Lessons from the Garden

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

It’s early October in my zone 5b garden, and the season is winding down. Clean up has replaced harvesting, seed packets have long since been packed away and I’m feeling melancholy. I’m mentally preparing myself for a long, cold Canadian winter, and winters seem to feel longer every year that passes. When I start to feel this fall sadness set in, I take a moment to reflect on the lessons my garden has taught me.

Patience

Good things come to those who wait. Whether it’s waiting for spring, waiting for seedlings to emerge, or waiting for your harvest to ripen, the anticipation makes the result that much sweeter. My growing season has a beginning and an end, and that rhythm gives me time to remember what has come to pass and look forward to a new beginning.

“Four Reasons to Cultivate Patience”

Take Risks

Over more than 10 years of gardening, I have made plenty of mistakes. It’s natural to fear failing at a new task, but failure is just an opportunity for learning and growth. Take a chance in your garden next year – grow a plant from seed that you normally buy as an established plant, try a new variety of vegetable, dive in! If it doesn’t work out, make note of what you might change for the following season and try again.

“Why Taking Risks Helps You Grow – and How to Do It”

Resilience

We all face adversity in our lives, and resilience is our ability to move beyond it. I’ve had many instances when my garden was not working out the way I had planned. Drought, extreme weather and insect damage have decimated my crops in the past. Instead of throwing in the towel, I learned to pivot, adapt and come up with a new plan. My garden has taught me that sometimes resilience means accepting things that don’t go as expected and finding a new way forward.

“The Magic of Resilience”

Mindfulness

Our lives are busy. Work, kids, partners, hobbies… And technology connecting it all. When I’m in the garden I can disconnect, slow down and be mindful. The warmth of the sun on my skin, the buzzing of bees, the feel of earth in my hands all make me feel grounded. Calmer.

Taking time to feel centered and reconnect with nature can benefit our mental and physical health, all while pulling a few pesky weeds.

“The Science of Mindfulness”

As another growing season comes to an end, I’m reminded that the garden gives us more than flowers and food. It teaches us to be patient, take chances, adapt, and slow down enough to appreciate the moment. Winter may be long, but I’ll carry these lessons with me until I’m in my garden again.

Soil Your Undies…?

By Sandra Caswell, Master Gardener In Training

Bet that title got your attention!

In her last blog, MJ talked about “Garden Maintenance Tasks for September and October.” I’m going to pick up on that theme with another important fall task: building your soil—and, as you’ll soon see, that’s where underwear comes in.

Microbial activity is key to a healthy garden. Microbes include worms, insects, spiders, and all sorts of other creepy crawlies that call your soil home. Think of them as your garden’s best friends.

One of their most important jobs is aerating the soil. This helps water penetrate deeply and gives plant roots room to spread out and down in search of nutrients. Strong roots below mean strong, healthy plants above.

Fall is a great time to support your soil’s microbial community. After removing spent annuals, spread 2–3 inches of organic matter—such as compost, manure, or worm castings—over the soil. The goal is to disturb microbial life as little as possible. Instead of tilling the compost in, simply leave it on top and let the microbes munch away all winter, gradually working it into the soil for you.

That’s what I do with two of my raised vegetable beds. In the other two, I plant a cover crop, typically winter rye. It acts as a “green manure,” helping improve soil nutrients, including nitrogen and potassium. I scatter the winter rye seed, lightly rake it in, and water it for a few days until it sprouts.

Next spring, I’ll turn the rye into the beds and let it decompose for about a month before planting. Voilà—organically recharged soil! The microbes will be happy, and so will next year’s vegetables.

So, What’s This Got to Do With Burying Your Undies?

Every April, the Soil Conservation Council of Canada encourages farmers, gardeners, and backyard scientists to try a surprisingly entertaining test of soil health: bury your underwear.

The idea is simple. Bury a pair of 100% cotton underwear in your garden and dig it up a few months later. The faster the cotton decomposes, the more microbial activity is happening in your soil.

It may sound like a joke—and, admittedly, your neighbours may have questions—but the science behind it is legitimate.

