“Gardening adds years to your life and life to your years.” – Unknown
Gardeners and non-gardeners alike can all agree that tending a garden, while incredibly satisfying and rewarding, can also be physically demanding. When we enter our green spaces, we often focus on the plants before us, prioritizing tasks and brainstorming solutions to gardening challenges.
However, what we may not always consider are the significant benefits gardening offers to our physical health.
The physical act of gardening typically involves tasks such as digging, lifting, walking, kneeling, and bending. These activities require us to engage our brains, muscles, hearts, bones, and lungs.
Some may classify gardening simply as a physical activity — which is fair — but I would argue that it can also serve as a form of exercise with far-reaching and long-lasting health benefits.
Gardening Benefits for our Physical Health
Protects against cognitive decline. Gardening requires planning, multitasking, and problem-solving, all of which challenge and stimulate the brain. The physicality involved in gardening also increases blood flow and oxygen to the brain and can significantly decrease the risk of Alzheimers and other forms of dementia.
Engages all major muscle groups. Gardening works the arms, legs, abdominals, shoulders, glutes, neck, and back. Maintaining physical strength as we age is incredibly important for preserving mobility, coordination, and independence. Strong muscles also help prevent life-altering falls and fractures by improving balance and overall stability.
Excellent for heart health. Gardening can increase your heart rate and improve circulation. It can help lower blood pressure and reduce the risk of strokes, diabetes while supporting cardiovascular health overall.
Supports bone health. Gardening can help increase bone mineral density, which may prevent or combat the effects of osteoporosis. Spending time outdoors also provides a healthy dose of Vitamin D, which is essential for strong bones.
Improves lung health. Breathing fresh air in an oxygen-rich environment can help improve lung capacity and efficiency, allowing us to work, play, and live more actively. Lungs also play a role in detoxification as they help us expel toxins and carbon dioxide, a form of metabolic waste.
Gardening can help us live longer, healthier, and more fulfilling lives. However, it is important to always listen to your body when engaging in any type of physical activity.
It is always advisable to consult with your doctor before beginning any new physical activity, especially if it causes pain or discomfort. Avoiding overexertion, staying hydrated, and stretching are essential practices for maximizing the health benefits of gardening.
Spending time in our gardens engages both the mind and body, encourages social connection, and provides exposure to Vitamin D — the “sunshine vitamin” — all while offering an incredible sense of satisfaction and accomplishment.
It is no wonder that gardening remains a recommended activity for seniors, not only because of its far-reaching benefits, but also because it can be modified to suit everyone’s individual needs and preferences.
Here in Ontario we have a long enough growing season to accommodate both the cold hardy annuals such as sweet peas and the tender annuals like zinnia and celosia. So why do so many gardeners wait until the third week of May to plant their cold hardy annuals? Fear of frost. How many times have you heard the mantra “Don’t plant until Victoria Day weekend”. While that is good advice for many plants, it actually works against this class of plants that like to put down roots in cold soil.
There are actually 2 ways to deal this class of plants:
Direct sow in the spring. As soon as winter has left and the ground can be worked in April, seed varieties such as Nigella, Ammi, Bupleurum and Calendula. Seed thickly and thin the seedlings. This method takes advantage of the abundant moisture that is in the ground, allows plants to develop good root systems prior to facing the heat of summer. Some types such as Larkspur actually do better this way for many folks as Larkspur is quite heat intolerant and germinates poorly in the average Canadian home. I actually germinate mine indoors in my sunroom which is kept at 50 F in the winter.
Transplant seedlings in spring. This is my preferred method for the cutting garden. This method is more precise than sowing seed into the ground and allows for sequencing of seeding to produce the best sized transplant. The first seed that I start is Lisianthus (January 1) followed by snapdragons and sweet peas in February. My seedlings are grown slowly at 50 F which produces less top growth and more root.
Tender annuals waiting to be hardened off before planting out
On average, I plant these varieties out around the third week of April. The key to planting successfully is proper “hardening off”. This is a process of gradually acclimating your seedling to the harsher outdoor conditions (sunlight, wind and temperature fluctuations) over 7 days. This helps to prevent transplant shock, sunburned leaves and weak stems. A rough guideline for hardening plants is as follows:
Day 1-3: Place plants outside in out of direct sunlight and wind for 1-2 hours
Day 4-7: Gradually increase time spent outside by a couple hours each day and move into sunlight for part of that time
By day 7, if temperatures are staying above 7 C, plants can stay out all night.
