Category Archives: Planting

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Botanical Names, Butterflies and Moths, Invasive, Native Plants, New Gardens, Planting, Shade Gardening, Sun Gardening, Wildflowers, Winter Sowing

Beware those Wildflower Mixes!

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    By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

    The Oxford Dictionary defines “wildflower” as “a flower of an uncultivated variety or a flower growing freely without human intervention.”  It has nothing to do with the species’ native range, its benefits for pollinators, or its impacts on ecosystems. A “wildflower” could be native, non-native or at worst invasive.

    Last year at this time, I wrote a blog post about roadside wildflowers. Most of these flowers (like chicory [Cichorium intybus] on the left or Oxeye Daisy [Leucanthemum vulgare]) are non-native opportunists from Europe or Asia that colonize quickly on disturbed sites or ditches and wetlands and outcompete native species, but lots of people assume they are native because they’re everywhere along roadsides (I did for years!).

    The bottom line? Wildflower does not equal native.

    So, if you want to buy a wildflower mix to create a long-term habitat for native pollinators, beneficial insects, and bees in your gardens, the mixes found at big box stores and large nurseries are probably not the mixes you want.

    Why the Label can Mislead

    A lot of retail “wildflower” mixes are designed for fast colour. They focus on non-native annual flowers, which bloom quickly and beautifully in the first season but fail to support local pollinators (and isn’t that the point?), or can even become invasive.

    While mixes don’t need to be exclusively comprised of species native to Ontario to provide good habitat for pollinators and beneficial insects (although that’s the best case scenario), they shouldn’t be invasive and should be perennials so that your garden continues to look good year after year.

    Why is this Important?

    Pollinators need more than flowers that simply look pretty. They need plants that fit local conditions and provide food, shelter, and nesting support over time – that are beneficial to the local ecosystem.

    What’s the biggest red flag? Seed mixes that only provide the common names of species instead of the scientific (Latin) names. While common names can be easier to remember and pronounce, they also vary by region, and one plant can have several different common names. This can cause confusion about what the actual species is.

    A Case in Point

    Last year at the PMG A Day for Gardeners a lady approached me with a large bag of pollinator seed mix as I was working on the advice table. She wanted to know if it was good. There were no Latin names (first red flag) so I asked her to leave it with me to investigate.

    After checking as best I could we determined that almost 80 percent of the seeds were not native and were annuals. She planned on returning the bag to the store.

    The Problem with Mixed Seed Packets

    • Big companies that sell across Canada create one seed mix to sell across the entire country but what might be native in Alberta probably won’t be in Ontario
    • Seeds have different germination requirements so you may find some seeds don’t germinate at all
    • Different seeds may not grow well together
    • Some seeds may not like your site conditions and others may become dominant

    The worst problem is if they contain non-native, invasive seeds.

    Let’s look at an example. McKenzie Wildflowers Pollinator Mix.

    1. Only five flowers native to Ontario (*) and all less than 5% of the mix except for the Purple Coneflower, which is 12.67% and Lanceleaf coreopsis, which is 6.33%
    2. The first three flowers, which comprise over 42% of the mix, are all non-native
    3. Your seeds are only 14% of the mix – the rest is vermiculite (filler)

    Here’s a full breakdown.

    Better Ways to Choose

    The best seed mixes are transparent. They tell you exactly which species are included, how much of each is in the packet, and whether the plants are native to your region. Regional native mixes can be useful, especially when they include a balance of annuals and perennials and are clearly suited to your regional climate.

    If you’re serious about supporting biodiversity, the most important thing you can do is choose seeds that are native to your specific region.

    I’ve seen several companies create better wildflower mixes in the past few years, including Northern Wildflowers, Native Plants in Claremont, OSC and, for large projects, St Williams Ecology Centre. I’m sure there are others I have missed so be sure to comment if you know any!

    One key thing to remember with native plant seeds is that most need winter stratification (a cool, wet natural dormancy period over winter) to germinate well. That means that direct garden sowing should take place in the late fall after the first frost (mid-September to November, depending on your region), not in the spring. If seeds can’t be stratified, many will not germinate until the following spring and germination rates may be slightly lower.

    A Simple Rule for Gardeners

    If your goal is to truly help pollinators, choose local native plants first and sow your seeds in the fall for best germination. Avoid mystery mixes (especially those with only common names), check the label closely, and be cautious of bags that promise an instant meadow without giving details. Colourful flowers are nice, but real pollinator support comes from the right plants in the right place, and that doesn’t happen overnight.

