Category Archives: Vegetable Gardening

Vegetable Gardening, Planting

Fresh Crops for Fall: Make the Most of Your Garden This Season

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By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

It’s mid-July in my Zone 5b garden, and it’s hot. My zucchini and cucumbers have finally started producing after a cold, challenging spring, tomatoes are beginning to ripen, and I’m harvesting bush beans by the handful. While it feels like peak gardening season, I’m already planning my next harvest. Mid-summer is the perfect time to think about succession planting – a simple way to keep your garden productive well into the fall.

Succession planting is the practice of sowing new crops as others finish, allowing you to make the most of your growing season and garden space.

In Peterborough, Ontario, our growing season averages about 150 frost-free days, leaving plenty of time for another crop before fall.

What I’m harvesting: Garlic

By the end of July, I’m pulling my garlic crop and curing it before storage, leaving a large empty patch in my garden.

What I’m succession planting: Bush Beans

Bush beans have a short seeding to harvest window, 50 to 60 days, meaning I can plant another round where my garlic has been pulled and get a harvest before first frost.

What I’m harvesting: Zucchini and Cucumbers

My cucurbit crop is usually showing signs of stress in late summer, and I will often pull plants that are no longer producing.

What I’m succession planting: Root Vegetables

The empty space left by my cucumber and zucchini plants can be filled by fall root crops like beets, carrots and turnips. These crops can often take a few light frosts before being harvested.

What I’m harvesting: Leafy Greens

Lettuce is notorious for bolting in summer heat, becoming bitter and unappetizing. Time to pull your sad lettuce plants to make room.

What I’m succession planting: Brassicas

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower thrive in cool weather. Sowing them now means that you can have a bountiful fall harvest that will easily withstand a few light frosts.

A few things to remember when succession planting:

Your newly available garden space will more than likely be depleted of nutrients and require a boost. Before planting a new crop, amend the soil with compost to support healthy growth.

New plants will need protection from pests that have already established. Be sure to cover brassicas to protect them from cabbage moth damage, and inspect your garden every few days for insect and disease damage.

Seeds planted in mid-summer can dry out more quickly than spring plantings. Keep your soil consistently moist until seedlings are established, and use a layer of mulch once plants emerge to retain moisture.

Always check the days to harvest information on seed packets. If you’re planting seeds in mid-July and your first frost is typically October 1st, you have about 70 growing days available. As long as the plant you choose matures in less than 70 days, you should be safe to plant.

Don’t think of July as the beginning of the end of your garden. Think of it as the beginning of your fall harvest. With a little planning and the right crops, you can continue harvesting fresh vegetables well into the fall.

Resources for further reading on succession planting:

Ontario Planting Calendar

Seeds for Successional Planting

Succession Planting Chart

Slugs and Bugs, Spring, Uncategorized, Vegetable Gardening

Growing the best cucumbers!

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By Christine Freeburn, Peterborough Master Gardener

Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are a warm weather vegetable which means they don’t like cooler spring temperatures. If you are starting from seed, plant indoors and grow under lights 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.

Growing in peat or coir pellets will help with transplanting shock, but do not let pellets dry out. Germination takes 6 to 10 days. Remember to harden off, before putting into ground that is warm (18C to 22C), usually the end of May.

If you are purchasing seedlings, be mindful of outdoor temperatures when planting. Anything below 10C and plants could shock, setting them back or even killing them. If June nights are cool (we could still have a frosty night in June), cover your plants with a bed sheet or heavier row cover.

There are many different varieties of cucumber from the ‘Straight Eight’ or ‘Marketmore76’ which are a slicing type, pickling varieties like ‘Avenger’, minis like ‘Manny’ and the popular seedless English type like ‘Summer Dance’.

You may also notice, they are listed as Garden or Greenhouse varieties. Greenhouse types are often thin skinned, want it warm and don’t require pollination, and so are good for growing under cover or in a greenhouse. If you are growing your cucumbers in hills, the garden variety is fine.

When you are reading catalogues or seed packets, check the pollination key for your chosen variety. This tells you what each variety needs to pollinate and bear fruit. Cucumbers that have stubby ends or no growth have not been pollinated fully.

Pollination Key
Monoecious - male and female flowers on the same plant, so one plant will do, however pollination does need to happen, so invite pollinators to your garden. You can also pollinate yourself. The female flower is identified by having a tiny fruit just behind it. You can remove a fresh male blossom and gently rub it against the pollen of the female to help with fertilization.
Gynoecious - plants have only female flowers and need another plant to pollinate
Parthenocarpic - these plants do not require pollination and are usually Greenhouse varieties.