Avoid the midday sun early on. Water carefully. Your plants will dry out faster when outside. Watch the wind initially as it can snap stems.
Snapdragon showing extensive leaf damage with new growth coming from buds at base of stem
Once seedlings are in the ground, the work is still not over. Watch the weather forecast carefully. Some young seedlings may need protection if temperatures drop below freezing. If temperatures are going to drop, I cover seedlings with frost cloth. Frost cloth is a lightweight, breathable garden fabric designed to protect plants by trapping warmth radiating from the soil to create a microclimate. This cloth can also be used in fall to protect tender plants like dahlias from early frosts. I also use this cloth as a shade cloth to protect delicate flowering plants from the harsh July sun.
This year has been a real challenge. We have had a very cold and windy spring. It was hard to even find consistent conditions in which to harden the plants off. I held off from my usual third week of April planting and ended up hardening plants for about 11 days. Most of the seedlings were planted in the first week of May. A couple days after planting, temperatures were forecasted to be less than 0 C. Of more concern was the wind. My cutting garden receives the full force of the wind as it blows across my farm fields. On went the frost cloth. But the wind must have found its’ way under cloth as the next day some of the snapdragons showed damage to leaves. However, the seedlings were planted deeply with some stem in the ground and in the next week or so, new growth started to appear from the base of the plant. I still can’t access the full extent of damage but am willing to wait to see how many plants recover.
In the meantime, there were tulips to harvest, sunflower seeds to sow, weeding to be done. Soon it will be time to start hardening off the tender annuals like the zinnias!
This May, gardeners will once again flock to community plant sales in search of bargain perennials and unusual finds. These sales support worthwhile causes and help plants find new homes—but they can also unintentionally introduce invasive species into your garden. Before planting that exciting new addition, consider one simple precaution: root washing.
Why Root Wash New Plants?
Many gardeners have unknowingly introduced invasive plants through seeds hidden in the soil of donated or purchased plants. An even greater concern today is the spread of invasive jumping worms that I wrote about in a previous blog. Their tiny (1 – 3 mm), soil-coloured cocoons—about the size of a sesame seed—can easily hitchhike in the soil around plant roots.
Since 2016, jumping worms have been confirmed at 63 locations across southern and eastern Ontario (EDDMaps 2026). Although the adult worms die during winter, their cocoons survive and hatch over the next one or more years (Dobson et al. 2022). Dr. Michael McTavish, who has confirmed many infestations in Ontario, notes that by the time gardeners notice the tell-tale “coffee ground” soil texture or spot an actual worm, the infestation has usually been present for years (McTavish, 2025 pers. comm.).
In gardens, jumping worms quickly consume organic matter in the upper soil layer resulting in soil drying, erosion, loss of nutrients, and ultimately decreased plant growth. Root washing greatly reduces the risk of introducing jumping worms, invasive seeds, and other unwanted organisms in your garden.
Root Washing at the Lakefield Horticultural Society Potting Day
The Lakefield Horticultural Society holds a Potting Day several weeks before its annual plant sale so divisions can become established before sale day. This year, we added root washing to the process.
Our revised assembly line included:
Plant division
Soil removal
Root washing
Potting into clean containers with sterile soil
Labelling
Moving plants outdoors onto tarmac
Fortunately, we worked in a cool, shaded area, since root washing is not recommended in strong sun or hot weather.
How to Root Wash Plants
Step 1: Remove Excess Soil
Gently tap plant roots against the inside of a garbage bin lined with a heavy-duty plastic bag to dislodge as much soil as possible.
Step 2: Rinse the Roots
Swish the roots in a pail of cold water, then transfer them to a second pail of clean water and repeat.
An old toothbrush proved surprisingly useful for gently removing stubborn soil particles from roots and iris rhizomes.
Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SARoot divisions in the red bin are gently tapped against the inside of a garbage bin to remove as much soil as possible. Then the division is successively swished in two pails of cold water, removing more soil particles.
Step 3: Final Rinse
Use a gentle spray of water over a sink with a drain catcher—or over another pail—to remove the remaining soil particles. The plant can then be potted in sterile soil or planted directly into the garden.
Hostas washed particularly well, while larger rhubarb divisions and some columbine cultivars struggled after treatment.
Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SAFinal rinsing of roots to remove remaining soil particles.
Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA A freshly root-washed hosta division ready for potting (that is sterile potting soil on the tarp and in the bin below the table).
