Category Archives: Perennials

Advice, Links, Native Plants, Perennials, Planting

Wash the Roots, Protect Your Garden: A Simple Step That Stops Invasive Pests

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By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

This May, gardeners will once again flock to community plant sales in search of bargain perennials and unusual finds. These sales support worthwhile causes and help plants find new homes—but they can also unintentionally introduce invasive species into your garden. Before planting that exciting new addition, consider one simple precaution: root washing.

Why Root Wash New Plants?

Many gardeners have unknowingly introduced invasive plants through seeds hidden in the soil of donated or purchased plants. An even greater concern today is the spread of invasive jumping worms that I wrote about in a previous blog. Their tiny (1 – 3 mm), soil-coloured cocoons—about the size of a sesame seed—can easily hitchhike in the soil around plant roots.

Since 2016, jumping worms have been confirmed at 63  locations across southern and eastern Ontario (EDDMaps 2026). Although the adult worms die during winter, their cocoons survive and hatch over the next one or more years (Dobson et al. 2022). Dr. Michael McTavish, who has confirmed many infestations in Ontario, notes that by the time gardeners notice the tell-tale “coffee ground” soil texture or spot an actual worm, the infestation has usually been present for years (McTavish, 2025 pers. comm.). 

In gardens, jumping worms quickly consume organic matter in the upper soil layer resulting in soil drying, erosion, loss of nutrients, and ultimately decreased plant growth. Root washing greatly reduces the risk of introducing jumping worms, invasive seeds, and other unwanted organisms in your garden.

Root Washing at the Lakefield Horticultural Society Potting Day

The Lakefield Horticultural Society holds a Potting Day several weeks before its annual plant sale so divisions can become established before sale day. This year, we added root washing to the process.

Our revised assembly line included:

  1. Plant division
  2. Soil removal
  3. Root washing
  4. Potting into clean containers with sterile soil
  5. Labelling
  6. Moving plants outdoors onto tarmac

Fortunately, we worked in a cool, shaded area, since root washing is not recommended in strong sun or hot weather.

How to Root Wash Plants

Step 1: Remove Excess Soil

Gently tap plant roots against the inside of a garbage bin lined with a heavy-duty plastic bag to dislodge as much soil as possible.

Step 2: Rinse the Roots

Swish the roots in a pail of cold water, then transfer them to a second pail of clean water and repeat.

An old toothbrush proved surprisingly useful for gently removing stubborn soil particles from roots and iris rhizomes.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Root divisions in the red bin are gently tapped against the inside of a garbage bin to remove as much soil as possible. Then the division is successively swished in two pails of cold water, removing more soil particles.

 Step 3: Final Rinse

Use a gentle spray of water over a sink with a drain catcher—or over another pail—to remove the remaining soil particles. The plant can then be potted in sterile soil or planted directly into the garden.

Hostas washed particularly well, while larger rhubarb divisions and some columbine cultivars struggled after treatment.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Final rinsing of roots to remove remaining soil particles.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA A freshly root-washed hosta division ready for potting (that is sterile potting soil on the tarp and in the bin below the table).

What We Learned

A few practical lessons emerged from the day:

  • Root washing did not appreciably slow the potting process. Nine volunteers root washed more than 200 plants in 2.5 hours. It was not nearly as time consuming as we expected.
  • Root washing is easier for some plants than others.
  • Hostas tolerated the process very well; rhubarb and columbine cultivars did not.
  • Used toothbrushes are excellent tools for removing stubborn soil.
  • One volunteer root washed plants at home before arriving, leaving the soil behind in her own garden—an approach we may encourage in future years.

Safe Disposal of Soil and Wash Water

The removed soil was collected in heavy-duty plastic bags and disposed of through municipal waste collection. Surprisingly little soil accumulated after processing approximately 250 plants.

As rinse water became muddy, fresh pails replaced dirty ones. The used water was allowed to sit for several days so soil particles could settle to the bottom. Clear water was then poured into the municipal sewer system for treatment, while the remaining sediment could either be solarized (Master Gardeners of Ontario 2022) or disposed of through municipal waste collection.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Pails with remaining sediment. We used about a dozen pails, switching ones with dirty water and others with clean water regularly.

Caution is advised when root washing in rural areas as I couldn’t find any information on whether jumping worm cocoons can survive in untreated waste systems.

Root Washing Benefits More Than Perennials

For trees and shrubs, root washing has benefits beyond decreasing the risk of invasive organisms. Removing potting soil encourages roots to grow outward into the surrounding native soil rather than remaining confined to the original potting mix. The result is better long-term establishment and survival (Chalker-Scott 2020).

Root washing also allows gardeners to identify and correct root problems such as girdling or spiralling, before planting. Woody roots can be pruned so they spread outward like spokes on a wheel, while fibrous roots can simply be straightened by hand (Hopton-Villalobos 2021).

