Each year, I marvel when the colour returns to the garden in the form of spring bulbs and each year I make a plan to add more! The beds are full of narcissus so much so that I have started planting in spots in my front fields. However, this fall I am aiming to do a Stinzenplanten (a Dutch term also known as a stinze lawn or stinze). A stinzenplanten is a naturalized and wild bulb garden that lives underground and emerges in the earliest spring. Why am I writing about a fall project now?? Some of the best fall bulb prices by retailers such as Veseys and Brecks take place in May when everyone is busy planting their summer gardens.
Because stinzes are planted using many of the “minor” bulbs, they begin to bloom very early thereby extending your season. Generally, they (and their foliage) are gone by the time you need to mow the lawn. (This is important since bulbs recharge for the following year by absorbing sunrays through their green foliage. Once the foliage has yellowed it is safe to mow). This does of course depend on the bulbs you choose to use. In my own experience daffodils do not make great candidates for this type of endeavour. Their long, heavy foliage does not yellow until mid June. That is a long time to go without mowing!!
In our zone by picking bulbs from the very early spring, early spring and midspring groups you should have 6 plus weeks of solid bloom.
Very Early Spring Bulbs include Snowdrops (Galanthus woronowwii) the first to appear, often from under the snow; Winter aconite (Eranthis cilicica) a sunny yellow hardy bulb.
Early Spring varieties include Snow glories (Chiondoxa forbesii) whose star shape flowers comes in a variety of blue colours, Crocus (Crocus vernus and species crocus) is a striking bloom that is available in many different colours.
Early to Mid Spring bulbs to consider are Blue Shades Anemone (Anenome blanda) with its daisy like appearance which look a little less formal than the other bulbs; Snakes Head Fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris) is an unusual bloom with its checkerboard appearance; Grape Hyacinth (Muscari) known for its unique, grape like clusters of flowers in a variety of colours.
Selecting the best spot for your display
For most of us, underplanting the entire lawn would not be feasible so why not choose a spot that will give the best show for your viewing pleasure. Remembering that the stinze will start in winter when we are still very housebound. Pick a well-drained area as you would for any bulb. Not only do you avoid the bulbs rotting but this will encourage spread and naturalization of your planting. Some folks choose areas under and around deciduous trees.
For me, I am going to borrow an idea from @mettebfauerskov and lay my stinze out following a random pattern of the garden hose on a section of lawn that is between the laneway and an island bed. It will be easily seen from the house and driving in and out.
Bulbs should be planted about 3 inches deep and can be planted as close as 3 inches. Many people use their bulb agars to drill the holes and then throw 2 or 3 bulbs into each hole and cover with dirt. I will probably just use my hori hori knife to dig. Most of these bulbs are not bothered by wildlife. Crocus is the exception but, in my experience, when you are planting large numbers, the squirrels never get them all (I overplant this bulb to account for some loss). As well, if you put your planting off until the end of October the feeding frenzy has begun to subside and there is less pressure on your bulbs.
At the 2024 Master Gardeners of Ontario Conference I had a chance to hear Dr. Michael McTavish, Ontario’s foremost expert on earthworms, speak about invasive jumping worms. First reported in southwestern Ontario in 2014, Ontario now has four species of these pheretemoid (litter dwelling) Asian worms. They’ve been observed as far north as Ottawa and their populations are growing at an alarming rate. In the USA, research on biocontrols is ongoing, but currently there are no registered pesticide options for either gardeners or land managers. Prevention is the only strategy.
Dr. McTavish’s message resonated with me. My conference roommate, a Master Gardener from Hamilton, has been dealing with them for two years. Her garden is one of the 44 confirmed jumping worm locations in Ontario (Figure 1). Since I visit Hamilton monthly to help in my mother’s garden, we both need to take precautions to avoid introducing this pest not only to mom’s Hamilton garden but also mine north of Peterborough.
Figure 1: Jumping worms have been reported to EDDMaps in the following Ontario jurisdictions: Lambton County (1), Niagara (2), Hamilton (12), Brant (1), Waterloo (1), Wellington (1), Halton (3), Peel (4), Dufferin (1), Simcoe (1), Toronto (14), York (1), Lennox & Addington (1), Lanark (1), but this is an under count since not everyone reports sightings (EDDMaps accessed April 29, 2024). For example, another Master Gardener, located in Ottawa, has found them in that jurisdiction.
