Category Archives: Garden Design

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Garden Design, Native Plants

Diversity: One Earth, Many Ways to Grow

Leave a comment

By Amanda McIlmoyle, Master Gardener in Training

“Nature does nothing uselessly.”  Aristotle

Diversity is one of nature’s greatest strengths. Every organism, from the smallest insect to the largest tree, plays a unique role in the overall health of a garden. Nature is purposeful, deeply connected, and rewards us with incredible beauty when we provide our plants with the environment they need to thrive.

There are countless ways to think about diversity in the garden. From the types of plants we select, the wildlife that populates them, to the gardening practices that encourage a healthy microbiome in our soil, the topic of diversity is vast.  As gardeners, we spend a great deal of time planning our spaces to make them uniquely our own. However, when people think about diversity, their focus often shifts to visual diversity. While aesthetics are absolutely important, as our spaces are, after all, a reflection of our personality and preferences, the visual piece is just one part of a much larger puzzle. Let’s look beyond the visual appeal for a moment and explore a handful of other ways diversity truly matters.

Why Diversity Matters:

  • A diverse garden supports a healthy soil microbiome.  Diversity helps manage harmful pathogens, it improves nutrient cycling and feeds the beneficial organisms in the soil. 
  • Diversity also improves the soil structure.  A variety of plant root systems can help create channels within the soil that improve the flow of water and oxygen while providing different habitats and food sources for soil organisms.
  • Diversity in the garden also supports native pollinators, such as bees, butterflies and even beetles, wasps and hummingbirds along with all sorts of other beneficial wildlife.  A variety of plants provides these vital creatures, with a continuous supply of nutrients and areas for shelter.

How Do We Work Towards Diversity:  

  • Incorporate native plants into your garden, as these provide food and shelter for local wildlife while also supporting pollinators and wildlife.  Its important to become familiar with the native plants in your specific area as these plants thrive in local growing conditions along with local ecosystem. 
  • Choose a variety of plants with different shapes, sizes and bloom times to provide broader options of food sources and shelter for pollinators and wildlife throughout each growing season.   
  • Avoid harmful chemicals, as much as possible as they can alter the health of the soil and negatively impact the beneficial bugs in the garden. 
  • Leave spent foliage in the fall as dead stalks, mounds of leaves or dead flower heads can provide food and shelter to wildlife and pollinators during the colder months. 

Nature provides us with what we need to not only survive but to also thrive.  In a natural environment, there is a continuous exchange amongst producers (organisms that create their own food), consumers (all living things that rely on producers for food) and the decomposers (organisms that turn waste back into essential nutrients that feed producers). 

As gardeners, we act as environmental stewards; whether consciously or unconsciously, through the basic act of gardening.   For me, it doesn’t matter if your garden consists of a handful of houseplants , containers on a balcony,  an assortment of perennials or natives or expansive fields as part of the larger farming community.  Simply by gardening, we have an opportunity to contribute to the health and diversity of our planet. 

In short, diversity matters!

Resources

Bird-Friendly Gardens: Supporting Bird Habitat in Every Season

5 Reasons to Grow a Diverse Garden

Why is Plant Diversity Important for a Garden?

Pollinator Garden: A Toronto Master Gardeners Guide

Books, Dreams, Garden Design, Perennials

As Good as it Gets!

Leave a comment

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener

We are into the dog days of summer, too hot to do much actual gardening, but a good time to enjoy the garden.

As you wander through your garden, remember to stop and smell the roses, take note of what brings a smile to your face.  Where have you found success in the garden? What have you enjoyed?  

Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica), another native, also put on a great show this spring.

So far, so good in my garden!  Spring was slow to come but the cool and wet weather allowed spring flowering bulbs and shrubs to hold onto their petals for an extended period. Often, there is a hot spell that puts a too quick end to those blossoms that took months to arrive. This year was different with daffodils, tulips, and alliums lasting for weeks and weeks. From the early forsythias, the magnolias, to the treasured native serviceberry, lilacs, and all that follows, it was a spectacular show of spring flowers.

Red Mohican allium in the afternoon sun

Sicilian Honey garlic (Allium siculum) is one of my favourite bulbs. I planted several in fall 2024 but was disappointed when only small flowers with weak stems emerged in their first season. Somewhat discouraged, but still enamoured with the flower, I planted a few more bulbs in the fall of 2025. This spring all of the bulbs put on a good show. Those in the second year had stronger, sturdier stems with bigger flowers and the first year bulbs were equally pleasing.  I also splurged on some less common bulbs: hair allium (Allium vineale ‘Hair’) – weird, disheveled, and late flowering; Schubertii allium (Allium shubertii) – perfect for dried flower interest long after the flowers have faded, and a couple of Red Mohican allium (Allium amethystinum) – big and bold.