What We Learned
A few practical lessons emerged from the day:
Root washing did not appreciably slow the potting process. Nine volunteers root washed more than 200 plants in 2.5 hours. It was not nearly as time consuming as we expected.
Root washing is easier for some plants than others.
Hostas tolerated the process very well; rhubarb and columbine cultivars did not.
Used toothbrushes are excellent tools for removing stubborn soil.
One volunteer root washed plants at home before arriving, leaving the soil behind in her own garden—an approach we may encourage in future years.
Safe Disposal of Soil and Wash Water
The removed soil was collected in heavy-duty plastic bags and disposed of through municipal waste collection. Surprisingly little soil accumulated after processing approximately 250 plants.
As rinse water became muddy, fresh pails replaced dirty ones. The used water was allowed to sit for several days so soil particles could settle to the bottom. Clear water was then poured into the municipal sewer system for treatment, while the remaining sediment could either be solarized (Master Gardeners of Ontario 2022) or disposed of through municipal waste collection.
Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Pails with remaining sediment. We used about a dozen pails, switching ones with dirty water and others with clean water regularly.
Caution is advised when root washing in rural areas as I couldn’t find any information on whether jumping worm cocoons can survive in untreated waste systems.
Root Washing Benefits More Than Perennials
For trees and shrubs, root washing has benefits beyond decreasing the risk of invasive organisms. Removing potting soil encourages roots to grow outward into the surrounding native soil rather than remaining confined to the original potting mix. The result is better long-term establishment and survival (Chalker-Scott 2020).
Root washing also allows gardeners to identify and correct root problems such as girdling or spiralling, before planting. Woody roots can be pruned so they spread outward like spokes on a wheel, while fibrous roots can simply be straightened by hand (Hopton-Villalobos 2021).
Even nursery-grown perennials benefit. Potting mixes containing perlite and vermiculite drain quickly and are ideal for greenhouse production, but roots sometimes fail to expand into heavier garden soils after transplanting. By removing the potting mix and “mudding in” the roots directly into garden soil, plants often establish more successfully—and gardeners avoid introducing invasive pests at the same time (Wagar 2025).
A Small Step that Protects Your Garden
Root washing may add a little extra time to planting, but it is one of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your garden and local ecosystems from invasive species. As there is currently no proven treatment for jumping worm infestations, prevention is the gardener’s best defence.
Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Some of the potted plants two weeks after root washing. Clockwise from top left: Black-eyed Susan cultivar, Golden Tiarella Hosta, Armeria, and Columbine cultivar (these did not root wash well as can be seen in the pot on the left and several others not shown).
McTavish, M. Pers. Comm. 2025. Formerly Postdoctoral Fellow with the Daniels Faculty of Forestry, now Conservation Scientist with rare Charitable Research Reserve.
Hugulkultur is a German word meaning ‘hill culture’. It is a form of permaculture, a traditional way of building a raised bed using rotting logs and plant debris. Large logs form the base layer, subsequent layers of organic materials decompose over time creating a rich soil, perfect for many plants, especially vegetables.
There are many advantages to ‘hugelkultur’: it’s easy, affordable, low maintenance, it serves as a self-composting system, and conserves water when constructed in a location where it can capture surface runoff.
The concept is fairly simple. Placed on the lower elevation of a site with its length parallel to water flow, the hugel will catch and absorb moisture. An ‘S’ or serpentine shape positioned to capture runoff is a common shape, but a broken circle or several parallel squiggly strands are other ideas. Design choice is dependent on space available, water run-off, sun and light exposure, and easy access for the gardener. Most hugels are built slightly into the soil though deeper troughs, even completely raised hugels work as well. The width and length of the hugel are also dependent on space available and needs; 3’ wide x 6’ long x 3 – 5’ deep provides good area.
If the hugel is on turf, it’s worth the effort to scrape away the turf and rake some soil away before getting the biggest logs in place. Branches and leaves can be used to fill in the gaps, next comes kitchen and garden waste, manure, grass clippings and finally topsoil and some mulch (or the scraped away soil). Gaps can be filled in by stomping on the mound and moving things around a bit to allow leaves and small matter to slip through. Watering after the addition of each layer kickstarts the decomposition process and also helps things settle. Once things have settled, it’s ready for planting.
A border along the edges of the hugel creates more stability and reduces the risk of the shape collapsing and the top of the mound washing away. Different materials such as brick, wood, or stone can be used to create an edge.
