Smothering Periwinkle: A Practical Way to Reclaim Your Garden for Native Plants

By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

Photo: Invasive periwinkle spreading into my friend’s forest.

For years, gardening magazines praised periwinkles (Vinca spp.)¹ for their rapid growth, low maintenance, and adaptability to a wide range of growing conditions. Today, they are recognized as invasive plants that have spread into natural forests throughout much of southern and central Ontario.

Periwinkle has allelopathic properties that can inhibit the growth of other plants and alter soil chemistry, including increasing soil calcium and sulphur levels (see references cited in Mitchell and Simkovic 2025). These adaptations help periwinkle outcompete and displace native understorey plants, such as trilliums, and impede the regeneration of native trees (ibid.).

Have you been putting off removing that patch of periwinkle in your garden? Hand-pulling can be daunting because even tiny pieces of stem or root can regenerate. Nodes along both above- and below-ground runners can also take root and produce new plants.

There is another option: smothering periwinkle with heavy-duty black landscape fabric.

A three-year experiment

Over the past three years, I have helped a friend control a large patch of lesser periwinkle (V. minor) that was spreading into the native woodland on her rural property. Reluctant to use herbicides, she agreed to try heavy-duty black landscape fabric.

By excluding sunlight, the fabric prevents photosynthesis and gradually depletes the carbohydrates stored in the plants’ roots, reducing their ability to regrow.

Area 1: May 2023 to September 2025

We began by brush-cutting the periwinkle as close to the soil surface as possible. We raked the cut vines into clear plastic bags for solarization before disposal, then covered an area approximately 12 × 12 feet with landscape fabric. We carefully worked around a red elderberry and a red trillium, leaving both uncovered.

In September 2025, we lifted the fabric to find that the periwinkle had been completely killed. We immediately planted the area densely with winter-sown native species, including bluestem goldenrod, zigzag goldenrod, wild columbine, and wood poppy, adding leaf mulch to cover remaining bare soil.

Photo: The border between smothered periwinkle (right) and untreated periwinkle (left) in Area 1 after 2 years of being covered by landscape fabric.

Area 2: September 2025 to August 2026

We reused the fabric and landscape staples from Area 1 to cover the adjacent patch, again brush-cutting the periwinkle first. When we lifted the fabric in late August 2026, we found that the periwinkle had again been completely killed—this time after just one year.

We planted Area 2 densely with native plants  and reused the fabric and staples on the next section, Area 3.

Results

If the cost of landscape fabric and native plants is not a limiting factor, you can cover a larger area at once. The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners used this approach in the Sundial Garden at Peterborough’s Riverview Park and Zoo in June and August 2026 as shown in the following photo.


Tips for Success

Prepare the area.
Brush-cut the periwinkle as close to the soil surface as possible. Rake up the cut vines, bag them in clear plastic for solarization, and dispose of them appropriately.

Overlap generously.
Periwinkle can readily grow through gaps between adjoining pieces of fabric. Overlap seams by 4–6 inches and extend the fabric beyond the edges of the infestation. Curved edges around hardscaping require extra care.

Secure the fabric firmly.
Place landscape staples every 2–3 feet along the edges and overlapping seams to maintain close contact with the ground. Using gaskets can make removing and reusing the staples much easier.

Pay attention to slopes.
Sloping ground can make installation more challenging. Additional rocks, along with landscape staples, may help keep the fabric in contact with the soil.

Protect desirable plants.
Take care when working around native plants. Poorly fitted fabric can allow periwinkle to creep back into the treated area, requiring repairs. At the Zoo, periwinkle that had been covered for three months was already white, indicating that it had been deprived of light and could no longer photosynthesize. Landscape fabric will be kept on for several more months though.

Be patient and plan ahead.
Leave the fabric in place for at least one year, and potentially up to two years, depending on conditions and regrowth. Have native plants ready to establish a dense cover as soon as the fabric is removed. In the photograph, native plants are laid out in Area 2 in the foreground, while zigzag and bluestem goldenrods bloom in Area 1 behind them. Farther down the slope, another patch awaits treatment.