Even nursery-grown perennials benefit. Potting mixes containing perlite and vermiculite drain quickly and are ideal for greenhouse production, but roots sometimes fail to expand into heavier garden soils after transplanting. By removing the potting mix and “mudding in” the roots directly into garden soil, plants often establish more successfully—and gardeners avoid introducing invasive pests at the same time (Wagar 2025).

A Small Step that Protects Your Garden

Root washing may add a little extra time to planting, but it is one of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your garden and local ecosystems from invasive species. As there is currently no proven treatment for jumping worm infestations, prevention is the gardener’s best defence.

Photo: Silvia Strobl CC-BY NC SA Some of the potted plants two weeks after root washing. Clockwise from top left: Black-eyed Susan cultivar, Golden Tiarella Hosta, Armeria, and Columbine cultivar (these did not root wash well as can be seen in the pot on the left and several others not shown).

REFERENCES:

Chalker-Scott, L. 2020. Root Washing: Why and How to Wash Roots. Fine Gardening.https://www.finegardening.com/article/root-washing-why-and-how-to-wash-roots

Dobson, A., J. Görres, J. Richardson, A. Kostromytska. and T. Simisky. 2022. Invasive Jumping Worm Frequently Asked Questions. University of Massachusetts Amherst. https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/landscape/fact-sheets/invasive-jumping-worm-frequently-asked-questions

EDDMaps. 2026. Distribution of Jumping Worms (Family Megascolecidae) in southern Ontario. https://www.eddmaps.org/distribution/viewmap.cfm?sub=91199

Hopton-Villalobos, J. 2021. Wash First: Successful Strategies for Replanting Natives. Florida Native Plant Society. https://www.cupletfern.org/articles/wash-first-successful-strategies-for-replanting-natives

Master Gardeners of Ontario. 2022. Invasive Jumping Worms – Information for Home Gardeners. https://gardenontario.org/wp-content/uploads/JWS-Information-for-Gardeners.pdf

McTavish, M. Pers. Comm. 2025. Formerly Postdoctoral Fellow with the Daniels Faculty of Forestry, now Conservation Scientist with rare Charitable Research Reserve.

Wagar, Beverley. 2025. “Mudding In” and other planting tips. 1000 Islands Master Gardeners. https://1000islandsmastergardeners.ca/2025/11/13/mudding-in-and-other-planting-tips/

RELATED:

Act Now to Keep Jumping Worms Out!

The Myth of Fragile Roots Planting Trees and Shrubs

Ayad, N. 2026. Why Earthworms aren’t always good for the soil. CBC Ideas episode. https://www.cbc.ca/listen/live-radio/1-23-ideas/clip/16206081-why-earthworms-always-good-soil-planet

Bugs, Myths, Perennials, Vegetable Gardening, Water

Plant Myth Busters — Garden Edition

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By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

Every spring, when the soil warms and seed packets start calling our names, gardeners everywhere prepare for another growing season filled with hope – and advice. Lots of advice. From relatives to viral social media tips, it can feel like everyone has a “tried and true” gardening trick to share. But not all advice is rooted in fact. Let’s dig into some common garden myths.

Treated wood is toxic for vegetable gardens

This advice used to be true. Using railway ties treated with creosote or pressure treated lumber that contained arsenic-based preservatives could introduce harmful chemicals into your soil. Fortunately, since 2003 pressure treated wood in Canada now typically uses a copper based preservative called Copper Azole. This compound is generally considered safe for building vegetable garden beds. Don’t be afraid to shop at your local lumber yard or big box store when designing your garden.

Read more here: https://woodpreservation.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/BulletinTreated-Wood-In-Raised-Bed-Gardening.pdf

Watering in the afternoon burns plants

If this was true, we would all be in trouble when it rains! The truth is, there are benefits and drawbacks to watering at certain times of day. Watering in the early morning allows plants to use available water before the heat of the day hits. Watering in the evening can allow water to sit on leaves for extended periods of time, encouraging fungal growth. Watering in the afternoon can be more wasteful as some water will evaporate instead of reaching your plants’ roots. So when should you water? When your plants need it. Early morning is best, but if your plants are thirsty in the afternoon, water them.

Read more here: https://wpcdn.web.wsu.edu/wp-puyallup/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/leaf-scorch.pdf

Planting Lavender repels mosquitoes

It’s true that some plants (lavender, lemongrass, citronella) contain natural oils that may repel mosquitoes, but they are only effective when their leaves are crushed and the oils are applied directly to your skin. Even then, the benefits are short lived. Just planting these plants in your garden does not show any real repellent qualities. They do, however, smell lovely to us!

Read more here: https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/2025/08/06/florida-experts-break-down-the-buzz-on-the-myth-of-mosquito-repelling-plants/

Companion planting solves garden problems

Okay, don’t freak out… I’m not saying that companion planting is bad. It’s just not a magical cure-all for garden issues. The three sisters method (https://parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/mb/fortgarry/culture/blog/soeurssisters) is a companion planting method that has been used by indigenous people for hundreds of years with real benefits. But planting basil next to your tomatoes to improve flavour? You might hear some anecdotal evidence, but the science doesn’t back it up. While some companion planting claims are exaggerated, some pairings can still provide indirect benefits, such as attracting pollinators or improving space use.

