Hugelkultur

May 11, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener

Hugulkultur is a German word meaning ‘hill culture’. It is a form of permaculture, a traditional way of building a raised bed using rotting logs and plant debris. Large logs form the base layer, subsequent layers of organic materials decompose over time creating a rich soil, perfect for many plants, especially vegetables.

There are many advantages to ‘hugelkultur’: it’s easy, affordable, low maintenance, it serves as a self-composting system, and conserves water when constructed in a location where it can capture surface runoff.

The concept is fairly simple. Placed on the lower elevation of a site with its length parallel to water flow, the hugel will catch and absorb moisture. An ‘S’ or serpentine shape positioned to capture runoff is a common shape, but a broken circle or several parallel squiggly strands are other ideas. Design choice is dependent on space available, water run-off, sun and light exposure, and easy access for the gardener. Most hugels are built slightly into the soil though deeper troughs, even completely raised hugels work as well. The width and length of the hugel are also dependent on space available and needs; 3’ wide x 6’ long x 3 – 5’ deep provides good area.

If the hugel is on turf, it’s worth the effort to scrape away the turf and rake some soil away before getting the biggest logs in place. Branches and leaves can be used to fill in the gaps, next comes kitchen and garden waste, manure, grass clippings and finally topsoil and some mulch (or the scraped away soil). Gaps can be filled in by stomping on the mound and moving things around a bit to allow leaves and small matter to slip through. Watering after the addition of each layer kickstarts the decomposition process and also helps things settle. Once things have settled, it’s ready for planting.

A border along the edges of the hugel creates more stability and reduces the risk of the shape collapsing and the top of the mound washing away. Different materials such as brick, wood, or stone can be used to create an edge.

Not all logs and branches are suitable: hardwoods are best; black walnut should be avoided (many plants are sensitive to it), willow as well (branches will sprout), and even cedar is not the best (slow to decompose).

The hugel will likely benefit from additional watering in its first stages; once decomposition starts, less water is required. Over time, as wood and other organic materials decompose, the hugel will sink and additional compost would be beneficial. There is some discussion about whether the decomposing wood takes up nitrogen to the extent plant growth is inhibited so adding compost or growing legumes are considered effective mitigation techniques.

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND

References and further reading:

https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/sustainable-landscapes-creating-a-hugelkultur-for-gardening-with-stormwater-management-benefits.html#:~:text=%E2%80%9CH%C3%BCgelkultur%E2%80%9D%20(pronounced%20hyoo%2D,method%20for%20hundreds%20of%20years, Retrieved Feb. 25, 2005

https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/4214/Hugelkultur-Raised-Beds/, Retrieved Feb. 25, 2005

https://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/the-many-benefits-of-hugelkultur/, Retrieved Feb. 25, 2005

Garden Design, Health, New Gardens, Seniors, Tools

Gardening as We Age – Addressing Stretching and Mobility Issues

May 4, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners 1 Comment

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

WeIl I don’t know about you, but I am starting to feel my age. I used to be out in our gardens all day long, moving soil and rocks, planting garden beds, moving perennials, and weeding and watering to my heart’s content.

I did a Master Gardener blog about the importance of stretching before gardening (at any age) back in 2021 and since then I have been modifying my activities by stretching ahead of time and changing my tasks every 25 minutes (with a stretch break of 5 minutes). No more 8 hour marathons of weeding in the garden!

So I thought I would follow up with another blog for senior gardeners (or anyone with mobility issues) to look at gardening techniques that focus on minimizing bending and kneeling by using raised beds (2-4 ft high), taking advantage of vertical planters and structures, and employing container gardening.

We should also examine the environment —using lightweight, ergonomic tools with long handles, focusing on creating wide/smooth paths for walkers or wheelchairs, and advising people on low-maintenance but hardy plants.

Some Key Strategies for Mobility-Friendly Gardening

Raised Beds and Containers

Build or purchase raised beds, ideally 24–36 inches high, to eliminate the need to bend or kneel. These should be no more than 4 feet wide so that the centre can be reached from either side.

Use pots for container gardening but place them on casters so they can be moved around easily or create a raised area (like a table) that the containers can sit on. For wheelchair access make sure to design beds with clearance underneath for wheelchair access, typically 22 inches wide and 30 inches high.