Respect wildlife.
At the zoo, we left the three entrances to a fox den uncovered. Foxes had successfully raised kits there the previous spring, and we wanted to leave the entrances accessible in case the adults returned that winter. We will manage the periwinkle emerging around the den by hand-pulling.

Watch for surprises!
After we removed the fabric from Area 1, a native round-leaved hepatica (Anemone americana) emerged from dormant seed in the soil. What a welcome discovery!

Tips for success

What else can you control this way?

Smothering with landscape fabric may also help control other creeping, non-native groundcovers, including goutweed, pachysandra, creeping Jenny, and English ivy. Both spring and fall can be suitable times to install heavy-duty fabric, provided it is secured properly and left in place long enough to suppress regrowth.

Once the fabric is removed, replant densely with native species suited to the site. This helps occupy the space, reduce opportunities for invasive plants to return, and restore habitat for native wildlife.

Could this approach help you reclaim a patch of your garden for native plants?

Common Fungi and Lichen

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener

The Correspondent is a popular novel this year. Written by Virginia Evans, it inspired me to write more letters and connect with family and friends using pen and paper, envelopes and stamps. At Canada Post, I discovered a wonderful collection of stamps featuring flora and fauna and used the first set to send off letters to young grandchildren using the stamps to tell a story.

The first booklet presents five species of fungi and lichen found in Canada and explains that interest in mushrooms is part of our growing awareness and appreciation of Indigenous culture and traditions. 

One of the stamps profiles the Star-tipped Reindeer Lichen (Cladonia stellaris). It is not a fungi but a lichen. Found in Canada’s north and familiar to many of us, it grows in large continuous mats on the ground, on trees and rocks in the boreal and arctic regions. It’s said to resemble cauliflower and is often used by model train builders to represent trees and forests. Reindeer and caribou use it as a food source in the winter. A lichen is neither a moss nor a plant, it is not a single organism but a combination of a fungus and algae or cyanobacteria. Each of the partners benefits from the association: fungi do not photosynthesize on their own and rely on the algae as a food source and the algae or bacteria rely on the fungi for structure and  foundation. The relationship is stable and is symbiotic. Perhaps it is because of this symbiotic relationship that the Star-tipped Reindeer Lichen was voted by Canadians to be a national lichen species.

Fomes fomentarius has several common names:  hoof fungus because it resembles a hoof and tinder fungus because of its role in starting slow-burning fires. It is not edible but the inner flesh can be used to make amadou, the material used as tinder. Amadou can also be stretched and pounded to make a felt-like product for clothing. Sometimes it is referred to as Iceman’s Fungus because several pieces of the fungus were found with the 5,000 year old Iceman mummy in the Alps. Hoof fungus is a familiar sight in eastern North America, most often on hardwoods, especially birch.

The oyster mushroom ((Pleurotus ostreatus) is commonly found in northern forests, usually on dead hardwood trees and can be found at all times of the year. The common name comes from the appearance of the mushroom, not the taste. Like the hoof fungus, the oyster mushroom is described as a shelf fungi because of its growth habit on the side of trees.

Chicken of the Woods is the common name for Laetiporus sulphureus. It’s an edible mushroom found in living or decaying trees, usually hardwood. It’s described as a bracket or shelf fungus (Sulphur shelf is another common name of this mushroom) because it grows on the vertical side of a tree. It can also be found at the base of a tree or on stumps or rotting logs. These fungi are yellow or bright orange and can be found as individuals or clusters. Small, single mushrooms measure only a few inches but a large cluster can be several feet and weigh up to 50 pounds. Chicken of the Woods is a polypore, it has pores rather than gills on the underside and appears in summer and fall with younger, smaller mushrooms being more tender. This type of mushroom is considered a favourite by most people. As with all mushrooms, care should be taken to have exact identification before eating.

And finally, Rhizophagus irregularis, is a microbe – a mycorrhizal fungus that is used as a beneficial soil amendment, its importance to gardeners and particularly the agricultural community is significant. It is found in almost all soils and has undergone many name and classification changes recently.