    Choose the Right Seeds – Go Native, Not Just “Wild”


    Additional Reading

    Vegetable Gardening, Planting

    Fresh Crops for Fall: Make the Most of Your Garden This Season

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    By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

    It’s mid-July in my Zone 5b garden, and it’s hot. My zucchini and cucumbers have finally started producing after a cold, challenging spring, tomatoes are beginning to ripen, and I’m harvesting bush beans by the handful. While it feels like peak gardening season, I’m already planning my next harvest. Mid-summer is the perfect time to think about succession planting – a simple way to keep your garden productive well into the fall.

    Succession planting is the practice of sowing new crops as others finish, allowing you to make the most of your growing season and garden space.

    In Peterborough, Ontario, our growing season averages about 150 frost-free days, leaving plenty of time for another crop before fall.

    What I’m harvesting: Garlic

    By the end of July, I’m pulling my garlic crop and curing it before storage, leaving a large empty patch in my garden.

    What I’m succession planting: Bush Beans

    Bush beans have a short seeding to harvest window, 50 to 60 days, meaning I can plant another round where my garlic has been pulled and get a harvest before first frost.

    What I’m harvesting: Zucchini and Cucumbers

    My cucurbit crop is usually showing signs of stress in late summer, and I will often pull plants that are no longer producing.

    What I’m succession planting: Root Vegetables

    The empty space left by my cucumber and zucchini plants can be filled by fall root crops like beets, carrots and turnips. These crops can often take a few light frosts before being harvested.

    What I’m harvesting: Leafy Greens

    Lettuce is notorious for bolting in summer heat, becoming bitter and unappetizing. Time to pull your sad lettuce plants to make room.

    What I’m succession planting: Brassicas

    Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower thrive in cool weather. Sowing them now means that you can have a bountiful fall harvest that will easily withstand a few light frosts.

    A few things to remember when succession planting:

    Your newly available garden space will more than likely be depleted of nutrients and require a boost. Before planting a new crop, amend the soil with compost to support healthy growth.

    New plants will need protection from pests that have already established. Be sure to cover brassicas to protect them from cabbage moth damage, and inspect your garden every few days for insect and disease damage.

    Seeds planted in mid-summer can dry out more quickly than spring plantings. Keep your soil consistently moist until seedlings are established, and use a layer of mulch once plants emerge to retain moisture.

    Always check the days to harvest information on seed packets. If you’re planting seeds in mid-July and your first frost is typically October 1st, you have about 70 growing days available. As long as the plant you choose matures in less than 70 days, you should be safe to plant.

    Don’t think of July as the beginning of the end of your garden. Think of it as the beginning of your fall harvest. With a little planning and the right crops, you can continue harvesting fresh vegetables well into the fall.

    Resources for further reading on succession planting:

    Ontario Planting Calendar

    Seeds for Successional Planting

    Succession Planting Chart

    Advice, Links, Native Plants, Perennials, Planting

    Wash the Roots, Protect Your Garden: A Simple Step That Stops Invasive Pests

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    By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

    This May, gardeners will once again flock to community plant sales in search of bargain perennials and unusual finds. These sales support worthwhile causes and help plants find new homes—but they can also unintentionally introduce invasive species into your garden. Before planting that exciting new addition, consider one simple precaution: root washing.

    Why Root Wash New Plants?

    Many gardeners have unknowingly introduced invasive plants through seeds hidden in the soil of donated or purchased plants. An even greater concern today is the spread of invasive jumping worms that I wrote about in a previous blog. Their tiny (1 – 3 mm), soil-coloured cocoons—about the size of a sesame seed—can easily hitchhike in the soil around plant roots.

    Since 2016, jumping worms have been confirmed at 63  locations across southern and eastern Ontario (EDDMaps 2026). Although the adult worms die during winter, their cocoons survive and hatch over the next one or more years (Dobson et al. 2022). Dr. Michael McTavish, who has confirmed many infestations in Ontario, notes that by the time gardeners notice the tell-tale “coffee ground” soil texture or spot an actual worm, the infestation has usually been present for years (McTavish, 2025 pers. comm.). 

    In gardens, jumping worms quickly consume organic matter in the upper soil layer resulting in soil drying, erosion, loss of nutrients, and ultimately decreased plant growth. Root washing greatly reduces the risk of introducing jumping worms, invasive seeds, and other unwanted organisms in your garden.

    Root Washing at the Lakefield Horticultural Society Potting Day

    The Lakefield Horticultural Society holds a Potting Day several weeks before its annual plant sale so divisions can become established before sale day. This year, we added root washing to the process.