Scientists at Switzerland’s Agroscope and the University of Zurich took the idea to a whole new level, leading a thousand citizen scientists in burying underwear in gardens, fields, and meadows. After two months, the participants dug up the undies and dried them for analysis.

And what did they find?  Microbial activity tended to be higher in private gardens, where gardeners regularly added organic matter and paid attention to moisture and irrigation. The underwear buried in those gardens showed the greatest degree of decomposition.  Grasslands showed the least microbial activity, while arable farmland fell somewhere in between.

In other words, the more thoroughly your garden destroys a pair of cotton underpants, the more lively things may be happening beneath the surface.

So, if you thought your garden tasks were finished for the season and it’s time to hang up your rake, think again.  Even if you have no intention of participating in the underwear challenge next spring, set your garden up for success by simply giving your soil a good helping of organic matter this fall. You’ll be feeding those hard-working microbes and setting your garden up for healthier soil next spring.  Your plants will thank you.  Your microbes will thank you.  And your underwear? Well, let’s just say it may have served an important scientific purpose.

Please see links below for more information about the Soil Your Undies challenge or the Swiss study.  Also listen to the last 15 minutes of the September 18th podcast of CBC’s Quirks and Quarks for a discussion with the lead scientist at the University of Zurich.

https://www.soilcc.ca/soil-your-undies

https://www.agroscope.admin.ch/en/proof-by-underpants

Garden Maintenance Tasks for September and October

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

September and October are busy months in the garden. The days are getting shorter, but there is still plenty to do before winter arrives.

Keep watering. Trees, shrubs and newly planted perennials need water until the ground freezes. This is especially important as our September has been quite dry this year so far. Give plants a thorough soaking rather than frequent, shallow watering.

Stay on top of weeds. Pull weeds before they set seed. Fall is also a good time to remove invasive plants and unwanted seedlings before they become established. In my garden, I’ve already cut back the daylily foliage and once the frost arrives, the hosta leaves will be next to go. It’s amazing to see the amount of unwanted seedlings and weeds that grow underneath both of those plants.

Deal with fallen leaves. Don’t feel that every leaf must be removed. Leaves can be left in garden beds where they provide winter cover and eventually add organic matter to the soil. On lawns, however, thick layers of leaves should be removed or chopped with the mower. Leaves can also be added to the compost pile.

Clean up the vegetable garden. Remove spent annual vegetables and any diseased plant material. Healthy plant debris can go into the compost pile, while diseased material should be removed from the garden.

Plant spring bulbs. September and October are good months to plant tulips, daffodils, crocuses and other spring-flowering bulbs. Plant them before the ground freezes — daffodils earlier, tulips later.

Don’t rush to cut everything down. Many perennials provide food and shelter for birds and beneficial insects through the winter. Leave attractive seed heads and sturdy stems standing where possible.

Finally, clean and put away garden tools, empty hoses, and store tender plants indoors before frost.

A little work now will make spring gardening easier—and leave something for us to look forward to during the winter!

How to get the Ultimate GLOW UP with a Firefly night show!

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener

There are few things that feel more like an Ontario summer than fireflies. On a warm June evening, just as the last light disappears behind the trees, the lawn suddenly begins to sparkle. One flash appears beside the garden. Then another. Soon tiny lanterns are drifting over the grass, blinking between shrubs and hovering along the edge of the woods. For a few weeks each summer, our gardens host one of nature’s most extraordinary light shows.

Yet there is much more happening here than summer magic and believe it or not, next summer’s “glow party” starts right now, with the steps we take in the autumn. 

A Love Letter Written in Light

To get right to the point, fireflies are not actually flies at all. They are beetles belonging to the family Lampyridae, and Ontario has a surprisingly rich diversity, with 23 species of firefly all with remarkably different life histories (Luk et al., 2011). 

Fireflies produce light through bioluminescence, a biochemical reaction occurring in specialized light organs. But those lights we see are not random. Each species has their own unique pattern of flashes, pauses, timing, and flight behaviour. In many familiar flashing species, males fly through the darkness broadcasting their luminous courtship signals while females, often closer to the ground, evaluate them and respond.