Not all logs and branches are suitable: hardwoods are best; black walnut should be avoided (many plants are sensitive to it), willow as well (branches will sprout), and even cedar is not the best (slow to decompose).
The hugel will likely benefit from additional watering in its first stages; once decomposition starts, less water is required. Over time, as wood and other organic materials decompose, the hugel will sink and additional compost would be beneficial. There is some discussion about whether the decomposing wood takes up nitrogen to the extent plant growth is inhibited so adding compost or growing legumes are considered effective mitigation techniques.
WeIl I don’t know about you, but I am starting to feel my age. I used to be out in our gardens all day long, moving soil and rocks, planting garden beds, moving perennials, and weeding and watering to my heart’s content.
I did a Master Gardener blog about the importance of stretching before gardening (at any age) back in 2021 and since then I have been modifying my activities by stretching ahead of time and changing my tasks every 25 minutes (with a stretch break of 5 minutes). No more 8 hour marathons of weeding in the garden!
So I thought I would follow up with another blog for senior gardeners (or anyone with mobility issues) to look at gardening techniques that focus on minimizing bending and kneeling by using raised beds (2-4 ft high), taking advantage of vertical planters and structures, and employing container gardening.
We should also examine the environment —using lightweight, ergonomic tools with long handles, focusing on creating wide/smooth paths for walkers or wheelchairs, and advising people on low-maintenance but hardy plants.
Some Key Strategies for Mobility-Friendly Gardening
Raised Beds and Containers
Build or purchase raised beds, ideally 24–36 inches high, to eliminate the need to bend or kneel. These should be no more than 4 feet wide so that the centre can be reached from either side.
Use pots for container gardening but place them on casters so they can be moved around easily or create a raised area (like a table) that the containers can sit on. For wheelchair access make sure to design beds with clearance underneath for wheelchair access, typically 22 inches wide and 30 inches high.
Vertical Gardening
Use trellises, wall planters, and hanging baskets to allow plants to be available at eye level. Examples of climbing plants to consider are sweet peas or vegetables like cucumbers or beans.
Accessible Layouts
Ensure paths are wide, flat, and made of stable materials like smooth pavers or packed gravel for wheelchairs or walkers.
Ergonomic Tools
Ergonomic garden tools help people with mobility issues by reducing strain on joints, backs, and wrists through angled grips, extended handles, and lightweight designs. Use tools with long, padded, or curved handles to reduce strain on wrists and backs. There are so many on the market nowadays.
Watering Plants
Install drip irrigation systems or other watering options to reduce the need to carry heavy hoses.
Low-Maintenance Plants
Choose hardy, perennial plants such as that require minimal upkeep.
Sitting and Resting Areas
Incorporate sturdy benches or chairs in shaded areas in your gardens to allow people to take breaks. Provide water for drinking where possible.
Other Resources
Here are links to other Ontario-based resources you might want to explore for ideas and inspiration.
Every spring, when the soil warms and seed packets start calling our names, gardeners everywhere prepare for another growing season filled with hope – and advice. Lots of advice. From relatives to viral social media tips, it can feel like everyone has a “tried and true” gardening trick to share. But not all advice is rooted in fact. Let’s dig into some common garden myths.
Treated wood is toxic for vegetable gardens
This advice used to be true. Using railway ties treated with creosote or pressure treated lumber that contained arsenic-based preservatives could introduce harmful chemicals into your soil. Fortunately, since 2003 pressure treated wood in Canada now typically uses a copper based preservative called Copper Azole. This compound is generally considered safe for building vegetable garden beds. Don’t be afraid to shop at your local lumber yard or big box store when designing your garden.
If this was true, we would all be in trouble when it rains! The truth is, there are benefits and drawbacks to watering at certain times of day. Watering in the early morning allows plants to use available water before the heat of the day hits. Watering in the evening can allow water to sit on leaves for extended periods of time, encouraging fungal growth. Watering in the afternoon can be more wasteful as some water will evaporate instead of reaching your plants’ roots. So when should you water? When your plants need it. Early morning is best, but if your plants are thirsty in the afternoon, water them.
It’s true that some plants (lavender, lemongrass, citronella) contain natural oils that may repel mosquitoes, but they are only effective when their leaves are crushed and the oils are applied directly to your skin. Even then, the benefits are short lived. Just planting these plants in your garden does not show any real repellent qualities. They do, however, smell lovely to us!
