Category Archives: Weed Control

Solarization versus Occultation

By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

Solarization and occultation are chemical free methods of killing vegetation and some soil borne pests in garden beds using plastic tarps. While both use tarps, their mode of action is different.

Solarization

This is the process of placing a clear plastic tarp over the area to be treated in order to heat up the soil beneath the tarp. It uses the power of the sun to create a greenhouse like effect on the area. The plastic traps heat and moisture which initially encourages seed germination and plant growth. The plastic causes the temperature of the soil to rise as well as blocking additional precipitation. This results in the death of vegetation beneath the tarp.

Takes at least 6 weeks in high summer. To be effective the sides of the tarp must be buried to prevent heat loss.

This method may also be used for the treatment of soil amendments prior to addition to the garden where weed seeds or some soil borne pests are of concern. Material is spread in a layer on a tarp and then covered with clear plastic sheeting. The edges of the clear plastic must be tucked under tarp securely. As an example, a minimum of 3 days at 104 degree F will kill Asian jumping worms and their cocoons.

Occultation

This method uses opaque coverings that block both precipitation and sunlight (preventing photosynthesis) thereby killing the vegetation by starving it. The longer the tarp is left in place, the more effective it is. The time taken depends upon what problem is being addressed. These tarps are held down by heavy objects such as bricks, stone or in my case, pieces of split wood. Some perennial weeds such as quack grass (twitch grass) with long rhizomatous roots or those with long taproots survive prolonged deprivation from sunlight and will still need to be removed by digging.

Type of Tarp

For solarizing the ground, clear greenhouse plastic (new or used) is ideal. It is thicker and less likely to tear. Occultation requires an opaque tarp (preferably black, UV treated). Black polyethylene sheeting in rolls (4ml thick) can be used; tarps from the hardware store and my personal favourite, silage tarps. These are large, heavy duty tarps used in agriculture that may be reused many times.

Variations on a Theme

Woven landscape material has been used but is generally considered less effective as the woven texture allows water to penetrate and heat to escape, however many have used it provided they make allowances such as leaving it in place for longer periods.

Cardboard has also been used but is even less effective as it quickly becomes sodden and begins to break down.

Personal Experience

I have used occultation many times in the past and this summer as I was enlarging my nursery bed on 3 sides, I used it again. On two ends, I placed tradition black tarps however on the third I used commercial grade woven landscape material overlapped by about 1 foot and pinned to the ground at frequent intervals. I put these down the second week of April (before anything had started to grow) and kept the covers on until the second week of September. I was covering “the lawn” which at my house is a mixture of grasses and weeds such as quack grass, dandelions, plantain and creeping bellflower.

Upon removing the tarps, no growth was showing. Under the landscape material, it was mostly bare but not entirely. From past experience, I know that there may be perennial weed root left so I usually broad fork the treated areas in order to remove them. Surprisingly, there were no roots found in the areas that had been under waterproof tarp. Under the landscape material the only roots found were those of the creeping bellflower which I removed by hand.

All things considered, it was a successful treatment and the area is now home to new cutting peonies and narcissus.

Resources

https://extension.umn.edu/garden-and-home/yard-and-garden/gardening-in-minnesota/solarization-and-occultation

https://www.uvm.edu/extension/news/tarping-solarization-and-occultation

https://www.tarpsupply.com/blogs/tarps-articles/farm-soil-solarization-weed-control-tarps?srsltid=AYCX9vIQ4UkZ7xr5R_Fes2uwkzXqp3KRsTr0OQ7ECq3BC0D1t9v2RHzL

Smothering Periwinkle: A Practical Way to Reclaim Your Garden for Native Plants

By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

Photo: Invasive periwinkle spreading into my friend’s forest.

For years, gardening magazines praised periwinkles (Vinca spp.)¹ for their rapid growth, low maintenance, and adaptability to a wide range of growing conditions. Today, they are recognized as invasive plants that have spread into natural forests throughout much of southern and central Ontario.

Periwinkle has allelopathic properties that can inhibit the growth of other plants and alter soil chemistry, including increasing soil calcium and sulphur levels (see references cited in Mitchell and Simkovic 2025). These adaptations help periwinkle outcompete and displace native understorey plants, such as trilliums, and impede the regeneration of native trees (ibid.).