Essentially, that peaceful-looking summer meadow is filled with beetles sending romantic text messages.

Here is where gardeners become particularly important.

The adult fireflies dancing above our lawns may live for only a relatively short period, but much of the firefly life cycle happens on or beneath the ground.

Fireflies undergo complete metamorphosis: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Depending on the species and climate, larvae can spend a year or more developing in moist soil, leaf litter, woodland edges and other protected habitats before eventually pupating and emerging as adults. 

This means that for most of their lives, the fireflies in your garden aren’t flying at all. They’re crawling in it. 

And those larvae are surprisingly formidable predators. Many feed on soft-bodied invertebrates, including slugs, snails, worms and other small organisms. Ontario’s fireflies are therefore not simply beautiful additions to the garden; during their larval stage, many are active participants in the soil and litter food web (Luk et al., 2011). Think about that the next time you see a slug munching its way through your hostas!

So Where Have All the Fireflies Gone?

Many people have a similar memory: There used to be many more fireflies.

Quantifying firefly declines is complicated because long-term population datasets are limited, and trends differ among species and regions. We should therefore be cautious about assuming that every firefly species is declining everywhere.  But there are genuine reasons for concern.

A global assessment by firefly experts identified habitat loss, artificial light at night and pesticide use among the most important threats to firefly populations (Lewis et al., 2020). North American conservation assessments have likewise found that some species are considerably more vulnerable than others, particularly those with specialized habitat requirements (Fallon et al., 2021).

And unfortunately, many things we traditionally consider tasks of a “well-maintained” garden are almost exactly the opposite of what a firefly needs:

  • We rake away the leaves.
  • We remove fallen branches.
  • We cut the grass short.
  • We clear vegetation from damp corners.
  • And then we illuminate the property all night, preventing the way they communicate

From a firefly’s perspective, we’ve removed the bedroom, emptied the refrigerator and left the stadium lights on!

Use this Autumn to GLOW UP for next summer!

To get the glow up, we need the adult beetles.  

To get the beetles, we need healthy larvae.  

So, leave some leaf litter beneath shrubs and trees, particularly in places where it will remain moist. Maintain some scattered patches of taller vegetation. Allow a corner beside a hedge, woodland edge or garden bed to remain slightly wild. Keep woody debris where appropriate and preserve moist, shaded areas rather than trying to make every square metre of the property look manicured.

And because larvae live and hunt near the soil surface, reducing unnecessary soil disturbance and avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides can help preserve both fireflies and the invertebrate communities on which they depend. Habitat loss and pesticide exposure are among the major concerns identified for fireflies globally (Lewis et al., 2020).

And Please—Turn off (or down) the lights. Let nighttime be dark. Light pollution is now recognized as an important conservation concern for fireflies precisely because reproduction depends so heavily on visual communication (Lewis et al., 2020).  To prepare, use this autumn  to switch essential security lighting to motion sensors or timers. Direct necessary lights downward rather than outward into gardens and natural areas. 

And next summer, when darkness finally settles over an Ontario summer evening, perhaps the garden will turn its own lights on.

References

Fallon, C. E., Hoyle, S. M., Lewis, S. M., Owens, A. C. S., Lee-Mäder, E., Black, S. H., & Jepsen, S. (2021). Evaluating firefly extinction risk: Initial red list assessments for North America. PLOS ONE, 16(11), e0259379.

Lewis, S. M., & Cratsley, C. K. (2008). Flash signal evolution, mate choice, and predation in fireflies. Annual Review of Entomology, 53, 293–321.

Lewis, S. M., Wong, C. H., Owens, A. C. S., Fallon, C., Jepsen, S., Thancharoen, A., Wu, C., De Cock, R., Novák, M., López-Palafox, T., Khoo, V., & Reed, J. M. (2020). A global perspective on firefly extinction threats. BioScience, 70(2), 157–167.

Luk, S. P. L., Marshall, S. A., & Branham, M. A. (2011). The fireflies (Coleoptera: Lampyridae) of Ontario. Canadian Journal of Arthropod Identification, 16, 1–105.