    Our revised assembly line included:

    1. Plant division
    2. Soil removal
    3. Root washing
    4. Potting into clean containers with sterile soil
    5. Labelling
    6. Moving plants outdoors onto tarmac

    Fortunately, we worked in a cool, shaded area, since root washing is not recommended in strong sun or hot weather.

    How to Root Wash Plants

    Step 1: Remove Excess Soil

    Gently tap plant roots against the inside of a garbage bin lined with a heavy-duty plastic bag to dislodge as much soil as possible.

    Step 2: Rinse the Roots

    Swish the roots in a pail of cold water, then transfer them to a second pail of clean water and repeat.

    An old toothbrush proved surprisingly useful for gently removing stubborn soil particles from roots and iris rhizomes.

    Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Root divisions in the red bin are gently tapped against the inside of a garbage bin to remove as much soil as possible. Then the division is successively swished in two pails of cold water, removing more soil particles.

     Step 3: Final Rinse

    Use a gentle spray of water over a sink with a drain catcher—or over another pail—to remove the remaining soil particles. The plant can then be potted in sterile soil or planted directly into the garden.

    Hostas washed particularly well, while larger rhubarb divisions and some columbine cultivars struggled after treatment.

    Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Final rinsing of roots to remove remaining soil particles.

    Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA A freshly root-washed hosta division ready for potting (that is sterile potting soil on the tarp and in the bin below the table).

    What We Learned

    A few practical lessons emerged from the day:

    • Root washing did not appreciably slow the potting process. Nine volunteers root washed more than 200 plants in 2.5 hours. It was not nearly as time consuming as we expected.
    • Root washing is easier for some plants than others.
    • Hostas tolerated the process very well; rhubarb and columbine cultivars did not.
    • Used toothbrushes are excellent tools for removing stubborn soil.
    • One volunteer root washed plants at home before arriving, leaving the soil behind in her own garden—an approach we may encourage in future years.

    Safe Disposal of Soil and Wash Water

    The removed soil was collected in heavy-duty plastic bags and disposed of through municipal waste collection. Surprisingly little soil accumulated after processing approximately 250 plants.

    As rinse water became muddy, fresh pails replaced dirty ones. The used water was allowed to sit for several days so soil particles could settle to the bottom. Clear water was then poured into the municipal sewer system for treatment, while the remaining sediment could either be solarized (Master Gardeners of Ontario 2022) or disposed of through municipal waste collection.

    Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Pails with remaining sediment. We used about a dozen pails, switching ones with dirty water and others with clean water regularly.

    Caution is advised when root washing in rural areas as I couldn’t find any information on whether jumping worm cocoons can survive in untreated waste systems.

    Root Washing Benefits More Than Perennials

    For trees and shrubs, root washing has benefits beyond decreasing the risk of invasive organisms. Removing potting soil encourages roots to grow outward into the surrounding native soil rather than remaining confined to the original potting mix. The result is better long-term establishment and survival (Chalker-Scott 2020).

    Root washing also allows gardeners to identify and correct root problems such as girdling or spiralling, before planting. Woody roots can be pruned so they spread outward like spokes on a wheel, while fibrous roots can simply be straightened by hand (Hopton-Villalobos 2021).

    Even nursery-grown perennials benefit. Potting mixes containing perlite and vermiculite drain quickly and are ideal for greenhouse production, but roots sometimes fail to expand into heavier garden soils after transplanting. By removing the potting mix and “mudding in” the roots directly into garden soil, plants often establish more successfully—and gardeners avoid introducing invasive pests at the same time (Wagar 2025).

    A Small Step that Protects Your Garden

    Root washing may add a little extra time to planting, but it is one of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your garden and local ecosystems from invasive species. As there is currently no proven treatment for jumping worm infestations, prevention is the gardener’s best defence.

    Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Some of the potted plants two weeks after root washing. Clockwise from top left: Black-eyed Susan cultivar, Golden Tiarella Hosta, Armeria, and Columbine cultivar (these did not root wash well as can be seen in the pot on the left and several others not shown).