Vertical Gardening

Use trellises, wall planters, and hanging baskets to allow plants to be available at eye level. Examples of climbing plants to consider are sweet peas or vegetables like cucumbers or beans.

Accessible Layouts

Ensure paths are wide, flat, and made of stable materials like smooth pavers or packed gravel for wheelchairs or walkers.

Ergonomic Tools

Ergonomic garden tools help people with mobility issues by reducing strain on joints, backs, and wrists through angled grips, extended handles, and lightweight designs. Use tools with long, padded, or curved handles to reduce strain on wrists and backs. There are so many on the market nowadays.

Watering Plants

Install drip irrigation systems or other watering options to reduce the need to carry heavy hoses.

Low-Maintenance Plants

Choose hardy, perennial plants such as that require minimal upkeep.

Sitting and Resting Areas

Incorporate sturdy benches or chairs in shaded areas in your gardens to allow people to take breaks. Provide water for drinking where possible.

Other Resources

Here are links to other Ontario-based resources you might want to explore for ideas and inspiration.

Accessible Gardening — Just Food – Ottawa

Barrier-Free Community Gardening in Waterloo Region (PDF)

Cultivating accessibility in your garden – Blooming Boulevards

A Guide for Making Community Gardens Accessible – Root in Nature

These Ergonomic Gardening Tools Will Get You Back Into the Garden! – Garden Therapy

Gardens are for Everyone – Oregon State University Extension

Accessible gardening and tool lists – University of California/Master Gardeners of Fresno

Accessible gardening toolkit – University of Saskatchewan

Getting Started with Accessible Gardening – National Center on Health, Physical Activity & Disability

Bugs, Myths, Perennials, Vegetable Gardening, Water

Plant Myth Busters — Garden Edition

April 27, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

Every spring, when the soil warms and seed packets start calling our names, gardeners everywhere prepare for another growing season filled with hope – and advice. Lots of advice. From relatives to viral social media tips, it can feel like everyone has a “tried and true” gardening trick to share. But not all advice is rooted in fact. Let’s dig into some common garden myths.

Treated wood is toxic for vegetable gardens

This advice used to be true. Using railway ties treated with creosote or pressure treated lumber that contained arsenic-based preservatives could introduce harmful chemicals into your soil. Fortunately, since 2003 pressure treated wood in Canada now typically uses a copper based preservative called Copper Azole. This compound is generally considered safe for building vegetable garden beds. Don’t be afraid to shop at your local lumber yard or big box store when designing your garden.

Watering in the afternoon burns plants

If this was true, we would all be in trouble when it rains! The truth is, there are benefits and drawbacks to watering at certain times of day. Watering in the early morning allows plants to use available water before the heat of the day hits. Watering in the evening can allow water to sit on leaves for extended periods of time, encouraging fungal growth. Watering in the afternoon can be more wasteful as some water will evaporate instead of reaching your plants’ roots. So when should you water? When your plants need it. Early morning is best, but if your plants are thirsty in the afternoon, water them.

Planting Lavender repels mosquitoes

It’s true that some plants (lavender, lemongrass, citronella) contain natural oils that may repel mosquitoes, but they are only effective when their leaves are crushed and the oils are applied directly to your skin. Even then, the benefits are short lived. Just planting these plants in your garden does not show any real repellent qualities. They do, however, smell lovely to us!

Companion planting solves garden problems

Okay, don’t freak out… I’m not saying that companion planting is bad. It’s just not a magical cure-all for garden issues. The three sisters method (https://parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/mb/fortgarry/culture/blog/soeurssisters) is a companion planting method that has been used by indigenous people for hundreds of years with real benefits. But planting basil next to your tomatoes to improve flavour? You might hear some anecdotal evidence, but the science doesn’t back it up. While some companion planting claims are exaggerated, some pairings can still provide indirect benefits, such as attracting pollinators or improving space use.

Gardening is part science, part tradition, and a whole lot of
learning as you grow. While not every myth will harm your garden,
understanding the “why” behind common garden advice can help
you make more informed choices and grow with confidence. As
you head into the season, stay curious, keep asking questions,
and don’t be afraid to dig a little deeper. Your garden will thank
you for it.

Garden Cleanup, Spring, winter

Why Spring Weather Is Often Harder on Plants Than Winter

April 20, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

It’s easy to assume that winter is the most dangerous season for plants. After all, temperatures are usually well below freezing, snow piles up, and everything appears lifeless. However, for many plants in our gardens, the real stress arrives in spring—not winter. The reason comes down to instability and fluxuation.

In winter, plants enter a state of dormancy. Their metabolism slows dramatically, cell structures change to tolerate freezing, and growth essentially pauses. In this “hibernation” state, many plants can withstand surprisingly low temperatures because they are physiologically “prepared” for them.

Spring, however, is unpredictable. Warm days can signal to plants that it’s time to wake up. Sap begins to flow, buds swell, and cells rehydrate. This wake-up process makes tissues far more vulnerable. When temperatures suddenly drop again—as they often do in April and May—those newly active tissues can be damaged or killed. This is why a late frost can devastate fruit tree blossoms or burn emerging perennials, even if those same plants survived much colder temperatures in January.

Another major challenge is the freeze-thaw cycle. During early spring, temperatures frequently swing above and below freezing within a 24-hour period. Water in the soil expands as it freezes and contracts as it thaws, which can physically push plants upward in a process known as frost heaving. Shallow-rooted perennials such as Coral Bells or Heuchera are especially vulnerable, as their roots can be exposed to air, leading to desiccation and stress.

Moisture imbalance also plays a key role. While snow cover in winter can insulate plants and provide a steady water source, spring conditions are often drying. Cold winds, bright sun, and thawed soil that roots haven’t fully reconnected with can lead to what’s known as winter desiccation. Evergreens are particularly at risk—they continue to lose water through their needles or leaves, but may not yet be able to replace it from the soil.

Temperature fluctuations can even cause physical damage to woody plants. On sunny late-winter or early-spring days, bark can warm up significantly. When temperatures plunge again at night, the rapid contraction can cause cracks, often referred to as frost cracks. These wounds can open the door to pests and disease later in the season.

All of this means that spring is less about extreme cold and more about rapid change. Plants are caught between seasons—no longer fully dormant, but not yet fully active or resilient. For gardeners, this explains why patience is so important. Delaying cleanup, avoiding early pruning of vulnerable plants, and waiting to assess winter damage until growth resumes are all strategies that work with the realities of spring, rather than against them.

In many ways, surviving winter is an achievement—but surviving spring is the real test.

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Garden Cleanup, Spring

Spring Awakening, Silent Loss: What Ontario’s Bill 5 Means for Your Garden

April 13, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener

As the snow melts and the first shoots of green push through the soil, spring invites us back into our gardens with optimism. It’s a season of planning and of imagining birds returning, pollinators buzzing, and life rebuilding after winter. But while we prepare our gardens for renewal, something far less hopeful is unfolding across Ontario: the quiet weakening of protections for the very wildlife we love.

At the center of this shift is Bill 5, a sweeping piece of legislation that is fundamentally changing how species at risk are protected in our province. Under Bill 5, the Endangered Species Act, once considered a global gold standard for conservation, is being removed. Bill 5 narrows the definition of “habitat,” focusing only on spaces where species physically are, rather than the full landscape the species needs to survive. It also removes certain prohibitions, such as protections against “harassing” species, making it easier for disturbance to occur.

For wildlife, especially birds, this matters enormously. Habitat loss is the primary driver of species decline. When protections weaken, landscapes become more fragmented, nesting sites disappear, and food webs begin to unravel. The spring chorus we look forward to each year depends on intact ecosystems, and those ecosystems are increasingly under pressure.

So where do gardeners fit into this? Right at the center of the solution.

If policy is stepping back provincially, stewardship must step forward. Your garden is no longer just a personal space, it is a piece of habitat in a much larger, increasingly fragmented system. And the choices you make this spring can directly support species that are losing ground elsewhere.

One of the most powerful actions is deceptively simple: leave some areas (especially the hard to get to ones!) wild. Resist the urge to clean everything up. Leaf litter, fallen branches, and standing stems provide critical overwintering habitat for insects. These insects are the foundation of the food web, feeding birds during breeding season when they need protein the most. Tidying too early can erase an entire generation of life before it has a chance to emerge.

Planting native species is another essential step. Native plants support significantly more insects than non-native ornamentals, which in turn support birds, amphibians, and other wildlife. Even a small patch of native plants can function as a high-value habitat.

Reducing harm is equally important. Avoid pesticides, which ripple through ecosystems. Make windows bird-safe to reduce collisions. Provide water sources and dense shrubs for shelter. These actions may seem small, but collectively they create real, measurable impact.

Bill 5 is a reminder that conservation cannot rely on legislation alone. As gardeners, we are not powerless observers. We are active participants in shaping the landscapes around us.

This spring, as you plan your garden, think about habitat. Think refuge. Think resilience.

Because in a time when protections are being pulled back, the spaces we cultivate may matter more than ever.

Reference

The Narwhal. (2025). Ontario’s endangered species law is barely being enforced — and wildlife is paying the price. Retrieved from https://thenarwhal.ca/ontario-species-conservation-act-enforced/

[Link to Bill 5]

Advice, Disease, Houseplants, Water

Rescuing Bargain Plants and Getting Them to Thrive

April 6, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

You just couldn’t resist the sign saying “Only $2” or you are confident that you can rescue that pathetic looking plant, after all you have a thriving garden so it shouldn’t be that difficult.

How many times have you bought a bargain plant and regretted it when it dies on you? Big box stores in particular often have a small section of rather sad looking plants looking for a home. End of season clearances are often a great place to pick up bargains.

However, these sad orphans may need a lot of tender loving care (TLC) to get them to flourish. These are some important things to think about before carting off your ‘bargain’ plant that you couldn’t resist.

Take time to inspect the plant and don’t be tempted if it has any of the following problems. Some of the problems may be easy to rectify but others may be too far gone.

Is it root bound? Ease the plant out of the pot – is it totally root bound? Are some of the roots brown and squishy?

Any sign of pests or disease? Check the leaves, stems and roots for pests.

Have you got the right spot in your garden for the plant? I have often been tempted only to get home and wonder where on earth I am going to put it. (more later on keeping the plant isolated)
Quarantine your bargain plants for a few weeks to see how they progress before planting in your garden. This way you can spot any further problems and not infect your other plants. This is a good idea before bringing in any new plants as it is all too easy to bring in goutweed or other invasives.
Does it need repotting? The plant may be too cramped and have used up all the nutrients in the soil. It is a good idea to wash the roots just to be sure that there are no other unwelcome passengers. Put it in a slightly larger pot, 1 or 2 sizes bigger and use fresh potting soil. Remove any dead roots and trim surplus.
Check the plant’s water requirements. Over watering can be just as bad as under watering,
Prune and trim back any dead or infected leaves and branches. Cut back into healthy, green wood and to a healthy outward facing bud. Do it immediately regardless of the correct time for pruning. It may look awful at first but it will encourage new growth.
Fertilizer – probably not a good idea for a sick or poorly treated plant Once it begins to recover, a light application would be helpful.

You can get some really good deals on ‘bargain’ plants if you check them carefully before handing over your money. Give them lots of TLC and they will reward you. We all love a bargain but it is worth inspecting the plants thoroughly before you decide to rescue them.

Good hunting!

Information, Seeds, Spring, Websites

Direct Seeding in Early Spring

March 30, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

At this time of year some gardeners have started seeds indoors which offers the ability to control temperature, light, moisture and to provide a longer growing season. Many of the plants started indoors will not be planted out until all danger of frost has passed. Tomatoes and peppers are two examples. Some may be plants like Brussels Sprouts that can tolerate cool conditions but benefit from an indoor start due to the length of time it takes them to produce a mature crop. Then there are seeds that can be directly seeded into cool soils, tolerate frost after sprouting and provide an early harvest. Kale, arugula and peas are a few of my favourites. Check out Master Gardeners Sharleen Pratt’s article about cool season vegetables.

So how early in the spring can one direct seed? The usual direction is to seed when the soil is workable. What conditions need to be met to have workable soil? The squeeze test can help with this. Dig a handful of soil from 7-10cm deep, squeeze it into a ball and press your finger against it. If the ball crumbles easily it is workable. If it remains a dense, sticky ball it is too wet. When water fills the air pockets in soil, seeds may rot or suffocate. Checking the soil’s workability is important but it is also very important to reduce working or tilling your soil.

Check out this article about no-till vegetable gardening.

Raised beds, grow bags and deck boxes may help move up the date for direct seeding as they typically provide for better drainage and warmer soil.

If you have other questions about planting your seeds, the back of the seed packet is an invaluable resource. It will provide information about what conditions the seed needs to germinate, grow and provide you with a timely harvest.