Cucumbers need lots of compost/fertilizer as they are heavy feeders. They also need to be evenly moist. Water the soil, not the plant to prevent powdery mildew and other viral diseases.

You can grow cucumbers up a trellis. In fact, I recommend it as this helps to keep fruit clean, encourages good air flow to reduce disease and can keep pests away. You will need to train the vines. Use clips to gently hold in place. Install your trellis or whatever you are using, when you plant your cucumbers and before they begin to grow.

Cucumbers can also be grown in containers where it is easier to keep them evenly moist and mulched. And you can still trellis them, if you are buying the vining type. I use 3 bamboo stakes which I put in a teepee shape by tying the tops together. You can purchase bush type cucumbers, which are more compact than vining types, but production is not as high with bush types.

The cucumber beetle is the main pest for this crop. Crop rotation is important as beetles overwinter in soil, coming out of soil in mid summer to munch on your plants and transmit bacterial wilt.  Planting nasturtiums, dill or marigolds may help to keep the pests away. The best remedy is row covers. Put row covers on new plants as soon as they go into the ground. Covers will need to be removed for pollination, once flowers appear.

Cucumber beetle

Pick cucumbers in the morning when they hold the most moisture. Pick fruit often to encourage more to grow. Cucumbers contain vitamin K, potassium, antioxidants and fibre. Enjoy them!

References

Cucumber

William Dam Seeds

Book – Growing Under Cover – Niki Jabbour – Storey Publications

Bugs, Myths, Perennials, Vegetable Gardening, Water

Plant Myth Busters — Garden Edition

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By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

Every spring, when the soil warms and seed packets start calling our names, gardeners everywhere prepare for another growing season filled with hope – and advice. Lots of advice. From relatives to viral social media tips, it can feel like everyone has a “tried and true” gardening trick to share. But not all advice is rooted in fact. Let’s dig into some common garden myths.

Treated wood is toxic for vegetable gardens

This advice used to be true. Using railway ties treated with creosote or pressure treated lumber that contained arsenic-based preservatives could introduce harmful chemicals into your soil. Fortunately, since 2003 pressure treated wood in Canada now typically uses a copper based preservative called Copper Azole. This compound is generally considered safe for building vegetable garden beds. Don’t be afraid to shop at your local lumber yard or big box store when designing your garden.

Read more here: https://woodpreservation.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/BulletinTreated-Wood-In-Raised-Bed-Gardening.pdf

Watering in the afternoon burns plants

If this was true, we would all be in trouble when it rains! The truth is, there are benefits and drawbacks to watering at certain times of day. Watering in the early morning allows plants to use available water before the heat of the day hits. Watering in the evening can allow water to sit on leaves for extended periods of time, encouraging fungal growth. Watering in the afternoon can be more wasteful as some water will evaporate instead of reaching your plants’ roots. So when should you water? When your plants need it. Early morning is best, but if your plants are thirsty in the afternoon, water them.

Read more here: https://wpcdn.web.wsu.edu/wp-puyallup/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/leaf-scorch.pdf

Planting Lavender repels mosquitoes

It’s true that some plants (lavender, lemongrass, citronella) contain natural oils that may repel mosquitoes, but they are only effective when their leaves are crushed and the oils are applied directly to your skin. Even then, the benefits are short lived. Just planting these plants in your garden does not show any real repellent qualities. They do, however, smell lovely to us!

Read more here: https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/2025/08/06/florida-experts-break-down-the-buzz-on-the-myth-of-mosquito-repelling-plants/

Companion planting solves garden problems

Okay, don’t freak out… I’m not saying that companion planting is bad. It’s just not a magical cure-all for garden issues. The three sisters method (https://parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/mb/fortgarry/culture/blog/soeurssisters) is a companion planting method that has been used by indigenous people for hundreds of years with real benefits. But planting basil next to your tomatoes to improve flavour? You might hear some anecdotal evidence, but the science doesn’t back it up. While some companion planting claims are exaggerated, some pairings can still provide indirect benefits, such as attracting pollinators or improving space use.

Read more here: https://www.gardenmyths.com/companion-planting-truth-myth/

Gardening is part science, part tradition, and a whole lot of
learning as you grow. While not every myth will harm your garden,
understanding the “why” behind common garden advice can help
you make more informed choices and grow with confidence. As
you head into the season, stay curious, keep asking questions,
and don’t be afraid to dig a little deeper. Your garden will thank
you for it.