Downsizing Your Garden to make it easier to Manage

By Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

As I get older and want to age in place, my current garden has become too large to manage. I also know that if I have to move, an extensive landscape may scare off potential buyers. So, it is time to take a long hard look at my garden and the plants in it. I have put together some suggestions and ideas to make it easier to enjoy your garden.

First of all, plan ahead to reduce the amount of time and physical effort needed to maintain the garden and make it easier to manage. And enjoy.

  • Prioritize a few plants that hold special memories that you really love and recognize that you want to keep them.
  • Ask your self the following questions about your perennials.
    • Is it waterwise?
    • Does it need staking or trellising?
    • Is it drought or heat resistant?
    • Does it get a lot of insect damage?
    • Does it require dead heading?
    • After blooming is it boring?

You may want to take out and give away high maintenance plants that meet the criteria above and think about replacing with these ideas.

  • Emphasize foliage rather than flowers
  • Choose grasses such as Karl Foester,or Panicum vigatum
  • Choose shade plants such as foam flower (tiarella), wild ginger (asarum canadense), Japanese painted fern (Athyrium Nipponicum Pictum)

These will provide interest and texture and need little care.

  • Shrubs offer more value for less  work: Spireas, Hydrangeas, prostrate blue spruce, ninebark. The birds will love you!
  • Hardy perennials such as Sedum Autumn Joy, Lambs Ears, Siberian Iris, Day Lilies, Anise Hyssop Blue Fortune (Agastache)
  • Seasonal perennial bulbs.
  • Use raised beds and containers. They are easier to reach, don’t get as many weeds and don’t need as much bending.

Lawns can require a lot of time to mow and trim. Think about shrinking grass areas and replace with ground covers such as creeping thyme. The bees love thyme and it can be run over occasionally with a mower Another idea is to replace grass with a stone feature. There may be a teenager in the area willing to mow and use a weed whacker for a reasonable price.

Go native and replace some of the lawn with a meadow garden of native grasses and flowers. Once established this only needs mowing once a year. However, this needs a lot of research and planning in order for it to be successful.

I grassed over my vegetable garden and just grow veggies in a raised bed and containers; realizing that the containers will need fertilizing.  I find this provides me with enough vegetables, needs little weeding and less bending.

I plan to remain in my bungalow for several years and hope to be able to manage and enjoy my lower maintenance garden.

Further information;

Slowgardenlife.com by Catherine A. Carte: 47 low maintenance garden ideas

www. gardendesign.com

Gardening for a Lifetime – how to garden wisely as you get older by Sydney Eddison

Have You Heard of a Dead Hedge?

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

A dead hedge, rather than being someone’s landscaping failure, is a convenient way to recycle wood and other garden trimmings generated in our gardens.  It is basically a controlled pile of material that accumulates from pruning woody plants such as shrubs or other garden detritus. Brush piles are valuable but the idea here is to create a structure as a design element in your garden.  It could serve as a privacy screen, a garden bed edging, windbreak or even a plant support.  The gardener determines the height, width and length within some suggested guidelines.  Your construction can be boxy, wavy, tall or short depending on your garden design needs and preferences.  There a number of resources that offer details on the construction and benefits of a dead hedge.

A dead hedge is comprised of 2 opposing rows of supports that are pounded into the ground.  The rows can be as narrow as you want up to approximately 1.5 metres apart.  The stakes in each row can also be close together or up to 1.5 metres apart.  Wooden stakes, tree branches or steel rebar pounded into the ground make up the supporting structure.  These 2 rows create a gap which you then start filling with your chosen material.  The material in a dead hedge will compress and decompose over time making it possible to keep adding to it.  Meanwhile your hedge is providing habit and food for mammals, birds and insects plus adding nutrients to the soil.  Master Gardener Thom Luloff’s blog on the importance of dead wood in the garden is an excellent read.

Apios Americana, American Groundnut winding into the dead hedge. Photo: Lois Scott

The idea of a dead hedge had huge appeal for me as every pruning job produced a pile of trimmings that needed to be cut up, bundled and put out as yard waste.  It takes fewer cuts for me to fit it on my hedge and no need to package it up and haul it to the curb.  I was also running out of places to ‘artistically’ place wood in my garden. 

