnership

Vegetable Gardening, Planting

Fresh Crops for Fall: Make the Most of Your Garden This Season

July 13, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

It’s mid-July in my Zone 5b garden, and it’s hot. My zucchini and cucumbers have finally started producing after a cold, challenging spring, tomatoes are beginning to ripen, and I’m harvesting bush beans by the handful. While it feels like peak gardening season, I’m already planning my next harvest. Mid-summer is the perfect time to think about succession planting – a simple way to keep your garden productive well into the fall.

Succession planting is the practice of sowing new crops as others finish, allowing you to make the most of your growing season and garden space.

In Peterborough, Ontario, our growing season averages about 150 frost-free days, leaving plenty of time for another crop before fall.

What I’m harvesting: Garlic

By the end of July, I’m pulling my garlic crop and curing it before storage, leaving a large empty patch in my garden.

What I’m succession planting: Bush Beans

Bush beans have a short seeding to harvest window, 50 to 60 days, meaning I can plant another round where my garlic has been pulled and get a harvest before first frost.

What I’m harvesting: Zucchini and Cucumbers

My cucurbit crop is usually showing signs of stress in late summer, and I will often pull plants that are no longer producing.

What I’m succession planting: Root Vegetables

The empty space left by my cucumber and zucchini plants can be filled by fall root crops like beets, carrots and turnips. These crops can often take a few light frosts before being harvested.

What I’m harvesting: Leafy Greens

Lettuce is notorious for bolting in summer heat, becoming bitter and unappetizing. Time to pull your sad lettuce plants to make room.

What I’m succession planting: Brassicas

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower thrive in cool weather. Sowing them now means that you can have a bountiful fall harvest that will easily withstand a few light frosts.

A few things to remember when succession planting:

Your newly available garden space will more than likely be depleted of nutrients and require a boost. Before planting a new crop, amend the soil with compost to support healthy growth.

New plants will need protection from pests that have already established. Be sure to cover brassicas to protect them from cabbage moth damage, and inspect your garden every few days for insect and disease damage.

Seeds planted in mid-summer can dry out more quickly than spring plantings. Keep your soil consistently moist until seedlings are established, and use a layer of mulch once plants emerge to retain moisture.

Always check the days to harvest information on seed packets. If you’re planting seeds in mid-July and your first frost is typically October 1st, you have about 70 growing days available. As long as the plant you choose matures in less than 70 days, you should be safe to plant.

Don’t think of July as the beginning of the end of your garden. Think of it as the beginning of your fall harvest. With a little planning and the right crops, you can continue harvesting fresh vegetables well into the fall.

Resources for further reading on succession planting:

Ontario Planting Calendar

Seeds for Successional Planting

Succession Planting Chart

Information, Perennials, Propagation, Sedums, Uncategorized

Monocarpic Succulents: The Plant That Blooms Once and Says Goodbye

July 6, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

If you’ve ever had a succulent like “Hens & Chicks” Sempervivum that suddenly produces a tall flower stalk and then begins to die, don’t panic—you probably didn’t do anything wrong. You may have discovered a monocarpic plant.

The word monocarpic simply means “flowers once.” These plants spend years growing into beautiful rosettes, storing energy in their thick, fleshy leaves. When conditions are right, they put all that energy into one spectacular flowering display. After the flowers fade, the main plant dies.

It may sound sad, but it’s actually a perfectly normal part of the plant’s life cycle.

Many popular succulents are monocarpic, including the already mentioned hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum), but also some Aeonium species (non-hardy succulents), and many Agave varieties (tequila, anyone?). The good news is that these plants often produce offsets, or “pups,” around their base before or during flowering. These baby plants continue growing long after the parent plant has finished its life.

If your monocarpic succulent starts to flower, enjoy the show if you appreciate them! Once the main rosette has completely died, simply remove it and allow the pups to fill in the space. Before long, you’ll have a healthy new generation of plants.

BUT if you’re like me and find the flowers messy, feel free to cut all of the flower stalks out — you aren’t removing anything that isn’t already on the way out. While you’re pruning, keep an eye out for the new offsets that will take their place and push them back into the soil if they pop out with the parent.