Read more here: https://www.gardenmyths.com/companion-planting-truth-myth/

Gardening is part science, part tradition, and a whole lot of
learning as you grow. While not every myth will harm your garden,
understanding the “why” behind common garden advice can help
you make more informed choices and grow with confidence. As
you head into the season, stay curious, keep asking questions,
and don’t be afraid to dig a little deeper. Your garden will thank
you for it.

Garden Cleanup, Perennials, Seeds, Tools, Weed Control

Ten Things I Didn’t Get Done In Time

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by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

In December, 2025, winter came in early with freezing temperatures and lots of snow plus a little freezing rain for good measure. I wasn’t prepared and some garden jobs slipped through the cracks. A few can still be done but alas it is too late for some of them.

Mother Nature has outwitted me again!

  1. I like to do a last weed through my perennial bed. Spring is always so busy and I find that a good fall weed keeps the weeds down and it is not such an arduous job in the spring.
  2. I like to spread compost on my beds in late fall. The worms do a great job of mixing it into the soil and it makes more room in the compost bins.
  3. Several bulbs didn’t get replanted after they were dug up when I was redoing the perennial beds. I was listening to Paul Zammitt on CBC and he suggested potting up these bulbs in containers with fresh potting soil. Cover these pots and put  in a cold, frost free area and bring them into the light in late winter/early spring. When I first moved to the Peterborough area, I had no garden to speak of, so I decided to pot up several containers of bulbs but failed to cover them. The mice and chipmunks thought that had won the lottery and ate every single bulb! Be warned! It is a job that I can still get done.
  4. My seeds need sorting out – what is still viable and what should be thrown or given to the birds. I still have time to do this.
  5. I like to dismantle my outdoor evergreen decorations and place them over tender plants. If this snow ever goes down, I could still do this.
  6. I have 2 large bags of leaves all ready in the garage ready to protect new shrubs and plants. For now, I just have to hope that the deep snow is doing the job.
  7. If I could get into my shed, I could sort out all the pots and recycle many of the smaller ones. Alas, the shed is snowed in.
  8. Every fall I clean all my garden tools, sandpapering any rust before oiling the blades and rubbing linseed oil into the wooden handles. Another job that I can still do. I did take out the battery from my lawn tractor and it is stored in my basement.
  9. I should have checked and repaired some of my trellis before growth starts in the spring.
  10. I have had several amaryllis that I have had for several years. They spend the summer outdoors and come inside to my basement before the last frost. I did do this but forgot to put a couple of them under lights in time to bloom for Christmas. Oh well I will have lots of colour for Easter.

Now that the new year is here, I have no excuse for not doing as many of these jobs as possible.

Meanwhile, I am enjoying all the birds that come to my feeders. I even have a pileated wood pecker that pecks away at my suet feeder. Happy New Year!

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Books, Communication, Dreams, Fruits, Greenhouses, Health, Herbs, Houseplants, Information, Native Plants, Overwintering, Perennials, Propagation, Vegetable Gardening, Wildflowers

Time for Reading Garden Books

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by Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

In this day and age, we spend so much time on our computers, googling all the information we want and need. But there is something about sitting by a sunny window on a cold winter’s day with a good book.

The winter months are a great time to pull out an old gardening book or invest in a new one. The days are now getting longer and spring is coming, but actual gardening is a few months away. Time to learn something new to help you improve your gardening skills. There are many good Canadian and zone appropriate books that can help you.

Below, I have listed a few of my favourite books on my bookshelf. I have also asked my fellow Master Gardeners to share their favourites. Some of the books are out of print, but check your local library, used book stores or online sites. Enjoy!

For the Houseplant Gardener

The New Plant Parent

Darryl Cheng gives advice that is full of common sense. He explains that leaves do die and plant care should be enjoyable, not a chore. He discusses basic requirements for healthy plants including the right light, soil care and proper watering. Great illustrations and nineteen plant varieties are listed in detail. Look for his newer books also.

For the Vegetable Gardener

Plant Partners

Companion planting has been around for years. Jessica Walliser gives us “science-based companion planting strategies” that help with disease and pests, improves soil and supports pollinators. Lovely illustrations throughout will have you dreaming of your next vegetable garden.

Growing Under Cover

Niki Jabbour is the Canadian half of the popular website Savvy Gardening (along with Jessica Walliser). She has several books out, but this one gives great information about how to reduce pests with row covers. Niki has several books out, so check them out.

The Kitchen Garden

Peterborough MG Silvia Strobl first toured Patrick Lima and John Scanlan’s garden on the Bruce Peninsula over 40 years ago and was inspired by both their colourful perennial and productive vegetable gardens. Each spring, she still refers to this book’s excellent information to refresh her memory on time to sow, spacing, thinning, harvesting, etc. for the vegetable crops she grows! Unfortunately, this book is out of print, but you may find a used copy online.