Dead hedge blending into the garden. Photo: Lois Scott

My dead hedge screens the compost bins in a back corner of the garden, plants growing around it integrate it into the garden and the wildlife loves it!  For me, it is a very positive addition to my controlled chaos garden.

An Easier Way to Garden – Raised Vegetable Garden Beds

By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Last fall, we replaced our wooden deck and had those old untreated cedar boards to dispose of. I had my handy husband build a 4’ W X 9’ L X 3’ H box in my existing vegetable garden.  We placed it in an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun.

Doing this in the fall allowed me to fill the bottom with the woody stems, disease free plant material, and maple leaves from my yard as I did my fall clean up. We waited until the spring to add a yard of top soil and compost which topped it off.

There are many benefits to raised garden beds

Agility and mobility issues

  • As we age, getting up and down in the garden becomes more difficult.

Soil issues

  • Because we no longer till our garden beds, compaction is a real problem, but if we are not walking on these beds, soil compaction is not a big issue.
  • Soil in raised bed tends to warm up earlier in the spring.
  • You need only improve soil in growing beds and not on pathways or unused areas.

Easier to weed

  • Planting rows close together because you don’t need to walk between, makes less bare soil for weeds to grow in.
  • Weeding on your knees is not necessary.
  • Use straw, woodchips or mulch on your pathways.
  • There are many options and considerations.

Materials they are made from

  • Wood is a common material and there are many prebuilt varieties.
  • Use only untreated wood if you are building your own.
  • Galvanized metal premade are very popular.

Size

  • Ensure your box is only 4’ wide, so you can reach into the bed without climbing in.
  • You can make the bed as long as you like…what fits the site and your needs.
  • There should be no bottom in your raised bed – for drainage as well as for root growth. Most beds are at least 8” high, giving good space for good garden soil.
  • Height can be anywhere from 6” to 4’, depending on how far down you want to bend when gardening and how far up you plan to grow your vegetables
  • Check out shapes and sizes in this article from Niki Jabbour.

Placement

  • Once installed and filled with soil, these are permanent structures, so be sure they are in enough sun (at least 6 hours).
  • For safety, be sure your box is level.

What you grow in raised beds

  • Vegetables like carrots, radish, beets, lettuce, chard, kale, cabbage, broccoli, and other brassicas are all good candidates
  • Peas and beans do well, but remember you may need to stake or have trellis for these taller vegetables.
  • Squash, cucumbers and zucchini may take over your raised bed, so you will have to train the plants to climb or have them trail outside your container.
  • Potatoes or leeks that need soil topping, may not work unless they are in a separate bed or area of the raised bed, where you will dig a trench and top up as they grow.
  • Tomatoes are often indeterminate, so may grow too tall for a raised bed of 4”. You probably only need a bed that is a foot or two deep.

Over the summer, the material in the bottom of my newly constructed bed composted and compressed and the soil dropped about 8”. If you are setting up your raised bed in the fall, I would recommend adding the top soil/compost in the fall and then topping up again in the spring.

And you will probably have to top up with fresh soil and compost every year as the soil settles and the “filler” you put in the bottom decomposes and shrinks. Also remember that crop rotation will still be important.

I am very happy I don’t have to bend over to pick beans and weeding has become so much easier.

There are many ideas on social media for raised beds. Check out these sites.

Peterborough Master Gardeners website search on raised beds

Raised Bed Gardens

Best vegetables to grow in raised beds

Diversity: One Earth, Many Ways to Grow

By Amanda McIlmoyle, Master Gardener in Training

“Nature does nothing uselessly.”  Aristotle

Diversity is one of nature’s greatest strengths. Every organism, from the smallest insect to the largest tree, plays a unique role in the overall health of a garden. Nature is purposeful, deeply connected, and rewards us with incredible beauty when we provide our plants with the environment they need to thrive.