References:

Science Writers & Communicators of Canada (SWCC)https://sciencewriters.ca/archivedblog/10530549

iNaturalist: https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/125632-Cladonia-stellaris

Canada Post, booklet of fungi stamps: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=1233746638785510&set=a.235173518642832

https://ohiodnr.gov/discover-and-learn/education-training/wild-ohio-harvest-cookbook/foraging-recipes/sauteed-chicken-of-the-woods

Flower Fasciation and Mast Years – Two Garden Oddities Worth Knowing About

By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

2026 has been a very strange year for gardeners. A cool, wet spring, a good, hot summer, significant rain in early August, but no rain through most of September.

In our Lakefield garden we saw some interesting examples of fasciation — abnormal growth on plants — during the summer, and lately we have been inundated with nuts on both our aged walnut trees — more than 6 wheelbarrows full.

We even had walnut production on our largest tree (which is about 150 years old and hasn’t produced walnuts for more than 5 years) and they are still falling!

Just part of the walnut haul in our gardens

Flower fasciation and mast years are two really cool quirks of plant biology. So I’ll tell you a little about both and you can impress your friends and family!

They’re two different processes — one affects how a plant grows (fasciation) while the other focuses on how a plant reproduces (mast).

Flower Fasciation – When Plants and Flowers Do Weird Things

From the Latin root meaning “band” or “stripe”, with fasciation (no, not fascination – that’s something totally different!) the growing tip broadens, producing flattened, ribbon-like stems or elongated, crested flowerheads, also sometimes called “cresting” (Fascinating Fasciation). As they explain, there are several ways that this shows on a plant:

  • Stems may be bent or coiled in strange directions
  • A witches’-broom effect may occur
  • Flowers and leaves may appear at odd angles to the stems
  • Leaves growing from distorted stems are usually smaller and more numerous than normal; and
  • Flower heads may be elongated, deformed, or misshapen with more flowers than normal

Here’s a few examples.

Fasciation on a purple coneflower by Wikiway, CC BY-SA 4.0, unmodified
Fasciation on a sunflower
Fasciation of Veronicastrum virginicum (Culver’s Root) in our garden this summer
Screen capture of fasciation examples from the University of Wisconsin link

The triggers to abnormal growth from fasciation are often never identified — it can stem from a random genetic mutation, a hormonal imbalance, or a response to frost, insect feeding, or physical injury — but some cases do have an infectious cause that can spread to other plants through wounds or contaminated water (Fasciation – UC IPM).

Just FYI – in general, the condition is harmless, non-contagious, and does not kill the plant.

Mast Years – When Trees Do Weird Things

You might be wondering why trees in the Kawarthas this year are laden with so many seeds, cones, nuts and fruits, and why you are collecting so many nuts. Well, it’s a mast year, that’s why.

A mast year is when many plants of the same species — not just one tree, but a population across a landscape — produce an unusually large seed crop together, within an intermittent boom-and-bust pattern (Mast Seeding in Perennial Plants: Why, How, Where?).

Various guides identify oaks, walnut, black cherry, basswood, cedar and ironwood as common mast producing trees.

Squirrels and chipmunks love mast years
Have you seen more acorns on oaks this year? (and more squirrels on oaks?)

For gardeners, a bumper seed crop can mean extra autumn cleanup and, potentially, more seedlings next spring. Agriculture Canada flagged more-than-double August precipitation this year, and local trees produced one of the heavier seed and cone crops in the province — sugar maple, white spruce, white cedar, red oak and others all mast-seeded across the Kawarthas this autumn. The drought of last year might have also precipitated this event as well.

Local naturalist Drew Monkman did an excellent article on this year’s mast season, so please read it. Examples of this mast year are all over our garden – look at these piles of walnuts in our garden!

Walnut piles in our gardens
Acorns at the base of a red oak during a mast year
Photograph by Molly Ahearn, courtesy of Rick Ostfeld; originally published in Bradbury, PLoS Biology (2003), CC BY 2.5, unmodified

Do you have any great examples of fasciation or mast in your garden this year?