Coral Charm Peony

There were a few days of hot weather when the peonies opened up but the heat didn’t last and they didn’t get flattened by a hard, strong rainstorm. Coral Charm is my current favourite peony, I wait every spring for it to bloom and when it does, I stop by and admire it several times a day. I’ve got mine planted beside Sun King Golden Spikenard (Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’), a perfect contrast that makes each more special.  Another favourite is the classic Sarah Bernhardt, I can’t help but stick my nose into the luscious soft petals when they appear. And of course, the Itoh peonies!

A few years ago I was inspired by a clematis grower who claimed there was always room for more clematis anywhere in the garden, especially at the base of trees where they could scramble up and around the trunk and in through the branches. I found a few clematis at an end of season sale – sadly, all unnamed – and planted them as suggested, at the base of a few trees. The tree flowers first, then gets decorated once again when it’s time for the clematis to bloom. This worked particularly well with a lilac coloured clematis that wound its way up through the purple red leaves of a crabapple (Malus ‘Thunderchild’). Blossoms face downward, they nod happily  amongst the small purple crab apples. It’s an exquisite combination. A native clematis, Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana) is fragrant, quick growing and perfect to scramble up the leafless branches of a  suffering Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa; the tree lost a large limb in the ice storm, then suffered through the cold winter. There’s new growth at the base and on one of the limbs; for now, the clematis has a built in trellis until I decide whether the tree will remain.)

Unnamed clematis scrambling up ‘Thunderchild’ crab-apple

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Amber Jubilee’) has been a thing of beauty since it first started to leaf out. The leaves emerge bright green, with a tinge of amber, then shifting to orange and gold before the small white blossoms appear on previous years’ growth. The blossoms turn red and all the while there is a happy crowd of pollinators buzzing around. Equally appealing and another native, is the serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) . Early in July it was a great source of food for birds, there are none left for us, but we admire it daily since it first showed its welcome white blossoms in early spring. It will bring another flush of colour in the fall.

Unnamed clematis growing on an arbour

The show is not over, the daylilies are here, dahlias are just beginning to bud out and they will take centre-stage right through October or until a very hard frost. Amongst them and scattered throughout the garden, are the nodding stems of Verbena (Verbena bonariensis ). These are an annual but self-seed from one year to the next. I take care not to disturb the soil where they were planted the previous year and then transplant the seedlings throughout the garden once the stems and stalks of the tulips and daffodils are ready to be cleared away. Enjoy it all!

Dahlia and verbena

A few suggestions for reading in the garden:

The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Regions by Rick Gray and Shawn Booth

The Garden Against Time: In Search of a Common Paradise by Olivia Laing

RHS The Creative Gardener: Inspiration and Advice to Create the Space You Want by Adam Frost

Garden Design, Health, New Gardens, Seniors, Tools

Gardening as We Age – Addressing Stretching and Mobility Issues

1 Comment

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

WeIl I don’t know about you, but I am starting to feel my age. I used to be out in our gardens all day long, moving soil and rocks, planting garden beds, moving perennials, and weeding and watering to my heart’s content.

I did a Master Gardener blog about the importance of stretching before gardening (at any age) back in 2021 and since then I have been modifying my activities by stretching ahead of time and changing my tasks every 25 minutes (with a stretch break of 5 minutes). No more 8 hour marathons of weeding in the garden!

So I thought I would follow up with another blog for senior gardeners (or anyone with mobility issues) to look at gardening techniques that focus on minimizing bending and kneeling by using raised beds (2-4 ft high), taking advantage of vertical planters and structures, and employing container gardening.

We should also examine the environment —using lightweight, ergonomic tools with long handles, focusing on creating wide/smooth paths for walkers or wheelchairs, and advising people on low-maintenance but hardy plants.

Some Key Strategies for Mobility-Friendly Gardening

Raised Beds and Containers

Build or purchase raised beds, ideally 24–36 inches high, to eliminate the need to bend or kneel. These should be no more than 4 feet wide so that the centre can be reached from either side.

Use pots for container gardening but place them on casters so they can be moved around easily or create a raised area (like a table) that the containers can sit on. For wheelchair access make sure to design beds with clearance underneath for wheelchair access, typically 22 inches wide and 30 inches high.