Have you been putting off removing that patch of periwinkle in your garden? Hand-pulling can be daunting because even tiny pieces of stem or root can regenerate. Nodes along both above- and below-ground runners can also take root and produce new plants.

There is another option: smothering periwinkle with heavy-duty black landscape fabric.

A three-year experiment

Over the past three years, I have helped a friend control a large patch of lesser periwinkle (V. minor) that was spreading into the native woodland on her rural property. Reluctant to use herbicides, she agreed to try heavy-duty black landscape fabric.

By excluding sunlight, the fabric prevents photosynthesis and gradually depletes the carbohydrates stored in the plants’ roots, reducing their ability to regrow.

Area 1: May 2023 to September 2025

We began by brush-cutting the periwinkle as close to the soil surface as possible. We raked the cut vines into clear plastic bags for solarization before disposal, then covered an area approximately 12 × 12 feet with landscape fabric. We carefully worked around a red elderberry and a red trillium, leaving both uncovered.

In September 2025, we lifted the fabric to find that the periwinkle had been completely killed. We immediately planted the area densely with winter-sown native species, including bluestem goldenrod, zigzag goldenrod, wild columbine, and wood poppy, adding leaf mulch to cover remaining bare soil.

Photo: The border between smothered periwinkle (right) and untreated periwinkle (left) in Area 1 after 2 years of being covered by landscape fabric.

Area 2: September 2025 to August 2026

We reused the fabric and landscape staples from Area 1 to cover the adjacent patch, again brush-cutting the periwinkle first. When we lifted the fabric in late August 2026, we found that the periwinkle had again been completely killed—this time after just one year.

We planted Area 2 densely with native plants  and reused the fabric and staples on the next section, Area 3.

Results

If the cost of landscape fabric and native plants is not a limiting factor, you can cover a larger area at once. The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners used this approach in the Sundial Garden at Peterborough’s Riverview Park and Zoo in June and August 2026 as shown in the following photo.


Tips for Success

Prepare the area.
Brush-cut the periwinkle as close to the soil surface as possible. Rake up the cut vines, bag them in clear plastic for solarization, and dispose of them appropriately.

Overlap generously.
Periwinkle can readily grow through gaps between adjoining pieces of fabric. Overlap seams by 4–6 inches and extend the fabric beyond the edges of the infestation. Curved edges around hardscaping require extra care.

Secure the fabric firmly.
Place landscape staples every 2–3 feet along the edges and overlapping seams to maintain close contact with the ground. Using gaskets can make removing and reusing the staples much easier.

Pay attention to slopes.
Sloping ground can make installation more challenging. Additional rocks, along with landscape staples, may help keep the fabric in contact with the soil.

Protect desirable plants.
Take care when working around native plants. Poorly fitted fabric can allow periwinkle to creep back into the treated area, requiring repairs. At the Zoo, periwinkle that had been covered for three months was already white, indicating that it had been deprived of light and could no longer photosynthesize. Landscape fabric will be kept on for several more months though.

Be patient and plan ahead.
Leave the fabric in place for at least one year, and potentially up to two years, depending on conditions and regrowth. Have native plants ready to establish a dense cover as soon as the fabric is removed. In the photograph, native plants are laid out in Area 2 in the foreground, while zigzag and bluestem goldenrods bloom in Area 1 behind them. Farther down the slope, another patch awaits treatment.

Respect wildlife.
At the zoo, we left the three entrances to a fox den uncovered. Foxes had successfully raised kits there the previous spring, and we wanted to leave the entrances accessible in case the adults returned that winter. We will manage the periwinkle emerging around the den by hand-pulling.

Watch for surprises!
After we removed the fabric from Area 1, a native round-leaved hepatica (Anemone americana) emerged from dormant seed in the soil. What a welcome discovery!

Tips for success

What else can you control this way?

Smothering with landscape fabric may also help control other creeping, non-native groundcovers, including goutweed, pachysandra, creeping Jenny, and English ivy. Both spring and fall can be suitable times to install heavy-duty fabric, provided it is secured properly and left in place long enough to suppress regrowth.

Once the fabric is removed, replant densely with native species suited to the site. This helps occupy the space, reduce opportunities for invasive plants to return, and restore habitat for native wildlife.