Lessons from the Garden

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

It’s early October in my zone 5b garden, and the season is winding down. Clean up has replaced harvesting, seed packets have long since been packed away and I’m feeling melancholy. I’m mentally preparing myself for a long, cold Canadian winter, and winters seem to feel longer every year that passes. When I start to feel this fall sadness set in, I take a moment to reflect on the lessons my garden has taught me.

Patience

Good things come to those who wait. Whether it’s waiting for spring, waiting for seedlings to emerge, or waiting for your harvest to ripen, the anticipation makes the result that much sweeter. My growing season has a beginning and an end, and that rhythm gives me time to remember what has come to pass and look forward to a new beginning.

“Four Reasons to Cultivate Patience”

Take Risks

Over more than 10 years of gardening, I have made plenty of mistakes. It’s natural to fear failing at a new task, but failure is just an opportunity for learning and growth. Take a chance in your garden next year – grow a plant from seed that you normally buy as an established plant, try a new variety of vegetable, dive in! If it doesn’t work out, make note of what you might change for the following season and try again.

“Why Taking Risks Helps You Grow – and How to Do It”

Resilience

We all face adversity in our lives, and resilience is our ability to move beyond it. I’ve had many instances when my garden was not working out the way I had planned. Drought, extreme weather and insect damage have decimated my crops in the past. Instead of throwing in the towel, I learned to pivot, adapt and come up with a new plan. My garden has taught me that sometimes resilience means accepting things that don’t go as expected and finding a new way forward.

“The Magic of Resilience”

Mindfulness

Our lives are busy. Work, kids, partners, hobbies… And technology connecting it all. When I’m in the garden I can disconnect, slow down and be mindful. The warmth of the sun on my skin, the buzzing of bees, the feel of earth in my hands all make me feel grounded. Calmer.

Taking time to feel centered and reconnect with nature can benefit our mental and physical health, all while pulling a few pesky weeds.

“The Science of Mindfulness”

As another growing season comes to an end, I’m reminded that the garden gives us more than flowers and food. It teaches us to be patient, take chances, adapt, and slow down enough to appreciate the moment. Winter may be long, but I’ll carry these lessons with me until I’m in my garden again.

Soil Your Undies…?

By Sandra Caswell, Master Gardener In Training

Bet that title got your attention!

In her last blog, MJ talked about “Garden Maintenance Tasks for September and October.” I’m going to pick up on that theme with another important fall task: building your soil—and, as you’ll soon see, that’s where underwear comes in.

Microbial activity is key to a healthy garden. Microbes include worms, insects, spiders, and all sorts of other creepy crawlies that call your soil home. Think of them as your garden’s best friends.

One of their most important jobs is aerating the soil. This helps water penetrate deeply and gives plant roots room to spread out and down in search of nutrients. Strong roots below mean strong, healthy plants above.

Fall is a great time to support your soil’s microbial community. After removing spent annuals, spread 2–3 inches of organic matter—such as compost, manure, or worm castings—over the soil. The goal is to disturb microbial life as little as possible. Instead of tilling the compost in, simply leave it on top and let the microbes munch away all winter, gradually working it into the soil for you.

That’s what I do with two of my raised vegetable beds. In the other two, I plant a cover crop, typically winter rye. It acts as a “green manure,” helping improve soil nutrients, including nitrogen and potassium. I scatter the winter rye seed, lightly rake it in, and water it for a few days until it sprouts.

Next spring, I’ll turn the rye into the beds and let it decompose for about a month before planting. Voilà—organically recharged soil! The microbes will be happy, and so will next year’s vegetables.

So, What’s This Got to Do With Burying Your Undies?

Every April, the Soil Conservation Council of Canada encourages farmers, gardeners, and backyard scientists to try a surprisingly entertaining test of soil health: bury your underwear.