    REFERENCES:

    Chalker-Scott, L. 2020. Root Washing: Why and How to Wash Roots. Fine Gardening.https://www.finegardening.com/article/root-washing-why-and-how-to-wash-roots

    Dobson, A., J. Görres, J. Richardson, A. Kostromytska. and T. Simisky. 2022. Invasive Jumping Worm Frequently Asked Questions. University of Massachusetts Amherst. https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/landscape/fact-sheets/invasive-jumping-worm-frequently-asked-questions

    EDDMaps. 2026. Distribution of Jumping Worms (Family Megascolecidae) in southern Ontario. https://www.eddmaps.org/distribution/viewmap.cfm?sub=91199

    Hopton-Villalobos, J. 2021. Wash First: Successful Strategies for Replanting Natives. Florida Native Plant Society. https://www.cupletfern.org/articles/wash-first-successful-strategies-for-replanting-natives

    Master Gardeners of Ontario. 2022. Invasive Jumping Worms – Information for Home Gardeners. https://gardenontario.org/wp-content/uploads/JWS-Information-for-Gardeners.pdf

    McTavish, M. Pers. Comm. 2025. Formerly Postdoctoral Fellow with the Daniels Faculty of Forestry, now Conservation Scientist with rare Charitable Research Reserve.

    Wagar, Beverley. 2025. “Mudding In” and other planting tips. 1000 Islands Master Gardeners. https://1000islandsmastergardeners.ca/2025/11/13/mudding-in-and-other-planting-tips/

    RELATED:

    Act Now to Keep Jumping Worms Out!

    The Myth of Fragile Roots Planting Trees and Shrubs

    Ayad, N. 2026. Why Earthworms aren’t always good for the soil. CBC Ideas episode. https://www.cbc.ca/listen/live-radio/1-23-ideas/clip/16206081-why-earthworms-always-good-soil-planet

    Herbs, Planting, Seeds, Websites

    Growing and Using Culinary Herbs part 2

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    By Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

    Growing and Using Culinary Herbs part 1 is from August 2025.

    Let’s look at where to get herb seeds and plants.

    Richters in Goodwood is one of the largest herb growers in North America. You can learn a lot from just reading their extensive catalogue.  Their greenhouses are well worth a visit and Goodwood is only about an hour’s drive from Peterborough. They carry dried herbs as well as plants and seeds. Richters is open year round; check their website for days and hours. Many local nurseries carry a good selection of seeds and plants.

    Start your seeds under lights in February/March e.g. basil, sage, thyme, lovage and harden them off slowly. You can direct seed outdoors once the soil is warm enough. Parsley seeds have a hard coating and it is a good idea to soak them overnight first. You will need to sow coriander seeds every month if you want a continuous supply of cilantro leaves.

    Many herbs can be successfully propagated by taking hardwood cuttings. Rosemary works well this way if you take the cuttings in mid summer to mid fall. Take the cutting just below a node, dip it in hormone powder and insert several cuttings into a soilless mix. Cover with a plastic bag and open every few days to clear some of the moisture. They will root in 4 – 6 weeks.

    Lots of herbs benefit from dividing in the spring. Good candidates are parsley, chives, lemon balm, oregano and thymes. Woody herbs such as sage and thymes can be layered by pegging a stem into the soil. Check for roots in a month or so and once rooted they can be cut from the mother plant and replanted.

    Many perennial herbs such as lavender, hyssop and oregano can be lightly pruned in the fall and harder in the spring. I don’t prune sage until after it has finished flowering as the bees  love the purple flowers.

    Picking the growing tips frequently encourages fresh new growth and gives you lots of herbs for cooking. Lovage and sorrel should be cut back hard after flowering to encourage new bushy growth. The best time to harvest for peak flavour is in the morning before the essential oils have evaporated. Leaves should be young and before the plant flowers.

    There are several options to preserve your herbs for culinary use. Herbs such as basil, chives, chervil and parsley work well finely chopped and put in ice cube trays with a little olive oil or water. Freeze and use them to pop into stews and soups.

    If you have a warm, dark, well ventilated space , tie the herbs loosely and hang upside down. Larger leaves can be dried on a mesh screen. Dehydrators are great or you can use a microwave on a low setting. Once thoroughly dry, store in labelled glass or ceramic containers away from the light.

    Garlic dill pickles are easy to make and make great gifts. Pestos and vinegars are a great way to use your herbs. Vinegars are simple  to make and tarragon, thyme and basil are especially good and will last a long time. I use herbal vinegars for salad dressings and to pep up soups and stews.

    Herbal butters are straight forward  to make but give a real lift to vegetables, grilled meat, stuffings, or pasta. Finely chop 4 to 5 tablespoons of fresh herbs to 8 oz of softened butter and blend well. Place in cling film and form into a long rectangle. Chill, cut into lengths and wrap tightly in foil, label and freeze. You can then slice off any amount that you want.

    I have just touched on the many wonderful culinary herbs that you can grow. Have fun, experiment and enjoy the wonderful smells and tastes of fresh herbs.