Could this approach help you reclaim a patch of your garden for native plants?

Garden Maintenance Tasks for September and October

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

September and October are busy months in the garden. The days are getting shorter, but there is still plenty to do before winter arrives.

Keep watering. Trees, shrubs and newly planted perennials need water until the ground freezes. This is especially important as our September has been quite dry this year so far. Give plants a thorough soaking rather than frequent, shallow watering.

Stay on top of weeds. Pull weeds before they set seed. Fall is also a good time to remove invasive plants and unwanted seedlings before they become established. In my garden, I’ve already cut back the daylily foliage and once the frost arrives, the hosta leaves will be next to go. It’s amazing to see the amount of unwanted seedlings and weeds that grow underneath both of those plants.

Deal with fallen leaves. Don’t feel that every leaf must be removed. Leaves can be left in garden beds where they provide winter cover and eventually add organic matter to the soil. On lawns, however, thick layers of leaves should be removed or chopped with the mower. Leaves can also be added to the compost pile.

Clean up the vegetable garden. Remove spent annual vegetables and any diseased plant material. Healthy plant debris can go into the compost pile, while diseased material should be removed from the garden.

Plant spring bulbs. September and October are good months to plant tulips, daffodils, crocuses and other spring-flowering bulbs. Plant them before the ground freezes — daffodils earlier, tulips later.

Don’t rush to cut everything down. Many perennials provide food and shelter for birds and beneficial insects through the winter. Leave attractive seed heads and sturdy stems standing where possible.

Finally, clean and put away garden tools, empty hoses, and store tender plants indoors before frost.

A little work now will make spring gardening easier—and leave something for us to look forward to during the winter!

Ten Things I Didn’t Get Done In Time

by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

In December, 2025, winter came in early with freezing temperatures and lots of snow plus a little freezing rain for good measure. I wasn’t prepared and some garden jobs slipped through the cracks. A few can still be done but alas it is too late for some of them.

Mother Nature has outwitted me again!

  1. I like to do a last weed through my perennial bed. Spring is always so busy and I find that a good fall weed keeps the weeds down and it is not such an arduous job in the spring.
  2. I like to spread compost on my beds in late fall. The worms do a great job of mixing it into the soil and it makes more room in the compost bins.
  3. Several bulbs didn’t get replanted after they were dug up when I was redoing the perennial beds. I was listening to Paul Zammitt on CBC and he suggested potting up these bulbs in containers with fresh potting soil. Cover these pots and put  in a cold, frost free area and bring them into the light in late winter/early spring. When I first moved to the Peterborough area, I had no garden to speak of, so I decided to pot up several containers of bulbs but failed to cover them. The mice and chipmunks thought that had won the lottery and ate every single bulb! Be warned! It is a job that I can still get done.
  4. My seeds need sorting out – what is still viable and what should be thrown or given to the birds. I still have time to do this.
  5. I like to dismantle my outdoor evergreen decorations and place them over tender plants. If this snow ever goes down, I could still do this.
  6. I have 2 large bags of leaves all ready in the garage ready to protect new shrubs and plants. For now, I just have to hope that the deep snow is doing the job.
  7. If I could get into my shed, I could sort out all the pots and recycle many of the smaller ones. Alas, the shed is snowed in.
  8. Every fall I clean all my garden tools, sandpapering any rust before oiling the blades and rubbing linseed oil into the wooden handles. Another job that I can still do. I did take out the battery from my lawn tractor and it is stored in my basement.
  9. I should have checked and repaired some of my trellis before growth starts in the spring.
  10. I have had several amaryllis that I have had for several years. They spend the summer outdoors and come inside to my basement before the last frost. I did do this but forgot to put a couple of them under lights in time to bloom for Christmas. Oh well I will have lots of colour for Easter.

Now that the new year is here, I have no excuse for not doing as many of these jobs as possible.

Meanwhile, I am enjoying all the birds that come to my feeders. I even have a pileated wood pecker that pecks away at my suet feeder. Happy New Year!

Cover Your Bases with These Cover Crops

By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

What are cover crops?  

These are plants that are seeded and grown in a specific area for the purpose of covering the soil with plant matter and then allowing that green material (and its roots) to return to the soil by decomposing, thereby feeding the soil and its constituents. Specific crops are used for this purpose as you can choose the cover crop to fit the needs of your soil or the period of time that your garden space is not being used for other crops. 