Advice, Herbs, Links, Native Plants, Seeds, Vegetable Gardening, Winter Sowing

Seed Snails – A Good Way to Start Seeds?

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

It’s wintertime – the snow is high, the temperatures are low, and I’ve already completed my winter sowing. So what’s a gardener to do?

Other than catching up on my garden reading, I like to experiment with new things, and one thing I’ve been seeing for a couple of years now are “seed snails” or snail rolls – a clever, coiled method of starting seeds in tight spaces. I’m going to try it this week, so I did a little research.

So, what is a garden/seed “snail”?

A garden snail is a roll of material lined with seed starter mix, then coiled so it looks like a snail shell. Seeds are sown into the exposed spiral of soil, where they sprout and grow until you unroll and transplant them.

Instead of dozens of trays, you stand the snails upright in a container, which makes this method very space efficient. It’s become popular with gardeners who want to start lots of plants indoors before the last frost and who have limited space.

Sprouting seed snail (source: North Shore Gardening Life)

Seed snails concentrate many seedlings in one compact, easy-to-move bundle. So, you can tuck them under grow lights, on a bright windowsill, or use them in winter-sowing containers outdoors.

The continuous column of soil encourages deep, downward root growth instead of circling in a small cell. When transplant time comes, you simply unroll the snail, tease the seedlings apart, and set them into pots or the garden once the risk of frost has passed.

​How to make your own garden snails

The basics – take a strip of plastic or bubble wrap, wax paper (or other suitable material) about 15–60 cm long and 10–15 cm high, quality seed-starting mix, elastic or tape, a tray, and labels. Spread moist seed starting mix along the strip, about 1–2 cm thick, leaving a bare section at one end so it will roll easily.

Roll it up gently into a spiral, secure it, then stand it on end in a tray. Firm the soil from the top and plant your seeds into the visible spirals at the recommended depth, misting lightly and covering with plastic to hold humidity until they germinate.

Seed Snails ready to go! (source: North Shore Gardening Life)

There are many sites on the internet to learn more about the process (some good, some not so good), so I’ve put two good Canadian ones below that really helped me. There are definitely some pros and cons to this method.

If you have used this technique yourself, please comment and let us know what you think?

Start Your Seeds in a Snail Roll! North Shore Gardening Life (Nova Scotia) Super helpful in visualizing the process.

Snail Roll THE New Way To Start Seeds Gardening in Canada – Gardening in Canada (Ashley) Science-based video (10 min) on the method, pros/cons, what soil etc.  

I’m going to try some veggies, herbs, annuals (sweet peas), and native plants, all using different options, and I’ll report back on my experiments in a later blog.

Seed placement – for larger seeds push them down into the soil (source: North Shore Gardening Life)

Common Mistakes with the Seed Snail Method

I thought I’d list a few of the most common seed snail pitfalls I discovered so that hopefully you (and I) can avoid them.

1. Rolling or sowing the wrong way

Sowing seeds before rolling often leads to seeds shifting, spilling, or ending up too shallow or too deep in the spiral. A more reliable approach is to roll the snail first, then plant seeds from the top where you can control depth.

2. Planting too many kinds of seeds in one snail

Mixing different varieties or species in a single snail makes it hard to tell which seedling is which, especially when some don’t germinate. Use only one crop (and ideally one variety) per snail, making shorter rolls if you need fewer plants.

3. Overwatering and poor moisture balance

It’s easy to overwater snails, especially early on, causing poor germination and weak seedlings. Snails also dry out quickly because they contain little soil, so you need careful, even watering over the entire spiral rather than just one side or one edge.

4. Too little soil and wrong mix

Very thin snails or mixes with lots of perlite hold little water, so roots dry quickly and capillary action from the tray is limited. A slightly thicker layer of seed-starting mix with good water-holding but not heavy or compacted works better for this method.

5. Skipping labels and timing info

Label your snail with variety and sowing date. Knowing when you sowed helps you decide whether to wait longer or resow.

6. Letting seedlings stay in the snail too long

Because each snail holds so little soil, seedlings can become root-bound and stressed if not transplanted or potted up promptly. Unroll/pot on once seedlings have a couple of true leaves, rather than waiting until they are tall and leggy.

7. Covering or enclosing without checking

Covering snails with plastic for humidity is helpful but use clear coverings you can monitor and keep them on just long enough to maintain moisture until germination is underway.