Vertical Gardening

Use trellises, wall planters, and hanging baskets to allow plants to be available at eye level. Examples of climbing plants to consider are sweet peas or vegetables like cucumbers or beans.

Accessible Layouts

Ensure paths are wide, flat, and made of stable materials like smooth pavers or packed gravel for wheelchairs or walkers.

Ergonomic Tools

Ergonomic garden tools help people with mobility issues by reducing strain on joints, backs, and wrists through angled grips, extended handles, and lightweight designs. Use tools with long, padded, or curved handles to reduce strain on wrists and backs. There are so many on the market nowadays.

Watering Plants

Install drip irrigation systems or other watering options to reduce the need to carry heavy hoses.

Low-Maintenance Plants

Choose hardy, perennial plants such as that require minimal upkeep.

Sitting and Resting Areas

Incorporate sturdy benches or chairs in shaded areas in your gardens to allow people to take breaks. Provide water for drinking where possible.

Other Resources

Here are links to other Ontario-based resources you might want to explore for ideas and inspiration.

Accessible Gardening — Just Food – Ottawa

Barrier-Free Community Gardening in Waterloo Region (PDF)

Cultivating accessibility in your garden – Blooming Boulevards

A Guide for Making Community Gardens Accessible – Root in Nature

These Ergonomic Gardening Tools Will Get You Back Into the Garden! – Garden Therapy

Gardens are for Everyone – Oregon State University Extension

Accessible gardening and tool lists – University of California/Master Gardeners of Fresno

Accessible gardening toolkit – University of Saskatchewan 

Getting Started with Accessible Gardening – National Center on Health, Physical Activity & Disability

Annuals, Garden Design, Seeds

You Don’t Need a Cut Flower Garden….

Leave a comment

Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

Having fresh cut flowers in your home is something that many gardeners enjoy. They do not however, want the extra work of a dedicated cut flower garden. There is a growing trend towards incorporating cut flower varieties (annuals for the most part) as a block of colour in one’s ornamental garden. Even small numbers of plants can provide an abundance of blooms to enjoy. Most of us have “holes” in our gardens. These blank spots develop for any number of reasons; perhaps some of our other plantings have not reached their mature size; the space is present early in the season and will later be filled in by slower growing species; plants that did not overwinter. Whatever the reason, cut flower varieties can fill the gap providing blooms, texture and colour. The list of potential varieties is endless (consult a good seed resource to see). This blog will attempt to cover a few of the most favorite.

Orlya (Orlya grandiflora)

One of the prettiest, most delicate fillers for late spring and early summer, these dainty bloomers are smothered in a mass of lacy white umbrels. As the flowers fade, the plant forms interesting star shaped seed heads. This plant is a workhorse, the more it is cut, the more it blooms.

I use this plant as an early spring space filler. It is attractive both in the garden as well as the vase. If you permit some go to seed, it self sows and volunteer plants will appear early the following spring that can be grown in place or moved to where you need them.

Amaranthus (A. cruentus and A. caudatus)

Tall and dramatic, coming in many colours and spike types, this plant is remarkably easy to grow. Not surprising as it is a member of the pigweed family!!! There are varieties that grow long colourful tassels (trailing) and varieties that have more upright forms (spike). The tassels/spikes have a velvety texture. Colours can be light brown, green, burgundy and there are even a few mixes. These are warm season annuals that can be started inside 5 weeks before planting out around the same time your dahlias go into the ground.

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Cosmos is one of the most rewarding and easiest cut and come flowers to grow. It has daisy-like blossoms in single or double forms. It is a relatively large plant (36-48″ high) and can be direct sown or started indoors 4 weeks before planting out. This is another warm seasonal annual so take care to plant out well after all threat of frost is past. Cosmos should be pinched (removal of growing tip above third set of true leaves) in order to create a bushier, more floriferous plant.

Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa atropurpurea)

A delightful flower with a horrible name. This is another annual that is equally attractive left in the garden or cut for the vase. A cut and come again plant with an abundance of bloom and a lengthy bloom season. The plant is about 2 ft-3 ft. in height. These flowers last for a very long time in the vase when harvested at the correct stage. Many colours are available. These are cool season annuals that can be started indoors 6 weeks before planting out.