Benefits of Cover Crops  

  • Covers the soil – preventing soil run off, evaporation of moisture, and suppresses weeds 
  • Feeds microbial life in the soil  
  • Creates organic matter for the soil to feed itself with 
  • Convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that is usable for plants 
  • Their roots can loosen compacted soil and allow for aeration as they decompose  

Where to use them?  

You can use them in any garden space that is not otherwise in use, is about to come out of production or to prepare a garden space for future use. Cover crops are often used by farmers and market gardeners, but can be used in your backyard veggie garden, annual beds, or a garden space you hope to use next year.  

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Freshly mowed cover crop

Winter-Kill Cover Crops 

These are the types that you plant in early fall. They grow to a nearly mature size before winter and then are killed by the frost. They then form a nice mulch over the winter to protect the soil. Choose these varieties in spaces that you want to be able to plant early in the spring.  

Oats – Good for suppressing weeds, improving soil health, protecting from erosion. Sow 6-10 weeks before first frost.  

Field Peas – Grow well in cool weather, great for nitrogen fixation. Plant about 6-8 weeks before first frost for maximum benefit.

  Field peas in bloom

Field Peas in Bloom

Daikon Radish (Tillage Radish) – Most known for its bio-tillage capabilities. The long tap root grows deep into the soil and then breaks down over winter and early spring, aerating the soil, providing organic material for the microbes and can be useful in loosening compacted soil.  image.png

Radish Sprouts  –  I planted these around Sept 3. This photo was taken Sept 12. 

Sorghum Sudan Grass – Great for weed suppression and moisture retention in the soil. Be sure to plant when soil is still warm. It will die after frost but if planted too early will go to seed so be sure to mow before it sets seed if it hasn’t been killed by frost yet.  image.png

Mature Sorghum (when used as a cover crop you would terminate before this stage)

Cold-Hardy Cover Crops  

These are types that you plant in mid to late fall. They begin to grow in fall, become dormant in the winter and re-emerge in the early spring. You then wait for them to develop appropriate bio-mass and terminate before they go to seed. These are usually more difficult to terminate and may require tillage, crimping or tarping. Choose these varieties for a space in the garden that won’t be needed until very late spring.   

Rye – Can thrive in low-fertility soil. Very cold hardy. It is recommended to till it into the soil in the spring when it reaches 12-18 in high.  

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Mature Rye (Should be terminated by crimping or tilling before this stage)

Hairy vetch – Not as great for weed control at first as it is slow growing, but an excellent nitrogen fixator as it is a legume. Plant in early fall and then till or mow it down in the spring and it can remain in place as a nitrogen-rich mulch.  

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Vetch Flowers

Crimson Clover & Red Clover – If allowed to grow to mid-May in the spring, will provide lots of nitrogen for the soil and provide a spring flower source for pollinators. Has a strong root system that helps reduce compaction.  

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Crimson Clover

Red Clover

 Resources

Field Peas – SARE https://www.sare.org/publications/managing-cover-crops-profitably/legume-cover-crops/field-peas/ 

Radish as a cover crop – Integrated Pest and Crop Management – UW–Madison https://ipcm.wisc.edu/blog/2011/04/radish-as-a-cover-crop/ 

University of Vermont – Winter Rye: A Reliable Cover Crop  https://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/winterrye.html 

Crimson Clove Cover Crop Fact Sheet https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/sites/default/files/2024-04/Crimson%20Clover%20Crop%20Fact%20Sheet.pdf  

Hairy Vetch – https://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/agricultural-land-and-environment/soil-nutrients/cover-crops/hairy_vetch_final.pdf  

Where are the weeds?

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

I was honoured to be part of the Lakefield Horticultural Society’s Garden Tour last summer, along with fellow MG Emma Murphy. It was a glorious day, and I loved the wide range of people who came to tour — each with different backgrounds and gardening styles.

The one question I fielded more than once is “where are the weeds”?

First of all, what’s a weed? To me, a weed is a plant that is growing where it is not wanted. My weeds could be your prized “Lubauchnia” (my hubby’s fabricated word for plants he doesn’t know the name of, which includes most plants).