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Books, Communication, Dreams, Fruits, Greenhouses, Health, Herbs, Houseplants, Information, Native Plants, Overwintering, Perennials, Propagation, Vegetable Gardening, Wildflowers

Time for Reading Garden Books

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by Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

In this day and age, we spend so much time on our computers, googling all the information we want and need. But there is something about sitting by a sunny window on a cold winter’s day with a good book.

The winter months are a great time to pull out an old gardening book or invest in a new one. The days are now getting longer and spring is coming, but actual gardening is a few months away. Time to learn something new to help you improve your gardening skills. There are many good Canadian and zone appropriate books that can help you.

Below, I have listed a few of my favourite books on my bookshelf. I have also asked my fellow Master Gardeners to share their favourites. Some of the books are out of print, but check your local library, used book stores or online sites. Enjoy!

For the Houseplant Gardener

The New Plant Parent

Darryl Cheng gives advice that is full of common sense. He explains that leaves do die and plant care should be enjoyable, not a chore. He discusses basic requirements for healthy plants including the right light, soil care and proper watering. Great illustrations and nineteen plant varieties are listed in detail. Look for his newer books also.

For the Vegetable Gardener

Plant Partners

Companion planting has been around for years. Jessica Walliser gives us “science-based companion planting strategies” that help with disease and pests, improves soil and supports pollinators. Lovely illustrations throughout will have you dreaming of your next vegetable garden.

Growing Under Cover

Niki Jabbour is the Canadian half of the popular website Savvy Gardening (along with Jessica Walliser). She has several books out, but this one gives great information about how to reduce pests with row covers. Niki has several books out, so check them out.

The Kitchen Garden

Peterborough MG Silvia Strobl first toured Patrick Lima and John Scanlan’s garden on the Bruce Peninsula over 40 years ago and was inspired by both their colourful perennial and productive vegetable gardens. Each spring, she still refers to this book’s excellent information to refresh her memory on time to sow, spacing, thinning, harvesting, etc. for the vegetable crops she grows! Unfortunately, this book is out of print, but you may find a used copy online.

Incredible Edibles

This book by Sonia Day is recommended by Peterborough MG Deb Fraser. It is very basic for the beginner gardener. It answers when, where, how, as well as other questions for herbs and vegetables. She even gives a recipe for each plant. Another book that is out of print. Try used book sites.

Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices & Flavorings

Deb also suggests the Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices & Flavorings, a cook’s compendium by Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz. Originally British but published in Canada by Readers Digest, 1992. It is beautifully illustrated and very detailed about the origin of herbs, spices, oils, sauces, coffees and teas around the world. She details the origin of these, how to cook with them and a recipe. When the weather is frightful with a nice warm drink in hand it makes for interesting reading, perhaps planning to add a few herbs to your garden next spring.

For the Perennial Gardener

The Well-Tended Perennial Garden

Peterborough MG Gladys Fowler’s favourite book is the Well Tended Perennial Garden. Tracy DiSabato-Aust’s book has an extensive encyclopedia of perennial species and cultivars and she explains the maintenance and pruning needs of each plant. The explanations and illustrations are excellent.

For the Native Plant Enthusiast

The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

For Peterborough MG Emma Murphy, definitely this one on native plant gardening – for our region, gives everything you need to know about growing the plant, including propagation, wildlife value and what butterflies and moths it is a larva host for. For a full book review she did on Rick Gray and Shaun Booth’s book when it was published in 2024 click here.

A Garden for the Rusty-Patched Bumblebee

Peterborough MG Sharleen Pratt says this book by Lorraine Johnson and Sheila Colla not only goes into great detail about Ontario native plants, vines, shrubs and trees, but it also encourages us all to think about the spaces we create so that pollinators can thrive.

For the Environmentalist

Our Green Heart

Peterborough MG Carol Ireland says it feels good to sit down and read something that requires absolute attention while at the same time causes you to make all the connections between what you are reading and the place trees have in the survival of our planet. This one by Diana Beresford-Kroeger is also on my reading list!

What is your favourite gardening book? What do you have on your list to find and read next? Eleven more weeks till spring!

Check out previous reviews on our website

Favourites From My Bookshelf

Four Great Books

Books, Communication, Dreams, Garden Design, Garden rejuvenation, New Gardens, Perennials, Tools, Vegetable Gardening, Websites

Creating a Garden Journal

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Full confession – I have never kept a garden journal. I have been given one from time to time as a gift, but I’ve never got round to using them.