    Further information:

    Richters   www.richters.com

    Taste of Home  www.tasteofhome.com

    The Complete Book of Herbs – Lesley Bremner

    Advice, Planting, Shrubs & Trees

    Where’s the Flare?

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    By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

    Let’s talk root flares on trees.  The root flare is the part of the tree where the trunk turns into the roots and the root flare needs to be at the soil surface. 

    Photo:  Root flare of a young Ironwood tree, Ostrya virginiana in author’s garden.

    People are often counseled that plants should be planted in the ground at the same level they were planted in the pot.  In my tree and shrub planting experience I have usually found the root flare submerged in the potting medium.  If I planted at this same level, it would mean their roots would be buried too deeply.  Roots need oxygen and when they don’t get enough, they are not efficient at taking up water or nutrients which thereby starves the rest of the plant.  Some trees can struggle along for a number of years but extra soil on top of fine roots can mean an early death sentence for your tree.  It gives some truth to the adage “plant it high it won’t die, plant it low, it won’t grow”.

    Photo:  This shrub’s root flare was buried approximately 9 cm in potting medium.

    When I bring home a woody plant, I like to get the potting medium off the roots by root washing the root ball.  Root washing is a process very well described by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott.  https://gardenprofessors.com/why-root-washing-is-important-an-illustrated-cautionary-tale/  It is helpful to have a dormant plant (although I don’t always practice what I preach) and to do this on a cool day in the shade.  I put the root ball in my wheelbarrow and use the hose to rinse/blast the potting medium off.   Sometimes this can take quite a while!  Then I look at the root ball to establish where the root flare is and to also check for and remove problematic circling and adventitious roots (roots that grow from non-root plant tissues such as stems).  When planting I backfill with the soil removed from the planting hole and mulch with a wood chip mulch.  It is best not to mulch with sheet mulching like cardboard or paper and never, never, never with landscape fabric.

    Providing the best planting situation for your new tree or shrub will hopefully promote the best growth possible.

    Photo: Picture of a perfect flare on a deciduous tree.

    Resource

    Chalker-Scott, L.  How Plants Work (2015).  Timber Press Inc, Portland, Oregon.

    All photos by Lois Scott

    Garden Cleanup, Perennials, Planting

    The Great Divide

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    By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

    Springtime gardening comes with a burst of energy, an unavoidable tendency to order too many seeds, buy too many plants and generally underestimate our own energy and garden space. Fall gardening, on the other hand, allows us to work with past season successes and failures fresh in our memories. It’s much more measured — the best season for gardening, in many respects.

    Fall is the perfect time to divide perennials. There are several reasons to divide perennials: Mature perennials often begin to die out from the centre, they might be in the wrong spot, or they have gotten too big where they are. For many perennials, division is a straightforward way to create more plants with minimal effort and cost. Many perennials, such as Hostas and Daylilies are good candidates for fall division.  Division should take place early enough in the season to allow the roots to establish before it gets too cold. Late-blooming perennials such as Asters and Chrysanthemums are best divided in spring. And some plants, such as Poppies, don’t divide well at all.

    Through this year’s growing season, I identified three plants in my garden ready for division:  a hosta, a goat’s beard, and a spikenard.

    Hosta is a tough plant, it requires some muscle to get out of the ground and split but is also tough enough to withstand the move.  Despite the heat and drought this year, my hosta was in fine shape so I decided to dig up the plant without removing the leaves. (If it were later in the season, or if the plant were suffering, I would cut away many of the leaves above the crown and dig up the root without leaves.) The plant was well established, enough that I had to push the spade around the plant a few times, pushing it deeper each time and with some tearing and snapping of roots.  In the end, the whole clump came out fairly easily. Sometimes there is an obvious small or ‘baby’ clump that can be broken or cut off easily. In other cases, the roots can be plied apart with a garden fork and, when it’s really tough,  a sharp spade or knife cut into the middle of the clump is easiest. Broken or damaged leaves are removed and the new plants are planted at the same level they had been growing. Care should be taken to ensure all roots are under soil and the plant is watered generously for the next weeks.

    The Goat’s Beard (Aruncus dioicus) is simply too big for its current location, overdue for division. Because of its size – it would be very difficult to dig and divide the plant without breaking the stems – I cut back all the stems to about 6 – 8” above the soil level. With a bit of digging, the clump came out fairly easily. I shook off a lot of the soil making it easier to divide into two substantial clumps, each with good roots. If the centre of an old perennial has died out, the living clumps around the edges can be dug out and replanted, the old clump in the centre discarded. Each clump gets replanted at the same depth and watered well. Smaller perennials, such as perennial Geranium (Geranium), Coral Bells (Heuchera),  Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina)  can be dug up gently and teased apart to produce new small plants, each to be planted and watered carefully.