Nature has many surprising strategies, and monocarpic succulents remind us that sometimes the grandest finale is also a last hurrah!

Bees & Pollinators, Hedging, Shrubs & Trees, Wildflowers

Huzzah for the Hedgerow! The Hardworking Helper Our Countryside Needs

June 29, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners 1 Comment

By Thomas Luloff, Master Gardener

This past fall, I had the opportunity to spend several weeks in southwest England while completing a teaching secondment at Hartpury University. As a conservation biologist from Ontario, I expected to learn about agriculture, veterinary science, and education. What I didn’t expect was to become completely fascinated by hedgerows.

Everywhere I looked, the English countryside seemed stitched together by them. Ancient lines of hawthorn, blackthorn, hazel, dog rose, and mature trees divided fields into a patchwork quilt of green. Even in heavily farmed landscapes, there was always a hedge nearby. For wildlife, these weren’t simply field boundaries; they were highways, restaurants, nurseries, and safe havens all rolled into one.

In the United Kingdom, approximately 70% of the land is farmed, leaving relatively little truly wild space for nature. Yet despite this, England still contains roughly 400,000 kilometres of managed hedgerows; enough to circle the Earth almost ten times. These hedgerows are considered the most widespread semi-natural habitat in the British countryside and support hundreds of species of plants, birds, mammals, reptiles, insects, and fungi.

Walking through the countryside, it became obvious why they are so important. Hedgerows are alive. Their spring blossoms feed pollinators. Their berries sustain birds through winter. Their tangled branches provide nesting sites for songbirds. Badgers use them as travel corridors. Bats follow them like aerial highways. And of course, perhaps their most famous resident, the hedgehog, relies heavily on hedgerows for shelter, nesting sites, and protection from predators. Hedgerows are often described as “wildlife corridors,” but that phrase barely captures their value. They are entire ecosystems stretched across the landscape.

What struck me most was how different this is from much of rural Ontario.

Across Canada, agricultural fields have grown steadily larger as machinery has become larger and more efficient. Fence rows have disappeared. Small woodlots have been removed. Wetlands have been drained. In many areas, hedgerows have been sacrificed in the pursuit of uninterrupted fields that can accommodate modern equipment.

For us, crossing a large corn or soybean field might seem insignificant. We can simply walk across it in a few minutes. But imagine being a sparrow, salamander, garter snake, or tree frog. Suddenly, that open field becomes a vast and dangerous desert. There is no shade. No shelter. No water. No protection from predators overhead.

Many songbirds move through landscapes one patch of cover at a time, flitting from branch to branch and shrub to shrub. A large exposed field can become an effective barrier, isolating populations and making it difficult for wildlife to access food, nesting sites, and mates. Research consistently shows that hedgerows improve habitat connectivity and allow wildlife to move safely through agricultural landscapes.

The benefits extend beyond wildlife.

Hedgerows are remarkably effective environmental infrastructure. They reduce wind speeds, helping protect crops and soils. They capture snow during winter, slowing runoff and helping recharge groundwater. They reduce soil erosion, intercept nutrients before they reach waterways, and store significant amounts of carbon in both their woody biomass and surrounding soils. Research has shown that hedgerows can substantially increase soil carbon storage while also supporting biodiversity.

These benefits feel especially relevant in Central Ontario, where severe windstorms and extreme weather events seem increasingly common. While we often think about climate resilience in terms of expensive infrastructure projects, sometimes the solution is as simple as planting trees and shrubs in the right places.

The good news is that gardeners and landowners can bring some of the magic of the English hedgerow home. A hedgerow doesn’t need to be kilometres long to make a difference. Even a property boundary planted with native shrubs such as serviceberry, nannyberry, chokecherry, dogwood, elderberry (among so many others!), can provide food and shelter for wildlife throughout the year. Leave the berries standing through winter. Allow the vegetation to grow dense and somewhat untidy. Let it become a place where wildlife can hide.