This winter I’m thinking about finally using one (because my memory isn’t getting any better with age!) and because I’d like to record my gardening experiments in our main perennial beds year over year, as well as my experiences with native plants in my small native plant nursery in Lakefield, Ontario.

Keeping a garden journal is a valuable practice for both novice and experienced gardeners. It helps you document your gardening journey, learn from your experiences, and plan for the future.

So Why Keep a Garden Journal?

To Track Progress – A journal can help document plant growth, flowering times, and harvest yields to see how your garden evolves over time.

Record Weather Conditions – Noting temperature, rainfall, and seasonal changes that affect your plants will help you understand their influence on growth.

For Inspiration – A journal is a great place to document ideas, designs, and observations that inspire your gardening, serving as a creative outlet.

For Improved Planning – Use your past experiences to inform future planting decisions, such as choosing the right plants for specific locations.

Pest and Disease Management – It’s great to keep a record of any pest issues or diseases, along with effective treatments, to reference in the future.

For Budgeting Purposes – Keeping track of expenses related to your gardening supplies and plants allows you to manage your gardening budget effectively.

Some Thoughts on Creating a Garden Journal

I found some great ideas on how to have a successful garden journal.

Choose the Right Format – Decide between a physical notebook, a binder, or a digital platform that suits your preferences. You might want to keep several different journals – one for your vegetable garden, one for seeds etc. It’s up to you.

Include Essential Information – Record planting dates, plant names, care instructions, and observations on growth and health. This allows you to compare information year to year.

Photos – Incorporate photos of your garden at various stages, including bloom times and harvests.

Be Descriptive – Use descriptive language to capture your feelings and thoughts about your garden’s progress and challenges. Think about how your garden makes you feel during different times of the seasons.

Create Seasonal Sections – Consider organizing your journal by seasons or gardening phases (preparation, planting, maintenance, and harvesting) for easier reference.

Set Goals and Then Reflect – Write down your gardening goals for each season and include reflections on what worked well and what didn’t.

Add Design Elements – Include sketches or diagrams of your garden layout. Use colour, stickers, or drawings to make it visually engaging.

Maintain Regular Updates – Set a schedule to update your journal regularly, such as weekly or monthly, to maintain consistency. This is one thing I will have to do in order to successfully use a journal.

Experimentation Section – Dedicate a space to document any new gardening techniques, experiments, or plant varieties you try.

Review and Revise – Regularly review your entries to spot trends and adjust for future growing seasons.

Resources and Inspiration

Toronto & Golden Horseshoe Gardener’s Journal (now Canada Gardener’s Journal)
This journal has been reimagined for gardeners across Canada, providing tools, resources, and tips for successful gardening. Started by Margaret Bennet-Alder to aid Toronto area gardeners, in 2017 she transferred ownership to Helen and Sarah Battersby and now it’s run by Steven Biggs of Food Garden Life. (might make a great Christmas gift?)

Garden Therapy
This site has several articles about the importance of keeping a gardening journal and shares tips.
How to Start Keeping a Garden Journal (and Why You’ll Thank Me)
Keeping a Gardening Journal: Reflecting on Growth and Healing

Lee Valley 10 Year Gardening Journal
A very detailed 10 year perpetual diary, where each diary page is for one day of the year, and each page is divided into 10 sections. There is a diary, a section on gardening techniques, reference material, many charts, and places to record your inventory of perennials, a place to sketch etc.

DIY Garden Journal and Planner
Discusses the importance of a garden journal and provides printable pages and organizing tips. 

Purdue University – County Extension
Consider a garden journal – discusses the benefits of keeping a garden journal and what to include.

Penn State University – County Extension
Offers insights into Keeping a Garden Journal.

The Garden Continuum
Why a Journal is a Gardener’s Best Friend – explains the benefits of and tips for choosing the right format. This last link I found interesting as it explained the benefits of a digital vs hard copy journal.

“A digital journal can offer several advantages. First, it’s easily searchable so you can quickly find information on specific plants, techniques or projects. Second, you can easily add photos and other digital media to your entries, which can help you document your garden’s progress visually. Third, a digital journal can be accessed anywhere and from multiple devices so you can update it from your computer, tablet or phone. 

Writing by hand, however, can be a meditative and reflective experience, and it may help you to connect more deeply with your garden. Additionally, a handwritten journal can serve as a keepsake or heirloom that can be passed down through generations or to the future owners of your home.”