    Sun King Golden Japanese Spikenard (Aralia cordata) is a real showstopper in my garden. It loves where it’s growing but it is far too big. As with the Goat’s Beard, I cut off all the stems, then tackled the root clump. It is a beast of a plant, requiring lots of digging and hefting to get it out of the ground. Once out, I washed away the soil with high pressure water from the garden hose, then plunged the spade into the almost woody root. It took a lot of force and pushing to split. I only want a small clump so I worked with the spade to pull apart several sections, planting one and giving the rest to friends.

    The red circles indicate ‘eyes’, this is where there will be new growth in the spring, each root clump should have several eyes.

    Small clump of spikenard planted!

    References:

    Toronto Master Gardeners, Gardening Guide

    Fine Gardening, Gardening Basics, 10 Tips on Dividing Perennial Plants

    Iowa State University How to Divide and Transplant Perennials

    Advice, Garden Design, Greenhouses, Herbs, Planting, Vegetable Gardening

    Cold Frames – A Mini Greenhouse in Your Garden

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    by Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

    I’m sipping my coffee on the deck, overlooking my vegetable garden. Everything shows signs of fall. The onions and garlic have been harvested. The green beans are finished for the season and are ready for the compost pile. The zucchini and summer squash are suffering from powdery mildew, and the tomatoes are carrying the last few fruits of the season. Although summer is ending, the fall gardening season is just beginning – and I have a secret weapon: a cold frame.

    Why Cold Frames Work

    Several leafy green vegetables can survive and even thrive in cooler temperatures. Kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, and spinach produce sugars that lower the freezing point of water in their cells, protecting them from damaging ice crystals. These crops tend to bolt in the heat of summer but thrive in the crisp days of fall. Still, even hardy plants will eventually succumb to our harsh Canadian winters.

    That’s where a cold frame comes in – you can significantly extend your growing season with one. Imagine brushing snow off your cold frame in November to harvest fresh kale for a salad!

    Cold frame basics (Source: “Large Cold Frame” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    What Is a Cold Frame?

    A cold frame is a low, bottomless structure with a transparent lid that protects plants from wind and cold. The lid lets sunlight in, while the insulated base traps heat and creates a microclimate that can run several degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Ventilation is key – open the lid on sunny days to prevent overheating and ensure proper airflow.

    Cold frames come in various styles depending on budget, materials, and space.

    Types of Cold Frames

    Traditional Cold Frame
    Built from wood with an angled, hinged top – this could use glass, polycarbonate, or heavy plastic. They can be permanent or portable and built with reclaimed or new materials. An old window makes a perfect lid.

    Straw Bale Cold Frame
     Stack straw bales to form a frame and cover with windows or plastic sheeting. Straw provides insulation and can be reused or composted in spring.

    Hot Bed
     A sunken bed filled with compostable material such as horse manure, straw, or poultry bedding, covered with soil and topped with a cold frame. As the material decomposes, it generates heat, warming the soil below.

    Traditional cold frame using wood and an old window (Source:“cold-frame-in-winter” by The Art of Doing Stuff, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
    Straw bale cold frame (Source: “Quick coldframe, straw bales and old windows” by Irene Kightley, CC BY-SA 2.0 – Flickr)

    Need a visual? Watch DIY Cold Frame • Easy How‑to Tutorial with Niki Jabbour to see an easy cold frame build using recycled materials—great for Canadian gardeners. Or for a classic approach, check out How to Build a Cold Frame | This Old House, a clear demo using a salvaged window lid.

    Tips for Success

    • Timing is everything: Sow spinach, kale, or lettuce in late August or early September to harvest well into late fall – or even December, depending on snow cover.
    • Ventilation matters: Even on sunny October days, closed frames can overheat. Keep lids open when needed.
    • Spring bonus: In March or April, use your cold frame to start early crops like lettuce or radishes, or to harden off seedlings before planting.

    The Quiet Magic of Cold Frames

    No matter which style you choose, a cold frame is a valuable addition to any garden. It helps you garden later into the season and gives you a head start in spring.

    With one simple structure, you don’t have to say goodbye to your garden when frost arrives. Picture a crisp November morning—brushing snow from the lid and harvesting fresh spinach for breakfast. That’s the quiet magic a cold frame brings to your backyard.

    Banner photo “Large Cold Frame With Props” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0

    Herbs, Perennials, Planting

    Growing and using culinary herbs

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    by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

    Do you want to put some ‘oomph” in your meals? Culinary herbs are the answer.