Incredible Edibles

This book by Sonia Day is recommended by Peterborough MG Deb Fraser. It is very basic for the beginner gardener. It answers when, where, how, as well as other questions for herbs and vegetables. She even gives a recipe for each plant. Another book that is out of print. Try used book sites.

Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices & Flavorings

Deb also suggests the Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices & Flavorings, a cook’s compendium by Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz. Originally British but published in Canada by Readers Digest, 1992. It is beautifully illustrated and very detailed about the origin of herbs, spices, oils, sauces, coffees and teas around the world. She details the origin of these, how to cook with them and a recipe. When the weather is frightful with a nice warm drink in hand it makes for interesting reading, perhaps planning to add a few herbs to your garden next spring.

For the Perennial Gardener

The Well-Tended Perennial Garden

Peterborough MG Gladys Fowler’s favourite book is the Well Tended Perennial Garden. Tracy DiSabato-Aust’s book has an extensive encyclopedia of perennial species and cultivars and she explains the maintenance and pruning needs of each plant. The explanations and illustrations are excellent.

For the Native Plant Enthusiast

The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

For Peterborough MG Emma Murphy, definitely this one on native plant gardening – for our region, gives everything you need to know about growing the plant, including propagation, wildlife value and what butterflies and moths it is a larva host for. For a full book review she did on Rick Gray and Shaun Booth’s book when it was published in 2024 click here.

A Garden for the Rusty-Patched Bumblebee

Peterborough MG Sharleen Pratt says this book by Lorraine Johnson and Sheila Colla not only goes into great detail about Ontario native plants, vines, shrubs and trees, but it also encourages us all to think about the spaces we create so that pollinators can thrive.

For the Environmentalist

Our Green Heart

Peterborough MG Carol Ireland says it feels good to sit down and read something that requires absolute attention while at the same time causes you to make all the connections between what you are reading and the place trees have in the survival of our planet. This one by Diana Beresford-Kroeger is also on my reading list!

What is your favourite gardening book? What do you have on your list to find and read next? Eleven more weeks till spring!

Check out previous reviews on our website

Favourites From My Bookshelf

Four Great Books

Books, Communication, Dreams, Garden Design, Garden rejuvenation, New Gardens, Perennials, Tools, Vegetable Gardening, Websites

Creating a Garden Journal

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Full confession – I have never kept a garden journal. I have been given one from time to time as a gift, but I’ve never got round to using them.

This winter I’m thinking about finally using one (because my memory isn’t getting any better with age!) and because I’d like to record my gardening experiments in our main perennial beds year over year, as well as my experiences with native plants in my small native plant nursery in Lakefield, Ontario.

Keeping a garden journal is a valuable practice for both novice and experienced gardeners. It helps you document your gardening journey, learn from your experiences, and plan for the future.

So Why Keep a Garden Journal?

To Track Progress – A journal can help document plant growth, flowering times, and harvest yields to see how your garden evolves over time.

Record Weather Conditions – Noting temperature, rainfall, and seasonal changes that affect your plants will help you understand their influence on growth.

For Inspiration – A journal is a great place to document ideas, designs, and observations that inspire your gardening, serving as a creative outlet.

For Improved Planning – Use your past experiences to inform future planting decisions, such as choosing the right plants for specific locations.

Pest and Disease Management – It’s great to keep a record of any pest issues or diseases, along with effective treatments, to reference in the future.

For Budgeting Purposes – Keeping track of expenses related to your gardening supplies and plants allows you to manage your gardening budget effectively.

Some Thoughts on Creating a Garden Journal

I found some great ideas on how to have a successful garden journal.

Choose the Right Format – Decide between a physical notebook, a binder, or a digital platform that suits your preferences. You might want to keep several different journals – one for your vegetable garden, one for seeds etc. It’s up to you.

Include Essential Information – Record planting dates, plant names, care instructions, and observations on growth and health. This allows you to compare information year to year.

Photos – Incorporate photos of your garden at various stages, including bloom times and harvests.

Be Descriptive – Use descriptive language to capture your feelings and thoughts about your garden’s progress and challenges. Think about how your garden makes you feel during different times of the seasons.

Create Seasonal Sections – Consider organizing your journal by seasons or gardening phases (preparation, planting, maintenance, and harvesting) for easier reference.

Set Goals and Then Reflect – Write down your gardening goals for each season and include reflections on what worked well and what didn’t.

Add Design Elements – Include sketches or diagrams of your garden layout. Use colour, stickers, or drawings to make it visually engaging.

Maintain Regular Updates – Set a schedule to update your journal regularly, such as weekly or monthly, to maintain consistency. This is one thing I will have to do in order to successfully use a journal.

Experimentation Section – Dedicate a space to document any new gardening techniques, experiments, or plant varieties you try.

Review and Revise – Regularly review your entries to spot trends and adjust for future growing seasons.