What I learned from my research on starting a garden journal (for this blog) is that you have to think about what YOU want to get out of your journal – inspiration, documentation, templates, a diary…whatever that is. So find a journal (or create your own journal) that meets your needs. If you find a great resource, please share it in the comments!

For now our garden in asleep for the winter, but it doesn’t mean we can’t start our journal and dream of springtime!

Compost, Fertilizer, Vegetable Gardening, Weed Control

Cover Your Bases with These Cover Crops

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By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

What are cover crops?  

These are plants that are seeded and grown in a specific area for the purpose of covering the soil with plant matter and then allowing that green material (and its roots) to return to the soil by decomposing, thereby feeding the soil and its constituents. Specific crops are used for this purpose as you can choose the cover crop to fit the needs of your soil or the period of time that your garden space is not being used for other crops. 

Benefits of Cover Crops  

  • Covers the soil – preventing soil run off, evaporation of moisture, and suppresses weeds 
  • Feeds microbial life in the soil  
  • Creates organic matter for the soil to feed itself with 
  • Convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that is usable for plants 
  • Their roots can loosen compacted soil and allow for aeration as they decompose  

Where to use them?  

You can use them in any garden space that is not otherwise in use, is about to come out of production or to prepare a garden space for future use. Cover crops are often used by farmers and market gardeners, but can be used in your backyard veggie garden, annual beds, or a garden space you hope to use next year.  

image.png

Freshly mowed cover crop

Winter-Kill Cover Crops 

These are the types that you plant in early fall. They grow to a nearly mature size before winter and then are killed by the frost. They then form a nice mulch over the winter to protect the soil. Choose these varieties in spaces that you want to be able to plant early in the spring.  

Oats – Good for suppressing weeds, improving soil health, protecting from erosion. Sow 6-10 weeks before first frost.  

Field Peas – Grow well in cool weather, great for nitrogen fixation. Plant about 6-8 weeks before first frost for maximum benefit.

  Field peas in bloom

Field Peas in Bloom

Daikon Radish (Tillage Radish) – Most known for its bio-tillage capabilities. The long tap root grows deep into the soil and then breaks down over winter and early spring, aerating the soil, providing organic material for the microbes and can be useful in loosening compacted soil.  image.png

Radish Sprouts  –  I planted these around Sept 3. This photo was taken Sept 12. 

Sorghum Sudan Grass – Great for weed suppression and moisture retention in the soil. Be sure to plant when soil is still warm. It will die after frost but if planted too early will go to seed so be sure to mow before it sets seed if it hasn’t been killed by frost yet.  image.png

Mature Sorghum (when used as a cover crop you would terminate before this stage)

Cold-Hardy Cover Crops  

These are types that you plant in mid to late fall. They begin to grow in fall, become dormant in the winter and re-emerge in the early spring. You then wait for them to develop appropriate bio-mass and terminate before they go to seed. These are usually more difficult to terminate and may require tillage, crimping or tarping. Choose these varieties for a space in the garden that won’t be needed until very late spring.   

Rye – Can thrive in low-fertility soil. Very cold hardy. It is recommended to till it into the soil in the spring when it reaches 12-18 in high.  

image.png

Mature Rye (Should be terminated by crimping or tilling before this stage)

Hairy vetch – Not as great for weed control at first as it is slow growing, but an excellent nitrogen fixator as it is a legume. Plant in early fall and then till or mow it down in the spring and it can remain in place as a nitrogen-rich mulch.  

image.png

Vetch Flowers

Crimson Clover & Red Clover – If allowed to grow to mid-May in the spring, will provide lots of nitrogen for the soil and provide a spring flower source for pollinators. Has a strong root system that helps reduce compaction.  

image.png

Crimson Clover

Red Clover

 Resources

Field Peas – SARE https://www.sare.org/publications/managing-cover-crops-profitably/legume-cover-crops/field-peas/ 

Radish as a cover crop – Integrated Pest and Crop Management – UW–Madison https://ipcm.wisc.edu/blog/2011/04/radish-as-a-cover-crop/ 

University of Vermont – Winter Rye: A Reliable Cover Crop  https://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/winterrye.html 

Crimson Clove Cover Crop Fact Sheet https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/sites/default/files/2024-04/Crimson%20Clover%20Crop%20Fact%20Sheet.pdf  

Hairy Vetch – https://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/agricultural-land-and-environment/soil-nutrients/cover-crops/hairy_vetch_final.pdf  

Advice, Garden Design, Greenhouses, Herbs, Planting, Vegetable Gardening

Cold Frames – A Mini Greenhouse in Your Garden

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by Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

I’m sipping my coffee on the deck, overlooking my vegetable garden. Everything shows signs of fall. The onions and garlic have been harvested. The green beans are finished for the season and are ready for the compost pile. The zucchini and summer squash are suffering from powdery mildew, and the tomatoes are carrying the last few fruits of the season. Although summer is ending, the fall gardening season is just beginning – and I have a secret weapon: a cold frame.