In a world increasingly dominated by large-scale landscapes and manicured spaces, hedgerows remind us that nature thrives in the margins. They are proof that conservation doesn’t always require vast wilderness areas. Sometimes it simply requires a line of shrubs connecting one patch of habitat to another.

So here’s a hearty huzzah for the hedgerow; the hardworking helper of the countryside. Quietly holding soil in place, sheltering wildlife, storing carbon, slowing winds, feeding birds, and connecting landscapes, one branch at a time.

References

Blair, J., Olave, R., & McAdam, J. (2018). Hedgerows as a Form of Agroforestry to Sequester and Store Carbon in Agricultural Landscapes: A Review. 4th European Agroforestry Conference.

Hedgelink. (2024). Importance of Hedgerows. Retrieved from https://hedgelink.org.uk/guidance/importance-of-hedgerows/

UK Centre for Ecology & Hydrology. (2024). Urgent Need to Enable More Farmers and Contractors to Revive England’s Network of Hedgerows. Retrieved from https://www.ceh.ac.uk/press/urgent-need-enable-more-farmers-and-contractors-revive-englands-network-hedgerows

Woodland Trust. (2025). Hedgerows. Retrieved from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/habitats/hedgerows/

Royal Geographical Society. (2024). Mapping England’s Hedgerow Landscape. Retrieved from https://www.rgs.org/about-us/what-is-geography/geovisualisation/mapping-englands-hedgerow-landscape

Advice, Perennials, Sun Gardening

Peonies, one of my favourite perennials

June 22, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

I love some of the old fashioned perennials that have been around for a very long time. One of them is the peony, and as you drive around you can often see abandoned farms surrounded by flowering peonies, often in the burgundy shade. Some peonies can bloom for 100 years if planted in the right place.

There are over 30 species of peonies and 3 different types:

Herbaceous – the one that we are most familiar with and native to eastern Asia.

Tree peonies – they resemble a shrub and have woody stems.

Itoh peonies – are an intersectional peony and native to Japan. It was bred by crossing an herbaceous peony with a woody tree peony and has characteristics of both peony types.

Herbaceous peonies are cold hardy and require a cold season to bloom. The rhizomes do not like to be buried too deep, ½ inch to 2 inch only. Plant the eyes ( next year’s buds) no more than 2 inches below the soil surface. If you mulch them , ensure that the mulch is set back from the rhizomes to ensure that they are not buried too deeply. The stems die back in winter and emerge in the spring. They do not like to be moved so think carefully about the right site. They like full sun and require good drainage.

Herbaceous peonies — will do better if they are staked or supported with peony rings early in the season. This keeps their gorgeous blooms upright and also provides better air circulation.

Peonies resist most pests and don’t worry if you see ants on the buds. Peonies secrete sweet nectar on the buds and that attracts ants. In fact ants will help protect the buds from other flower eating insects. This is called “mutualism”.

Tree peonies – require a large hole 2 feet deep and 1 foot wide as they will grow into a 4 to 6 foot shrub . Amend the soil with organic matter and position the graft 4 to 6 inches below ground level. They have permanent, woody stems and don’t die back in the winter. I wrap mine with burlap to protect the buds.

Itoh peonies – thy have the best characteristic of both the other peonies. Plant them just below the soil surface. They bloom on old wood so don’t cut them back. Itoh’s are shorter than the other 2 and don’t need staking. They can have a second bloom cycle later in the season.

If you do plan to divide your peonies the best time is late summer or early fall. Make sure that there are 3 to 5 eyes on each divided section. Make sure that you plant the new section at the same level as it was planted previously

Peonies come in many shapes and forms, single, double, some with amazing centres and many, many colours. These include white, cream, many shades of pink, burgundy, purple, red, coral and yellow. Most peonies are very fragrant.

We are extremely fortunate to have Joe and Hazel Cook of Blossom Hill Nursery in our area. They have hybridized and grown many, many prize winning peonies. Check online for their opening hours.

My peonies are just coming into bloom and make wonderful cut flowers. If there any ants on the buds just swish them through water and shake gently to remove the ants.

Generally speaking, peonies are low maintenance and drought resistant. Once established they will give you many years of amazing blooms and gorgeous fragrance.