Resources and Inspiration

Toronto & Golden Horseshoe Gardener’s Journal (now Canada Gardener’s Journal)
This journal has been reimagined for gardeners across Canada, providing tools, resources, and tips for successful gardening. Started by Margaret Bennet-Alder to aid Toronto area gardeners, in 2017 she transferred ownership to Helen and Sarah Battersby and now it’s run by Steven Biggs of Food Garden Life. (might make a great Christmas gift?)

Garden Therapy
This site has several articles about the importance of keeping a gardening journal and shares tips.
How to Start Keeping a Garden Journal (and Why You’ll Thank Me)
Keeping a Gardening Journal: Reflecting on Growth and Healing

Lee Valley 10 Year Gardening Journal
A very detailed 10 year perpetual diary, where each diary page is for one day of the year, and each page is divided into 10 sections. There is a diary, a section on gardening techniques, reference material, many charts, and places to record your inventory of perennials, a place to sketch etc.

DIY Garden Journal and Planner
Discusses the importance of a garden journal and provides printable pages and organizing tips. 

Purdue University – County Extension
Consider a garden journal – discusses the benefits of keeping a garden journal and what to include.

Penn State University – County Extension
Offers insights into Keeping a Garden Journal.

The Garden Continuum
Why a Journal is a Gardener’s Best Friend – explains the benefits of and tips for choosing the right format. This last link I found interesting as it explained the benefits of a digital vs hard copy journal.

“A digital journal can offer several advantages. First, it’s easily searchable so you can quickly find information on specific plants, techniques or projects. Second, you can easily add photos and other digital media to your entries, which can help you document your garden’s progress visually. Third, a digital journal can be accessed anywhere and from multiple devices so you can update it from your computer, tablet or phone. 

Writing by hand, however, can be a meditative and reflective experience, and it may help you to connect more deeply with your garden. Additionally, a handwritten journal can serve as a keepsake or heirloom that can be passed down through generations or to the future owners of your home.”

What I learned from my research on starting a garden journal (for this blog) is that you have to think about what YOU want to get out of your journal – inspiration, documentation, templates, a diary…whatever that is. So find a journal (or create your own journal) that meets your needs. If you find a great resource, please share it in the comments!

For now our garden in asleep for the winter, but it doesn’t mean we can’t start our journal and dream of springtime!

Overwintering, Perennials, Shrubs & Trees, Uncategorized, winter

Understanding Garden Dormancy

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Do you ever wonder what’s going on in the garden when temperatures drop below freezing? How do perennials, shrubs and trees withstand the cold and dehydration of winter?  As we prepare for the colder season above ground, a process of adapting to this change is also going on below ground.

What is Garden Dormancy?

Dormancy is a period of reduced growth in plants, allowing them to survive intense conditions such as cold temperatures or drought. During dormancy:

  • Trees and shrubs shed their leaves, reducing water loss and protecting against freezing temperatures.
  • Perennials retreat underground, focusing their energy on the roots rather than above-ground growth.

Dormancy is essentially a plant’s version of hibernation. Even though the plant may appear lifeless, it’s very much alive, just in a resting state.

Why Do Plants Go Dormant?

  • Survival Mechanism: Dormancy helps plants endure harsh conditions, preventing them from growing in unseasonal warm spells only to be killed by a subsequent freeze. 
  • Rest and Rejuvenation: It allows plants to rest, develop stronger root systems and trunks, and accumulate the energy needed for vigorous growth in the spring. 
  • Timing and Environmental Cues: Plants respond to environmental cues like shorter day lengths, decreasing temperatures, and reduced light to signal the onset of autumn and the need to prepare for dormancy. 

The Gardener’s Role During Dormancy

  • Understanding the Cycle: Gardeners learn to recognize the signs of dormancy and understand its importance for plant health and the overall garden ecosystem. 
  • Winter Protection: Proper care during dormancy, such as using mulch or wrapping to protect against frost, helps safeguard plants from potential damage. 
  • Be patient: In spring, don’t panic if some perennials take longer to re-emerge. Late risers like perennial hibiscus, Rose of Sharon and some ornamental grasses may take several weeks longer than others to show signs of growth.
  • Rest and Relaxation: Just like the plants in their gardens need rest, so too does the gardener. The slower seasons of fall and winter allow us to take stock of our gardens — what worked, what didn’t work, what needs to change — so that we approach next spring and summer rejuvenated!

Resources

Dormancy: A Key to Winter Survival

When Plants Go Dormant: How Hibernating Helps Them Survive

Understanding Plant Dormancy

Bulbs, Dreams, Perennials, Sun Gardening

Yes, You Can Still Plant Tulips!

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By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Unlike daffodils, which should be in the ground by Thanksgiving, tulip bulbs can be planted anytime from September until when the ground freezes in December. When you plant later in the season, squirrels are not as active, so may not discover and dig up your bulbs.

Planting in circles or groups rather than in a straight line is more pleasing to the eye.  Plant tulips in well drained soil at least 6-8 inches deep and 2-3 inches apart.