Why Cold Frames Work

Several leafy green vegetables can survive and even thrive in cooler temperatures. Kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, and spinach produce sugars that lower the freezing point of water in their cells, protecting them from damaging ice crystals. These crops tend to bolt in the heat of summer but thrive in the crisp days of fall. Still, even hardy plants will eventually succumb to our harsh Canadian winters.

That’s where a cold frame comes in – you can significantly extend your growing season with one. Imagine brushing snow off your cold frame in November to harvest fresh kale for a salad!

Cold frame basics (Source: “Large Cold Frame” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0)

What Is a Cold Frame?

A cold frame is a low, bottomless structure with a transparent lid that protects plants from wind and cold. The lid lets sunlight in, while the insulated base traps heat and creates a microclimate that can run several degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Ventilation is key – open the lid on sunny days to prevent overheating and ensure proper airflow.

Cold frames come in various styles depending on budget, materials, and space.

Types of Cold Frames

Traditional Cold Frame
Built from wood with an angled, hinged top – this could use glass, polycarbonate, or heavy plastic. They can be permanent or portable and built with reclaimed or new materials. An old window makes a perfect lid.

Straw Bale Cold Frame
 Stack straw bales to form a frame and cover with windows or plastic sheeting. Straw provides insulation and can be reused or composted in spring.

Hot Bed
 A sunken bed filled with compostable material such as horse manure, straw, or poultry bedding, covered with soil and topped with a cold frame. As the material decomposes, it generates heat, warming the soil below.

Traditional cold frame using wood and an old window (Source:“cold-frame-in-winter” by The Art of Doing Stuff, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Straw bale cold frame (Source: “Quick coldframe, straw bales and old windows” by Irene Kightley, CC BY-SA 2.0 – Flickr)

Need a visual? Watch DIY Cold Frame • Easy How‑to Tutorial with Niki Jabbour to see an easy cold frame build using recycled materials—great for Canadian gardeners. Or for a classic approach, check out How to Build a Cold Frame | This Old House, a clear demo using a salvaged window lid.

Tips for Success

  • Timing is everything: Sow spinach, kale, or lettuce in late August or early September to harvest well into late fall – or even December, depending on snow cover.
  • Ventilation matters: Even on sunny October days, closed frames can overheat. Keep lids open when needed.
  • Spring bonus: In March or April, use your cold frame to start early crops like lettuce or radishes, or to harden off seedlings before planting.

The Quiet Magic of Cold Frames

No matter which style you choose, a cold frame is a valuable addition to any garden. It helps you garden later into the season and gives you a head start in spring.

With one simple structure, you don’t have to say goodbye to your garden when frost arrives. Picture a crisp November morning—brushing snow from the lid and harvesting fresh spinach for breakfast. That’s the quiet magic a cold frame brings to your backyard.

Banner photo “Large Cold Frame With Props” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0

Bees & Pollinators, Drought, Heat, Vegetable Gardening

Hot News in the Vegetable Garden

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by Lois Scott, Master Gardener

Excessive heat can certainly make it hard for me to work in the garden.  It can also affect how your vegetables work.

For most plants ideal growing temperatures range from 15 to 30 degrees Celsius (C).  When temperatures are above 32 degrees C for long periods of time plant growth is slowed and some plants will begin to show stress.  This link describes a number of heat-related issues and some solutions. 

A neighbour and new gardener commented that he wasn’t getting any fruit forming on his only squash plant and wondered if he had a plant with only female or male flowers.  I reassured him that squash plants and other cucurbit vegetables like cucumber and zucchini all produced male and female flowers on the same plant. 

While this is true, apparently daytime temperatures of 32 degrees C and up and night time temperatures of over 21 degrees C can change the ratio of male to female flowers to more male than female flowers.  These same temperatures can also cause flowers and small fruit to drop.  Too much or too little water can also cause flowers and fruit to drop. 

Watering may be within our control but temperatures may not be!  There are varieties that are touted to be heat tolerant and could be a good option for our increasingly hot summers.