The idea is simple. Bury a pair of 100% cotton underwear in your garden and dig it up a few months later. The faster the cotton decomposes, the more microbial activity is happening in your soil.

It may sound like a joke—and, admittedly, your neighbours may have questions—but the science behind it is legitimate.

Scientists at Switzerland’s Agroscope and the University of Zurich took the idea to a whole new level, leading a thousand citizen scientists in burying underwear in gardens, fields, and meadows. After two months, the participants dug up the undies and dried them for analysis.

And what did they find?  Microbial activity tended to be higher in private gardens, where gardeners regularly added organic matter and paid attention to moisture and irrigation. The underwear buried in those gardens showed the greatest degree of decomposition.  Grasslands showed the least microbial activity, while arable farmland fell somewhere in between.

In other words, the more thoroughly your garden destroys a pair of cotton underpants, the more lively things may be happening beneath the surface.

So, if you thought your garden tasks were finished for the season and it’s time to hang up your rake, think again.  Even if you have no intention of participating in the underwear challenge next spring, set your garden up for success by simply giving your soil a good helping of organic matter this fall. You’ll be feeding those hard-working microbes and setting your garden up for healthier soil next spring.  Your plants will thank you.  Your microbes will thank you.  And your underwear? Well, let’s just say it may have served an important scientific purpose.

Please see links below for more information about the Soil Your Undies challenge or the Swiss study.  Also listen to the last 15 minutes of the September 18th podcast of CBC’s Quirks and Quarks for a discussion with the lead scientist at the University of Zurich.

https://www.soilcc.ca/soil-your-undies

https://www.agroscope.admin.ch/en/proof-by-underpants

Garden Maintenance Tasks for September and October

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

September and October are busy months in the garden. The days are getting shorter, but there is still plenty to do before winter arrives.

Keep watering. Trees, shrubs and newly planted perennials need water until the ground freezes. This is especially important as our September has been quite dry this year so far. Give plants a thorough soaking rather than frequent, shallow watering.

Stay on top of weeds. Pull weeds before they set seed. Fall is also a good time to remove invasive plants and unwanted seedlings before they become established. In my garden, I’ve already cut back the daylily foliage and once the frost arrives, the hosta leaves will be next to go. It’s amazing to see the amount of unwanted seedlings and weeds that grow underneath both of those plants.

Deal with fallen leaves. Don’t feel that every leaf must be removed. Leaves can be left in garden beds where they provide winter cover and eventually add organic matter to the soil. On lawns, however, thick layers of leaves should be removed or chopped with the mower. Leaves can also be added to the compost pile.

Clean up the vegetable garden. Remove spent annual vegetables and any diseased plant material. Healthy plant debris can go into the compost pile, while diseased material should be removed from the garden.

Plant spring bulbs. September and October are good months to plant tulips, daffodils, crocuses and other spring-flowering bulbs. Plant them before the ground freezes — daffodils earlier, tulips later.

Don’t rush to cut everything down. Many perennials provide food and shelter for birds and beneficial insects through the winter. Leave attractive seed heads and sturdy stems standing where possible.

Finally, clean and put away garden tools, empty hoses, and store tender plants indoors before frost.

A little work now will make spring gardening easier—and leave something for us to look forward to during the winter!

How to get the Ultimate GLOW UP with a Firefly night show!

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener

There are few things that feel more like an Ontario summer than fireflies. On a warm June evening, just as the last light disappears behind the trees, the lawn suddenly begins to sparkle. One flash appears beside the garden. Then another. Soon tiny lanterns are drifting over the grass, blinking between shrubs and hovering along the edge of the woods. For a few weeks each summer, our gardens host one of nature’s most extraordinary light shows.

Yet there is much more happening here than summer magic and believe it or not, next summer’s “glow party” starts right now, with the steps we take in the autumn. 

A Love Letter Written in Light

To get right to the point, fireflies are not actually flies at all. They are beetles belonging to the family Lampyridae, and Ontario has a surprisingly rich diversity, with 23 species of firefly all with remarkably different life histories (Luk et al., 2011). 

Fireflies produce light through bioluminescence, a biochemical reaction occurring in specialized light organs. But those lights we see are not random. Each species has their own unique pattern of flashes, pauses, timing, and flight behaviour. In many familiar flashing species, males fly through the darkness broadcasting their luminous courtship signals while females, often closer to the ground, evaluate them and respond.

Essentially, that peaceful-looking summer meadow is filled with beetles sending romantic text messages.

Here is where gardeners become particularly important.

The adult fireflies dancing above our lawns may live for only a relatively short period, but much of the firefly life cycle happens on or beneath the ground.

Fireflies undergo complete metamorphosis: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Depending on the species and climate, larvae can spend a year or more developing in moist soil, leaf litter, woodland edges and other protected habitats before eventually pupating and emerging as adults. 

This means that for most of their lives, the fireflies in your garden aren’t flying at all. They’re crawling in it. 

And those larvae are surprisingly formidable predators. Many feed on soft-bodied invertebrates, including slugs, snails, worms and other small organisms. Ontario’s fireflies are therefore not simply beautiful additions to the garden; during their larval stage, many are active participants in the soil and litter food web (Luk et al., 2011). Think about that the next time you see a slug munching its way through your hostas!

So Where Have All the Fireflies Gone?

Many people have a similar memory: There used to be many more fireflies.

Quantifying firefly declines is complicated because long-term population datasets are limited, and trends differ among species and regions. We should therefore be cautious about assuming that every firefly species is declining everywhere.  But there are genuine reasons for concern.

A global assessment by firefly experts identified habitat loss, artificial light at night and pesticide use among the most important threats to firefly populations (Lewis et al., 2020). North American conservation assessments have likewise found that some species are considerably more vulnerable than others, particularly those with specialized habitat requirements (Fallon et al., 2021).

And unfortunately, many things we traditionally consider tasks of a “well-maintained” garden are almost exactly the opposite of what a firefly needs:

  • We rake away the leaves.
  • We remove fallen branches.
  • We cut the grass short.
  • We clear vegetation from damp corners.
  • And then we illuminate the property all night, preventing the way they communicate

From a firefly’s perspective, we’ve removed the bedroom, emptied the refrigerator and left the stadium lights on!

Use this Autumn to GLOW UP for next summer!

To get the glow up, we need the adult beetles.  

To get the beetles, we need healthy larvae.  

So, leave some leaf litter beneath shrubs and trees, particularly in places where it will remain moist. Maintain some scattered patches of taller vegetation. Allow a corner beside a hedge, woodland edge or garden bed to remain slightly wild. Keep woody debris where appropriate and preserve moist, shaded areas rather than trying to make every square metre of the property look manicured.

And because larvae live and hunt near the soil surface, reducing unnecessary soil disturbance and avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides can help preserve both fireflies and the invertebrate communities on which they depend. Habitat loss and pesticide exposure are among the major concerns identified for fireflies globally (Lewis et al., 2020).

And Please—Turn off (or down) the lights. Let nighttime be dark. Light pollution is now recognized as an important conservation concern for fireflies precisely because reproduction depends so heavily on visual communication (Lewis et al., 2020).  To prepare, use this autumn  to switch essential security lighting to motion sensors or timers. Direct necessary lights downward rather than outward into gardens and natural areas. 

And next summer, when darkness finally settles over an Ontario summer evening, perhaps the garden will turn its own lights on.

References

Fallon, C. E., Hoyle, S. M., Lewis, S. M., Owens, A. C. S., Lee-Mäder, E., Black, S. H., & Jepsen, S. (2021). Evaluating firefly extinction risk: Initial red list assessments for North America. PLOS ONE, 16(11), e0259379.

Lewis, S. M., & Cratsley, C. K. (2008). Flash signal evolution, mate choice, and predation in fireflies. Annual Review of Entomology, 53, 293–321.

Lewis, S. M., Wong, C. H., Owens, A. C. S., Fallon, C., Jepsen, S., Thancharoen, A., Wu, C., De Cock, R., Novák, M., López-Palafox, T., Khoo, V., & Reed, J. M. (2020). A global perspective on firefly extinction threats. BioScience, 70(2), 157–167.

Luk, S. P. L., Marshall, S. A., & Branham, M. A. (2011). The fireflies (Coleoptera: Lampyridae) of Ontario. Canadian Journal of Arthropod Identification, 16, 1–105.

Downsizing Your Garden to make it easier to Manage

By Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

As I get older and want to age in place, my current garden has become too large to manage. I also know that if I have to move, an extensive landscape may scare off potential buyers. So, it is time to take a long hard look at my garden and the plants in it. I have put together some suggestions and ideas to make it easier to enjoy your garden.

First of all, plan ahead to reduce the amount of time and physical effort needed to maintain the garden and make it easier to manage. And enjoy.

  • Prioritize a few plants that hold special memories that you really love and recognize that you want to keep them.
  • Ask your self the following questions about your perennials.
    • Is it waterwise?
    • Does it need staking or trellising?
    • Is it drought or heat resistant?
    • Does it get a lot of insect damage?
    • Does it require dead heading?
    • After blooming is it boring?

You may want to take out and give away high maintenance plants that meet the criteria above and think about replacing with these ideas.

  • Emphasize foliage rather than flowers
  • Choose grasses such as Karl Foester,or Panicum vigatum
  • Choose shade plants such as foam flower (tiarella), wild ginger (asarum canadense), Japanese painted fern (Athyrium Nipponicum Pictum)

These will provide interest and texture and need little care.

  • Shrubs offer more value for less  work: Spireas, Hydrangeas, prostrate blue spruce, ninebark. The birds will love you!
  • Hardy perennials such as Sedum Autumn Joy, Lambs Ears, Siberian Iris, Day Lilies, Anise Hyssop Blue Fortune (Agastache)
  • Seasonal perennial bulbs.
  • Use raised beds and containers. They are easier to reach, don’t get as many weeds and don’t need as much bending.

Lawns can require a lot of time to mow and trim. Think about shrinking grass areas and replace with ground covers such as creeping thyme. The bees love thyme and it can be run over occasionally with a mower Another idea is to replace grass with a stone feature. There may be a teenager in the area willing to mow and use a weed whacker for a reasonable price.

Go native and replace some of the lawn with a meadow garden of native grasses and flowers. Once established this only needs mowing once a year. However, this needs a lot of research and planning in order for it to be successful.

I grassed over my vegetable garden and just grow veggies in a raised bed and containers; realizing that the containers will need fertilizing.  I find this provides me with enough vegetables, needs little weeding and less bending.

I plan to remain in my bungalow for several years and hope to be able to manage and enjoy my lower maintenance garden.

Further information;

Slowgardenlife.com by Catherine A. Carte: 47 low maintenance garden ideas

www. gardendesign.com

Gardening for a Lifetime – how to garden wisely as you get older by Sydney Eddison

Have You Heard of a Dead Hedge?

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

A dead hedge, rather than being someone’s landscaping failure, is a convenient way to recycle wood and other garden trimmings generated in our gardens.  It is basically a controlled pile of material that accumulates from pruning woody plants such as shrubs or other garden detritus. Brush piles are valuable but the idea here is to create a structure as a design element in your garden.  It could serve as a privacy screen, a garden bed edging, windbreak or even a plant support.  The gardener determines the height, width and length within some suggested guidelines.  Your construction can be boxy, wavy, tall or short depending on your garden design needs and preferences.  There a number of resources that offer details on the construction and benefits of a dead hedge.

A dead hedge is comprised of 2 opposing rows of supports that are pounded into the ground.  The rows can be as narrow as you want up to approximately 1.5 metres apart.  The stakes in each row can also be close together or up to 1.5 metres apart.  Wooden stakes, tree branches or steel rebar pounded into the ground make up the supporting structure.  These 2 rows create a gap which you then start filling with your chosen material.  The material in a dead hedge will compress and decompose over time making it possible to keep adding to it.  Meanwhile your hedge is providing habit and food for mammals, birds and insects plus adding nutrients to the soil.  Master Gardener Thom Luloff’s blog on the importance of dead wood in the garden is an excellent read.

Apios Americana, American Groundnut winding into the dead hedge. Photo: Lois Scott

The idea of a dead hedge had huge appeal for me as every pruning job produced a pile of trimmings that needed to be cut up, bundled and put out as yard waste.  It takes fewer cuts for me to fit it on my hedge and no need to package it up and haul it to the curb.  I was also running out of places to ‘artistically’ place wood in my garden. 

Dead hedge blending into the garden. Photo: Lois Scott

My dead hedge screens the compost bins in a back corner of the garden, plants growing around it integrate it into the garden and the wildlife loves it!  For me, it is a very positive addition to my controlled chaos garden.

An Easier Way to Garden – Raised Vegetable Garden Beds

By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Last fall, we replaced our wooden deck and had those old untreated cedar boards to dispose of. I had my handy husband build a 4’ W X 9’ L X 3’ H box in my existing vegetable garden.  We placed it in an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun.

Doing this in the fall allowed me to fill the bottom with the woody stems, disease free plant material, and maple leaves from my yard as I did my fall clean up. We waited until the spring to add a yard of top soil and compost which topped it off.

There are many benefits to raised garden beds

Agility and mobility issues

  • As we age, getting up and down in the garden becomes more difficult.

Soil issues

  • Because we no longer till our garden beds, compaction is a real problem, but if we are not walking on these beds, soil compaction is not a big issue.
  • Soil in raised bed tends to warm up earlier in the spring.
  • You need only improve soil in growing beds and not on pathways or unused areas.

Easier to weed

  • Planting rows close together because you don’t need to walk between, makes less bare soil for weeds to grow in.
  • Weeding on your knees is not necessary.
  • Use straw, woodchips or mulch on your pathways.
  • There are many options and considerations.

Materials they are made from

  • Wood is a common material and there are many prebuilt varieties.
  • Use only untreated wood if you are building your own.
  • Galvanized metal premade are very popular.

Size

  • Ensure your box is only 4’ wide, so you can reach into the bed without climbing in.
  • You can make the bed as long as you like…what fits the site and your needs.
  • There should be no bottom in your raised bed – for drainage as well as for root growth. Most beds are at least 8” high, giving good space for good garden soil.
  • Height can be anywhere from 6” to 4’, depending on how far down you want to bend when gardening and how far up you plan to grow your vegetables
  • Check out shapes and sizes in this article from Niki Jabbour.

Placement

  • Once installed and filled with soil, these are permanent structures, so be sure they are in enough sun (at least 6 hours).
  • For safety, be sure your box is level.

What you grow in raised beds

  • Vegetables like carrots, radish, beets, lettuce, chard, kale, cabbage, broccoli, and other brassicas are all good candidates
  • Peas and beans do well, but remember you may need to stake or have trellis for these taller vegetables.
  • Squash, cucumbers and zucchini may take over your raised bed, so you will have to train the plants to climb or have them trail outside your container.
  • Potatoes or leeks that need soil topping, may not work unless they are in a separate bed or area of the raised bed, where you will dig a trench and top up as they grow.
  • Tomatoes are often indeterminate, so may grow too tall for a raised bed of 4”. You probably only need a bed that is a foot or two deep.

Over the summer, the material in the bottom of my newly constructed bed composted and compressed and the soil dropped about 8”. If you are setting up your raised bed in the fall, I would recommend adding the top soil/compost in the fall and then topping up again in the spring.

And you will probably have to top up with fresh soil and compost every year as the soil settles and the “filler” you put in the bottom decomposes and shrinks. Also remember that crop rotation will still be important.

I am very happy I don’t have to bend over to pick beans and weeding has become so much easier.

There are many ideas on social media for raised beds. Check out these sites.

Peterborough Master Gardeners website search on raised beds

Raised Bed Gardens

Best vegetables to grow in raised beds