Hen manure is a good fertilizer and it will also deter squirrels. For 5 or 6 bulbs, dig your hole (digging that 8” deep will also deter squirrels), put in a couple tablespoons of fertilizer in the hole, place bulbs (one in middle with the rest around), cover with soil, pat firmly, sprinkle more fertilizer, cover bare earth with leaves or mulch (to disguise it from squirrels) and water thoroughly.

You can also use heavy wire to cover the area to keep squirrels from digging or place a board or rock over the area, removing it when the ground has frozen.

After your flowers fade in spring, you can cut back the flower stem but let the leaves die back naturally. This allows photosynthesis to continue, giving food back into the bulb so it will produce again the next year. Plant perennials close by so they emerge and hide the tulip leaves as they decline.

There are thousands of different tulip varieties in many colours, shapes and sizes. Below is a list of some of the main tulip varieties with their characteristics.  

NOTE: Don’t forget our first ever Peterborough Master Gardener Spring Blooming Bulb sale still has tulips (and other beautiful spring bulbs) available. Click here for more information and to order! Pickup is in Peterborough.

Source/credit: Longfield Gardens, NJ, USA
Single early tulip

Single Early     

  • blooms in cooler weather with daffodils              
  • cup shape with 6 petals
  • average height of 10-18 inches
  • live for 3-4 years
Single late tulip

Single Late

  • also called Cottage tulip
  • tallest varieties standing 18-30 inches tall          
  • bloom when temperatures warm           
  • long lasting blooms but shorter life
Double early tulip
Double late tulip

Double Early and Late

  • also known as Peony tulips because of their multi-petaled structure       
  • can be early or late varieties     
  • blooms can be 6 inches on 10-16 inch stems     
  • sensitive to rain and may flop
  • shorter lived type
Darwin hybrid tulip

Darwin Hybrid

  • cross between Fosteriana and late blooming single tulips
  • tall sturdy stems 22 to 34 inches                       
  • large blooms    
  • perform year after year
Triumph tulip

Triumph

  • sturdy stemmed variety growing 16 to 24 inches tall       
  • cross between single early and Darwin  
  • blooms mid season      
  • edges on petals are often a different colour        
Parrot tulip

Parrot

  • vibrant colours and feathery or ruffled petals      
  • long stems and large blooms make them tend to be more delicate          
  • tend to be later blooming
  • not long lived, but showy
Fringed tulip

Fringed

  • also known as Crispii tulips       
  • nice frilly edges which can sometimes contrast with rest of bloom           
  • often late bloomers
  • will only live a few years
Fosteriana tulip

Fosteriana

  • also known as Emperor tulips    
  • early to mid season bloomer with big blooms and large narrow leaves     
  • perform year after year 
Greigii tulip

Greigii

  • also known as Turkestan tulips 
  • big colourful flowers tend to be on shorter stems
  • mid season bloomer     
  • leaves are streaked or spotted maroon  
  • perform year after year
Kaufmanniana tulip

Kaufmanniana

  • early to mid season blooming time        
  • blooms resemble waterlilies as they tend to open float in bright sunlight  
  • usually short stemmed, about 6 to 10 inches tall
  • perform year after year 
Lily flower tulip

Lily Flower

  • late blooming   
  • long pointed petals which arch outwards
  • 14 to 30 inches tall
Viridiflora tulip

Viridiflora

  • known as a green tulip for the green markings on the petals       
  • late season but long blooming
  • 16 to 24 inches tall
Rembrandt tulip

Rembrandt

  • variegated petals in deep purple or reddish streaks                    
  • 18 to 26 inches tall       
  • original cultivar no longer available, but you may find Rembrandt type
Species tulip

Species

  • known as botanical
  • smaller and shorter but prolific  
  • naturalize well  
  • perform year after year
  • squirrels do not dig or eat
  • (If you’ve read this far, this is my favourite tulip…long lived, squirrel-proof, multiply well)

References

Toronto Master Gardeners Gardening Guide for Growing Tulips

Best Tulips Guide

Bees & Pollinators, Native Plants, Perennials, Shade Gardening, Sun Gardening

What’s Still Feeding Pollinators in Your Fall Garden?

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by Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

It has been a warm start to the fall season, but despite a little more frequent rain in September, the summer drought has continued here north of Peterborough in my 4b Plant Hardiness Zone garden. My soil is also sandy and dry. So what could still be blooming and feeding our most effective pollinators, the native bumble bees?

Although bumble bees are more active in spring and summer, they still need nectar and pollen in fall because the gynes, unmated females that will become next year’s new queen bees if fertilized, are mating and then must build up fat reserves and find a place to overwinter (The Xerces Society 2025). At this time of year you may see bumble bees sleeping on flowers in the morning, especially after a cold night or overnight rainfall. These are mostly the solitary male bumble bees that sleep outdoors. They are searching for a mate, and then they will die. Bad weather may also force female bumble bees to sleep outdoors, but their preference is to return to the hive at night (St. John 2023).