Disclaimer: I didn’t inherit a bunch of the nasty weeds as there were no gardens at my house when we bought it 32 years ago. I do deal with the nasties at my gardening clients’ homes weekly, though!

For plants that are growing where they’re not wanted in my gardens, here’s what works for me:

  1. Don’t wait — smaller weeds are easier to get rid of than larger ones. This applies to spring and fall when we’re often not as diligent in getting outside. Sometimes it seems like a full grown weed can appear overnight during those seasons!
  2. Use mulch — I love my leaf mulch, and it seems to be very effective in suppressing weeds. A chipper makes short work of a pile of leaves. Mulch also conditions your soil and encourages earthworms and microorganisms, a win-win situation.
  3. It’s especially important to weed BEFORE the seed heads develop — you’ll save yourself a LOT of trouble getting them early in their life cycle.
  4. Cut back perennials after they’ve finished blooming, and check for the inevitable “weeds” underneath.
  5. Weed when the soil is moist, so that the maximum amount of root comes with the weed. Weeding in dry/hard soil results in small pieces of the root being left behind, which can usually regrow. I rarely weed without my trusty Lee Valley Root Knife — loosening the soil around the root before pulling.
  6. Watch newly planted perennials closely, especially natives. If they send out runners or if they are very proficient at casting seedlings, they get “shovel pruned” at my place. You can do you at your place.
  7. Lastly, “know your garden“. The more time you spend out there, the fewer undesirable plants there will be.

Simple knife-in then pulling works well for most regular weeds. However, some types such as japanese knotweed, lily of the valley, bindweed, cow vetch, DSV or creeping bellflower will require more diligence as their mother-roots are buried deep underground. Eradicating those weeds involves a lot of deep digging, soil sifting, and extreme diligence. There are actually support groups on Facebook for those truly invasive plants. May actually be easier to move!

Weeds that contain viable seeds should be “solarized” — left in a black plastic bag on the driveway for a couple weeks. The heat will fry the seeds. Dispose of the bag in the garbage. Don’t put seed heads attached into your composter.

There’s a new thought process that suggests that repetitively cutting difficult weeds at soil level is more effective than pulling them. It’s true that if it’s done often enough, those roots will eventually die for lack of nutrient supply from any top growth — however the weeds are usually much more persistent than the weeders! I read that cutting bindweed every 2 weeks will still take multiple years to make an impact. Sigh.

What are your tricks?

Winter Weeds

By Laura Gardner, Master Gardener

At this time of year there are two kinds of easily identifiable weeds: “winter annuals” and “biennials.” Biennials begin their lifecycle by germinating from seed in the first growing season. Winter annuals germinate from seed in the fall. They both form a vegetative basal rosette that lies in a suspended state over winter. The rosette protects what is known as the shoot apical meristem—stem cells of the plant that are responsible for the generation of shoots and leaves later in the spring. They will then grow more upright, flower, produce seeds, and then die, finishing their lifecycle. Some species may function as either a winter annual or a summer annual. Summer annuals germinate from seed in the spring and complete their life cycle that same year. One of the challenges of managing summer annuals is that they can reproduce more than once a year, potentially contributing to a large seed bank. Biennials generally take two years to complete their lifecycles. However, some so called biennial species may extend into subsequent growing seasons and be more like perennials if they have sufficient root energy stores and have not had the opportunity to flower and go to seed. This can happen if you do not remove at least the root crown of the plant when weeding.

In the Peterborough Public Library’s native plant garden, I took some photographs of some basal rosettes with the idea of identifying them later at home. Coincidentally, a copy of a book that I had on order for more than a year finally arrived: Weeds of the Northeast, 2nd Edition, by Joseph C. Neal et al. (Cornell University Press). In addition to the US Northeastern, Mid-Atlantic, and Upper Midwestern states, the book includes Southern Canada. In the 26 years since the first edition was published in 1997, more than 200 new species have been added. Many of these new species are invasive plants from the horticultural trade [e.g. Common Periwinkle (Vinca minor)]. It is strictly an identification guide and so if you are looking for weed management guidance, this type of information will need to be found elsewhere.