Advice, Books, Light, Technology, Tools

Growing Under Lights

March 23, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Starting seeds indoors by setting them in a bright window can get you started growing vegetables and flowers early. If you have windows that face south and get full sun all day, you will have better luck, however the winter months can often be dull and cloudy, making your young seedlings struggle and stretch for the light. If you are a serious indoor grower, you will want to invest in some type of light system.

Many gardeners still use shop light fixtures with warm white and cool white fluorescent 40 watt bulbs.This type of light system still works and may be a good first step. LED lights are very popular and available as light bulbs or strip lighting as well as tabletop lighting systems.

Fluorescent	LED
Less expensive to purchase Use more hydro May be phased out of production Need to be placed close to seedlings and raised as they grow to encourage more compact, bushier plants	Available in white (full spectrum) or red/blue combination which gives off a pinkish purple glow Don’t give off much heat Longer life Higher cost to purchase Less cost to operate Do not place really close to plants as bleaching may occur

Natural sunlight has all the colours of the spectrum, so having lighting with a full spectrum will be the best. Plants need light for photosynthesis and they like the red and blue which are at each end of the light spectrum. Blue light helps with plant growth and keeps your plants compact, while red light is important for leafy growth and flowering.

Most seedlings should get about 16 hours of light each day. Invest in a timer that will automatically come on around 6 am and shut off around 10 pm.

There are many types of lighting systems available with lots of price points.

Check out Nikki Jabbour’s article where she talks about her successes and a great variety of lighting options.

Another great article on growing under lights comes from The Garden Professors.

You can invest in a light meter or get the app on your phone to determine how much light is being given off and how far that light can reach. This is also good for testing what your houseplants are getting for natural light from your windows. Be aware that many of the plant lights available now in very stylish designs are not for seed starting but for growing happy, healthy houseplants.

Leslie Halleck’s book Growing under Lights (published in 2018) has all the information you need about lighting for seed growing and plants. In her book, you can learn about kelvins, lumens, watts, footcandles, measuring light and photoperiods of specific plants you want to start indoors under lights.

I found her explanation of photoperiods interesting. This is basically how much light or darkness is needed for a specific plant to flower. For example, for poinsettia to bloom, they need a short day photoperiod, with 14 hours of darkness, while a perennial coneflower requires a long day and so doesn’t flower until days are longer in the summer. Peppers and tomatoes are both warm season vegetables from the nightshade family that many start indoors. They are day-neutral, which means they grow well with 14-18 hours of light. Check here for a book review.

With a renewed interest in food security and growing our own food, starting vegetables under lights is a good step forward.

Advice, Health, Websites

Plant Therapy: The Dirt on Why Gardening Makes us Feel Good

March 16, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners 1 Comment

By Amanda McIlhone, Master Gardener in Training

“To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow”. Audrey Hepburn

Gardening has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. When I retired from social work in 2019, I made the decision to spend my time focusing on things that truly made me happy. While my list was lengthy, gardening without doubt hovered very close to the top.

Currently, I am a Master Gardener in Training, and this is my very first post for this blog. As I was deciding on a subject to write about, it occurred to me that while all of us enjoy different aspects of gardening, we share a similar outcome: we garden because it makes us feel good. So let’s spend a few moments discussing what research says about why gardening—even in small amounts—is good for us.

Given that this topic is vast and my word count is limited, I am going to break our discussion into two parts. This article will focus on a few of the mental health benefits gardening provides. In my next article, coming this June, I will focus on the physical benefits of gardening. Let’s get started!

Gardening Benefits for Our Mental Health

Being around nature lowers cortisol, our body’s primary stress hormone.
Soil contains beneficial microbes that help stimulate “feel-good” chemicals in the brain. When our bodies come into contact with these microbes—through our skin or lungs—chemicals such as serotonin, dopamine, and endorphins are triggered. All of these help regulate mood.
Exposure to natural light boosts vitamin D, which also plays a role in mood regulation and overall health.
Successfully growing plants—even small wins—creates feelings of satisfaction and accomplishment.
Problem-solving in the garden (soil issues, pests, timing) strengthens confidence and resilience while helping keep our brains stay active and engaged.
Gardening encourages creativity without pressure or judgment. Creativity itself also helps trigger the “feel-good” chemicals mentioned above.
Repetitive gardening tasks, such as weeding, pruning, or even logging plant progress, promote mindfulness by helping us stay present rather than focused on worries or fears.
Gardening promotes community in many forms—and community decreases isolation while improving connection.