Container Gardening, Overwintering, Perennials

Container Gardening with Native Plants

June 15, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

Have you ever considered container gardening with native plants? If you are keen to hear the buzz of pollinators on your balcony, or in a limited gardening space or around the accessibility of a raised bed this is a viable way to add native plants to your environment. What brought me to this topic was being asked twice in one afternoon for advice on using perennial native plants in containers. So yes, I am talking about native plants but the practice would be similar to planting any perennial in a container. The hardiness of your chosen plant is an important consideration so avoid plants that are borderline hardy for your hardiness zone.

Containers can be wood, ceramic, fibreglass or textile grow bags. Metal may absorb too much heat in summer and terra cotta may crack in winter. If you plan on moving them, weight will be an important consideration. Ensure there are drainage holes in the bottom. It is not advised to use stones or clay shards in the bottom of your container as this practice of adding rubble can actually hinder drainage. The planting material should be light and fertile and can include potting soil with compost and perlite. The size of your container will determine the number of plants you can include and bigger is probably better. The larger the container the more your plants will be protected from the damaging effects of the freeze thaw cycle we experience in winter. To help overwinter, keep them in a shady spot if possible and mulch heavily with organic material such as dead leaves.

Watering a container is definitely a commitment over the growing season and native plants are no different, requiring ongoing attention to their moisture needs until winter.

When it comes to plant choice, it is the same as choosing plants for a garden. Right plant, right place! Plants preferring the same conditions of light and moisture will make it easier to care them. Blooming Boulevards has an excellent guide on this topic including plants for all conditions.

Another place to start looking for suitable native plants for containers is The Wildflower Seed Library. The excellent book The Gardeners’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region by Rick Gray and Shaun Boothe includes an appendix for landscape use of native plants including plants for containers.

My photos which I have included are just a few of the many beautiful options for creating a beautiful container display that will be bring a buzz to your life!

Resources

www.torontomastergardeners.ca/gardeningguides/container-gardening-a-toronto-master-gardeners-guide

Container Gardening: A Toronto Master Gardeners Guide

Slugs and Bugs, Spring, Uncategorized, Vegetable Gardening

Growing the best cucumbers!

June 8, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Christine Freeburn, Peterborough Master Gardener

Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are a warm weather vegetable which means they don’t like cooler spring temperatures. If you are starting from seed, plant indoors and grow under lights 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.

Growing in peat or coir pellets will help with transplanting shock, but do not let pellets dry out. Germination takes 6 to 10 days. Remember to harden off, before putting into ground that is warm (18C to 22C), usually the end of May.

If you are purchasing seedlings, be mindful of outdoor temperatures when planting. Anything below 10C and plants could shock, setting them back or even killing them. If June nights are cool (we could still have a frosty night in June), cover your plants with a bed sheet or heavier row cover.

There are many different varieties of cucumber from the ‘Straight Eight’ or ‘Marketmore76’ which are a slicing type, pickling varieties like ‘Avenger’, minis like ‘Manny’ and the popular seedless English type like ‘Summer Dance’.

You may also notice, they are listed as Garden or Greenhouse varieties. Greenhouse types are often thin skinned, want it warm and don’t require pollination, and so are good for growing under cover or in a greenhouse. If you are growing your cucumbers in hills, the garden variety is fine.

When you are reading catalogues or seed packets, check the pollination key for your chosen variety. This tells you what each variety needs to pollinate and bear fruit. Cucumbers that have stubby ends or no growth have not been pollinated fully.

Pollination Key
Monoecious - male and female flowers on the same plant, so one plant will do, however pollination does need to happen, so invite pollinators to your garden. You can also pollinate yourself. The female flower is identified by having a tiny fruit just behind it. You can remove a fresh male blossom and gently rub it against the pollen of the female to help with fertilization.
Gynoecious - plants have only female flowers and need another plant to pollinate
Parthenocarpic - these plants do not require pollination and are usually Greenhouse varieties.

Cucumbers need lots of compost/fertilizer as they are heavy feeders. They also need to be evenly moist. Water the soil, not the plant to prevent powdery mildew and other viral diseases.

You can grow cucumbers up a trellis. In fact, I recommend it as this helps to keep fruit clean, encourages good air flow to reduce disease and can keep pests away. You will need to train the vines. Use clips to gently hold in place. Install your trellis or whatever you are using, when you plant your cucumbers and before they begin to grow.

Cucumbers can also be grown in containers where it is easier to keep them evenly moist and mulched. And you can still trellis them, if you are buying the vining type. I use 3 bamboo stakes which I put in a teepee shape by tying the tops together. You can purchase bush type cucumbers, which are more compact than vining types, but production is not as high with bush types.

The cucumber beetle is the main pest for this crop. Crop rotation is important as beetles overwinter in soil, coming out of soil in mid summer to munch on your plants and transmit bacterial wilt. Planting nasturtiums, dill or marigolds may help to keep the pests away. The best remedy is row covers. Put row covers on new plants as soon as they go into the ground. Covers will need to be removed for pollination, once flowers appear.

Pick cucumbers in the morning when they hold the most moisture. Pick fruit often to encourage more to grow. Cucumbers contain vitamin K, potassium, antioxidants and fibre. Enjoy them!

References

Cucumber

William Dam Seeds

Book – Growing Under Cover – Niki Jabbour – Storey Publications

Health, Information, Injuries, Seniors, Warmup and Cooldown

Plant Therapy: The Dirt on How Gardening Helps Us Stay Physically Fit

June 1, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Amanda McIlhone, Master Gardener in Training

“Gardening adds years to your life and life to your years.” – Unknown

Gardeners and non-gardeners alike can all agree that tending a garden, while incredibly satisfying and rewarding, can also be physically demanding. When we enter our green spaces, we often focus on the plants before us, prioritizing tasks and brainstorming solutions to gardening challenges.

However, what we may not always consider are the significant benefits gardening offers to our physical health.

The physical act of gardening typically involves tasks such as digging, lifting, walking, kneeling, and bending. These activities require us to engage our brains, muscles, hearts, bones, and lungs.

Some may classify gardening simply as a physical activity — which is fair — but I would argue that it can also serve as a form of exercise with far-reaching and long-lasting health benefits.

Gardening Benefits for our Physical Health

Protects against cognitive decline. Gardening requires planning, multitasking, and problem-solving, all of which challenge and stimulate the brain. The physicality involved in gardening also increases blood flow and oxygen to the brain and can significantly decrease the risk of Alzheimers and other forms of dementia.

Engages all major muscle groups. Gardening works the arms, legs, abdominals, shoulders, glutes, neck, and back. Maintaining physical strength as we age is incredibly important for preserving mobility, coordination, and independence. Strong muscles also help prevent life-altering falls and fractures by improving balance and overall stability.

Excellent for heart health. Gardening can increase your heart rate and improve circulation. It can help lower blood pressure and reduce the risk of strokes, diabetes while supporting cardiovascular health overall.

Supports bone health. Gardening can help increase bone mineral density, which may prevent or combat the effects of osteoporosis. Spending time outdoors also provides a healthy dose of Vitamin D, which is essential for strong bones.

Improves lung health. Breathing fresh air in an oxygen-rich environment can help improve lung capacity and efficiency, allowing us to work, play, and live more actively. Lungs also play a role in detoxification as they help us expel toxins and carbon dioxide, a form of metabolic waste.

Gardening can help us live longer, healthier, and more fulfilling lives. However, it is important to always listen to your body when engaging in any type of physical activity.

It is always advisable to consult with your doctor before beginning any new physical activity, especially if it causes pain or discomfort. Avoiding overexertion, staying hydrated, and stretching are essential practices for maximizing the health benefits of gardening.

Spending time in our gardens engages both the mind and body, encourages social connection, and provides exposure to Vitamin D — the “sunshine vitamin” — all while offering an incredible sense of satisfaction and accomplishment.

It is no wonder that gardening remains a recommended activity for seniors, not only because of its far-reaching benefits, but also because it can be modified to suit everyone’s individual needs and preferences.