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Everyone’s summertime favorite! Zinnias are a warm seasonal annual that come in many colours and forms. A trend today is towards pastel, ombre effects or green varieties. The big and bright ones are still very popular. The flower itself can be single or double and the plant is quite heat tolerant (a plus in our changing climate). Zinnias are another cut and come again flower with a long vase life. Or if you prefer, an oasis of colour in your late summer garden to which the bees and butterflies come for nectar. Zinnia can be direct sown into the garden or started indoors 4 weeks before planting out.

Spend a little time perusing the seed company sites and try it out.

Resources

https://www.johnnyseeds.com/flowers/

https://www.damseeds.com/pages/flowers

Advice, Dreams, Garden Cleanup, Garden Design, Websites

Gardening Resolutions

Leave a comment

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

We all start January with a list of hopes and plans for the coming year; some of us making resolutions for better nutrition and exercise, or improved habits for work and family. Resolutions are distinct from plans and projects and, when put into practice,  resolutions simply become new habits or routines. Gardeners have endless lists of projects and plans along with many resolutions as they prepare for a new gardening year. As with nutrition and exercise, it’s not easy to develop new habits and to maintain these throughout the year. One of the reasons I decided to become a Master Gardener was to acquire new knowledge and skills and update my habits and routines as a gardener.  I felt I needed a solid commitment to learn and educate, and after almost two years in, I am on the road to changing old habits and learning new ones.

When I moved from a large rural property to a small urban lot, paradoxically garden cleanup became much more complicated. I no longer had a large compost system, and there were bags and bags of leaves and garden waste that neighbours set on the curb every week in the autumn.  My Master Gardener course work helped me understand more about soil composition and why and how much of this garden waste could be used in my own garden.  My resolution was to keep all the leaves for mulch and soil improvement –  I didn’t want to put a single bag out on the curb yet I also wanted a fairly ‘tidy’ garden. After a few years trying different methods, I use my mulching lawnmower and have developed techniques and  habits that allow me to avoid the cumbersome and awkward garden waste bags.

Over the holidays, I’ve taken a casual survey asking for gardening resolutions for 2026. Family and friends –  some experienced gardeners, some new homeowners, along with gardeners interested mostly in vegetables, or in houseplants, in garden design or any other of the many aspects of gardening  – have sent me their thoughts on what they resolve to do as gardeners in 2026. The results aren’t surprising, one friend commented that when she looked over her list, she realized she had made the same resolutions for the last ten years! Making the same resolution year in, year out does not equate with failure, it simply means that it’s an important goal, one that’s important to maintain.

As you glance through this list, I’m sure you’ll nod your head in agreement, there might be a few that you will add to your own list, or even some where you can say it is no longer on a list because it  is without thinking. Generally, with the gardening season still far off, gardeners hope to avoid over consumption, have an interest in native plants and informed gardening.  The following resolutions are pretty straightforward; most are fairly manageable tasks.

  1. Plan garden projects in advance, keep notes of successes and failures.
  2. Prune for shape but also at the right time of year.
  3. Buy only what will get planted right away – and have the space prepared.
  4. Buy only the right plant for the right spot.
  5. Water and fertilize house plants on a regular basis.
  6. Source plant material from Canadian or local growers.
  7. Stay on top of deadheading, particularly to encourage new blooms.
  8. Learn more about growing and pruning clematis (or dahlias, or roses, or fruit trees, or anything else!!)
  9. Buy only what grows in my zone.
  10. More focus on native plants.
  11. More focus on plants to promote pollinators.
  12. Try a few new veggies in the garden.
  13. Fertilize, particularly with compost tea – and keep to a schedule for fertilizing.
  14. Learn more about pest control.
  15. Get better at composting.
  16. Stay on top of goutweed (or other invasives) eradication.

For me, these next two are the most interesting and in some ways, the most challenging:

  • Consider how AI (Artificial Intelligence) may be influencing gardening information or trends and respond accordingly.
  • Make gardening more fun, less work and obligation

References for additional resolutions:

https://www.gardendesign.com/holiday/new-years-resolutions.htm

https://thedailydirt.com/2025/12/26/gardening-resolutions-to-consider-for-2026/

www.toronto.ca/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/9748-tree-pruning-guidelines.pdf

https://www.almanac.com/new-years-resolutions-gardeners

Garden Design, Shrubs & Trees, winter

Utilizing Tree Bark in Garden Design

Leave a comment

By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

We are now on the uphill climb towards increasing daylength.  However, the bleakness of the season will be with us for some time yet. Increasing winter interest by incorporating trees and shrubs with unique bark is one way of dealing with the view.  There are some striking options available to us in this area.

Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum)

This is a small tree that once would not have wintered well here.  With the changing climate, it can now be grown in our area but I should caution that it still prefers a sheltered area and will not tolerate strong wind.  It has a mature height is about 25 feet with a spread of 15 -25 feet.  It’s trunk and limbs remind one of cinnamon sticks and the peeling bark is similar to that of a birch tree.  As a maple, it also has an impressive fall show when leaves turn shades of yellow, red and orange.  As for placement, it will grow in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil.

Striped Maple (Acer pensylvanicum)

This is a native, understory tree in southern Ontario topping out at 30 feet. It prefers partial to full shade in cool, moist, slightly acidic soil.  The bark is distinct with green and white stripes.  One warning however, the tree is also known as “moosewood” as the deer and moose love to browse on the twigs.  Young trees should be netted to prevent damage from these critters.

Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata)

This is a large tree growing 60-80 feet in height with a trunk diameter that can reach 1 -2.5 feet.  The bark separates into long plates as the tree ages which loosen from the trunk giving the tree a shaggy appearance.  This tree also produces sweet tasting nuts making the tree popular with squirrels and birds.  Hickory is best grown in moist soil and full sun but can tolerate some shade.  It prefers rich soil and is often found on hillside and in valleys where there is more moisture.  These are long lived trees (200 years).

River Birch (Betula nigra)

With a graceful form and attractive bark, river birch is a deciduous tree frequently used in ornamental plantings. It is a fast-growing shade trees, valued for the colorful exfoliatingbark. River birch is one of the most culturally adaptable and heat tolerant of the birches and a good substitute for white birches. It is also reputed to be more resistant to the birch borer that plagues the white birch.  Another appealing feature is the shimmering contrast when theleaves flutter in the wind, with lower leaf surfaces a different color than the upper surface. A medium to tall tree, growing 60-80 feet at maturity and about 40 wide. Trees typically live 50 -75 years. Although it naturally forms just a single trunk, it is frequently sold in multiple-trunked form with two to five trunks per tree.

Because it is a large tree, river birch makes a wonderful specimen planting for largerproperties. The canopy casts light dappled shade when young but provides medium shade when older. This species is a good choice for low spots and wet soils and should be planted in full sun.  It does well on clay as that type of soil retains moisture well.   It can tolerate dry summers once established.

 “Heritage” is a popular, vigorous cultivar often used as alternatives to white barked birches in landscapes due to its lighter bark color. It has heavily exfoliating bark, with layers of cinnamon, salmon and brown bark peeling back in big sheets to reveal creamy white inner bark. It looks best planted in multi-stemmed clumps.

This is just a smattering of what is available.  Why not spend a cold day searching the internet trees with interesting bark and see what pops up.

Resources

Bark With Bite: How to Utilize Tree Bark in a Garden Design

The Tree Atlas

Shrubs and Trees with Attractive Winter Bark

Sycamore tree in Lindsay, ON

Books, Communication, Dreams, Garden Design, Garden rejuvenation, New Gardens, Perennials, Tools, Vegetable Gardening, Websites

Creating a Garden Journal

1 Comment

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Full confession – I have never kept a garden journal. I have been given one from time to time as a gift, but I’ve never got round to using them.

This winter I’m thinking about finally using one (because my memory isn’t getting any better with age!) and because I’d like to record my gardening experiments in our main perennial beds year over year, as well as my experiences with native plants in my small native plant nursery in Lakefield, Ontario.

Keeping a garden journal is a valuable practice for both novice and experienced gardeners. It helps you document your gardening journey, learn from your experiences, and plan for the future.

So Why Keep a Garden Journal?

To Track Progress – A journal can help document plant growth, flowering times, and harvest yields to see how your garden evolves over time.

Record Weather Conditions – Noting temperature, rainfall, and seasonal changes that affect your plants will help you understand their influence on growth.

For Inspiration – A journal is a great place to document ideas, designs, and observations that inspire your gardening, serving as a creative outlet.

For Improved Planning – Use your past experiences to inform future planting decisions, such as choosing the right plants for specific locations.

Pest and Disease Management – It’s great to keep a record of any pest issues or diseases, along with effective treatments, to reference in the future.

For Budgeting Purposes – Keeping track of expenses related to your gardening supplies and plants allows you to manage your gardening budget effectively.

Some Thoughts on Creating a Garden Journal

I found some great ideas on how to have a successful garden journal.

Choose the Right Format – Decide between a physical notebook, a binder, or a digital platform that suits your preferences. You might want to keep several different journals – one for your vegetable garden, one for seeds etc. It’s up to you.