In gardens, jumping worms quickly consume organic matter in the upper soil layer resulting in soil drying, erosion, loss of nutrients, and ultimately decreased plant growth. In forests, jumping worms rapidly consume the leaf litter disrupting nutrient cycles, preventing seed germination, decreasing biodiversity, damaging the soil biome, and degrading habitat. To learn more about the impacts, view this video by one of America’s leading researchers on jumping worms, Dr. Brad Herrick from the University of Wisconsin Madison Arboretum:
In the US jumping worms have been expanding their range since 1951, but in Ontario we still have opportunities to avoid introducing this pest to our gardens. Dr. McTavish identified three actions for gardeners.
Learn to identify jumping worms
Look for these three things in your garden or any natural area you frequent regularly:
Loose, dry, crumbly worm casts in layers, not piles. Casts look like coffee grounds or ground beef and layers can be up to 10–15 cm thick (Figure 2, below).
Figure 2: Photo Credit, Michael McTavish.
Worms in the casting layer that thrash about wildly when disturbed
Adult worms with a milky white ring that completely encircles the worm fairly close (14 segments) to the head (Figure 3, below). As well, the skin has a distinctive glassy sheen, the body has a snappy, turgid feel when grasped, and the tail may detach when the worm is threatened. The clitellum is the reproductive structure where the cocoons are stored and secreted.
Figure 3: Photo Credit, Bev Wagar.
Cocoons hatch in May when soil temperatures are consistently 10oC. The juvenile worms don’t have the identifying white ring until about 60 days later in the summer when they become adults. At that time they reproduce asexually (parthenogenetic), and a single worm can produce several dozen egg cases (cocoons) in one season. Cocoons are small and indistinguishable from dirt, hence easily transported on our shoes, tools and when moving infested plant roots and compost (Figure 4, below). The adult worms die in late fall when the soil freezes, but the cocoons survive the winter.
The best time to identify jumping worms is at the adult stage in summer and fall.
Report observations to EDDMaps
Most of the confirmed jumping worm records in Ontario are from gardens, but they have also been found on trails and in parks. If you do see one, report your sighting by taking and uploading a photo taken with your smartphone to EDDMaps. You can choose a privacy option to obscure the exact geographical location as has been done for most of the records in EDDMaps to date. There are several official verifiers, including Dr. McTavish, and distribution information contributed by citizen scientists will motivate further research on control of this invasive species.
Use best practices to slow the spread
Practicing sanitation and dedicating tools and shoes for work only in known infested areas and not moving soil, plants and compost will limit spread of jumping worms. If you do have jumping worms you can still do a lot to slow the spread to other areas, and the following practices can also substantially decrease the likelihood that they won’t invade your garden in the first place.
Inspect any new plant, soils and mulch materials, including bagged leaves, coming into your garden. If you find jumping worms, put them in a jar filled with vinegar or isopropyl alcohol or a ziploc bag. Do not put them in the compost or throw them away.
Ideally, make your own mulch and compost on your own property. In New York State Jumping Worms spread was traced to wood chip mulch piles made from the 15,000 trees downed in Hurricane Sandy that were moved to different parks (Dobson 2024).
If exchanging plants, swish plant roots and gently massage the roots to remove most of the soil in first one bucket of lukewarm water and then if more soil is present, another bucket. Inspect the roots for cocoons which are visible to the human eye when not obstructed by soil. Let soil settle in the buckets for a couple of days before carefully draining the water and then solarize the soil (Görres 2024).
If you do bring in bulk soil, compost or mulch, solarize it by spreading it 15 to 20 centimetres thick on dry cardboard over a length of 3 to 4.5 metres and cover it with translucent painter’s plastic drop cloth (6 mil thick). Let it sit for 72 hours and get to more than 40oC which will kill worms and cocoons as these don’t survive temperatures over 40oC (Johnston and Herrick 2019).
Get in the habit of cleaning the soles of your shoes or boots before and after hiking in natural areas or visiting or working in other gardens. Not only will this help avoid spreading jumping worm cocoons, it will also help avoid spreading seeds of invasive plants.
Anything we do now to prevent or slow the spread of jumping worms gives researchers time to do studies to identify control options and seek regulatory approvals. It might also give native plants and wildlife time to adapt to yet another forest pest.
I left Hamilton last week after washing my garden shoes, gardening clothes, and Hori-Hori garden knife. I also showed my mother the video at the above link and, given the incidence of jumping worms in Hamilton, asked her not to accept any plants from other gardens.
What will you do differently to mitigate the possibility of bringing jumping worms into your garden?
Görres, Josef. 2024. Spread, Impact and Control of Jumping Worms. Presentation to University of Rhode Island Master Gardener Program. https://youtu.be/rtb4ffRNCS4
Even with a small space, container vegetable gardening can be successful resulting in the production of a wide selection of fresh vegetables and herbs for consumption available throughout the growing season. Careful planning, ensuring the proper environmental conditions are considered and adhering to the appropriate cultural conditions will all ensure success.
The first step in planning is to consider what you are most likely to consume – growing vegetables with either a low yield or low interest by you and your family will not likely inspire you to provide the proper care and maintenance to be successful. However, choosing vegetables and herbs that deliver throughout the season and which you/your family will enjoy is a good starting place. Next … consider the environmental conditions (sunlight, temperature, nutritional requirements, and watering needs) and cultural conditions (such as space needed, soil requirements and plant compatibility) as this will assist you in the selection and scope of your vegetable container garden.
A chart, such as in the example below, allows you to carefully consider the location, groupings and planting schedule for the vegetables and herbs under consideration. Keep in mind one critical factor in our climate…the growing season in our region is short (~134 days for 5a/b) https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates/ON
Two strategies to extend this season are: 1. For crops that have a longer growing season, start them by seed indoors or purchase them as a seedling/small plant (e.g. tomatoes), and 2. Plant some cold-hardy or semi-cold-hardy vegetables to extend the season beyond the first frost (e.g. broccoli, kale, radish, carrot). In addition, I recommend that herbs be purchased as small plants as they will begin to provide season-long enjoyment quickly and are quite reasonably priced.
Another consideration to increase yield is “succession planting” – a method whereby the same crop can be sown multiple times, spaced apart in intervals. This strategy can also be utilized with inter-planting whereby a row of one crop is alternated with another crop (in this case with a shorter growing season). Once the early harvest occurs, another row of the first crop can be sewn in its’ place. This allows for 2 different crops to be planted together in the same container (e.g. carrots and radishes) with successive harvests in a small space.
One of the final considerations is time…which as we all know is precious. Understanding how much time you want to invest in the garden is important. As with any vegetable garden, sowing seeds, transplanting, fertilizing, harvesting and inspecting the plants takes time. One added component with container vegetables is the need to additional watering. Depending on the weather some crops may need to be watered daily or even twice/day. If the container garden is significant, a drip irrigation system for containers (e.g. with a backflow preventer), should be considered to reduce the watering workload!!
Table 1. Example of a Vegetables/Herbs Planning Chart
Vegetable/ Herb
DaysTo Germ.
Days to Harvest
EnvironmentalConsiderations
OtherConsiderations
Yield(kg/3m row)
Beans (Pole) (DS)
6-14
65-70
Sun; Average Moisture; Sandy well drained soil
Space seeds 6-8” around base of pole in tripod; fertilize with 10-10-10 after pods set
2.5-4.5
Kale (T)
N/A
Sun; well drained loam with high organic matter
Heavy feeder; starter and then 30-0-0
2-3.5
Tomatoes (Cherry) (T)
N/A
50-65
Sun; slightly acidic well drained soil
Heavy feeder – use starter, then 33-0-0 two weeks before first ripening and 5-10-5 two weeks after ripening; bury stem deep when transplanting
100-200/ plant
Peppers (T)
N/A
70-85
Sun; well drained loose soil; average moisture
Light feeder; transplant when soil is warm
2-8
Carrots (DS)
10-14
55
Sun; Average Moisture; Deep, well-aerated sandy loam
Sow shallow 3-5 weeks before the last frost; can be sown every 3 weeks for continuous harvest
3-4.5
Radishes (DS)
4-7
20-25
As above
Sow in early spring at 1/2”; thin to 2”; inter-plant with carrots
+++
Leaf Lettuce (T)
N/A
40-80
Sun/tolerates shade; rich well drained loam
Medium to heavy feeder; use starter and side dress if additional needed;
2-4.5
Basil (T)
7-14
Sun; Moist nutrient rich soil; well drained
Pinch central stem to encourage a bushy plant; harvest the plant often for ongoing growth
Cont.
Oregano (T)
N/A
N/A
Sun/part shade; needs good drainage
Cont.
Rosemary (T)
N/A
N/A
Sun; well drained sandy or loamy soil; drought tolerant
Light feeder: mix compost into the soil and then use balanced fertilizer as needed
All purpose fertilizer in the spring at half strength
Cont.
DS= direct sew seed/T=transplant small plant
Once you have determined your crops to be considered for your container vegetable garden, it is a good idea to identify the containers to be used and the arrangement of these containers (see Photos 1&2 below). Containers should not only be organized to maximize space and sunlight, but also to be esthetically appealing.
In the arrangement on the left in photo 1, the tall pole beans and cherry tomato plant is set at the back, with the peppers, carrots, radishes, and green onions at the front – providing a layered look and maximizing space on a deck.
Other considerations can be either a “tower” or a Living Wall whereby vegetables/herbs are stacked, utilizing only a small footprint in a small space. A Living Wall can be created whereby multiple planters are suspended by rope or chain under the edge of a deck (as long as there is full sunlight); lettuce, potatoes, and other mixes of vegetables and herbs can be placed together creating an appealing planting with various heights and trailing plants and herbs.
If you have an inclination for growing your own food, do not be discouraged if you do not have access to a traditional garden space. Small space vegetable gardening provides an opportunity to be creative, and if planned properly, you can eat healthy fresh vegetables throughout the season.
Today is Earth Day! Earth day began in 1970 in the USA by Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson. Senator Nelson organized a countrywide demonstration to highlight environmental issues. In 1990, Earth Day was recognized worldwide including in Canada. On April 22nd each year, we honour the achievements of the environmental movement.
There are lots of ways to celebrate Earth Day! One of my favourites is to plant a tree.
The Oaks (Quercus sp.), Birches (Betula sp.) and Maples (Acer sp.) are amongst the native trees that encourage the most biodiversity in our zone 5 plant hardiness area. And like all trees, they contribute to carbon sequestration in the soil, improve air quality with the release of oxygen and the filtering of pollutants and a mature tree’s canopy can help to shade us and keep us cool in summer.
There are 9 species of Oak trees native to Ontario and 1 native to British Columbia. Oaks are ecologically important with their support of a wide range of mammals, insects and birds. Oak acorns serve as a vital food source. We love their majestic appearance and beautiful fall colour.
Oak acorns
The red (Q. rubra) and the white oaks (Q. alba) are large trees that need lots of room to grow. There are smaller oaks. The Chinquapin oak (Q. muehlenbergii) may be grown as a large shrub or a small tree. For more information, click Oaks.
There are 7 species of Birch trees native to Ontario. Birch trees support wildlife including moths and butterflies, other insects, birds and small mammals. There are 3 that sport that beautiful exfoliating bark. They are paper birch (B. papyrifera), yellow birch (B. alleghaniensis) and river birch (B. nigra). For more information, click Birches.
Birch tree catkins
There are 7 species of native Maple trees commonly found in Ontario. Maple trees provide homes for insects , seeds for food and nesting sites for birds and small rodents. Some species make great understory trees for a layered look in your garden that also provides a more natural habitat. Some are used as stately specimen trees that provide shade and gorgeous fall colour.
Both Sugar maple (A. saccharum) and red maples (A. rubrum) grow into large specimen trees. The sugar maple has a particularly striking fall foliage. If it is a smaller maple that you need, try moosewood/striped maple (A. pennsylvannicum). For more information, click Maples.
Sugar maple tapping
When planting any tree, it is important to select an appropriate location and species, to use good planting techniques and cultural practices that will help to maintain a healthy tree. For more information, click planting trees.
Trees are our gifts for the future. CelebrateEarth Day!
Back in the 1890s, the mouth of the Don River in Toronto was filled in to make way for industry—known as the Port Lands. This changed the landscape and the plants that used to grow there “disappeared.” In 2021 while the site was being ecologically restored as part of the Port Lands Flood Protection Project, workers discovered some unusual plants that had sprouted shortly after seven metres of soil had been excavated. They were thought to be different than the usual species seen at the site.[i] Researchers at the University of Toronto began working to identify the species of plants and seeds found.[ii] Some of the plants included Schoenoplectus (Bulrush), Typha (Cattail), Salix exigua (Coyote Willow), Equisetum (Horsetail), as well as mosses and liverworts. Research is still ongoing as they seek to verify whether these plants came from an ancient seed bank. Through carbon dating, the research team was able to determine that some of the seeds from soil samples were between 150-400 years old! So far, most of the seeds that have been identified were from the Cyperaceae (Sedge) family with the majority in the Carex (True Sedges) genus followed by Schoenoplectus (Bulrushes), Sparganium (Bur-Reed) and Typha (Cattail).[iii] This is all very exciting because it shows that while some urban environments may be drastically altered, they are not necessarily permanently altered, and we may be able to successfully restore such landscapes to their pre-industrialized states.
Seed Dispersal and Physical Dormancy
Most seeds are known to be “physiologically dormant.” This means that they have an internal inhibiting mechanism (“endogenous”) that requires exposure to certain conditions to break dormancy (e.g. light, temperature, etc.).[iv] “Physically dormant” seeds have an external inhibiting mechanism (“exogenous”)—a hard coating that inhibits germination unless it becomes permeable–allowing water to enter, and then germination is initiated.[v] Some years ago, I planted a Zebrina Hollyhock Mallow (Malva sylvestris) in my garden. It is considered a biennial or a short-lived perennial. It bloomed but didn’t come back the following year and no new plants emerged from any possible dispersed seeds. It was not until about five years later that two plants emerged—about four metres away from the original plant site. These seeds are quite hard and require some form of natural scarification to break their seed coats. Scarification can occur through fluctuations in temperature, damage by gardening tools, damage by microorganisms, fungi, or animals; or transit through animals’ digestive tracts.”[vi] Myrmecochory could possibly explain the transfer of the seed from one location to another as seeds in the Malva family are frequently targeted by ants.[vii] In myrmecochory, ants transport the seeds and then remove and eat a nutritious coating from the seeds called the elaiosome. Sometimes when the elaiosome is removed, the seed coat becomes thinner, and this enables water to enter. However, Baskin and Baskin suggest that removal of the elaiosome by ants on seeds like this may not influence the seed’s ability to imbibe moisture.[viii]
When I think about some of the plants I grew from seed last year, I recall one species that did not have good germination—Geranium maculatum (Wild Geranium). There are different causes for poor germination, but one possibility is that the seed was not fresh enough or that their moisture content was not sufficiently retained. I learned that this species is somewhat recalcitrant or hydrophilic. These types of seeds are sensitive to drying and as time progresses, the percentage of seed death increases. William Cullina, in Wildflowers: A Guide to Growing and Propagating Native Flowers of North America, recommends sowing Geranium maculatum immediately upon harvest of the seeds in the summer. However, germination may be successful with seeds stored in plastic for 4-6 months—perhaps indicating this species inclination towards being partially recalcitrant.[xi] According to Dr. Norman Deno in Seed Germination Theory and Practice, Geranium maculatum is best sown in the summer from fresh seed and then is exposed to winter temperatures before germinating in the spring. Seeds are mostly dead when kept in dry storage for more than 6 months.[xii] One of the lessons learned here is to research the germination requirements thoroughly as well as inquire about the storage conditions/age of the seed before obtaining seed of a recalcitrant species from a supplier.
Heteromorphic or Dimorphic Seeds
Although considered a composite species, Bidens frondosa (Devil’s Beggarticks), usually lacks ray flowers and only has disk flowers. As a result, they are less attractive to pollinators than the other Bidens species.[xiii] It also has a weedier reputation. Being an annual, each plant can produce around 1,200 seeds that are viable for 3-5 years. The seed is a two-barbed achene that can stick to clothing and pet fur. Interestingly, the achenes are known to be heteromorphic or dimorphic in nature—there are two different kinds. Those produced on the periphery are black, thicker, and are less dormant than the ones produced in the middle. Those in the middle are brown, elongated, and are more dormant than the others. This is an example of how a plant has a particular way of increasing its rate of reproductive survival—the less dormant achenes fall close to the mother plant and germinate the following year while the ones that are more dormant are carried by animals (“epizoochory’) or by wind (“anemochory’) to germinate at different times in new environments.[xiv] These seed features help explain the resiliency and ability of this species to proliferate.
[iii] Riskin, Shelby. Email communication (December 2023).
[iv] Willis, C.G., Baskin, C.C., Baskin, J.M., Auld, J.R., Venable, D.L., Cavender-Bares, J., Donohue, K., Rubio de Casas, R. and (2014), The evolution of seed dormancy: environmental cues, evolutionary hubs, and diversification of the seed plants. New Phytol, 203. p. 301. https://doi.org/10.1111/nph.12782
[v] Baskin, Carol C. and Jerry M. Baskin. Seeds: Ecology, Biogreography, and Evolution of Dormancy and Germination. 2nd Edition. 2014. p. 72.
Flowering shrubs are the great “bones” of your garden. They give structure, are generally long lived, offer winter interest and protection for creatures. But most do need to be pruned as they age. When you prune depends on when in the season the shrub blooms. Early bloomers like forsythia, deutzia, flowering almond, purple sandcherry or bridal wreath spireas should be pruned after flowering. Summer flowering shrubs such as hydrangea, dogwood, potentilla, summer flowering spireas, butterfly bush or rose of sharon can be pruned in late winter or early spring. Taking just the spent flowers would be a light prune which can be done when the shrub is young, looking healthy and keeping its natural shape. The practice of cutting out a third of the bush which includes the oldest discoloured branches, branches that cross each other, or dead branches will keep your shrub looking good and producing good bloom. Cutting stems on an angle facing out and just above a bud is a best practice.
An older, established shrub can become wonky looking, have many dead branches, grow too large or stop producing flowers. This is when you can do a drastic prune called coppicing.
Coppicing is a procedure that has been popular in England and Europe for ages. It involves cutting back the shrub to the ground or just above the ground. This stimulates the roots and the plant will send up fresh new shoots which will develop into a renewed shrub.
Many gardeners will coppice their Annabelle hydrangea each year, so it comes up from the ground to become the beautiful late summer flowering shrub.
Coppicing is usually done in late winter or early spring, when the plant is still dormant. Coppiced shrubs should be mulched with a good compost or fertilizer.
Dogwood before and after coppicing (no growth left, but still early)
Unfortunately, flowering will not happen in the year this pruning is done.
Shrubs that can benefit from this aggressive pruning include:
Deutzia
Forsythia
Elderberry (sambucus)
Red Osier Dogwood (cornus sericea)
Smokebush (cotinus)
Beauty bush (kolkwitzia)
Ninebark (physocarpus)
Weigela
Mock Orange (philadephus)
Rose of Sharon (hibiscus syriacus)
Willow (french pussywillow, salix)
Little Lime hydrangea before and after light prune
Sean James does not recommend coppicing lilac which tend to just send up suckers, or potentilla which are slow to respond when coppiced. Here is a link to show you Sean James coppicing a deutzia
Pruning of any kind can seem intimidating to the beginner. Like any task, the more you do it, the more comfortable you will be. A tip that I use is to stand back and look at your shrub as you prune, to see the overall effect. And remember to research if you are not sure when to prune to avoid pruning off the flower buds that may be setting.
Now get your pruners sharpened and out you go!
But don’t look at the solar eclipse today without proper eye protection!
Have you ever wondered how some plants manage to survive freezing temperatures while others wither away at the slightest frost? It all comes down to a fascinating trait called hardiness.
Hardiness in plants refers to their ability to endure cold weather conditions, especially freezing temperatures, without being damaged. Plants that are considered hardy have evolved various mechanisms to protect themselves from the harsh effects of cold.
Most perennials sold in garden centres in our region are hardy if their tags refer to zone 5 or lower. Zone 6 perennials may survive if planted near a foundation in a sheltered spot. Trees are also labelled with a zone, and I’ve given up buying trees that are not in zone 4 or lower. Plants listed as “annuals” like most vegetable seedlings are simply not hardy at all in our zone. They may be hardy in other zones like Florida, though! In general, Peterborough is listed as hardiness zone 5a. The lower the number and letter of the alphabet, the colder it gets in the winter and the more hardy a plant needs to be in order to survive.
So how does hardiness work? One key factor contributing to a plant’s hardiness is its genetic makeup. Some plants naturally possess traits that make them more resistant to freezing temperatures. These traits can include thickened cell walls which provide structural support and help prevent cell damage when temperatures drop. Additionally, certain plants produce antifreeze proteins that lower the freezing point of their cell fluids, allowing them to survive in sub-zero temperatures.
Another important aspect of plant hardiness is acclimation. Just like animals, plants can adapt to their environment over time. As temperatures gradually decrease in the fall, hardy plants undergo physiological changes that prepare them for the cold ahead. This process, known as cold acclimation, involves the production of protective compounds such as sugars and proteins, as well as changes in cell membrane composition to maintain fluidity and prevent cells from rupturing.
Lastly, some hardy plants have developed mechanisms to avoid freezing altogether. They might shed their leaves, which are more susceptible to damage, or enter a state of dormancy until warmer temperatures return.
In summary, a combination of genetic traits and adaptive mechanisms allows the hardy plants in my gardens and yours to brave some of the chilliest of climates.
Wow. What a pleasure to finally see this book in print. Written by two very knowledgeable Ontario gardeners — Rick Gray and Shaun Booth — this is the native plant gardening resource I wish I had more than 5 years ago when I started incorporating native plants in my garden.
Focused specifically on the Southern Great Lakes Region, it’s an all-in-one, easy to use resource for those interested in plants that not only look wonderful but fulfill a critical role in our gardens in supporting wildlife, birds, and pollinators like butterflies, moths, bees, and insects.
It reminds me of an encyclopedia, with a full page spread on each native plant (and there’s over 150!). It’s not surprising to me that’s it’s already #4 on the Globe & Mail’s bestseller list.
The book is visually designed to make it easy to see key information at a glance, using quick guide key icons and two colour-coded bars providing exposure/light and moisture requirements. We’ve been blessed with several excellent native plant books in the past few years, but I appreciated several unique elements I hadn’t seen before – numerous appendices (matching soil types, seed collection and preparation, propagation, and butterflies and their host plants), as well as each plant’s Ontario’s Species at Risk status.
You’ll understand what each plant needs to thrive, how big they will get, and how to make more plants to share with your friends!
Sample spread page
As a Peterborough Master Gardener I have long been engaged in two Facebook groups – theOntario Native Plant Gardeninggroup (started by Shaun) and the Master Gardeners of Ontario group (where I am an admin and moderator). I remember clearly in May 2023 Rick trying to gauge interest from members on their proposed native plant book, and the incredibly positive response that they received. So full disclosure – I knew I was going to love this book before it was ever published.
The authors explain why the plants are organized by botanical/Latin name, which is important because common names can vary by region. However, if you only know the common name you can always search using the alphabetical index at the back of the book.
Essentially, each entry is a ‘checklist in a page’ on what you need to grow the plant. There are lots of photos (whole plant, leaves, flowers, fruiting bodies), a detailed description, easy to see symbols (the Quick Guide), information on the USDA Hardiness Zone, lifespan, propagation, and wildlife/pollinator value.
Skill levels are also mentioned but don’t be alarmed – most are listed as beginner, but there are certainly a few native plants that are a bit more challenging to grow and propagate.
Table of Contents plus shameless plug for my wonderful local, independent bookstore where I ordered the book.
I appreciate that in the introductory chapters the authors clearly explain things such as:
What is a native plant?
Aggressive vs invasive
Origin of the term weed
Nativar vs cultivar
Value of native plants
The authors clearly have a good sense of humour – there are pages titled “How to use this book”, “A coneflower by any other name”, “Fifty shades of…shade” and my favourite “2b or not 2b” (on the rationale for using USDA Hardiness zones). I loved the section on propagation and codes as I’m actively trying to grow more native plant material in my area.
I have to say that as a seasoned gardener I was surprised to see Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower) is not in the book (not native to most of this region but often sold as a native apparently) and Agastache foeniculum (Anise hyssop) is one that is included specifically because it is non-native to Ontario (it’s a western prairie plant). Oops! I have both in my garden north of Peterborough.
Was anything missing? Technically no, as the authors were clear that this was not a garden design book. Perhaps after putting out Vol. 2 (the other 150+ plants I know they wanted to include), they’ll consider something on understanding planting density and creating root competition, which I am learning is different to conventional perennials, and good plant pairings (which native plants support others).
One quick comment I will add is that native plants are wonderful once they are established, so you may need to do a bit of watering that first year, but after that they need no watering or fertilizing.
This book is perfect for reading at home (my husband gave me a quick quiz contest this afternoon on the Latin names) or taking with you to your local nursery as you search for native plants to add to your garden. Having trouble finding these plants? The Halton Region Master Gardeners maintain a dynamic map listing native plant nurseries around the province. Check it out!
The bottom line – a wonderful addition to my garden library, and to anyone interested in incorporating more native plants in their Ontario gardens.
The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region
By Rick Gray and Shaun Booth Publisher: Firefly Books, 2024 Paperback: 352 pages ISBN-10: 0-2281-0460-2 Price: C$45.00; available through local booksellers and larger book companies
About the Authors
Rick Gray (The Native Plant Gardener) has more than 300 species of native plants in his garden in southwestern Ontario and provides native plant garden design services.
Shaun Booth runs In Our Nature, an ecological garden design business, and launched the Ontario Native Plant Gardening group on Facebook.
Want More Information?
Many wonderful books on native plant gardening and naturalization have been published in the past few years – anything byLorraine Johnsonis a great complement to this book, and I love Piet Oudolf’s work (although he doesn’t always use native plants).
Dr Linda Chalker-Scott (and the Garden Professors blogon Facebook) is a great source of good, solid scientific information on gardeners keen to avoid the misinformation often seen on social media.
You can learn about or review a few terms and definitions and then “dazzle” your friends and family with your seed starting knowledge and vocabulary!
The process by which a plant grows from a seed into a seedling. What is germination?
Optimal water, oxygen and proper temperature. What are the conditions a seed needs forgermination?
The absorption of water by a seed. What is imbibition?
The part of a seed which acts as a food source for the developing plant embryo. What is theendosperm?
The first leaf or one of the first pair of leaves developed by the embryo of a seed. What is acotyledon?
The part of a plant embryo that develops into the primary root. What is a radicle?
The process by which plants use sunlight, water and carbon dioxide to create oxygen and energy in the form of sugar. What is photosynthesis?
A sterile, lightweight, free from weed seed product that is usually composed of vermiculite and peat or coir with no true soil in it. What is a soil-less seed starting mixture?
The process in which seedlings/plants grow leggy (long), pale and yellowed due to insufficient light. What is etiolation?
A disease of young seedlings caused by certain fungi and water mold that thrive in cool, wet conditions. Providing constant warmth under seedlings can help prevent this. What is dampingoff? Learn how to prevent damping off!
The process of allowing a plant to transition from a protected indoor area to the harsh outdoor conditions of fluctuating temperatures, wind and full sun. What is hardening off? Learn how to harden off!
Moving a plant into the garden so it can continue to grow. What is transplanting or plantingout?
In 1696, a Sicilian monk discovered a vividly coloured flower with a bountiful fragrance in the hills surrounding the monastery. He transplanted it into his garden to grow on and was soon sending seeds from these transplants to other countries. He had discovered the sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus). This variety is still readily available today and is known as Cupani’s original.
Cupani’s original
Over the subsequent years, plant breeders (especially in England) went onto develop numerous varieties and by 1910, the sweet pea was considered one of the most popular annual flowers under cultivation. It was often a garden favorite here in Ontario. Unfortunately, the sweet pea is not featured as often in our gardens. Our changing climate (more heat, less rain) has made it more of a challenge to grow this plant successfully. However, it can be done with a little planning.
Sweet peas are plants that thrive in cool weather and can withstand a fair degree of frost. I aim to plant mine outside 4-6 weeks before the last frost. This gives them time to establish a strong root system when temperatures are moderate and moisture plentiful. This also helps them to withstand the high temperatures of summer.
Sweet peas are deep rooted even as seedlings and need to be potted into a large container such as a 4 inch pot. My preference is to use “root trainers”. These are containers that open like a book, are five inches in depth and are have longitudinal grooves in their sides. These grooves encourage roots to grow straight down and prevent root circling. When it comes time to plant our, you just open up the trainer and lift out the plant intact.
Root trainers closed and open
Root trainers in rack with humidity dome
Starting the seed. Sweet peas have a hard outer coat. Many people soak the seed in water for 24 hr. prior to sowing to allow the seed coat to soften. There are others that “pre-sprout” the seeds by placing them in a folded wet paper towel that is placed in a plastic Ziploc bag and left in a warm place. Seeds are checked, those that have begun to sprout are planted into prepared pots. I have done both and found that the paper towel method results in a better germination rate but takes place over a much longer time period. Sweet peas take on average 14 -21 days to germinate when kept at 55-65 F. This time frame can vary widely between different varieties. This year, one variety was above ground before the others had even made an appearance. Once germinated, I grow my seedlings along at 50F which encourages root development and less top growth. Sweet peas are a climbing vine and require pinching when they are about 6-8 inches. Pinching encourages side shoots to develop which results in a stronger bushier plant.
Seeds soaking (left) and seeds being presprouted in paper towel; Presprouted seed (right)
About a week before planting out, I start to harden the plants off in order that they will be able to withstand the move to outdoors in mid-April. Once hardened, they can be planted out.
Site selection. Sweet Peas prefer slightly alkaline, well drained soil that has been amended with organic matter (as they are heavy feeders). They should be kept moist and will require trellising. Although they are full sun plants, they benefit from protection the harsh afternoon summer sun. In my case, I grow them on two trellises on the east side of my brick house. This provides protection from the harsh western sunshine. As well, the brick of the house provides some warmth early in the season that helps to moderate any very cold weather events that may occur. The location near the house makes it easy to remember to provide supplemental water when needed.
Sweet Peas require deadheading or harvesting on a regular basis (twice per week) to prevent seed from developing as once seed formation takes place the plants ceases to flower. I harvest mine for cut flowers and while they have only a short vase life (4 days) the scent is wonderful in the house. During the heat of the summer, the plant will eventually stop flowering however it will start again in the cooler days of autumn.
A myriad of colours and varieties are available to choose from. Heritage varieties such as Cupani or Painted Ladies are still popular. There are many English Spencer types (large and very frilly although less tolerant of the heat). Modern selections such as Mammoth and Old Spice have been bred to be somewhat heat resistant. The Elegance series is a short day variety that can be planted for fall bloom.
Once you have sweet peas, you will find it difficult to go without them.
“Sweet peas were the kind of flowers fairies slept in.” Allison Pearson
The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners 