There are countless ways to think about diversity in the garden. From the types of plants we select, the wildlife that populates them, to the gardening practices that encourage a healthy microbiome in our soil, the topic of diversity is vast.  As gardeners, we spend a great deal of time planning our spaces to make them uniquely our own. However, when people think about diversity, their focus often shifts to visual diversity. While aesthetics are absolutely important, as our spaces are, after all, a reflection of our personality and preferences, the visual piece is just one part of a much larger puzzle. Let’s look beyond the visual appeal for a moment and explore a handful of other ways diversity truly matters.

Why Diversity Matters:

  • A diverse garden supports a healthy soil microbiome.  Diversity helps manage harmful pathogens, it improves nutrient cycling and feeds the beneficial organisms in the soil. 
  • Diversity also improves the soil structure.  A variety of plant root systems can help create channels within the soil that improve the flow of water and oxygen while providing different habitats and food sources for soil organisms.
  • Diversity in the garden also supports native pollinators, such as bees, butterflies and even beetles, wasps and hummingbirds along with all sorts of other beneficial wildlife.  A variety of plants provides these vital creatures, with a continuous supply of nutrients and areas for shelter.

How Do We Work Towards Diversity:  

  • Incorporate native plants into your garden, as these provide food and shelter for local wildlife while also supporting pollinators and wildlife.  Its important to become familiar with the native plants in your specific area as these plants thrive in local growing conditions along with local ecosystem. 
  • Choose a variety of plants with different shapes, sizes and bloom times to provide broader options of food sources and shelter for pollinators and wildlife throughout each growing season.   
  • Avoid harmful chemicals, as much as possible as they can alter the health of the soil and negatively impact the beneficial bugs in the garden. 
  • Leave spent foliage in the fall as dead stalks, mounds of leaves or dead flower heads can provide food and shelter to wildlife and pollinators during the colder months. 

Nature provides us with what we need to not only survive but to also thrive.  In a natural environment, there is a continuous exchange amongst producers (organisms that create their own food), consumers (all living things that rely on producers for food) and the decomposers (organisms that turn waste back into essential nutrients that feed producers). 

As gardeners, we act as environmental stewards; whether consciously or unconsciously, through the basic act of gardening.   For me, it doesn’t matter if your garden consists of a handful of houseplants , containers on a balcony,  an assortment of perennials or natives or expansive fields as part of the larger farming community.  Simply by gardening, we have an opportunity to contribute to the health and diversity of our planet. 

In short, diversity matters!

Resources

Bird-Friendly Gardens: Supporting Bird Habitat in Every Season

5 Reasons to Grow a Diverse Garden

Why is Plant Diversity Important for a Garden?

Pollinator Garden: A Toronto Master Gardeners Guide

The Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer

by Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

We have now just slipped into the first days of August, a time that most of us can stop and catch our breaths.  Spring cleanup, plant division and new plantings seem to be a distant memory (it wasn’t that much work, was it??). 

Upcoming fall tasks like seed saving, bulb planting and dahlia dividing are still far enough away not to seem real. Settling on a topic for a blog post just seems like too hard a task.  Garden musings might be more in tune with the time of year.

Of course, I am still busy in the garden as there are the omnipresent weeds that need to be dealt with and the harvesting that goes along with a cut flower patch. At least there is something to harvest.  What a change from the drought of last year.  Rainfall was so scarce at my place that most of my cut flowers performed poorly and went uncut.  Being on a dug well means managing water resources. 

As I now look around the garden, the daylilies which came on fast at the beginning of July and were quite bountiful are now fading away.  The purple coneflowers have been blooming for a couple of weeks and with rainfall look to go on for a bit longer. Even the lupines that were planted last fall are still showing some bloom.

The return of the lilies this year was a welcome sight.  Last year, not a single lily bud (Asiatic or Oriental-Trumpet [OT] hybrid) survived the ravages of the chipmunks who were most likely looking for moisture due to the lack of rainfall.  While I am used to the buds being swiped from the shorter Asiatics, my OT hybrids which are 5 to 6 feet tall, usually go untouched.  Not last year!

In my nursery bed at the back, I have a large stand of Liatris ligulistylis. It is starting to be filled with monarch butterflies stopping for some nectar. It truly is a monarch magnet.

field of echinacea plants

In the cutting garden, the Sweet William, Marigold and Zinnia are blooming like crazy and the Lisianthus is just starting to bloom.