Include Essential Information – Record planting dates, plant names, care instructions, and observations on growth and health. This allows you to compare information year to year.

Photos – Incorporate photos of your garden at various stages, including bloom times and harvests.

Be Descriptive – Use descriptive language to capture your feelings and thoughts about your garden’s progress and challenges. Think about how your garden makes you feel during different times of the seasons.

Create Seasonal Sections – Consider organizing your journal by seasons or gardening phases (preparation, planting, maintenance, and harvesting) for easier reference.

Set Goals and Then Reflect – Write down your gardening goals for each season and include reflections on what worked well and what didn’t.

Add Design Elements – Include sketches or diagrams of your garden layout. Use colour, stickers, or drawings to make it visually engaging.

Maintain Regular Updates – Set a schedule to update your journal regularly, such as weekly or monthly, to maintain consistency. This is one thing I will have to do in order to successfully use a journal.

Experimentation Section – Dedicate a space to document any new gardening techniques, experiments, or plant varieties you try.

Review and Revise – Regularly review your entries to spot trends and adjust for future growing seasons.

Resources and Inspiration

Toronto & Golden Horseshoe Gardener’s Journal (now Canada Gardener’s Journal)
This journal has been reimagined for gardeners across Canada, providing tools, resources, and tips for successful gardening. Started by Margaret Bennet-Alder to aid Toronto area gardeners, in 2017 she transferred ownership to Helen and Sarah Battersby and now it’s run by Steven Biggs of Food Garden Life. (might make a great Christmas gift?)

Garden Therapy
This site has several articles about the importance of keeping a gardening journal and shares tips.
How to Start Keeping a Garden Journal (and Why You’ll Thank Me)
Keeping a Gardening Journal: Reflecting on Growth and Healing

Lee Valley 10 Year Gardening Journal
A very detailed 10 year perpetual diary, where each diary page is for one day of the year, and each page is divided into 10 sections. There is a diary, a section on gardening techniques, reference material, many charts, and places to record your inventory of perennials, a place to sketch etc.

DIY Garden Journal and Planner
Discusses the importance of a garden journal and provides printable pages and organizing tips. 

Purdue University – County Extension
Consider a garden journal – discusses the benefits of keeping a garden journal and what to include.

Penn State University – County Extension
Offers insights into Keeping a Garden Journal.

The Garden Continuum
Why a Journal is a Gardener’s Best Friend – explains the benefits of and tips for choosing the right format. This last link I found interesting as it explained the benefits of a digital vs hard copy journal.

“A digital journal can offer several advantages. First, it’s easily searchable so you can quickly find information on specific plants, techniques or projects. Second, you can easily add photos and other digital media to your entries, which can help you document your garden’s progress visually. Third, a digital journal can be accessed anywhere and from multiple devices so you can update it from your computer, tablet or phone. 

Writing by hand, however, can be a meditative and reflective experience, and it may help you to connect more deeply with your garden. Additionally, a handwritten journal can serve as a keepsake or heirloom that can be passed down through generations or to the future owners of your home.”

What I learned from my research on starting a garden journal (for this blog) is that you have to think about what YOU want to get out of your journal – inspiration, documentation, templates, a diary…whatever that is. So find a journal (or create your own journal) that meets your needs. If you find a great resource, please share it in the comments!

For now our garden in asleep for the winter, but it doesn’t mean we can’t start our journal and dream of springtime!

Advice, Garden Design, Greenhouses, Herbs, Planting, Vegetable Gardening

Cold Frames – A Mini Greenhouse in Your Garden

Leave a comment

by Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

I’m sipping my coffee on the deck, overlooking my vegetable garden. Everything shows signs of fall. The onions and garlic have been harvested. The green beans are finished for the season and are ready for the compost pile. The zucchini and summer squash are suffering from powdery mildew, and the tomatoes are carrying the last few fruits of the season. Although summer is ending, the fall gardening season is just beginning – and I have a secret weapon: a cold frame.

Why Cold Frames Work

Several leafy green vegetables can survive and even thrive in cooler temperatures. Kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, and spinach produce sugars that lower the freezing point of water in their cells, protecting them from damaging ice crystals. These crops tend to bolt in the heat of summer but thrive in the crisp days of fall. Still, even hardy plants will eventually succumb to our harsh Canadian winters.

That’s where a cold frame comes in – you can significantly extend your growing season with one. Imagine brushing snow off your cold frame in November to harvest fresh kale for a salad!