Here are a few drought-hardy native species that were still blooming and supporting pollinators in my garden on October 10th. All are resistant to deer. Sun, soil and moisture requirements, height, bloom colour and bloom time are noted for each.

Smooth Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)

Full sun – light shade; Sand, loam, clay; Dry to Medium; 4 feet tall; Lavender to light blue; September – October

Smooth Aster has very frost-hardy flowers that often bloom into early November. The lavender to light blue flowers provide a lavish display. It has an upright form, is salt tolerant, and has the ability to survive drought.

Given that it blooms into early November, Smooth Aster is an important food source for late season bumble bees. The backdrop of Sugar Maple in full fall colour contrasts nicely with its lavender blooms.

New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)

Full sun – Part sun; Sand, loam, clay; Moist-average soil; Tolerates dry soil but may look scraggly; 2-5 feet tall; Purple, pink; August – October

New England Aster is another late bloomer, often lasting until it is hit by a few hard frosts (Booth nd). It is a clumping perennial that can be divided every 3-5 years and also “politely” seeds into garden gaps. To keep it from flopping over in fertile soils, it can be “Chelsea-chopped” in mid-June to restrict its height. It is an important nectar plant for migrating Monarch butterflies, as well as a larval host for 5 butterflies and more than 40 moth species (Booth and Gray 2024).

A male Common Eastern Bumble Bee (Bombus impatiens) sleeping on New England Aster blooms.

Zig Zag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)

Part shade to Full Shade; Prefers, fertile loam but tolerates heavy clay; Well-drained soils; 1-3 feet tall; Yellow; August – October

Zig Zag Goldenrod is a non-aggressive goldenrod that is a great addition to the shade garden. It provides pollen and nectar for both short- and long-tongued bees, wasps, flies and butterflies and it is the larval host plant for over 45 species of moths (Booth and Gray 2024).

The leaves of Zig Zag Goldenrod can also change colour in fall, adding to the plant’s aesthetic value.

Blue-stemmed Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)

Part shade to Full Sun; Most well-drained soils, tolerates poor soil; 1.5 – 3 feet tall; Yellow; August – October

Blue-stemmed goldenrod has yellow clusters of flowers that bloom all along the purplish-blue stem in early autumn, creating streaks of gold if planted in large patches. Unlike other goldenrods, it does not spread aggressively. Its leaves host larvae of 45 moth species (Gray and Booth 2024).

Common Eastern Bumble Bee on Blue-stem Goldenrod.

Button Blazing Star (Liatris aspera)

Full Sun; Dry-Medium; Sand, loam; 2 – 5 feet tall; Yellow; August – October; Purple-Pink

Button Blazing Star is one of the most drought tolerant blazing stars. Unlike Dense Blazing Star (Liatris spicata) its flowers are held on individual stems rather than in spikes and the corms cannot be divided. Birds especially prefer its seeds (Diboll and Cox 2023).

Button Blazing Star provides nectar to migrating Monarchs in my garden on Sept. 2. It was still blooming on October 10th.

The evening of October 9th we had a second hard frost (-6oC with wind chill) but the next day all of these native perennials were still blooming. If you are looking at your garden this Thanksgiving and not seeing any plants still flowering and supporting pollinators, maybe make plans to add one or two of these next spring?

REFERENCES

Booth, S. no date. Native Asters for Ontario Gardens.

Diboll, N. & H. Cox. 2023. The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants. The University of Chicago Press. 636 pp.

Gray, R. and S. Booth. 2024. The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region. Firefly Books. 352 pp.

St. John, K. 2023. A Closer Look at Sleeping Bumblebees. Outside my Window blog post.

The Xerces Society. 2025. Bumble Bees: Nesting and Overwintering.

RELATED

Can You Help our Most Effective Pollinator?
The Secret Life of the Eastern Bumblebee
Fall Colour in Your Garden
The Late Summer/Fall Garden
Garden Cleanup, Perennials, Planting

The Great Divide

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By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Springtime gardening comes with a burst of energy, an unavoidable tendency to order too many seeds, buy too many plants and generally underestimate our own energy and garden space. Fall gardening, on the other hand, allows us to work with past season successes and failures fresh in our memories. It’s much more measured — the best season for gardening, in many respects.

Fall is the perfect time to divide perennials. There are several reasons to divide perennials: Mature perennials often begin to die out from the centre, they might be in the wrong spot, or they have gotten too big where they are. For many perennials, division is a straightforward way to create more plants with minimal effort and cost. Many perennials, such as Hostas and Daylilies are good candidates for fall division.  Division should take place early enough in the season to allow the roots to establish before it gets too cold. Late-blooming perennials such as Asters and Chrysanthemums are best divided in spring. And some plants, such as Poppies, don’t divide well at all.

Through this year’s growing season, I identified three plants in my garden ready for division:  a hosta, a goat’s beard, and a spikenard.