Heading back towards the house, I pass by the form of Alium schubertii, planted last fall less for the bloom and more for its architecture. They look rather like a something better suited to outer space than an Ontario garden.  I like the effect and will be adding more.

As I reach the side porch, my gaze falls upon a bulb crate full of drying Bells of Ireland that I am attempting to save seed from and on a seed tray of biennial Sweet William that I have started for planting this fall. 

Better enjoy this break, the fall is coming!

The Unexpected Gift of a Garden Makeover

By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

In March 2020, as the COVID shutdown closed garden centres and much of everyday life, my husband and I began the first phase of making my mother’s garden easier to maintain. Her Hamilton home had long been hidden from the street by a dense Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) hedge and a tall wooden driveway gate.

The hedge was much hated by my brothers and I when we still lived there because we had to help trim it every 3 weeks during the growing season. And now my 80-year-old Mom was still climbing a ladder to trim it, worrying us all!

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: The Chinese Elm hedge and the wooden driveway gate (left) had been hiding an ornate Victorian wrought-iron fence for at least 60 years.

When she suggested restoring the antique Victorian fence buried within the hedge, I eagerly agreed. It was the perfect opportunity to remove both the hedge and the front lawn, creating a lower-maintenance landscape.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: Chinese Elm can be identified by its small, simple, alternate leaves that are elliptical to ovate, dark green, glossy, and finely serrated. Leaves are 1–2.5 inches long, with an asymmetrical base and a lateral vein ending in a tooth.

To prevent the vigorous Chinese Elm from resprouting, we dug several inches below each stump and made a second cut beneath the soil surface. We replaced the hedge and lawn with conifers for year-round structure, flowering shrubs for seasonal colour, and natural cedar mulch over landscape fabric to reduce watering and weeding.

Photos: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: Chinese elm stems were first cut above soil level (left), then soil was dug out around each stump (right) so that root stocks could be cut again several inches below the soil surface to prevent resprouting. The restored Victorian fence and newly smithed matching driveway gate had already been installed before work began.

Photos: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: Preparation of holes (left) and freshly planted columnar white cedars, Dwarf Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), European Smoke Bush (Cotinus coggygria), Shrubby Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) and Goldmound Spirea (Spirea japonica) (right). Landscape cloth covered by natural cedar mulch was used to minimize both watering in early years of establishment and weeding.

Results and an Unexpected Reward

The transformation eliminated the constant hedge trimming and lawn mowing. After the first year of regular watering, maintenance was limited to my annual pruning of the Potentilla and Spirea, coppicing the Smoke Bush, and topping up the cedar mulch each spring.

The biggest surprise, however, was how opening the garden to the street transformed my mother’s experience. The restored Victorian fence and new driveway gate allowed passersby to admire the perennial gardens inside, which I had also helped refresh in 2020. People regularly stopped to compliment her, and some even said they had changed their walking route so they could enjoy it every day. Those conversations and kind words brought my mother tremendous joy. Gardens are meant to be shared, and for nearly 50 years the solid wooden gate and Chinese Elm hedge had hidden this one from view.

Photos: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA: View into the garden from the new driveway gate.

In 2022, she opened her garden for the now-discontinued Hamilton Spectator Open Garden Week, and it was featured in the Hamilton Spectator by organizer and columnist Rob Howard.

One of the many people who admired the garden while walking his dog later nominated my mother for a City of Hamilton Trillium Award, which recognizes excellence in residential landscaping and community beautification. In 2024, she was delighted to receive a White Trillium Award, that recognizes the top-scoring gardens in each city ward, and was honoured with the award again in 2025.

Gardening has been a lifelong passion for my mother. Transforming the front garden into a beautiful, low-maintenance landscape not only eliminated the demanding chore of biweekly hedge and lawn care, but also created a space that brings joy to both the gardener and everyone who passes by.

REFERENCES

Biology Insights. 2026. How to Get Rid of Chinese Elm Trees for Good. https://biologyinsights.com/how-to-get-rid-of-chinese-elm-trees-for-good/

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