Another cause of no fruit or deformed fruit is poor pollination.  Apparently, many bees don’t like to work when it’s hot.  Temperatures over 32 degrees C causes many bees to slow down and pollinate less. 

Tomatoes may also be affected by very hot weather.  During hot spells with daytime temperatures above 29 degrees C and night time temperatures above 21 degrees C, tomato plants may become stressed, depleting the plants energy stores and changing the flower making it harder for them to be pollinated.  The flower will then drop from the plant.

Heat may also keep your tomatoes from turning red.  Tomatoes ripen in two stages.  They are green, seeds form, the area around the seeds becomes soft and gelatinous and they are mature.  Then they turn red.  The ideal temperature for turning red is 20 to 25 degrees C. The pigments that turn mature tomatoes red are not produced when the temperature is above 29 degrees C. 

The good news is that when the temperature is ideal, they will turn red. More here.

Gardening provides lots of learning opportunities to improve outcomes but sometimes the weather gets in the way!

Bees & Pollinators, Bugs, Children, Information, Vegetable Gardening

Pests & Diseases in the Summer Garden

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By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

Now that we finally have some warm weather, we welcome the highest populations of insect pests and diseases that we will experience throughout the year in the garden. Here I will highlight some general principals of pest management to achieve thriving plants, a delicious harvest (if we’re talking vegetables) and a healthy, balanced ecosystem in your garden.

  1. Healthy Soil = Healthy Plants

Plants have many adaptive mechanisms to protect themselves and keep themselves alive. Healthy soil provides plants the tools they need to do this. Achieve this with addition of organic matter, adequate moisture and space for the roots to grow (ie. minimal compaction). Deficiencies and imbalances can render them susceptible to pest damage.

If you’re not feeding the soil, the soil is feeding on itself.

2.Resistant/Tolerant Varieties

Look for seeds/plants that have built in resistance to common pest or disease problems you have dealt with in the past. This is often noted in seed guides, like the photo below or on plant labels.

Source: westcoastseeds.com

3. Crop Rotation

Simply moving your vegetables around each year allows for better nutrient availability to each plant type but also makes it harder for the pests/diseases to find your plants.

Utilizing some beds, cover cropping/tarping others

4. Monitor Regularly

Keep an eye on your garden, daily if possible. This way you can spot problems early and manage them while they are small.

“The best medicine for the garden is the gardener.”

5. Reduce overhead watering

Overhead watering increases risk of disease transmission from soil to plant and from plant to plant. The water can splash up from the soil onto the leaves, bringing disease with them. It can also sit on the leaves of the plant and make an excellent environment for fungal pathogens to thrive.

Left: Much to retain moisture Right: Drip irrigation or soaker hoses

6. Promote Ventilation

Trellising, pruning and adequate spacing can help reduce the risk of infestations and disease.

Tomato plant with the bottom leaves and extra foliage pruned off.

7. Removal of diseased plants & Sanitation

If caught early, a plant with diseased parts may be saved by removing the damaged portion before it spreads to the whole plant or its neighbours. 

Always be sure to sanitize your tools and hands between plants to prevent spread.

The tools used to remove diseased plant material can transfer disease to other plants.

8. Learn your pest’s life cycle

Learning how the pest overwinters, when it emerges and begins to reproduce, and what stages of its growth it is a threat to your plants will help you to decide how to manage a pest more efficiently.

Many defoliators are only a problem during their larval stage.

9. Attract natural predators

Beneficial insects and organisms help keep the pests in check. Flowers like sweet alyssum, nasturtium and marigolds are commonly known for attracting insects that feed on common garden insect pests. Choose single or heirloom varieties to maximize pollen availability. Birds are also excellent bug eaters. 

Left: Sweet Alyssum Right: Nasturium

10. Prevention using Barriers

Insect netting for both flying and crawling bugs or fencing for deer/rabbits can help keep pests from becoming a problem.

Insect netting to keep the winged insects off.

11. Chemicals are only a short term ‘solution’.

Pesticides should always be thoroughly researched and used mindfully. They often come at a cost, harm both beneficial organisms and pests, and may not be good for your own health. They can help keep problem populations in check but can also just put the problem off temporarily only to be experienced again in future seasons. They are often not a long term or sustainable pest management solution.

(There is only water in this jug).

12. Fight pests with life, not death.

Create opportunities for the garden to balance its own ecosystem out by allowing as much biodiversity of plants, critters, microbes, and humans as possible.

Left: Girls in the garden Right: Annuals, perennials, flowers, edibles and volunteers are all welcome in this garden.