Hosta is a tough plant, it requires some muscle to get out of the ground and split but is also tough enough to withstand the move.  Despite the heat and drought this year, my hosta was in fine shape so I decided to dig up the plant without removing the leaves. (If it were later in the season, or if the plant were suffering, I would cut away many of the leaves above the crown and dig up the root without leaves.) The plant was well established, enough that I had to push the spade around the plant a few times, pushing it deeper each time and with some tearing and snapping of roots.  In the end, the whole clump came out fairly easily. Sometimes there is an obvious small or ‘baby’ clump that can be broken or cut off easily. In other cases, the roots can be plied apart with a garden fork and, when it’s really tough,  a sharp spade or knife cut into the middle of the clump is easiest. Broken or damaged leaves are removed and the new plants are planted at the same level they had been growing. Care should be taken to ensure all roots are under soil and the plant is watered generously for the next weeks.

The Goat’s Beard (Aruncus dioicus) is simply too big for its current location, overdue for division. Because of its size – it would be very difficult to dig and divide the plant without breaking the stems – I cut back all the stems to about 6 – 8” above the soil level. With a bit of digging, the clump came out fairly easily. I shook off a lot of the soil making it easier to divide into two substantial clumps, each with good roots. If the centre of an old perennial has died out, the living clumps around the edges can be dug out and replanted, the old clump in the centre discarded. Each clump gets replanted at the same depth and watered well. Smaller perennials, such as perennial Geranium (Geranium), Coral Bells (Heuchera),  Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina)  can be dug up gently and teased apart to produce new small plants, each to be planted and watered carefully.

Sun King Golden Japanese Spikenard (Aralia cordata) is a real showstopper in my garden. It loves where it’s growing but it is far too big. As with the Goat’s Beard, I cut off all the stems, then tackled the root clump. It is a beast of a plant, requiring lots of digging and hefting to get it out of the ground. Once out, I washed away the soil with high pressure water from the garden hose, then plunged the spade into the almost woody root. It took a lot of force and pushing to split. I only want a small clump so I worked with the spade to pull apart several sections, planting one and giving the rest to friends.

The red circles indicate ‘eyes’, this is where there will be new growth in the spring, each root clump should have several eyes.

Small clump of spikenard planted!

References:

Toronto Master Gardeners, Gardening Guide

Fine Gardening, Gardening Basics, 10 Tips on Dividing Perennial Plants

Iowa State University How to Divide and Transplant Perennials

Herbs, Perennials, Planting

Growing and using culinary herbs

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by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

Do you want to put some ‘oomph” in your meals? Culinary herbs are the answer.

After my husband was diagnosed with heart disease, I needed to rethink some of the rich, fatty meals that were full of salt. Luckily I had two friends who had a small herb business and were willing to share their expertise with me.

Master Gardener Christine Freeburn wrote a great blog in June on herbs in containers. She gave us lots of good ideas and I will take this a step further. I will look specifically at growing and using culinary herbs in the garden. I love Chris’ idea of planting herb containers close to the kitchen for accessibility.

While many herbs will flourish in pots let’s look at perennial herbs and how to use them. Specifically, I am going to write about  more unusual herbs and what to do with them.

Most herbs are fairly easy to grow as they don’t require a rich soil and most bugs don’t bother them due to their strong smell. Several herbs such as oregano, sage and lavender have a Mediterranean origin and love hot sunny weather. There a few such as chives, parsley and lovage that prefer partial shade.  It really important to provide herbs with good drainage, they hate having wet feet. If you have heavy soil you can mix in some grit when you are planting.

Lavender loves hot sunny weather

We all know the sweet basil that can be found in pots in grocery stores but why not try dark opal, lemon or Thai basil? I love to grow calendula and use the petals in salads, fish and rice.

Dark opal basil
Calendula

Lovage is a tall herb that grows well in this area and has a strong celery flavour, useful when you forget to buy celery.

Lovage

Salad burnet is another of my favourites for  salads and flavouring butters. It has a nutty, cucumber taste.

Salad burnet

Winter savory is a perennial that has a more intense flavour than summer savory. I use it to make stuffing, vinegars and jellies.

Winter savory (source: Friviere on WikiCommons)

Sweet cicely is an interesting , tall plant with many uses.  Use the  leaves in soups and omelettes and  the seeds in fruit salads. Cook the young leaves with tart fruit such as rhubarb to reduce acidity and the need for extra sugar.

Sweet cicely

Young sorrel leaves are great in soups and salads. Lavender is an amazing herb that reduces stress but is also used by cooks in cookies, jams and jellies.

Sorrel

Of course there are many herbs that can be dried and used to make tea. These include lemon balm, anise hyssop and bergamot and there are many more. Although I was born and raised in England I am not a regular tea lover but I do like to experiment with other herbs.

Anise hyssop

I have only touched sparingly on a few of the less well known herbs and their culinary uses.

Part two of this blog (you’ll have to wait until November 17th) will cover where to buy unusual seeds and plants, taking cuttings, layering, harvesting , drying, freezing, pestos and vinegars.

More info on how to use herbs in November!

Further information

Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs

The Complete Book of Herbs (by Lesley Bremness)

How to Grow Herbs

Richters Herbs