The book has a dichotomous key that is a bit different from others. It relies on identifying the plants through their vegetative parts such as leaf lobes, leaf arrangement, leaf margins, leaf hairs, etc., but not on their floral traits. It also does not lead you to an immediate single species identification, but rather enables you to compare your plant with several possible matches through their photos and descriptions. The photos are particularly valuable for identification purposes—showing plants in various stages of life—from seedling to maturity. The glossary is helpful for those that are unfamiliar with some of the botanical terms. This is a great resource for anyone to use to confirm the findings of a plant identification app.

Here are some of the weeds I found and identified using this guidebook:

Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris): A summer or winter annual.

Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)

Field Pennycress (Thlaspi arvense): A Summer or Winter Annual

Field Pennycress (Thlaspi arvense)

Canada Horseweed (Erigeron canadensis): Summer or Winter Annual

Canada Horseweed (Erigeron canadensis)

Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare) and Common Mullein (Verbascum thapsus): Biennials

Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare) and Common Mullein (Verbascum thapsus)

Ditch Lilies – a Cautionary Tale

By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Once upon a time there was a gardener who wanted something that grew quickly to screen a neighbour’s unsightly yard and house addition. She noticed that the ‘ditch lilies’ that surrounded her front yard tree (already there when she moved in) seemed to be pretty vigorous, so she planted a row of them between the yards, along with some small bridal wreath spirea (Spirae aprunifolia).

What she didn’t realize was that she had unleashed a horrible monster into her garden, one that quickly engulfed any other plants, sucked all the moisture out of the soil, and eventually killed most of those spirea.

Yes that gardener was me, many years ago, before I knew better and before I became a master gardener. So this year I knew I had to finally tackle the monster, remove all these plants, and reclaim this garden area. I knew how much work it would be (it took me three weekends this spring), but I got it done. Here’s my story…

Even though you see it growing in ditches around the province, Hemerocallis fulva (aka ditch lily, tawny daylily, orange daylily, tiger lily) is native to China, Japan and Korea and was introduced to North America in the early 19th century. They spread via seed and a network of tuberous roots, and can reproduce and proliferate from a small fragment left behind during removal. In 2020 the Ontario Invasive Plant Council added this plant to their invasives list, and their Grow Me Instead Guides offer some native alternatives to consider.

Screen capture from the Grow Me Instead Guide on Hemerocallis fulva

Garden bed, spring 2021

So this was my garden bed in May this year – just waiting to burst out and take over, again. Every single one of these plants had to be dug and lifted, making critically sure to get every last bulb. These photos show how many bulblets can be on just one stem – it was quite overwhelming to think of the job ahead.

All the plants that were dug out were put in black plastic garbage bags and left out in the hot sun beside our barn for a month. At last count I used 45 garbage bags, and they were a slog to carry as they were heavy!! Eventually they went to our rural dump, where the hot composting they do should ensure their demise.

Bit by bit, over three weekends, I got them all out. It was beneficial to have a dry spring, as it made digging them out a little easier. But still a workout!

Once everything was cleared out, I weeded the soil for anything else. All that remained were my tulips and a few hardy perennials that had been gasping for air for more than a decade.

Getting there.
Ready for a fresh load of soil.

With a fresh load of soil on top and a final check for bulblets done (and knowing that I would have missed a few), I put in some new plants, aiming for 50 percent native plants (those marked with a *). The area has both sun and shade spots so I needed to be careful with my choices.

For sun, Echinacea*, Gray-headed coneflower* (Ratibida pinnata), summer phlox (Phlox paniculata), American Witch Hazel* (Hamamelis virginiana), New England asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), Sedums, Switch grass* (Panicum virgatum), Lesser catmint (Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta), Black-eyed Susans* (Rudbeckia hirta), lupins, Giant fleeceflower (Persicaria polymorpha), Cyclindrical Blazing Star* (Liatris cylindracea)[once I can convince the bunnies to stop eating it – see green covers], and Virginia Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum virginianum).

For part shade/shade, Mourning Widow Geranium (Geranium phaeum), Purple Flowering Raspberry* (Rubus odoratus), hostas, Sensitive Fern* (Onoclea sensibilis), Virginia Waterleaf* (Hydrophyllum virginianum), Columbine (Aquilegia), Starry False Solomon’s Seal* (Maianthemum stellatum), Buttonbush* (Cephalanthus occidentalis), Zig-zag goldenrod* (Solidago flexicaulis) and Berry Bladder fern* (Cystopteris bulbifera). Also the infamous Outhouse Plant (Rudbeckia laciniata ‘Hortensia’), to be replaced with something else next year. Any suggestions for fast growing native shrubs that can handle part share welcome!