    After my husband was diagnosed with heart disease, I needed to rethink some of the rich, fatty meals that were full of salt. Luckily I had two friends who had a small herb business and were willing to share their expertise with me.

    Master Gardener Christine Freeburn wrote a great blog in June on herbs in containers. She gave us lots of good ideas and I will take this a step further. I will look specifically at growing and using culinary herbs in the garden. I love Chris’ idea of planting herb containers close to the kitchen for accessibility.

    While many herbs will flourish in pots let’s look at perennial herbs and how to use them. Specifically, I am going to write about  more unusual herbs and what to do with them.

    Most herbs are fairly easy to grow as they don’t require a rich soil and most bugs don’t bother them due to their strong smell. Several herbs such as oregano, sage and lavender have a Mediterranean origin and love hot sunny weather. There a few such as chives, parsley and lovage that prefer partial shade.  It really important to provide herbs with good drainage, they hate having wet feet. If you have heavy soil you can mix in some grit when you are planting.

    Lavender loves hot sunny weather

    We all know the sweet basil that can be found in pots in grocery stores but why not try dark opal, lemon or Thai basil? I love to grow calendula and use the petals in salads, fish and rice.

    Dark opal basil
    Calendula

    Lovage is a tall herb that grows well in this area and has a strong celery flavour, useful when you forget to buy celery.

    Lovage

    Salad burnet is another of my favourites for  salads and flavouring butters. It has a nutty, cucumber taste.

    Salad burnet

    Winter savory is a perennial that has a more intense flavour than summer savory. I use it to make stuffing, vinegars and jellies.

    Winter savory (source: Friviere on WikiCommons)

    Sweet cicely is an interesting , tall plant with many uses.  Use the  leaves in soups and omelettes and  the seeds in fruit salads. Cook the young leaves with tart fruit such as rhubarb to reduce acidity and the need for extra sugar.

    Sweet cicely

    Young sorrel leaves are great in soups and salads. Lavender is an amazing herb that reduces stress but is also used by cooks in cookies, jams and jellies.

    Sorrel

    Of course there are many herbs that can be dried and used to make tea. These include lemon balm, anise hyssop and bergamot and there are many more. Although I was born and raised in England I am not a regular tea lover but I do like to experiment with other herbs.

    Anise hyssop

    I have only touched sparingly on a few of the less well known herbs and their culinary uses.

    Part two of this blog (you’ll have to wait until November 17th) will cover where to buy unusual seeds and plants, taking cuttings, layering, harvesting , drying, freezing, pestos and vinegars.

    More info on how to use herbs in November!

    Further information

    Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs

    The Complete Book of Herbs (by Lesley Bremness)

    How to Grow Herbs

    Richters Herbs

    Drought, Garden rejuvenation, Perennials, Planting, Sedums

    An Overlooked Group of Plants

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    By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

    Now that the hot, humid days of summer are upon us, it is time to appreciate some of the unsung heroes of the garden such as the low growing sedums (aka stonecrops) and hens and chicks (Sempervivum). 

    These are a large and diverse grouping of plants known for their thick, fleshy engorged parts that retain water making them incredibly drought resistant.  They are found on every continent but Antarctica and likely in all of our gardens.  Give them sunshine with good drainage and they will reward you for years to come.

    Often, these plants are used as groundcovers playing second fiddle to our larger, showier specimens or artfully placed in rock gardens.  Why not consider bringing them out to centerstage? Their varied texture and colours can create a unique look. The drought resistant nature of the plants is on trend with our warming climate. 

    sedum garden

    Some years ago, I redid a south facing bed entirely in sedums and hens and chicks. The previous occupants were failing to meet the challenges of the climate. It has proven to be a bit of trial and error with some varieties working well, some being too aggressive necessitating their removal and some succumbing to winter kill.  The bed is still a work in progress.

    Initially, I did lose plants to rot as the existing soil was rich and covered with cedar bark mulch.  After amending with a poorer quality of soil scavenged from the shoulder of my road as well as implementing the use of HPB (high performance bedding) as mulch, the plants took off. HPB is a type of washed, crushed, angular limestone chip that does not contain fines or dust, typically around 1/4 inch in size.  It is commonly used as a base material for patios, walkways, and other landscaping projects. It’s known for its excellent drainage properties and makes a lovely stone mulch.  As the plants grew, they expanded happily into the HPB.

    rocks

    Other applications for these plants include their use in containers.  I am fond of planting up an old boot for placement on the porch stairs.  The succulents do well and take little care.  At the end of the season, plants are tucked back into garden to overwinter.