Okay, don’t freak out… I’m not saying that companion planting is bad. It’s just not a magical cure-all for garden issues. The three sisters method (https://parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/mb/fortgarry/culture/blog/soeurssisters) is a companion planting method that has been used by indigenous people for hundreds of years with real benefits. But planting basil next to your tomatoes to improve flavour? You might hear some anecdotal evidence, but the science doesn’t back it up. While some companion planting claims are exaggerated, some pairings can still provide indirect benefits, such as attracting pollinators or improving space use.
Gardening is part science, part tradition, and a whole lot of learning as you grow. While not every myth will harm your garden, understanding the “why” behind common garden advice can help you make more informed choices and grow with confidence. As you head into the season, stay curious, keep asking questions, and don’t be afraid to dig a little deeper. Your garden will thank you for it.
It’s easy to assume that winter is the most dangerous season for plants. After all, temperatures are usually well below freezing, snow piles up, and everything appears lifeless. However, for many plants in our gardens, the real stress arrives in spring—not winter. The reason comes down to instability and fluxuation.
In winter, plants enter a state of dormancy. Their metabolism slows dramatically, cell structures change to tolerate freezing, and growth essentially pauses. In this “hibernation” state, many plants can withstand surprisingly low temperatures because they are physiologically “prepared” for them.
Spring, however, is unpredictable. Warm days can signal to plants that it’s time to wake up. Sap begins to flow, buds swell, and cells rehydrate. This wake-up process makes tissues far more vulnerable. When temperatures suddenly drop again—as they often do in April and May—those newly active tissues can be damaged or killed. This is why a late frost can devastate fruit tree blossoms or burn emerging perennials, even if those same plants survived much colder temperatures in January.
Another major challenge is the freeze-thaw cycle. During early spring, temperatures frequently swing above and below freezing within a 24-hour period. Water in the soil expands as it freezes and contracts as it thaws, which can physically push plants upward in a process known as frost heaving. Shallow-rooted perennials such as Coral Bells or Heuchera are especially vulnerable, as their roots can be exposed to air, leading to desiccation and stress.
Moisture imbalance also plays a key role. While snow cover in winter can insulate plants and provide a steady water source, spring conditions are often drying. Cold winds, bright sun, and thawed soil that roots haven’t fully reconnected with can lead to what’s known as winter desiccation. Evergreens are particularly at risk—they continue to lose water through their needles or leaves, but may not yet be able to replace it from the soil.
Temperature fluctuations can even cause physical damage to woody plants. On sunny late-winter or early-spring days, bark can warm up significantly. When temperatures plunge again at night, the rapid contraction can cause cracks, often referred to as frost cracks. These wounds can open the door to pests and disease later in the season.
All of this means that spring is less about extreme cold and more about rapid change. Plants are caught between seasons—no longer fully dormant, but not yet fully active or resilient. For gardeners, this explains why patience is so important. Delaying cleanup, avoiding early pruning of vulnerable plants, and waiting to assess winter damage until growth resumes are all strategies that work with the realities of spring, rather than against them.
In many ways, surviving winter is an achievement—but surviving spring is the real test.
As the snow melts and the first shoots of green push through the soil, spring invites us back into our gardens with optimism. It’s a season of planning and of imagining birds returning, pollinators buzzing, and life rebuilding after winter. But while we prepare our gardens for renewal, something far less hopeful is unfolding across Ontario: the quiet weakening of protections for the very wildlife we love.
At the center of this shift is Bill 5, a sweeping piece of legislation that is fundamentally changing how species at risk are protected in our province. Under Bill 5, the Endangered Species Act, once considered a global gold standard for conservation, is being removed. Bill 5 narrows the definition of “habitat,” focusing only on spaces where species physically are, rather than the full landscape the species needs to survive. It also removes certain prohibitions, such as protections against “harassing” species, making it easier for disturbance to occur.
For wildlife, especially birds, this matters enormously. Habitat loss is the primary driver of species decline. When protections weaken, landscapes become more fragmented, nesting sites disappear, and food webs begin to unravel. The spring chorus we look forward to each year depends on intact ecosystems, and those ecosystems are increasingly under pressure.
So where do gardeners fit into this? Right at the center of the solution.
If policy is stepping back provincially, stewardship must step forward. Your garden is no longer just a personal space, it is a piece of habitat in a much larger, increasingly fragmented system. And the choices you make this spring can directly support species that are losing ground elsewhere.