The garden bed needs time to fill in, so we’ll see what it looks like next year. In August I went back into the bed and sure enough, there were new ditch lilies growing in a few places. Remember it only takes one bulblet for them to grow. But half an hour later they were all gone as well.

I suspect I will on alert for the odd ditch lily plant showing up for the next few years, but I’m really proud to have removed this nasty invasive plant from my garden and rejuvenated it with native plants. And my two lovely sugar maple trees are glad for some more breathing room.

NOTE: The orange, single flower, diploid Hemerocallis fulva is the only daylily currently listed as invasive. Most daylily cultivars are diploid or triploid and do not spread invasively like the ditch lily.

Winter, when a gardener’s thoughts turn to Spring

By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

So now it’s wintertime. Our plants are sleeping quietly beneath a bed of wonderful white snow, and although we hibernate and rest to a degree, a gardener’s thoughts turn to springtime. I’m exploring some new ideas for my gardens for next spring, and thought I would share them with you.

Credit: Joseph Tychonievich; cartoon from https://www.facebook.com/FineGardeningMagazine/photos

No I didn’t get a greenhouse for Christmas…yet.

RAISED BEDS FOR GARDENING

But I do have a wonderful husband who knows how to make his wife – the Master Gardener – a happy person. His Christmas 2020 gift to me was to create some raised beds so we will be doing that this spring. I have been wanting to do raised beds for a few years since seeing Tara Nolan do a presentation at the Peterborough Garden Show, and I guess dropping those significant hints finally worked 😉

So we did a little research. Have you been thinking of creating raised beds for either vegetable or other gardening? They are great to extend the gardening season, be able to control soil quality, provide accessibility for older gardeners or those with disabilities, create a garden for special purposes (youngsters or horticultural therapy), increase yields, reduce weeds, and keep critters at bay. They also work well for condos and rooftops in our urban centres. Here’s some great sites I found for those interested in the idea.

One of my favourite gardeners with a similar climate to mine in Central Ontario – Erin Schanen in Southeastern Wisconsin (zone 5) – The Impatient Gardener. She has several good articles on growing in raised beds, from layout through to construction.

Tara Nolan’s book Raised Bed Revolution emerged at a time when this idea was gaining a lot of traction, and it’s an excellent source of information on size requirements for constructing raised beds, height suggestions, types of materials you can use, and creative tips for fitting the maximum garden capacity into small spaces—including vertical gardening. The Toronto Botanical Garden also wrote a great review. We also have a copy of Mel Bartholomew’s Square Foot Gardening, which focuses on growing more fresh produce in less space, and is very complementary to the raised bed philosophy.

For some general information on raised beds try here and here.

ORDERING YOUR SEEDS

Maybe it was just the crazy rush (and delay on delivery) for seeds this past spring, but we just ordered our vegetable and flower seeds for the 2021 season. There are lots of seed companies to choose from, but please try to shop from Canadian companies and especially those local to you. Although COVID-19 meant the cancellation of Peterborough’s wonderful Seedy Sunday, the organizers did post a list of all the vendors who would have been there, and it’s a great resource, as is the Seeds of Diversity site.

ESPALIERED FRUIT TREES

Espaliered fruit trees (espalier – to train a tree or shrub to grow flat against a support or wall) have been on my garden wish list for several years, and I missed an opportunity to pick up a mixed apple espalier tree several years ago which I have been kicking myself for ever since. I saw amazing espaliered fruit (English style) in the Victorian Kitchen Garden at Meadow View Gardens (just north of Cobourg) on a Master Gardener tour several years ago, and was entranced (well I’m entranced by owners Julie and Garry Edwards’ entire English-inspired gardens, but that’s another story).  