Cold frame basics (Source: “Large Cold Frame” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0)

What Is a Cold Frame?

A cold frame is a low, bottomless structure with a transparent lid that protects plants from wind and cold. The lid lets sunlight in, while the insulated base traps heat and creates a microclimate that can run several degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Ventilation is key – open the lid on sunny days to prevent overheating and ensure proper airflow.

Cold frames come in various styles depending on budget, materials, and space.

Types of Cold Frames

Traditional Cold Frame
Built from wood with an angled, hinged top – this could use glass, polycarbonate, or heavy plastic. They can be permanent or portable and built with reclaimed or new materials. An old window makes a perfect lid.

Straw Bale Cold Frame
 Stack straw bales to form a frame and cover with windows or plastic sheeting. Straw provides insulation and can be reused or composted in spring.

Hot Bed
 A sunken bed filled with compostable material such as horse manure, straw, or poultry bedding, covered with soil and topped with a cold frame. As the material decomposes, it generates heat, warming the soil below.

Traditional cold frame using wood and an old window (Source:“cold-frame-in-winter” by The Art of Doing Stuff, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Straw bale cold frame (Source: “Quick coldframe, straw bales and old windows” by Irene Kightley, CC BY-SA 2.0 – Flickr)

Need a visual? Watch DIY Cold Frame • Easy How‑to Tutorial with Niki Jabbour to see an easy cold frame build using recycled materials—great for Canadian gardeners. Or for a classic approach, check out How to Build a Cold Frame | This Old House, a clear demo using a salvaged window lid.

Tips for Success

  • Timing is everything: Sow spinach, kale, or lettuce in late August or early September to harvest well into late fall – or even December, depending on snow cover.
  • Ventilation matters: Even on sunny October days, closed frames can overheat. Keep lids open when needed.
  • Spring bonus: In March or April, use your cold frame to start early crops like lettuce or radishes, or to harden off seedlings before planting.

The Quiet Magic of Cold Frames

No matter which style you choose, a cold frame is a valuable addition to any garden. It helps you garden later into the season and gives you a head start in spring.

With one simple structure, you don’t have to say goodbye to your garden when frost arrives. Picture a crisp November morning—brushing snow from the lid and harvesting fresh spinach for breakfast. That’s the quiet magic a cold frame brings to your backyard.

Banner photo “Large Cold Frame With Props” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Garden Design, Perennials

Using Broken Branches as Plant Supports

2 Comments

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Gardeners and municipal services in Peterborough and areas hit by the ice-storm are busy picking up the broken branches and limbs and using them for city compost and recycling programs.

Another use for some of this wood might be found in our own gardens, repurposing them for use as stakes and supports. The timing for the ice storm was perfect; the broken branches are young and supple and without leaves so they can be bent easily and shaped to suit needs. Small branches can be bent or twisted to create low supports for perennials or annuals that become leggy as the season progresses or to prop up flowers as the plants bloom. Heavier and longer branches can be used as poles for teepees in vegetable gardens for beans and peas or for climbers such as sweet peas and clematis.

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-SA-NC

British and European gardeners have historically avoided plastic and metal as garden supports, instead ‘pea sticks’ are the norm. Pea sticks are usually coppiced hazel branches, but any young pliable wood will work.  Birch, lilac, red dogwood, along with oak and maple twigs and branches are at the top of the list, willow is popular as well but it tends to root and sprout – an advantage or disadvantage depending on where and how it is used. In some cases, a branch with lots of twigs and small growth is the best choice as the plant will grow under and over the branches.  In in other instances the small twigs might appear messy and a visual distraction.  When selecting your sticks, it’s important to take into account your garden aesthetic – are you going for the scrambling abundance of a country garden, or the formal structure of a classic retreat? Sarah Raven, a well-known British gardener has taken things a step further and made an effort to use only native wood when creating plant supports for her vegetable gardens.

In the ice-storm clean up, I collected a few branches for use as supports. My sweet pea seedlings are ready to plant outside, they’ll be perfect growing up and around the broken branch of a very special cornus Kousa, a sad loss from the storm. The long stem on the bottom is cut off at a sharp angle to be pushed into the soft spring soil as deep as possible.  The spread of the small twigs and branches will be close to the ground within easy reach of the seedlings planted around the base where they will quickly grow up and through the twigs and branches. Clematis would also do well on this structure and it’s likely strong enough to withstand several seasons. The popular annual mandevilla vine is another good choice as a climber. All add vertical interest to garden design.