    More recently, specialized companies have been producing “sedum mats” for use on green roofs and on landscape applications.  Sedum mats are a mixture of hardy sedum species grown in 1.5 inch thick soil-less media on a biodegradable coconut fibre base.  These mats are cut and rolled up like sod and are laid out in a similar fashion to provide a continuous green covering.  They can tolerate light foot traffic and are often used in areas where conventional garden beds would prove difficult (rocky areas with little soil depth, accents around hardscaping, boulevards). 

    Sedums and sempervivum are the ultimate in low maintenance, drought tolerant plants that are visually striking and unique. There are far too many varieties to list here but some that I have found attractive, hardy and would recommend growing are Sunsparkler Firecracker, Sunsparkler Lime Zinger, Angelina, Dragons Blood, Voodoo and John Creech.  Some nurseries specialize in these species and have a large selection to choose from. No need to worry about planting these in the heat or having to baby them along.  I have some empty spots to fill so I think I will be heading out to my favorite nursery near Bobcaygeon to acquire a few new varieties.

    And thanks to Master Gardener MJ Pilgrim for the awesome photo of her hens and chicks in the vintage iron.

    Advice, Annuals, Disease, Forcing Plants, Planting, Seeds

    Horticultural Hiccups

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    By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

    At times, these blogs seem a little like an Instagram Post. We show our successes in the hope of inspiring you and in turn, provide something of value to you.  However, that can be a little intimidating to less experienced gardeners. Today, I thought I would showcase some of my 2025 failures (so far).

    Lisianthus germination (or not)

    Lisianthus

    This one is a heartbreaker! In January, I had almost 100% germination of my lisianthus. A couple weeks after germination, they looked like this.

    What happened? After reading somewhere that cinnamon prevents growth of algae, this grower overzealously applied cinnamon (I had purchased a large bottle at Costco). The covering of spice initially smothered some of the young seedlings.  I then tried to rectify the situation by wetting the plants (cinnamon is extremely hard to wet). 

    The overwatering led to a slow decline, killing more seedlings by rotting the roots.  All was not lost however, I potted up the remaining seedlings into other containers and they have been growing on.  Hopefully they will catch up in size over the long growing season.

    As Julia Child was fond of saying “everything in moderation….including moderation”

    Bells of Ireland

    Bells of Ireland

    These seeds are notoriously hard to germinate.  They need to be stratified by exposing the seed to cool, moist conditions to help to break dormancy.  The seed is placed on moistened paper towel that is then folded and placed into a Ziploc bag.  Then placed into the fridge for a couple of weeks. After that, remove to a warm place (I use a heat mat). 

    After a period of time, the seeds are checked for germination and placed on the surface of prepared soil.  The daily checking goes on for a few days and hopefully you get enough germinated seeds.  This years’ results speak for themselves.  Hard to know what went wrong but it may be the seed source.  My usual source (that does germination testing on every lot) was out of seed so I purchased from another.

    Dahlia Splitting

    Last fall I used a new method of splitting dahlias that saved time.  I use flagging tape to identify the plants dug up and the tubers being stored.  As the dahlia afternoon wore on, some of the tubers seem to get mixed up and the quality of the labeling seemed to decrease. This tuber might be a Ferncliff Copper and then again, it might not be. Note to self – Take a little more care with the labelling.

    Forcing Tulips in Bulb Crates

    Seemed like a great idea last October. I do not have a cool place that does not freeze so I opted to chill my bulbs in the refrigerator. Bulbs in paper bags went into the crispers of the fridge for over 14 weeks.  During that time ethylene producing produce could not be kept in the fridge as ethylene can negatively affect bulbs and their bloom. 

    After the chill period, bulbs were planted in soiless mix in bulb crates and kept dark for a couple of weeks to develop roots.  The crates were then placed in a sunroom to grow.

    I got a total of 20 lovely tulips from about 150 bulbs.  Other bulbs did grow leaves but produced no flowers, some did not grow at all.  When I removed the bulbs from the soil, I did notice reduced root growth on many of the bulbs. This may be from inadequate chilling. 

    The crate method is clearly more successful when you can plant the bulbs up in the fall and place in a very cool spot that does not freeze (or a cooler like the flower farmer).  Bulb crates full of soil is messy in the house even if they are on tarps!

    Despite these hiccups, I have a roomful of healthy seedlings and large landscape beds awaiting more garden gaffes. 

    In the words of Janet Kilburn Phillips “There are no gardening mistakes, only experiments.”