Although they can be any kind of fruit they are most often apples, and the key to doing it well is understanding how to prune the trees. Garden Therapy has an excellent article on how to grow these edible gardens, in ways that can accommodate both small spaces but be decorative. There are many different shapes that can be done – cordon (branches straight out to the sides), fan (branches fanning up and to the side), candelabra (like a cordon but the branches turn at a right angle to form the shape of a candelabra), lattice (multiple trees with crossing branches), and “Y” shapes. Maybe this is something you can try in your garden as well? The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs (OMAFRA) has a list of nut and fruit tree nurseries. I know one company I have dealt with is Silver Creek Nurseries in Wellesley, who specialize in fruit trees, and they offer the following advice on their website:

“Spur bearing varieties are recommended (rather than tip bearing), such as Cox’s Orange Pippin, Winesap, Fuji, Belle de Boskoop, Calville Blanc, Sweet 16 and many more. Apple and pears are generally the easiest fruits to train, but other species may be espaliered with varying degrees of difficulty.”

Grow a Little Fruit Tree: Simple Pruning Techniques for Small-Space, Easy-Harvest Fruit Trees is also recommended as a resource (although I haven’t read it).

I’ll be in touch with them once spring rolls around, which should be in 82 days or so (but who’s counting?). Enjoy your winter garden dreaming, and spring will be here soon enough.

Perennial Gardening with Less Effort

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Are you spending more time working in your perennial garden this hot, dry summer than enjoying it?  You may want to consider some of these low maintenance tips for fall renovations and next year’s plans.

What does low maintenance mean? Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance and low maintenance is not for lazy gardeners. Low maintenance means making wise plant decisions and doing your homework up front, so you don’t end up with a flower garden that requires tons of work to look good.

Getting to the point of ‘lower maintenance’, however, will be tough.  Prepping a new garden is pure slogging, involving wheelbarrowing compost and mulch, digging & then digging some more.  If your current reality involves plants that were plentiful at your neighbour’s house or at a recent plant sale, it could involve even more digging to get rid of persistent roots.

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Well behaved full sun perennials in the author’s garden

However, you will love the end result of an easy to care for garden if you follow some of the following suggestions.

The first rule of thumb in creating a low maintenance flower garden is to keep it small. Don’t go crazy when you’re picking out plants; stick with 3 or 4 groupings of 3 of the same perennial, and then fill in with annuals if you wish.

The most important tip of all in creating a low maintenance flower bed is mulch. Mulch is a gardener’s best friend. After planting your flower garden and watering it well, always apply a 2 – 3 inch layer of a good, shredded mulch. If you can’t afford mulch right away, shredded leaves and untreated grass clippings will do the trick. Mulch is your #1 defense against weeds and it helps the soil retain moisture so that your plants don’t dry out. Skipping mulch in a low maintenance flower garden is not an option.

Another important step to keeping your flower garden low maintenance is to install an edging of some type. Allowing the grass to creep into the garden, or allowing the garden to creep into the grass are both problem situations that will require a lot of work to deal with.

Choose and plant flowers that:

  • aren’t vigorous, invasive or self-seeding spreaders (avoid “creeping” anything!
  • aren’t too picky about the soil
  • will survive a wee bit of neglect
  • are relatively drought tolerant
  • don’t require deadheading or minimal deadheading (removal of spent flowers)
  • don’t require staking
  • are not prone to pest problems or diseases.

A good nursery or garden centre with knowledgeable staff is a great place to start — and we are blessed with some great ones in the Peterborough area!

The best easy-care perennials for sun or part sun: Clumping ornamental grasses, Coneflower, Salvia, Daylilies, Black-eyed Susan, Shasta Daisies, Veronica, Lavender, Peony, Blanket Flower, Perennial Geranium (cranesbill), Russian Sage, Penstemon, Sedum Stonecrop (there are some new cultivars out that are amazing, like Firecracker or Lime Zinger), Autumn Joy Sedum, Hens & chicks (Sempervivum).

Low maintenance perennials for shade: Hosta, Ferns (not ostrich), Coral bells, Barrenwort (epimedium), Astilbe, Hellebore, Brunnera, Primula.

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Well behaved shade perennials in the author’s garden

The goal is to get to the point where you only need to set aside 15 or 20 minutes every couple of days to weed and deadhead your plants. Deadheading also reduces the number of “volunteer” plants that you will get as the seeds will also be removed. You can combine weeding with deadheading and get the chores done at the same time. This will keep your flower garden looking beautiful and will help the plants produce more blooms.