My scrambling cotoneaster became too leggy and suffered a lot this winter. It’s now had a hard prune and I am using the cut offs to create small branch cages around some perennials. Yarrow, nepeta, tradescantia, and phlox are good candidates for this simple approach. Four or more long branches, each about 3’ long and with a similar diameter were chosen.  The new spring growth from the cutoffs will soon turn brown so I snipped off the new

growth and twigs, then pushed the thick end of each branch into the soil about 6” from its base, repeating this at the other three corners, to create four points of a box around the plant. The upright ends of the branches are then bent into hoops towards the opposite corner and wound around one another to create a hoop. More support is provided at the front where the plant flops towards the sun. I’ve made the hoop about 2/3 the final height of the plant and should be able to increase the height a bit by untwisting the ends a bit, if necessary.  At the end of the season, I’ll leave the hoops in place if they are sturdy enough for another season or add them to the compost pile.

My technique is very much that of a beginner; I expect I’ll refine things with more practice. Even still, the natural wood hoops are more appealing than  a plastic pole with string around it. In formal gardens in the UK, I have seen cages of plant supports that are works of art in themselves. It all takes time and patience.

References

Sarah Raven, Using Native Wood Structures (Retrieved May 7, 2025)

Types of Woodland Management, (Retrieved May 7, 2025)

Longfield Gardens, DIY Plant Supports, (Retrieved May 9, 2025)

Gardens Illustrated, How to Make your Own Plant Supports and Protection That Are Easy, Cheap and Full of Charm, (Retrieved May 8, 2025)

Garden Design, Native Plants, Travel

A Garden Visit – The Abkhazi Garden

1 Comment

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Gardening is an incredibly versatile hobby, a hobby that can move around with you when you move house or travel near or afar. I’ve always made a point of visiting gardens whenever or wherever I travel. Out-of-town sporting events, family holidays, weddings, and even business travel have always included visits to public gardens, arboretums, or even garden centres. These visits are always aesthetically pleasing and relaxing. At the same time, they provide a chance to learn about the plant material along with some local history and culture.

On a recent trip to Vancouver Island I visited the Abkhazi Garden in Victoria.  It was early October, well past the glory days of summer and far too late to enjoy the rhododendrons – the highlight of the garden – at their prime.  That didn’t matter at all, the vistas were astounding, the property a real treasure where gardens wind their way over and around dramatic glaciated rock mounds. This is a site where the gardeners took full advantage of the topography and natural environment rather than change it or cover it up. It’s a one acre spot surrounded by urban Victoria yet each view from anywhere in the garden carries the eye to pleasing combinations of shape, colour, texture, and form. The main house and summer house were built in the late 1940’s reflecting the post-war Modernist sprit, resulting in a superb integration of house and garden.  The house and garden are carefully integrated, the blend of the natural and designed is seamless and sublime.

The story behind the garden is interesting as well. The property was originally purchased by Peggy Pemberton-Carter who, in 1946, had recently arrived in Victoria after having spent the war in prisoner-of-war camps in China. She soon married Nicolas Abkhazi, an exiled Georgian prince who had also been interned. The combination of their personal privilege and hardship found a creative outlet in their garden. In the beginning they acquired plant material from the finest nurseries, they were mentored by distinguished horticulturalists and over the next 40 years they experimented and refined their project.

The walk through the garden begins in the rhododendron woodland where the native Garry oaks provide the canopy for species and hybrid rhododendrons. Growing closer to the ground are the ferns and hostas with winter aconite, fawn lilies, camas and hardy cyclamen blooming in season. There’s also tigridia, primula, and galtonia, along with spring flowering bulbs.

A Spanish fir tree holds place of honour at the beginning of a meandering green path with an immense rock outcropping on one side and a profusion of heather and other mounding, textural interest on the other. The path was inspired by the Yangtze River and Peggy’s image of it near her childhood home. Side paths lead onto several naturally created rock ponds providing reflections of sky and other nearby plantings. At each turn or change in elevation the composition is unique and spellbinding.

Recent additions to the garden include a swathe of native camas and a collection of plants indigenous to the Caucasus region, these the result of a donation from the Georgian Ambassador.

The Land Conservancy of British Columbia (TLC) purchased the property in 2000 to save it from becoming a townhouse development. Part of the main room in the house has been refurbished as a Tea House. Community support is a large factor in the continued success and improvement of the garden: the entry fee is by donation and a large group of enthusiastic volunteers do much of the work around the garden.

References:

Abkhazi Garden

https://www.abkhaziteahouse.com/