One of the most powerful actions is deceptively simple: leave some areas (especially the hard to get to ones!) wild. Resist the urge to clean everything up. Leaf litter, fallen branches, and standing stems provide critical overwintering habitat for insects. These insects are the foundation of the food web, feeding birds during breeding season when they need protein the most. Tidying too early can erase an entire generation of life before it has a chance to emerge.
Planting native species is another essential step. Native plants support significantly more insects than non-native ornamentals, which in turn support birds, amphibians, and other wildlife. Even a small patch of native plants can function as a high-value habitat.
Reducing harm is equally important. Avoid pesticides, which ripple through ecosystems. Make windows bird-safe to reduce collisions. Provide water sources and dense shrubs for shelter. These actions may seem small, but collectively they create real, measurable impact.
Bill 5 is a reminder that conservation cannot rely on legislation alone. As gardeners, we are not powerless observers. We are active participants in shaping the landscapes around us.
This spring, as you plan your garden, think about habitat. Think refuge. Think resilience.
Because in a time when protections are being pulled back, the spaces we cultivate may matter more than ever.
You just couldn’t resist the sign saying “Only $2” or you are confident that you can rescue that pathetic looking plant, after all you have a thriving garden so it shouldn’t be that difficult.
How many times have you bought a bargain plant and regretted it when it dies on you? Big box stores in particular often have a small section of rather sad looking plants looking for a home. End of season clearances are often a great place to pick up bargains.
However, these sad orphans may need a lot of tender loving care (TLC) to get them to flourish. These are some important things to think about before carting off your ‘bargain’ plant that you couldn’t resist.
Take time to inspect the plant and don’t be tempted if it has any of the following problems. Some of the problems may be easy to rectify but others may be too far gone.
Is it root bound? Ease the plant out of the pot – is it totally root bound? Are some of the roots brown and squishy?
Any sign of pests or disease? Check the leaves, stems and roots for pests.
Have you got the right spot in your garden for the plant? I have often been tempted only to get home and wonder where on earth I am going to put it. (more later on keeping the plant isolated)
Quarantine your bargain plants for a few weeks to see how they progress before planting in your garden. This way you can spot any further problems and not infect your other plants. This is a good idea before bringing in any new plants as it is all too easy to bring in goutweed or other invasives.
Does it need repotting? The plant may be too cramped and have used up all the nutrients in the soil. It is a good idea to wash the roots just to be sure that there are no other unwelcome passengers. Put it in a slightly larger pot, 1 or 2 sizes bigger and use fresh potting soil. Remove any dead roots and trim surplus.
Check the plant’s water requirements. Over watering can be just as bad as under watering,
Prune and trim back any dead or infected leaves and branches. Cut back into healthy, green wood and to a healthy outward facing bud. Do it immediately regardless of the correct time for pruning. It may look awful at first but it will encourage new growth.
Fertilizer – probably not a good idea for a sick or poorly treated plant Once it begins to recover, a light application would be helpful.
You can get some really good deals on ‘bargain’ plants if you check them carefully before handing over your money. Give them lots of TLC and they will reward you. We all love a bargain but it is worth inspecting the plants thoroughly before you decide to rescue them.
At this time of year some gardeners have started seeds indoors which offers the ability to control temperature, light, moisture and to provide a longer growing season. Many of the plants started indoors will not be planted out until all danger of frost has passed. Tomatoes and peppers are two examples. Some may be plants like Brussels Sprouts that can tolerate cool conditions but benefit from an indoor start due to the length of time it takes them to produce a mature crop. Then there are seeds that can be directly seeded into cool soils, tolerate frost after sprouting and provide an early harvest. Kale, arugula and peas are a few of my favourites. Check out Master Gardeners Sharleen Pratt’s article about cool season vegetables.
So how early in the spring can one direct seed? The usual direction is to seed when the soil is workable. What conditions need to be met to have workable soil? The squeeze test can help with this. Dig a handful of soil from 7-10cm deep, squeeze it into a ball and press your finger against it. If the ball crumbles easily it is workable. If it remains a dense, sticky ball it is too wet. When water fills the air pockets in soil, seeds may rot or suffocate. Checking the soil’s workability is important but it is also very important to reduce working or tilling your soil.
Raised beds, grow bags and deck boxes may help move up the date for direct seeding as they typically provide for better drainage and warmer soil.
If you have other questions about planting your seeds, the back of the seed packet is an invaluable resource. It will provide information about what conditions the seed needs to germinate, grow and provide you with a timely harvest.
The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners 