Category Archives: Butterflies and Moths

Beware those Wildflower Mixes!

    By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

    The Oxford Dictionary defines “wildflower” as “a flower of an uncultivated variety or a flower growing freely without human intervention.”  It has nothing to do with the species’ native range, its benefits for pollinators, or its impacts on ecosystems. A “wildflower” could be native, non-native or at worst invasive.

    Last year at this time, I wrote a blog post about roadside wildflowers. Most of these flowers (like chicory [Cichorium intybus] on the left or Oxeye Daisy [Leucanthemum vulgare]) are non-native opportunists from Europe or Asia that colonize quickly on disturbed sites or ditches and wetlands and outcompete native species, but lots of people assume they are native because they’re everywhere along roadsides (I did for years!).

    The bottom line? Wildflower does not equal native.

    So, if you want to buy a wildflower mix to create a long-term habitat for native pollinators, beneficial insects, and bees in your gardens, the mixes found at big box stores and large nurseries are probably not the mixes you want.

    Why the Label can Mislead

    A lot of retail “wildflower” mixes are designed for fast colour. They focus on non-native annual flowers, which bloom quickly and beautifully in the first season but fail to support local pollinators (and isn’t that the point?), or can even become invasive.

    While mixes don’t need to be exclusively comprised of species native to Ontario to provide good habitat for pollinators and beneficial insects (although that’s the best case scenario), they shouldn’t be invasive and should be perennials so that your garden continues to look good year after year.

    Why is this Important?

    Pollinators need more than flowers that simply look pretty. They need plants that fit local conditions and provide food, shelter, and nesting support over time – that are beneficial to the local ecosystem.

    What’s the biggest red flag? Seed mixes that only provide the common names of species instead of the scientific (Latin) names. While common names can be easier to remember and pronounce, they also vary by region, and one plant can have several different common names. This can cause confusion about what the actual species is.

    A Case in Point

    Last year at the PMG A Day for Gardeners a lady approached me with a large bag of pollinator seed mix as I was working on the advice table. She wanted to know if it was good. There were no Latin names (first red flag) so I asked her to leave it with me to investigate.

    After checking as best I could we determined that almost 80 percent of the seeds were not native and were annuals. She planned on returning the bag to the store.

    The Problem with Mixed Seed Packets

    • Big companies that sell across Canada create one seed mix to sell across the entire country but what might be native in Alberta probably won’t be in Ontario
    • Seeds have different germination requirements so you may find some seeds don’t germinate at all
    • Different seeds may not grow well together
    • Some seeds may not like your site conditions and others may become dominant

    The worst problem is if they contain non-native, invasive seeds.

    Let’s look at an example. McKenzie Wildflowers Pollinator Mix.

    1. Only five flowers native to Ontario (*) and all less than 5% of the mix except for the Purple Coneflower, which is 12.67% and Lanceleaf coreopsis, which is 6.33%
    2. The first three flowers, which comprise over 42% of the mix, are all non-native
    3. Your seeds are only 14% of the mix – the rest is vermiculite (filler)

    Here’s a full breakdown.

    Better Ways to Choose

    The best seed mixes are transparent. They tell you exactly which species are included, how much of each is in the packet, and whether the plants are native to your region. Regional native mixes can be useful, especially when they include a balance of annuals and perennials and are clearly suited to your regional climate.

    If you’re serious about supporting biodiversity, the most important thing you can do is choose seeds that are native to your specific region.

    I’ve seen several companies create better wildflower mixes in the past few years, including Northern Wildflowers, Native Plants in Claremont, OSC and, for large projects, St Williams Ecology Centre. I’m sure there are others I have missed so be sure to comment if you know any!

    One key thing to remember with native plant seeds is that most need winter stratification (a cool, wet natural dormancy period over winter) to germinate well. That means that direct garden sowing should take place in the late fall after the first frost (mid-September to November, depending on your region), not in the spring. If seeds can’t be stratified, many will not germinate until the following spring and germination rates may be slightly lower.

    A Simple Rule for Gardeners

    If your goal is to truly help pollinators, choose local native plants first and sow your seeds in the fall for best germination. Avoid mystery mixes (especially those with only common names), check the label closely, and be cautious of bags that promise an instant meadow without giving details. Colourful flowers are nice, but real pollinator support comes from the right plants in the right place, and that doesn’t happen overnight.

    Choose the Right Seeds – Go Native, Not Just “Wild”


    Additional Reading

    iNaturalist — a tool to help you garden more ecologically

    By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

    Are you curious about the birds, insects, and other wildlife visiting your garden? iNaturalist (free iOS/Android app) lets you photograph organisms, get AI suggestions on identification, and submit observations that expert naturalists can verify and researchers can use. Knowing which organisms are using your garden both gives you a greater appreciation of its contribution to the local ecology and can help you support visiting wildlife’s needs. A few examples of how you can use iNaturalist follow.

    • You can easily generate a summary of observations in your garden in iNaturalist–in my case 68 species of butterflies and moths in my garden north of Peterborough since 2021.
    This is just a partial summary of the species of butterflies and moths observed in my garden. Custom summaries can easily be generated in iNaturalist–no need to keep your own list!
    • Two summers ago I found caterpillars eating my Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus). iNaturalist identified them as Snowberry Clearwing Moth (Hemaris diffinis). After pupating, they overwinter in leaf litter — so leaving leaves under trees and shrubs can protect its pupae and that of many other butterflies and moths.
    • You can use iNaturalist to learn which species use your garden and then plant their host plants (required to feed its caterpillars). In 2024 I recorded a rare Spicebush Swallowtail (Papilio troilus) visiting Bee Balm (Monarda didyma). Its hosts are Sassafras and Spicebush — plants of the Carolinian Forest ecoregion. Researchers using citizen science records over an 18-year period have already documented North American butterfly range changes towards cooler and wetter locations with climate warming (da Silva and Diamond 2024). The next spring, I planted 12 seedlings of Spicebush. Although planting native species from further south of your location is generally not recommended, small experiments can be informative.

    I submitted the above 2 photos to iNaturalist. My observation was reviewed by one of Ontario’s foremost butterfly experts, Rick Cavasin, who verified it was actually a Spicebush Swallowtail. It is one of only a few observations to date of this butterfly in central Ontario.

    • You could also use iNaturalist to identify a species you want to attract to your garden. I recently heard about a Brooklyn Bridge Park (New York City) gardener’s success in attracting the pollen specialist Spring Beauty Mining Bee (Andrena erigeniae) by planting hundreds of its host plant, Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica), over several years. Twenty-five percent of eastern North America’s 770 native bumble bee species are pollen specialists that can only raise their larvae on pollen from either a group of closely-related plant families, a single genus, or, even just a single species (Fowler & Droege 2020).
    Eastern Spring Beauty (above) and Carolina Spring Beauty (Claytonia caroliniana) bloom in early spring in northeastern North American woodlands. The pollen specialist, Spring Beauty Mining Bee can only raise its larvae on their pollen.
    • I am winter sowing Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) to support spring pollinators and to try attracting the Cranesbill Miner (Andrena distans) another pollen specialist, but this may be challenging because there are no reports of this species north of Peterborough (see map below). The lack of records could be due to fewer iNaturalist observers in this location and gardeners’ casual contributions could provide a more complete picture of biodiversity from their gardens.
    Observations of Cranesbill Miner (Andrena distans) on iNaturalist as of February 18, 2026.

    Getting Started with iNaturalist

    I hope you are inspired to use this tool. You can download either the iOS (for an iPhone) or android version of iNaturalist from the App Store. This quick video shows you how to use iNaturalist while this one provides more details and shows how you can use data in iNaturalist to learn which species have been observed in your local area.

    To Learn more about Ecological Gardening watch this TED Talk by Rebecca McMackin which has more than 450,000 views. 

    If you like butterflies, you may find this pocket guide to Ontario’s butterflies and moths by Rick Cavasin helpful. 

    Research Cited

    da Silva, C. R. B., & Diamond, S. E. (2024). Local climate change velocities and evolutionary history explain multidirectional range shifts in a North American butterfly assemblage. Journal of Animal Ecology, 00, 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1111/1365-2656.14132

    Fowler, J. and S. Droegge. 2020. Pollen Specialist Bees of the Eastern United States. https://jarrodfowler.com/specialist_bees.html

    Related

    Hosting butterflies

    The Kiss Principle–Winter Sowing 101

    Want to help Monarchs? Plant Swamp Milkweed!

    By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener in Training

    My 2023 garden gave me a front row seat for observing the monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) lifecycle. Two monarch caterpillars fed on my garden’s swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) lower leaves for about 10-12 days.  I was very concerned when one started a long journey across the 10-foot-long patio and then climbed 10 feet up the house wall to make its chrysalis just under the eaves! I was relieved to read that monarch caterpillars typically do leave their host plant to make their chrysalis elsewhere just in case there are younger caterpillar instars feeding on the same plant. It would be tragic if their chrysalis came crashing down as another caterpillar feeds on the leaf from which it is suspended!

    One of the two caterpillars in my garden last year feasting on swamp milkweed on August 8. By August 13, many more swamp milkweed leaves at been eaten (right)

    I expectantly watched the “eaves” chrysalis daily and was rewarded on September 5th when the green and gold flecked chrysalis became more translucent with visible orange and black inside. An adult male, identified by the two dots on its hindwings (pheromone patches), emerged later that day.

    One monarch caterpillar travelled across the patio and climbed up the house wall to make its chrysalis just under the eaves on August 17 (left). On September 5, the chrysalis became translucent, and the butterfly emerged. It dried its wings for a few hours (centre). Once it opened its wings, I could identify it as a male by the two pheromone patches on its hindwings (right).

    I never saw the second caterpillar leave the swamp milkweed host plant but discovered its chrysalis suspended from the leaves of savannah grass (Sorghastrum nutans) one day.

    Swamp milkweed is a common species in Ontario, usually found in wetlands, wet roadsides, floodplains and wet meadows, but looks beautiful in the garden with its upright stature and slender leaves. Its flowers also bloom for a long time and are floral and vanilla scented. It grows quite tall and maintains its structure well into the winter months to provide winter garden interest.

    Swamp milkweed is a better choice for the garden than common milkweed (A. syriaca) which is not recommended for small gardens due to its rhizomatous aggressive spreading nature. Although butterfly milkweed (A. tuberosa) is a great nectar plant it is also a less desirable monarch caterpillar food due to its hairier leaves and lower protein content (UNC Charlotte Institute 2022). Both swamp and common milkweed averaged the highest number of eggs laid by female adult monarch butterflies in a study that evaluated the attractiveness of nine milkweed species common to Iowa (Pocius et al. 2018).

    Typical habitat for swamp milkweed in the wild, but “it is fairly drought tolerant and will thrive in drier areas once established” (Gray and Booth 2024) (left). A 2-year-old swamp milkweed plant in my dry, sandy garden (right).

    Well-intentioned people hope to increase the monarch population by home-rearing monarchs. However, an analysis of over 135,000 monarch observations at 403 annual butterfly count locations across the species’ large summer range[1] compared population numbers in 1993 to those from 2018 and found that although some areas had population decreases, overall summer monarch population numbers in North America are relatively stable i.e., reproduction in summer is compensating for losses at wintering grounds in Mexico (Crossley 2022).

    A naturally occurring parasite (Ophryocystis electroscirrha) adversely affects how well monarchs fly as well as their migration survival. It has increased in the last 15 years, raising concerns that parasite transmission is decreasing winter colony populations (Majewska et al., 2021). The Xerces Society has published a joint statement against the release of purchased or mass-reared monarchs by backyard and commercial breeders. If you are raising small numbers of wild-collected monarch eggs and larvae for personal enjoyment, education, or as part of citizen science project they encourage you to follow protocols for safe rearing and collect data on your reared monarchs for programs such as the Monarch Larva Monitoring Project and Monarch Health.

    Although the research is not definitive, I recommend letting nature take its course and simply providing for the monarch caterpillar’s habitat needs by planting host plants, particularly swamp milkweed, in your garden.  This spring I planted two more patches of swamp milkweed plants in my garden. I can’t wait to observe the monarch caterpillar drama that unfolds this summer!


    [1] The NA monarch breeding range spans nearly the entire United States and southern Canada. Butterfly counts by citizen scientists are held between July 1 and August 31.  Only data with at least 5 years of Monarch observations over a 10-year period were used in the Crossley (2022) analysis. An average of 25 butterfly counts are held annually in southern Ontario. Each count covers a 24-kilometer diameter circle. Last year I participated in my first count in Haliburton, Ontario.

    Tips for growing swamp milkweed in your garden

    • If space allows, plant a group of 3 to 5 plants so pollinators can more easily find the flowers. It can grow in sand, loam or clay and prefers full sun.
    • You can grow your own seedlings by winter sowing or purchase seedlings from Ontario native plant nurseries.
    • Water consistently during the first year so swamp milkweed can build roots to support flowering in year 2.
    • Remove seed heads before seed pods open if you want to control the number of volunteer seedlings.
    • Swamp milkweed is not palatable to deer.

    References

    Crossley, M.S., T.D. Meehan, M.D. Moran, J. Glassberg, W.E. Snyder, A.K. Davis. 2022. Opposing global change drivers counterbalance trends in breeding North American monarch butterflies. Global Change Biology https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/gcb.16282

    Gray, R. and S. Booth. 2024. The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region. Firefly Books. 352 pp.

    Marinelli, J. 2024. Rethinking Monarchs: Does the Beloved Butterfly Need Our Help? Yale Environment 360, Yale School of the Environment. https://e360.yale.edu/features/monarch-butterflies-milkweed-home-breeders

    Majewska, A. A., Davis, A. K., Altizer, S., & Roode, J. C. (2021). Parasite dynamics in North American monarchs predicted by host density and seasonal migratory culling. Journal of Animal Ecology, 2022, 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/1365-2656.13678

    Pocius, V.M., J.M. Pleasants, D.M. Debinski, K.G. Bidne, R.L. Hellmich, S.P. Bradbury, and S.L. Blodgett. 2018. Monarch Butterflies Show Differential Utilization of Nine Midwestern Milkweed Species. Front. Ecol. Evol., 24 October 2018 https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/ecology-and-evolution/articles/10.3389/fevo.2018.00169/full

    UNC Charlotte Institute. 2022. Milkweeds for Monarchs? The Answer isn’t so simple. https://ui.charlotte.edu/story/milkweed-monarchs-answer-isne28099t-so-simple/

    Related

    The Kiss Principle—Winter Sowing 101 https://peterboroughmastergardeners.com/2022/12/26/the-kiss-principle-winter-sowing-101/
     

    Annuals in a Pollinator Garden?

    by Laura Gardner, Master Gardener

    If you’re thinking of creating a pollinator garden with native perennial plants, there will be a period where your space will be rather underwhelming or undeveloped.

    There is a saying, “first year they sleep, second year they creep, and third year they leap.” In the first year of their growth, many native plants focus channeling their energy into root development instead of flowering. It is important to consider other ways to increase floral resources for pollinators while you wait for these plants to grow.

    Consider adding a few native species that are short-lived annuals or biennials—either potted plants or directly sown seed. If started early in the spring, Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), for example, will bloom in the first year. It usually produces enough seed to ensure future generations.

    Spotted Horsemint (Monarda punctata) and Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) are a couple of others that will also bloom the first year when started early. Near-native annual sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are another great choice for new pollinator gardens. An important consideration for choosing annual sunflowers is to make sure that they are not pollenless types.

    That said, there really are not a whole lot of native annual species that you can add. To help fill in the gap, it is possible to consider some non-native annuals. An aspect of this that is concerning is whether these plants provide adequate nectar and/or pollen to pollinators.

    Many annuals have been bred for size, colour, vigour, and length of bloom period and not so much for their nectar and pollen production. When I visit a garden centre, I pay attention to see if there are any insects visiting the plants. I usually don’t see a whole lot of activity. Of course, this is anecdotal, so what does the research say?

    From my cursory reading, the research is a bit uneven. A UK study in 2017 found that most ornamental flowering plants found in garden centres were unattractive to pollinators.[i]

    Another US study that looked at a select group of annuals found that while native plants were superior overall, there were some non-native annuals that could be important forage for pollinators. It was found that in comparison with Zinnia, Marigold (Tagetes), Lantana, and Starcluster (Pentas), Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) was the top performer. In particular, the cultivars “Frosty Knight” and “Snow Princess” showed the greatest diversity and abundance of pollinators compared to the other Lobularia types as well as the other species.[ii]

    This year I planted some Lobularia near my vegetable garden in the hopes of attracting beneficial parasitic wasps. The adult wasps will seek out the nectar from the flowers and look for caterpillars on my Brassicas for their young.

    Image source: “”Sweet Alyssum” by Mustang Joe is marked with CC0 1.0. To view the terms, visit https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/?ref=openverse.

    Another more recent study from June of this year also found that while the native plants in the study were visited more by pollinators than the non-native plants, there were still some desirable non-native annuals. Specifically, Begonia and Impatiens were visited more frequently by pollinators than Pansy, Petunia, New Guinea Impatiens, and Geranium.

    Similar to the previously mentioned study, these researchers found that there was variability between cultivars of a species. Of the cultivars, the four most visited were Begonia ‘Cocktail Brandy’, Begonia ‘Ambassador Rose Blush’, Impatiens ‘Accent Coral’, and Impatiens ‘Super Elfin XP White.’[iii]

    Now, an important question that comes out of this is whether these plants provide quality floral resources for pollinators. Pollinator visits to flowers does not necessarily mean that they are benefiting from the resource. More research is needed in this area. Until then, we can make a few reasonable annual plant choices to help in the interim while the other plants in our new pollinator gardens mature.


    [i] Garbuzov, Mihail & Alton, Karin & Ratnieks, Francis. (2017). Most ornamental plants on sale in garden centres are unattractive to flower-visiting insects. PeerJ. 5. e3066. 10.7717/peerj.3066.

    [ii] E Erickson, S Adam, L Russo, V Wojcik, H M Patch, C M Grozinger, More Than Meets the Eye? The Role of Annual Ornamental Flowers in Supporting Pollinators, Environmental Entomology, Volume 49, Issue 1, February 2020, Pages 178–188, https://doi.org/10.1093/ee/nvz133

    [iii] David Smitley, Colin Oneil, Erica Hotchkiss, Erik Runkle, Jared Studyvin, Evaluation of the most popular annual flowers sold in the United States and Europe indicates low visitation rates by pollinators and large variation among cultivars, Journal of Economic Entomology, Volume 117, Issue 3, June 2024, Pages 1057–1070, https://doi.org/10.1093/jee/toae084

    Book Review – The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

    by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

    Wow. What a pleasure to finally see this book in print. Written by two very knowledgeable Ontario gardeners — Rick Gray and Shaun Booth — this is the native plant gardening resource I wish I had more than 5 years ago when I started incorporating native plants in my garden.

    Focused specifically on the Southern Great Lakes Region, it’s an all-in-one, easy to use resource for those interested in plants that not only look wonderful but fulfill a critical role in our gardens in supporting wildlife,  birds, and pollinators like butterflies, moths, bees, and insects.

    It reminds me of an encyclopedia, with a full page spread on each native plant (and there’s over 150!). It’s not surprising to me that’s it’s already #4 on the Globe & Mail’s bestseller list.

    The book is visually designed to make it easy to see key information at a glance, using quick guide key icons and two colour-coded bars providing exposure/light and moisture requirements. We’ve been blessed with several excellent native plant books in the past few years, but I appreciated several unique elements I hadn’t seen before – numerous appendices (matching soil types, seed collection and preparation, propagation, and butterflies and their host plants), as well as each plant’s Ontario’s Species at Risk status.

    You’ll understand what each plant needs to thrive, how big they will get, and how to make more plants to share with your friends!

    Sample spread page

    As a Peterborough Master Gardener I have long been engaged in two Facebook groups – the Ontario Native Plant Gardening group (started by Shaun) and the Master Gardeners of Ontario group (where I am an admin and moderator). I remember clearly in May 2023 Rick trying to gauge interest from members on their proposed native plant book, and the incredibly positive response that they received. So full disclosure – I knew I was going to love this book before it was ever published.

    The authors explain why the plants are organized by botanical/Latin name, which is important because common names can vary by region. However, if you only know the common name you can always search using the alphabetical index at the back of the book.

    Essentially, each entry is a ‘checklist in a page’ on what you need to grow the plant. There are lots of photos (whole plant, leaves, flowers, fruiting bodies), a detailed description, easy to see symbols (the Quick Guide), information on the USDA Hardiness Zone, lifespan, propagation, and wildlife/pollinator value.  

    Skill levels are also mentioned but don’t be alarmed – most are listed as beginner, but there are certainly a few native plants that are a bit more challenging to grow and propagate.

    Table of Contents plus shameless plug for my wonderful local, independent bookstore where I ordered the book.

    I appreciate that in the introductory chapters the authors clearly explain things such as:

    • What is a native plant?
    • Aggressive vs invasive
    • Origin of the term weed
    • Nativar vs cultivar
    • Value of native plants

    The authors clearly have a good sense of humour – there are pages titled “How to use this book”, “A coneflower by any other name”, “Fifty shades of…shade” and my favourite “2b or not 2b” (on the rationale for using USDA Hardiness zones). I loved the section on propagation and codes as I’m actively trying to grow more native plant material in my area.

    I have to say that as a seasoned gardener I was surprised to see Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower) is not in the book (not native to most of this region but often sold as a native apparently) and Agastache foeniculum (Anise hyssop) is one that is included specifically because it is non-native to Ontario (it’s a western prairie plant). Oops! I have both in my garden north of Peterborough.

    Was anything missing? Technically no, as the authors were clear that this was not a garden design book. Perhaps after putting out Vol. 2 (the other 150+ plants I know they wanted to include), they’ll consider something on understanding planting density and creating root competition, which I am learning is different to conventional perennials, and good plant pairings (which native plants support others).

    One quick comment I will add is that native plants are wonderful once they are established, so you may need to do a bit of watering that first year, but after that they need no watering or fertilizing.

    If you’re interested in hearing about how this book came to be check out Rick’s Native Plant Gardener website.

    This book is perfect for reading at home (my husband gave me a quick quiz contest this afternoon on the Latin names) or taking with you to your local nursery as you search for native plants to add to your garden. Having trouble finding these plants? The Halton Region Master Gardeners maintain a dynamic map listing native plant nurseries around the province. Check it out!

    The bottom line – a wonderful addition to my garden library, and to anyone interested in incorporating more native plants in their Ontario gardens.

    __________________________________________________________________________

    The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

    By Rick Gray and Shaun Booth
    Publisher: ‎Firefly Books, 2024
    Paperback‏:‎ 352 pages ISBN-10: 0-2281-0460-2
    Price: C$45.00; available through local booksellers and larger book companies

    About the Authors

    Rick Gray (The Native Plant Gardener) has more than 300 species of native plants in his garden in southwestern Ontario and provides native plant garden design services.

    Shaun Booth runs In Our Nature, an ecological garden design business, and launched the Ontario Native Plant Gardening group on Facebook.

    Want More Information?

    Many wonderful books on native plant gardening and naturalization have been published in the past few years – anything by Lorraine Johnson is a great complement to this book, and I love Piet Oudolf’s work (although he doesn’t always use native plants).

    Dr Linda Chalker-Scott (and the Garden Professors blog on Facebook) is a great source of good, solid scientific information on gardeners keen to avoid the misinformation often seen on social media.

    And if you’re on Facebook, please follow both the Master Gardeners of Ontario and Ontario Native Plant Gardening groups.

    Other Native Plant Blog Posts By Me

    A Few of My Favourite Native Plants

    Native Ontario Goldenrods for Your Garden

    Why Do We Garden?

    Ditch Lilies – A Cautionary Tale

    The KISS Principle – Winter Sowing 101

    5 Simple New Year’s Resolutions for Gardeners

    by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

    As this year ends, I’m offering a few New Year’s resolutions for gardeners for 2024. If you want more of a challenge, the Chicago Botanic Garden offers 50.

    Add Native Plants To Your Garden

    • We’re all seeing the effects of climate change on our gardens.
    • Native plants adapt more readily to stressful and changing weather patterns, such as prolonged droughts or winter cold snaps, than hybrids and non-natives often seen in our nurseries.
    • Native plants help sustain beneficial insects and bird populations because they attract native pollinators and birds that might not be drawn to non-natives.
    • Create less work for you, as native plants tend to be lower maintenance than non-native ones.
    • The Native Conservancy of Canada offers some suggestions to get you started, or consult with your local Master Gardener group or Horticultural Society.
    Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis

    Start A Compost Bin

    • Composting helps keep waste out of landfill by collecting and processing organics into material that can be used to create nutrient-rich compost used to feed and nourish soil.
    • Canadian Living offers a simple outline, as shared by Ed Begley  Jr.
    • Or more here from the Thames Region Ecological Association, including troubleshooting issues.
    Compost bin

    Grow More Of Your Own Food

    • The pandemic has highlighted how our agricultural systems are vulnerable to global shocks. Issues with supply chains, migrant workers, transport, trade and border closures have resulted in some foods being in short supply or prices going up (while quality goes down).
    • Insects do all the hard work, and all pollinators benefit.
    • Gardening provides benefits for your wallet, your nutrition, and reduces your environmental footprint. By growing your own food (either from seeds or small plants), your food is automatically more sustainable simply because you are doing it onsite or in a community garden. If you control the ‘inputs’ and do it well, you can save a lot of money.
    • Ultimately there is nothing more rewarding than planting and maintaining your own vegetable garden and harvesting (and sharing) your results. And we all know how much better homegrown produce tastes versus conventional produce at the grocery store. If you have too much produce, then you can just share the love with others!
    • Royal City Nursery in Guelph offers 8 Reasons to Start Growing Your Own Food from Seed
    Creating a vegetable garden

    Continuous Learning

    • Do what you love but keep on top of what’s trending in garden design to see if anything sparks your interest.
    • Keep track of what’s working and what’s not by documenting your garden happenings in a journal.
    • Expand your garden library and treat yourself to a new gardening book.
    • There are so many amazing (and free) garden webinars available now – learn from the experts.
    • Some of my favourite bloggers – The Impatient Gardener (in Wisconsin, similar climate to us), The Empress of Dirt (Ontario), Niki Jabbour (Halifax), The Laidback Gardener (Montreal), and Garden Myths (Robert Pavlis in Guelph, Ontario).
    Online learning is a great opportunity

    Reduce Your Use Of Plastic

    • Plastic is a major component in the garden, from plastic plant pots and seed trays to watering cans, and compost bins. Most plastic gardening equipment will end up in landfills, where plastic pots alone can take up to 500 years to decompose.
    • There are a few easy swaps you can make in going plastic-free: Many of us want to use less plastic in the garden, from plant labels to watering cans, tools, plant pots and the sheeting used to suppress weeds. Buying (and therefore using) less plastic will not only reduce your plastic footprint but also sends a message to manufacturers that gardeners want alternatives to plastic (especially single-use plastic).
    • Try to find biodegradable pots that made from natural materials such as coir, bamboo, wood chips, or seaweed (or commit to using your plastic pots year after year).
    • If you use plastic string, make the swap for a natural jute or hemp, and protect your fruits and vegetables with metal mesh instead of plastic netting – it lasts for years.
    Find alternatives to plastic pots, or commit to using (and reusing them) for many years

    Happy gardening dreams until we can get out into our gardens again….

    Native Ontario Goldenrods for Your Garden

    by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

    The burst of bright yellow in our late summer gardens and surrounding countryside heralds the blooming of our iconic native goldenrods. Although there are more than 25 goldenrods native to Ontario, most people are familiar with Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis), which is likely the tall one you see as you are out driving.

    I have lots of Canada Goldenrod in the naturalized back of my garden, but I also call it my garden thug, because it’s very happy there and trying to take over the world (or at least my backyard). First it outcompeted my New England Asters, and then started crowding out my newer planted trees.

    So I started exploring other, more well-behaved goldenrods to add to my garden that still bring all the benefits of this lovely plant, including acting as important nectar and pollen sources for many specialist pollinators and host plants for many moth and butterfly caterpillars. Goldenrods are important late season fuel for migrating butterflies (like monarchs) and our bumblebees.

    Here are 3 goldenrods that you should be able to find at native plant nurseries (and maybe eventually in our regular nurseries) that I am experimenting with in my garden.

    Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)

    I first saw this goldenrod in a local provincial park and fell in love with it because it thrives in shade/part shade! It can take fairly dry conditions and will grow up to 3 feet high. I’m told if it’s happy it will spread nicely by rhizomes and seed. The name refers to the “zigzaggy” form of the stems. Added bonus? It’s fragrant.

    Photo credit: Kirsten Johnson

    Bluestem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)

    Another winner in my book (before it’s even flowered) because it also brightens up shade gardens, although this one prefers moister soils. Bluestem Goldenrod has graceful, arching stems and bright yellow flowers and can reach 3 feet tall – the name comes from the purplish stems. It will colonize over time by self seeding. Also known as Wreath Goldenrod.

    Photo credit: Tom Feild

    Stiff Goldenrod (Solidago rigida)

    This one’s a sun lover and can reach 5 feet; I’m trying it in my front garden bed with my New England Asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum) and false sunflowers (Heliopsis helianthoides) because it needs similar height plants to avoid floppiness. Unlike the bluestem goldenrod, this one is upright and has large oval leaves and a cluster of yellow flowers at the top of the stems.

    Photo credit: Dan Mullen

    The City of Toronto’s LiveGreen initiative has some excellent additional information on various other goldenrods here. There is one to meet whatever garden conditions (sun/shade; dry/wet etc) you might have. You can also grow some in containers!

    For those interested in more information on identifying and learning about goldenrods here are a few resources:

    Ontario Wildflowers – Goldenrods Group

    Ontario Wildflowers – Learn the Goldenrods

    Goldenrods

    Native Goldenrods for Ontario Gardens

    So what new goldenrods will you try in YOUR garden?

    Do Goldenrods Cause Hay Fever?

    And finally (because we’re always asked this question as soon as fall hay fever starts) no, goldenrods do not cause hay fever. Their pollen is far too heavy to be blown around in the wind – the real culprit is Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia) which is easily blown around by the wind and while native, will never find a place in our garden (my husband gets hay fever). NOTE: yes I acknowledge that some people are allergic to goldenrod but they have to literally stand beside them to get the pollen on them). I love what Horticulture Magazine has to say

    So why do we blame goldenrod instead of ragweed? Probably because goldenrod flowers are so showy. Ragweed’s green flowers are inconspicuous. It makes sense that people suffering from allergies suspect the plant that they can see is in full, abundant bloom.

    Horticulture Magazine

    Like Moths to a Flame – Rethinking Outdoor Lighting in Your Garden

    by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

    A few weeks ago, the incomparable Lorraine Johnson spoke at my local horticultural society. She summarized four key actions gardeners could do to help our pollinators, and the last one stuck out for me — reduce/reconsider outdoor lighting (see her full list of actions at the bottom of the blog).

    I thought, what does outdoor lighting around my house or garden have to do with pollinators? I know that the presence of lighting (or even more importantly, light frequency) is disruptive for migrating birds and nesting sea turtles, but for pollinators in my garden?

    However, what I’ve learned in my research is that artificial lighting at night (aka ALAN) poses a hazard to nocturnal pollinators and prevents proper navigation, reproduction, and their ability to find food.

    This really cool graphic (from Kenilworth Park and Aquatic Gardens in Washington DC) shows some examples of day and night pollinators.

    Why is it a problem?

    Use of ALAN has rapidly spread around the globe over the past few decades. This 2021 Nature Communications journal article states increasing evidence that ALAN adversely affects the behaviour, physiology, and survival of animals and plants, ultimately leading to a significant decline in their abundance and diversity.

    This 2020 Biological Conservation journal article says that although habitat loss, pesticide use, invasive species, climate change all play a role in insect decline, ALAN is another important—but often overlooked—bringer of the “insect apocalypse”.

    A Nature journal article back in 2017 also sounded the alarm, showing that in ALAN plant–pollinator communities, nocturnal visits to plants were reduced by 62% compared to dark areas.

    This UK Royal Horticultural Society article lists some of the effects of ALAN, not just on pollinators but all wildlife:

    • Nocturnal insects (including many moths) who navigate using natural light sources (like the moon) are disoriented by ALAN (although research is now indicating that ALAN disrupts circadian rhythms in both nocturnal and diurnal animals).
    • Security lights appear to temporarily blind some animals and may even attract them (for example, frogs – I have seen this in my backyard near my pond).
    • Birds are disturbed from sleep by sudden lighting and can begin singing before dawn (robins especially seem sensitive to light). Birds that start migration flights at night can become disoriented.
    • In ALAN areas, shorter periods of nighttime darkness means less time for foraging/hunting for crepuscular (dawn/dusk) or nocturnal species.
    • ALAN is thought to be partly to blame for the decline of fireflies/glow worms; the females emit low, greenish light to attract mates and even low level ‘skyglow’ from distant light sources such as floodlit playing fields or towns will lessen their breeding success.

    The type (frequency) of light seems to affect species differently. For example, research indicates that LEDs seem to attract more moths and flies, but fewer beetles than sodium lamps. And LEDs with cool white light (blue end of the spectrum) attract more insects than warm white ones. As a general rule insects are more sensitive or attracted to short-wavelength (UV, blue and green) than long-wavelength (orange, red and infra-red) light.

    Cecropia moth (Hyalophora cecropia)

    So what can gardeners do?

    While ALAN has become a trendy part of our outdoor living spaces, consider whether you really need it, or modify it to minimize its impact. In my back garden I definitely need some path lighting for visiting guests, but I make sure it’s shielded lighting that is on a motion sensor so it’s only on for a short time. The International Dark-Sky Association has some great information on keeping our skies dark, including using shielded light fixtures that minimize glare, light trespass, and skyglow.

    Besides, a garden can be just as magical a place enjoyed in moonlight or simply with the aid of a flashlight! And if you minimize ALAN you might just see more fireflies/glow worms in your garden, like I do (hint: having a pond or water feature also attracts them).

    Want More Information?

    Moths do the pollinator night shift – and they work harder than daytime insects

    Fatal attraction: how street lights prevent moths from pollinating

    The Darkness Manifesto: On Light Pollution, Night Ecology, and the Ancient Rhythms that Sustain Life by Johan Eklöf (on my to read list)

    Google Lens (free!) for all of your identification needs

    By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

    If you’re outside enjoying the fresh air, and happen across a flower or bird or insect and you’re not sure what you’re looking at, a new feature from Google can help you out.

    Google Lens lets you search what you see. Using a photo, your camera or almost any image, Lens helps you discover visually similar images and related content, gathering results from all over the internet.

    All you need to do is: On your phone, open the Google app and in the search bar, tap Google Lens. Point your camera at the flower to identify the plant. Swipe up to learn about the discovery.

    On Android, Google Lens is likely already built right in — open the Google App or Google Photos app. Tap Discover or tap the Google Lens icon.

    On Apple, Google Lens is part of the Google app — a separate app from using Google on Chrome, Firefox or Safari. Go to the App Store and download/install Google as a unique app if you haven’t already done so.

    When you open the Google App, you’ll see a screen like this with the Lens icon. It’s your window to discovery!

    Last week, I went for a long walk and checked out a lot of the volunteer trees and plants along the rural roadway. Sometimes I wanted to verify an item I thought I already knew, but more often I wanted to determine the name of a common but name-unknown item. Google Lens scored on both fronts. Now if only I could remember all of those names!

    If you have a bug infestation, use Google Lens to identify the bug if you can get it to sit still long enough!

    There’s plenty more you can do with Google Lens, too, including pulling the contact information from business cards, identifying unusual foods and almost anything else. It can also translate words on the screen into other languages, and read them back to you.

    The ability of the app to actually CORRECTLY identify plants and bugs is pretty decent, and will get better over time. It helps to allow Google to use location services, so that it’s not searching through the entire rain forest to determine the name of the plant in your neighbourhood. You can also allow Lens access to your photos, so that you can identify items you’ve already taken pictures of.

    Best of all, it’s free and will always be free. Try it!

    Holes in Leaves

    By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

    Several years ago I heard a wonderful talk by Martin Galloway on “Holes in Leaves.” His philosophy was that you can never totally eradicate pests from your gardens, so you should enjoy the beautiful lacing they do to your leaves. At the time, I was skeptical about how I could love holes in leaves and the pests that put them there. However as a Master Gardener, I now understand his perspective and I do try for a balance using safe methods to control pests. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a practice where pests are controlled using environmentally safe and economically sound values. Biological controls like BTK or parasitic nematodes can be used. Barriers such as diatomaceous earth, wood ashes or sticky boards are mechanical control methods as well as hand picking. Cultural methods include plant nutrition, sanitation, planting pest resistant varieties and plant rotation (in the case of vegetables).

    Although we don’t want bad bugs in our garden, we do want the beneficial bugs that are predators and parasites. These include dragonflies and damselflies, lady bugs, lacewings, spiders, wasps and some types of flies.

    Aphids or plant lice are one of the most common pests to attack your plants. They are tiny soft bodied creatures that can be black, red or green in colour. They suck the sap from your leaves, and leave a sticky substance behind. You will often see them in a long line on your stems. Red aphids are common on garden phlox. You can use an insecticidal soap for aphids. Or use a blast of hose water to knock them off your plants.

    Beetles are hard bodied insects that are generally easy to find on your plants. There are many types and they are often named after their plant of choice, like scarlet lily beetle. The most effective method for controlling beetles is hand picking. Look for the striped cucumber beetle inside the blossoms. When handpicking, place a hand under where the beetle is to catch it as they tend to jump when you touch them.

    Caterpillars are another garden pest that are easily spotted. In spring you may find your Hydrangea arborescens has closed, puckered leaves which are holding the common leaftier. You can gently open the leaf and remove and destroy the caterpillar inside or pluck of the entire leaf and squish.

    Slugs and snails are sometimes difficult to find as they like dark damp places and feed at night. But you will know you have them when they are munching on your hosta leaves. Check out Gardens Plus for Dawn’s formula for slugs.

    As we enter the dog days of summer, we are all battling voracious bugs eating our beautiful flowers and vegetables. The healthier your plants are, the less they will suffer from a deluge of bad bugs. That is why it is important that you give your plants the water and nutrients they need to be their best. Good soil health and good fertilizing methods will give you healthier plants.

    Remember that anything you apply to your plants to kill those pests can also hurt pollinators and will be on the vegetables and fruit that you ingest.

    To make your garden less inviting to pests

    1. plant the right plant in the right spot to keep it happy and not stressed
    2. do not overcrowd plants which encourages dampness and pests
    3. diversity in your garden will help with pest control – if there are a variety of plants, specific pests will not take over
    4. keep nitrogen levels moderate as many pests like aphids thrive on plants with high levels of N.
    5. Remove garden litter; if pests are present as they can overwinter there.

    My favourite method of hand picking beetles and slugs and hosing down aphids is no cost and gets you out into your gardens….where you can enjoy your own “Holes in Leaves.”

    For more information on garden pests go to https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems.aspx

    or try https://cdn.dal.ca/content/dam/dalhousie/pdf/agriculture/ExtendedLearning/gardenbox/Managing%20Vegetable%20Pests_Garden%20Box_Online.pdf