The practice of gardening compels us to slow down and focus on the task at hand. It requires thoughtful planning, encourages creativity, and rewards us with beauty and bounty for our efforts. In a world that loudly demands we hurry, gardening asks us to be patient, reminding us that nature operates on its own timing and schedule

Slowing our pace in a busy world is crucial to our well-being. For me, one of the best parts of working toward becoming a Master Gardener is knowing that I am part of something bigger than simply growing plants. While the role of a Master Gardener typically focuses on public education and environmental stewardship, it also provides us with an opportunity to help improve people’s lives. For me, this is the perfect way to do something for myself while simultaneously helping others. Does it get any better than that?

Happy Gardening!

Links:

https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/blog/think-act-be/201906/10-mental-health-benefits-of-gardening

https://vancouversun.com/homes/gardening/dig-in-how-gardening-can-enhance-mood-brain-function

https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/wellbeing-articles/gardening-for-mental-health-9761

https://resources.telushealth.com/en-ca/6-health-benefits-of-gardening

Annuals, Garden Design, Seeds

You Don’t Need a Cut Flower Garden….

March 9, 2026 peterboroughmastergardeners Leave a comment

Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

Having fresh cut flowers in your home is something that many gardeners enjoy. They do not however, want the extra work of a dedicated cut flower garden. There is a growing trend towards incorporating cut flower varieties (annuals for the most part) as a block of colour in one’s ornamental garden. Even small numbers of plants can provide an abundance of blooms to enjoy. Most of us have “holes” in our gardens. These blank spots develop for any number of reasons; perhaps some of our other plantings have not reached their mature size; the space is present early in the season and will later be filled in by slower growing species; plants that did not overwinter. Whatever the reason, cut flower varieties can fill the gap providing blooms, texture and colour. The list of potential varieties is endless (consult a good seed resource to see). This blog will attempt to cover a few of the most favorite.

Orlya (Orlya grandiflora)

One of the prettiest, most delicate fillers for late spring and early summer, these dainty bloomers are smothered in a mass of lacy white umbrels. As the flowers fade, the plant forms interesting star shaped seed heads. This plant is a workhorse, the more it is cut, the more it blooms.

I use this plant as an early spring space filler. It is attractive both in the garden as well as the vase. If you permit some go to seed, it self sows and volunteer plants will appear early the following spring that can be grown in place or moved to where you need them.

Amaranthus (A. cruentus and A. caudatus)

Tall and dramatic, coming in many colours and spike types, this plant is remarkably easy to grow. Not surprising as it is a member of the pigweed family!!! There are varieties that grow long colourful tassels (trailing) and varieties that have more upright forms (spike). The tassels/spikes have a velvety texture. Colours can be light brown, green, burgundy and there are even a few mixes. These are warm season annuals that can be started inside 5 weeks before planting out around the same time your dahlias go into the ground.

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Cosmos is one of the most rewarding and easiest cut and come flowers to grow. It has daisy-like blossoms in single or double forms. It is a relatively large plant (36-48″ high) and can be direct sown or started indoors 4 weeks before planting out. This is another warm seasonal annual so take care to plant out well after all threat of frost is past. Cosmos should be pinched (removal of growing tip above third set of true leaves) in order to create a bushier, more floriferous plant.

Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa atropurpurea)

A delightful flower with a horrible name. This is another annual that is equally attractive left in the garden or cut for the vase. A cut and come again plant with an abundance of bloom and a lengthy bloom season. The plant is about 2 ft-3 ft. in height. These flowers last for a very long time in the vase when harvested at the correct stage. Many colours are available. These are cool season annuals that can be started indoors 6 weeks before planting out.

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Everyone’s summertime favorite! Zinnias are a warm seasonal annual that come in many colours and forms. A trend today is towards pastel, ombre effects or green varieties. The big and bright ones are still very popular. The flower itself can be single or double and the plant is quite heat tolerant (a plus in our changing climate). Zinnias are another cut and come again flower with a long vase life. Or if you prefer, an oasis of colour in your late summer garden to which the bees and butterflies come for nectar. Zinnia can be direct sown into the garden or started indoors 4 weeks before planting out.

Spend a little time perusing the seed company sites and try it out.

Resources

https://www.johnnyseeds.com/flowers/

https://www.damseeds.com/pages/flowers

The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners