Category Archives: Native Plants

Bees & Pollinators, Native Plants, Perennials, Shade Gardening, Sun Gardening

What’s Still Feeding Pollinators in Your Fall Garden?

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by Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

It has been a warm start to the fall season, but despite a little more frequent rain in September, the summer drought has continued here north of Peterborough in my 4b Plant Hardiness Zone garden. My soil is also sandy and dry. So what could still be blooming and feeding our most effective pollinators, the native bumble bees?

Although bumble bees are more active in spring and summer, they still need nectar and pollen in fall because the gynes, unmated females that will become next year’s new queen bees if fertilized, are mating and then must build up fat reserves and find a place to overwinter (The Xerces Society 2025). At this time of year you may see bumble bees sleeping on flowers in the morning, especially after a cold night or overnight rainfall. These are mostly the solitary male bumble bees that sleep outdoors. They are searching for a mate, and then they will die. Bad weather may also force female bumble bees to sleep outdoors, but their preference is to return to the hive at night (St. John 2023).

Here are a few drought-hardy native species that were still blooming and supporting pollinators in my garden on October 10th. All are resistant to deer. Sun, soil and moisture requirements, height, bloom colour and bloom time are noted for each.

Smooth Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)

Full sun – light shade; Sand, loam, clay; Dry to Medium; 4 feet tall; Lavender to light blue; September – October

Smooth Aster has very frost-hardy flowers that often bloom into early November. The lavender to light blue flowers provide a lavish display. It has an upright form, is salt tolerant, and has the ability to survive drought.

Given that it blooms into early November, Smooth Aster is an important food source for late season bumble bees. The backdrop of Sugar Maple in full fall colour contrasts nicely with its lavender blooms.

New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)

Full sun – Part sun; Sand, loam, clay; Moist-average soil; Tolerates dry soil but may look scraggly; 2-5 feet tall; Purple, pink; August – October

New England Aster is another late bloomer, often lasting until it is hit by a few hard frosts (Booth nd). It is a clumping perennial that can be divided every 3-5 years and also “politely” seeds into garden gaps. To keep it from flopping over in fertile soils, it can be “Chelsea-chopped” in mid-June to restrict its height. It is an important nectar plant for migrating Monarch butterflies, as well as a larval host for 5 butterflies and more than 40 moth species (Booth and Gray 2024).

A male Common Eastern Bumble Bee (Bombus impatiens) sleeping on New England Aster blooms.

Zig Zag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)

Part shade to Full Shade; Prefers, fertile loam but tolerates heavy clay; Well-drained soils; 1-3 feet tall; Yellow; August – October

Zig Zag Goldenrod is a non-aggressive goldenrod that is a great addition to the shade garden. It provides pollen and nectar for both short- and long-tongued bees, wasps, flies and butterflies and it is the larval host plant for over 45 species of moths (Booth and Gray 2024).

The leaves of Zig Zag Goldenrod can also change colour in fall, adding to the plant’s aesthetic value.

Blue-stemmed Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)

Part shade to Full Sun; Most well-drained soils, tolerates poor soil; 1.5 – 3 feet tall; Yellow; August – October

Blue-stemmed goldenrod has yellow clusters of flowers that bloom all along the purplish-blue stem in early autumn, creating streaks of gold if planted in large patches. Unlike other goldenrods, it does not spread aggressively. Its leaves host larvae of 45 moth species (Gray and Booth 2024).

Common Eastern Bumble Bee on Blue-stem Goldenrod.

Button Blazing Star (Liatris aspera)

Full Sun; Dry-Medium; Sand, loam; 2 – 5 feet tall; Yellow; August – October; Purple-Pink

Button Blazing Star is one of the most drought tolerant blazing stars. Unlike Dense Blazing Star (Liatris spicata) its flowers are held on individual stems rather than in spikes and the corms cannot be divided. Birds especially prefer its seeds (Diboll and Cox 2023).

Button Blazing Star provides nectar to migrating Monarchs in my garden on Sept. 2. It was still blooming on October 10th.

The evening of October 9th we had a second hard frost (-6oC with wind chill) but the next day all of these native perennials were still blooming. If you are looking at your garden this Thanksgiving and not seeing any plants still flowering and supporting pollinators, maybe make plans to add one or two of these next spring?

REFERENCES

Booth, S. no date. Native Asters for Ontario Gardens.

Diboll, N. & H. Cox. 2023. The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants. The University of Chicago Press. 636 pp.

Gray, R. and S. Booth. 2024. The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region. Firefly Books. 352 pp.

St. John, K. 2023. A Closer Look at Sleeping Bumblebees. Outside my Window blog post.

The Xerces Society. 2025. Bumble Bees: Nesting and Overwintering.

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Advice, Climate Change, Compost, Drought, Native Plants, Perennials, Water

Searching for Rain – Rethinking the Future of our Gardens

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By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Heat. Humidity. Thunderstorms but no real rain. Dry soil.

cracked soil and dry leaves

What I wouldn’t give for a week of solid, consistent rain in our gardens. After the March ice storm, followed by a cool, wet spring and high water conditions until May, Mother Nature turned the water faucet off and we haven’t had solid rain for what feels like months.

I rarely have to water our established perennial gardens, which are a mix of native and non-native plants, but this month has been the exception.

So it’s time to think about the future. What can we do so our gardens survive (and thrive) during future dry or drought conditions?

Maintain Healthy Soils

Good soil is the foundation for good plant growth. Anything you can add to your soil like compost or other organic matter will make it easier for roots to penetrate deeper, creating more expansive root systems that can seek out water and nutrients. Check out Master Gardener Sharleen Pratt’s previous blog.

The result? Healthier, more drought-resistant plants. Good soils are better able to absorb surface water runoff, minimize erosion, and access nutrients and sediments.

hands holding soil with small plant seedling

Think About Future Plant Selection

Evaluate your plants for their resistance to dry conditions or drought; look for new plants (hey, who doesn’t want more plants?) that are identified as drought-tolerant or drought-resistant. Group plants according to how much water they need. Ask your local garden centre or nursery staff which plants they recommend.

Consider incorporating more native plants, which generally adapt better, have lower water demands, and fewer pest problems, plus of course the many benefits they provide to our pollinators and wildlife. In Our Nature has some great ideas.

bumble bee on native purple asters
Bumblebee on native asters

Use Mulch

Mulch reduces evaporation, moderates soil temperature, and inhibits weed growth. It is estimated that three quarters of the rain falling on bare soil is lost to plants through evaporation and runoff.

Use compost, wood chips, bark nuggets, shredded bark mulch, shredded leaves, or any other organic material to cover the surface of the soil at least 5 cm in thickness. More info and a deeper dive here.

shredded bark mulch
Shredded wood mulch

Water Well

Long, deep watering encourages roots to go deep down in the soil to where it is moist and a lot cooler. Water less frequently but for longer periods, so water reaches deep into soil. Good thorough watering promotes healthier plants.

Water only when necessary. Most plants will normally wilt in hot sun and then recover when watered. Also, a dry surface is not always a sign of water need. The surface generally dries out first and is not a true indicator of what is going on down deep near the plant root. Make use of a hand trowel or your fingers to check for moisture.

Weed Management

Weeds will compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients. Keep your gardens and areas beneath trees and shrubs weed free. Once the weeds are eradicated, apply mulch.

Consider Alternate Water Collection and Distribution Methods

Water harvesting is a great way to use water from your home’s roof and direct it onto the landscape, where the soil becomes your “holding tank.” The best example is using a rain barrel – we have various rain barrels and tanks in our garden and they are a great investment.

You can also practice ‘passive’ water harvesting by creating depressions that fill with water from the roof runoff or formal rain gardens, both of which help with stormwater runoff issues. Peterborough Greenup Rain Program

Investigate use of soaker hoses or other irrigation techniques using timers, which keep water on the soil and reduce losses by evaporation. Adjust watering frequency and amounts based on season, temperature, and amount of rainfall. Overhead watering uses more water and encourages fungal diseases.

rainwater barrel beside house
Rainwater barrel and water diverters – check out Rainbarrel.ca for location of sales

Practice Water Conservation Everywhere

Not just in your gardens. Water is our most valuable resource. Learn how to reduce water use throughout your house and gardens. The Simple Guide to Water Conservation and Make Every Raindrop Count.

water droplets on leaf
Bees & Pollinators, Native Plants, Uncategorized

Pollinator Week

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By Cheryl Harrison, Master Gardener

Pollinator Week 2025 is scheduled from June 16-22 this year.  It is an annual celebration initiated by Pollinator Partnership to raise awareness of the vital role pollinators play in our ecosystems and food systems. This year’s theme, “Pollinator Cultural Connections,” emphasizes the deep ties between pollinators and human culture.

What Is Pollinator Week?

Pollinator Week is a global event dedicated to celebrating, protecting and promoting pollinators—bees, butterflies, birds, bats, and other insects—that are essential for the reproduction of over 75% of flowering plants and about one-third of the world’s food crops.

The 2025 Theme: “Pollinator Cultural Connections”

The 2025 theme invites reflection on how pollinators are interwoven with human culture, including agriculture, art, and spirituality. Many Indigenous communities have long recognized the importance of pollinators not only for their ecological contributions but also as a foundation for cultural symbolism.

What Can We Do?

You can contribute to pollinator conservation by:

  • Planting native pollinator-friendly gardens: Use a variety of flowering native plants to support pollinators .
  • Supporting local initiatives: Engage with community events and support programs like Bee City Canada, which recognizes and supports municipalities, Indigenous communities, campuses, and schools taking action to protect pollinators .
  • Educating others: Share information about the importance of pollinators and ways to protect them through social media and community outreach.

One of the fun Pollinator Week activities is a Bioblitz.  From the Pollinator Partnership web site:  “A Bioblitz brings together trained scientists and citizen scientists in a fun, friendly competition to record species observations. Community science efforts like this help advance scientific knowledge and foster public engagement, enable widespread participation in the scientific process, and break down traditional barriers between scientists and the public.”

I signed up for the Bioblitz.  For more information see link.

I love taking photos of the pollinators that visit my gardens.

Tips for Creating a Pollinator-Friendly Garden

  • Diverse Planting: Incorporate a variety of native plants with different bloom times to provide continuous food sources for pollinators throughout the growing season.  Native plants are more readily available now.  I only began adding them to my gardens a few years ago.  My gardens consist of lots of the usual perennials eg. day lilies, peonies, iris, daisies.  The natives fit right in!
  • Provide Shelter: Include features like bee hotels, leaf piles and tall grasses to offer shelter for pollinators.
  • Eliminate Pesticide Use: Pesticides can harm pollinators.
  • Water Source: Provide a shallow water source, such as a birdbath with stones for landing.  Pollinators will visit for a drink.

Celebrating Pollinator Week 2025 highlights the interconnectedness between pollinators and human culture.  Participate in local events, support conservation efforts and make informed choices to contribute to the protection and celebration of these essential creatures.

Other Resources

Invite These Super Pollinators and Pest Managers to your Garden by Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener.  See link.

How to Make the Perfect Pollinator Garden.  See link.

Pollinator Partnerships – Threats to Pollinators.  See link.

Ontario Native Plants list.  See link.

PS:  I consider reading the book “Bringing Nature Home” by Doug Tallamy, as my pollinator epiphany.   See link for more information about this book.

Bees & Pollinators, Insects, Native Plants, Perennials, Seeds

Myrmecochory – How Ants Help Expand Our Gardens

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Ants are everywhere, but only occasionally noticed. They run much of the terrestrial world as the premier soil turners, channelers of energy, dominatrices of the insect fauna ~ Bert Holldobler

This spring I noticed that my patches of native bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) and large-flowered bellwort (Uvularia grandiflora) appear to have spread to places where I didn’t plant it. So that got me wondering “how did that happen?”

Large-flowered Bellwort (Uvularia grandiflora) with Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense)

Apparently the answer is myrmecochory, which is defined as the dispersal of seeds by ants. Many plants have evolved to depend on a specific group of insects to disperse their seeds—in this case ants!

Plants that use ants to disperse their seeds have a fat-filled structure on the seed exterior called an elaiosome, which is a super snack for an ant. These structures or “food bodies” are rich in lipids, amino acids or other nutrients.

Elaiosome (e-lay-o-zome)
(Greek: elaion=oil + soma=body) literally meaning ‘oil body’

Ant with Bloodroot seed (photo credit: Donna Bos)

Plants that use this technique include many of the spring ephemerals such as trout lily (Erythronium americanum), violets (Viola spp), trilliums (Trillium spp), bloodroot, wild ginger (Asarum canadense), dicentra (Dutchman’s breeches, squirrel corn, bleeding hearts), hepatica, spring beauty (Claytonia virginica), large-flowered bellwort, and sedges in the Carex genus.

How it Works

  • Elaiosome Production
    Myrmecochorous plants produce seeds with an elaiosome
  • Ant Attraction
    The elaiosome attracts ants, who are drawn to the food source.
  • Seed Transport
    Ants carry the seed back to their nest, where they consume the elaiosome.
    • Seed Dispersal
      The seed is then discarded, often near the ant nest, providing a good environment for germination and seedling establishment.

The seeds are dispersed away from the parent plant, which reduces competition with the parent plant and improves chances of successful germination in the new spot. The ants may also discard the seeds in nutrient-rich areas within the colony, further enhancing germination success.

Thanks to the ants, the seeds are buried in nourishing soil, protected from predators (e.g., slugs and mice) who would eat the entire seed, not just the elaiosome.

Myrmecochory occurs worldwide, with over 11,000 plant species depending on this partnership. In eastern North America, ants in the genus Aphaenogaster do the majority of the work. These ants nest in leaf litter and woody debris on the ground, so it’s important to minimize plowing and soil disturbance.  

Aphaenogaster worker ants can often be spotted carrying seeds back to their nest (Photo credit: Katja Schulz – Flickr)

Ants are Important

Ants are a vital part of our ecosystem and worth protecting. They are keystone species – their diversity and behaviour affect their habitats and the surrounding plant and animal communities. So by conserving ants, we protect many other organisms that rely on them for the lifecycles.

The intricate tunnels and galleries ants create loosen the soil and allow moisture, nutrients, and air to move downwards. They carry leaf litter, prey, and other food items deep into the soil, which then are broken down by other invertebrates and microbes into the nutrients that all plants need to grow.

So next time you see your favourite spring plant has popped up in another location, thank the ants!

Want More Information?

Don’t crush that ant—it could plant a wildflower

Ants As Seed Dispersers a.k.a. The Myrmecochory Episode!

Ants Aren’t Your Enemy

Bees & Pollinators, Native Plants, Perennials, Websites

Invite These Super-Pollinators & Pest Managers to Your Garden

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By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

You may know that native bees are the most important of our native pollinators, but which insects are the second most important pollinators of food crops and native wildflowers?

Perhaps you’ve never heard of flower flies? Visiting flowers more often and moving more pollen than pollinators such as butterflies, flower flies range in size from less than 1/4 inch long to more than 3/4 inch long, but pollinate at least 72% of global food crops and about 70% of wildflowers (Pollinator Partnership, 2024).

Maybe you have mistaken their strongly contrasting black and yellow bands on the abdomen for a bee or a wasp? Their colouring mimics that of these stinging insects—an evolutionary development known as Batesian mimicry. The English naturalist, Henry Walter Bates, came up with this term for harmless species that take on the physical traits of dangerous or bad-tasting species. So although hover flies lack a stinger, their colouring imitates the warning colours of bees and wasps that do have stingers, thereby offering protection by deceiving predators.

The larvae of flower flies are stellar pest managers, consuming aphids, leafhoppers, mealy bugs and thrips. In fact, one larva can eat up to 400 aphids over its two to three week development!

Females lay hundreds of eggs, depositing each tiny white egg singly on leaves or shoots near colonies of aphids. The larvae hatch in two to three days and resemble small legless maggots,  ranging in colour from creamy-white to green or brown (Mahr 2025).

Four common flower flies that I have observed and photographed in my garden, and whose identity has been verified by experts on iNaturalist, are shown and described in the following. Lists of flowers visited are from Skevington et al 2019).

Caption: This Orange-legged Drone Fly (Eristalis flavipes) is found in a many habitats. It visits a wide range of flowers, including this Zinnia in my garden, but also Spreading Dogbane (Apocynum androsaemifolium), Button Bush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), Thistles (Cirsium spp.) Joe-Pye Weeds (Eupatorium spp), Apple (Malus spp.), Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius), Primroses (Primula spp.), Sedum (Sedum spp.), Goldenrods (Solidago spp.), Meadowsweet (Spirea spp.), Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), and Viburnum (Viburnum spp.).
Caption: This adult Eastern Calligrapher‘s (Toxomerus geminatus) beautiful black and white pattern is well disguised on the disc flower of the native Lance-leaved Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata). The adults consume both pollen and nectar, and have been recorded visiting: Joe Pye Weeds, Ninebark, Goldenrods, brambles (Rubus spp.), feverfew and tansy (Tanacetum spp.) and blueberries (Vaccinium spp.). The larvae pierce aphids and mites with their hooked mouthparts before feeding on them.
Caption: The Narrow-headed Marsh Fly (Helophilus fasciatus) is one of the earliest and latest flower flies, shown here pollinating late blooming Smooth Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve) in my garden. Some flowers visited include Button Bush, Joe-Pye Weeds, Grass leaved Goldenrod (Euthamia graminifolia), Ninebark and Golden Alexanders (Zizia spp.). The adults lay eggs on vegetation overhanging ponds and when the larvae hatch they fall into the water where they complete their development.
Caption: Transverse Banded Flower Fly (Eristalis transversa) on flower of the native Tall Coreopsis (Coreopsis tripteris).The adults consume pollen and nectar from:
Native shrubs such as Buttonbush, Ninebark, and Viburnums
Native coneflowers (Rudebekia spp.), Goldenrods, and Asters
Non-native winter cress or yellow rocket (Barbarea spp.), sedums, feverfew and tansy

There are 416 known flower fly species in eastern North America (Skevington et al. 2019). So I hope to observe and photograph at least a few more species on flowers in my garden this season! Nearly all flower flies can readily be identified by their:

  • Large heads with large forward-facing eyes that often fuse together. Bees have kidney-shaped eyes on the side of their heads.
  • Stubby, short antennae as opposed to the long antennae that bees have
  • Only 2 wings compared to 4 wings for bees and wasps (Erikson 2020)
  • A “false” vein in their wing venation i.e., a vein that is not joined to any others

From: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/S/I-DP-SYRP-KC.003.html#gsc.tab=0

How do you attract these super pollinators and pest managers to your garden?

  1. Flower flies prefer white and yellow flowers that are open and have easily accessible pollen and nectar, for example the disc flowers in the daisy (or Asteraceae family), but they also use orange, pink, purple, and blue daisy-like flowers. According to a recently published book about the flower flies of northeastern North America, native plants are essential to supporting a diversity of flower flies (Skevington et al. 2019). Non-native plants that attract flower flies include: Queen Anne’s lace, wild mustard, sweet alyssum, coriander, dill, broccoli, kale, lettuce, mustards, dandelion, plums and cherries (Mahr, 2025, Pollinator Partnership 2024).
  2. Don’t use pesticides since they can kill both the larvae and the adult flower flies.
  3. To give the larvae something to eat, tolerate some level of aphids and other pests in your garden.

Don’t be surprised if by doing these things you suddenly start seeing flower flies in your garden. Also known as hover flies, you may even observe their darting back and forth flying behaviour i.e., when males hover in the open hoping to attract a female, or when males of some species defend a territory.

Flower flies are some of the most beneficial insects you can have in the garden so invite them in by planting the annual non-native and native flowers they prefer.

Literature Cited

Erikson, B. 2020. Flower flies: insects with a “PR problem”. Wild Pollinator Partners.

Mahr, S. 2025. Hover, Flower or Syrphid Flies (Syrphidae). Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Extension.

Pollinator Partnership. 2024. Flower flies—masters of disguise. 2-pages.

Skevington J.H., M.M. Locke, A.D. Young, K. Moran, W.J. Crins and S.A. Marshall. 2019. Flower Guide to the Flower Flies of Northeastern North America. Princeton University Press. 512 pp. (Note: all 6 authors are Canadians from Ontario).

Information, Native Plants, Shrubs & Trees

The Mysterious Magic of Maple Syrup

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By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

Recently, I have grown to love maple syrup for more than just its delicious taste. The harvesting and boiling of the sap brings me outside in the fresh air during a time of year when I need it most. But I’ve wondered what makes this harvest season so short, so specific and so unique.

First, the Sap

A cross section of a hardwood tree

During the growing season, sugars needed for tree growth are created via photosynthesis and stored in the tree as starches in the sapwood. When the weather cools, starches are converted back to sugars and passed into water flowing through the xylem of the tree, creating sap.

How Water Moves Through the Tree

Typically, water moves up the tree from the roots through cell channels called xylem. Since the xylem is made up of dead elongated cells, these cells don’t contribute to the movement of the water, they rely on pressure gradients. In maples, a unique pressure is present in the springtime, but only when it freezes at night and thaws during daytime.

A diagram of a plant cell

Maple Magic in Spring Time

Just outside of the xylem vessels are dead wood fibre cells with air inside. When the temperature drops in the evening, the smaller branches at the top of the tree freeze first, and sap frost collects in the air-filled wood fibre cells surrounding the sap-filled xylem. This creates suction, pulling sap up the tree. When the temperature rises in the morning, the frost melts and falls down the tree through the xylem by both gravity and pressure created by the warming air in the wood fibre cells. This is when you get to collect!

What about Fall?

But wait! We don’t just get freezing at night and above freezing daytimes in the spring. That happens in the fall too. Can you tap maple trees and make syrup in the fall too? The answer is yes, but researchers have found you won’t get as much as springtime, and the sap won’t be as sweet. Additionally, it will reduce the sweeter springtime sap yields as well. Worth it? Probably not.   

The Pros Know What They’re Doing

Tapping only once a year also helps to reduce injury and therefore risks to the tree caused by severing its protective layers and exposing it to external factors. Hobbyists and large-scale producers alike want to foster a healthy tree that provides delicious syrup for years to come.

References

Giesting, K. (2020). Maple Syrup. Climate Change Resource Centre. www.fs.usda.gov/ccrc/topics/maple-syrup

Merhaut, D. J. (Feb, 1999). How do large trees, such as redwoods, get water from their roots to the leaves? Scientific American. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/how-do-large-trees-such-a/

Tyree, M. (Jan, 1984). Maple Syrup Exudation: How it Happens. Maple Syrup Journal. 4(1). 10-11.https://www.uvm.edu/~uvmaple/maplesapexudation.pdf

Garden Design, Native Plants, Travel

A Garden Visit – The Abkhazi Garden

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By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Gardening is an incredibly versatile hobby, a hobby that can move around with you when you move house or travel near or afar. I’ve always made a point of visiting gardens whenever or wherever I travel. Out-of-town sporting events, family holidays, weddings, and even business travel have always included visits to public gardens, arboretums, or even garden centres. These visits are always aesthetically pleasing and relaxing. At the same time, they provide a chance to learn about the plant material along with some local history and culture.

On a recent trip to Vancouver Island I visited the Abkhazi Garden in Victoria.  It was early October, well past the glory days of summer and far too late to enjoy the rhododendrons – the highlight of the garden – at their prime.  That didn’t matter at all, the vistas were astounding, the property a real treasure where gardens wind their way over and around dramatic glaciated rock mounds. This is a site where the gardeners took full advantage of the topography and natural environment rather than change it or cover it up. It’s a one acre spot surrounded by urban Victoria yet each view from anywhere in the garden carries the eye to pleasing combinations of shape, colour, texture, and form. The main house and summer house were built in the late 1940’s reflecting the post-war Modernist sprit, resulting in a superb integration of house and garden.  The house and garden are carefully integrated, the blend of the natural and designed is seamless and sublime.

The story behind the garden is interesting as well. The property was originally purchased by Peggy Pemberton-Carter who, in 1946, had recently arrived in Victoria after having spent the war in prisoner-of-war camps in China. She soon married Nicolas Abkhazi, an exiled Georgian prince who had also been interned. The combination of their personal privilege and hardship found a creative outlet in their garden. In the beginning they acquired plant material from the finest nurseries, they were mentored by distinguished horticulturalists and over the next 40 years they experimented and refined their project.

The walk through the garden begins in the rhododendron woodland where the native Garry oaks provide the canopy for species and hybrid rhododendrons. Growing closer to the ground are the ferns and hostas with winter aconite, fawn lilies, camas and hardy cyclamen blooming in season. There’s also tigridia, primula, and galtonia, along with spring flowering bulbs.

A Spanish fir tree holds place of honour at the beginning of a meandering green path with an immense rock outcropping on one side and a profusion of heather and other mounding, textural interest on the other. The path was inspired by the Yangtze River and Peggy’s image of it near her childhood home. Side paths lead onto several naturally created rock ponds providing reflections of sky and other nearby plantings. At each turn or change in elevation the composition is unique and spellbinding.

Recent additions to the garden include a swathe of native camas and a collection of plants indigenous to the Caucasus region, these the result of a donation from the Georgian Ambassador.

The Land Conservancy of British Columbia (TLC) purchased the property in 2000 to save it from becoming a townhouse development. Part of the main room in the house has been refurbished as a Tea House. Community support is a large factor in the continued success and improvement of the garden: the entry fee is by donation and a large group of enthusiastic volunteers do much of the work around the garden.

References:

Abkhazi Garden

https://www.abkhaziteahouse.com/

Birds, Information, Native Plants, Shrubs & Trees, Websites

Cedar Trees: A Winter Food Source for Wildlife

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

In February of 2023, I wrote an article about cedar trees; their botanical family, the medicinal history and their use by the early pioneers of our region.

Although the article alluded to its use as a food source for critters, that wasn’t the main purpose of the article. In this blog, I’d like to expand on that initial description to provide more information on the importance of the tree to our mostly four-legged friends and planet co-habitants.

The eastern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis), common in forests and along shorelines, provides a reliable food source for many animals when other options are scarce during our harsh winters. I have a row of cedars at the back of my lot mostly for wind control but it provides other functions for local wildlife.

Deer are among the most frequent consumers of cedar during winter. When snow covers ground vegetation, deer browse on cedar foliage, which is rich in nutrients. This evergreen tree helps sustain deer populations, especially in areas with limited winter food. However, over-browsing can damage young cedar trees and affect forest regeneration.

Other animals also rely on cedar. Snowshoe hares feed on cedar bark and twigs when their preferred food sources, like shrubs, are unavailable. Porcupines chew on cedar bark for nourishment. Even small birds, such as chickadees and finches, eat the seeds found in cedar cones.

Cedar trees provide shelter. Their dense, evergreen foliage offers protection from wind and snow, creating warm habitats for birds and small mammals. This shelter can be as important as food for survival in winter.

If you own land with cedar trees, consider their value to wildlife. Protect young trees from over-browsing by using barriers or planting more cedars in areas where they are heavily used. Maintaining healthy cedar stands can support local ecosystems and provide crucial resources for animals during winter.

In addition to cedar, deer and other wild animals rely on a variety of other trees, shrubs, and woody plants for food. These sources are critical when grasses, green plants, and other ground vegetation are buried under snow. Below are some examples:

Trees Consumed by Deer

  1. Aspen and Poplar (Populus species): Deer often browse the twigs and bark of these trees, especially younger specimens.
  2. Maple (Acer species): Deer will eat twigs and buds from sugar maple and red maple trees.
  3. Birch (Betula species): Twigs and bark of birch trees can be a winter food source.
  4. Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis): Eastern hemlock is a favorite winter food, with deer browsing its soft, green needles.
  5. Willow (Salix species): Willows near wetlands provide twigs and bark for deer and other animals.
  6. Oak (Quercus species): Acorns, if not consumed in the fall, remain an important energy source for deer and squirrels during winter.

Other Trees and Shrubs for Wildlife

  1. Alder (Alnus species): Twigs and catkins are eaten by small mammals and birds.
  2. Pine (Pinus species): Seeds from pine cones are consumed by squirrels and birds, while deer sometimes nibble on needles.
  3. Dogwood (Cornus species): Red osier dogwood is a common browse species for deer and rabbits.
  4. Sumac (Rhus species): Deer eat sumac twigs and fruit clusters during the winter.
  5. Apple and Crabapple (Malus species): Wild or abandoned apple trees provide fruit, twigs, and bark for wildlife.

Conservation Tips

To support wildlife during winter, maintaining diverse tree species in forests and natural areas is crucial. Planting native shrubs and trees that produce berries or nuts can also help sustain wildlife through the cold months.

Resources

How do Deer Survive Harsh Winter Weather?

Do Cedar Trees Make Good Deer Habitat?

Northern White Cedar – An important winter food source for White-tailed Deer

5 native plants that benefit wildlife in winter

Grass, Light, Native Plants, Perennials, winter

Light in the Garden

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By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

It’s the darkest time of the year, daylight is at its lowest, and most gardening has ended for the season. That doesn’t mean, however, that there is nothing in the garden to be enjoyed. Garden design and planting choices should take into account the many months when the garden is still and inactive. It’s during this time when, despite the lack of light and active growth, the garden is revealed. It is stripped bare of colour and the exuberance of growth is set aside. With the leaves gone and many small plants succumbing to frost, the garden reveals itself openly and honestly.  It’s odd, but in the dark days of winter there is more light in the garden. Unencumbered by layers of leaves, loud colours, or scrambling growth, the garden becomes airy and lets us see its bones and form. There is a lot to consider and enjoy when the garden, no matter how big or how small, is revealed.

The low slanting light of late autumn and winter is an important piece of the beauty of the garden. Glancing out my bedroom window first thing every morning, I’m drawn to the morning light shining behind the swollen, grey buds of the magnolia tree next to the driveway. The buds are soft and fluffy, vulnerable yet so full of promise. In a nearby garden, there are a few large clumps of Karl Foerster grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) that sway and drift with the slightest breeze. Their slender stalks are a soft gentle brown, somehow able to withstand strong winds and pelting rain. Fall blooming grasses are a particular treat in fall and early winter, the slanting light is illuminated through the fluffy plumes making a beautiful statement. Hameln (Pennisetum Alopecuroides ‘Hameln’) is a favourite but there are many to choose from including some special native ones such as Side -oats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula)  and Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

Another subtle feature of winter light is the shadow effect. The gentle lengthened shadows created by tree structure, moving grasses, seed heads, or conifer form merit consideration when choosing plants and placement. They are certainly worth more than a glance on a spectacular bright winter day.

The dried flower heads of ever popular hydrangeas are a common winter garden treat especially when topped with a light dusting of early snow. Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia), a small summer flowering shrub, also retains dried flower heads through fall and winter. Other shrubs offer interest because of bark colour and texture (red twig dogwood, cornus sericea) or growth habit. Staghorn Sumac doesn’t take centre stage in the summer, but offers spectacular colour in fall.  In winter, its red fruits, antler-like branches, and graceful form make it a show-stopper.  Another shrub favourite in my fall and winter garden is Seven-Son Flower (Heptacodium miconiodes). It is an all-around wonderful, unique shrub with added appeal for its beautiful peeling bark in winter.  Other shrubs that hold particular appeal in the winter are Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)  and Corkscrew Willow (Salix babylonida).

Limelight hydrangea in the snow
Summersweet in the snow

Of course, conifers are the bones of any garden in winter. With different needle textures and lengths, and different shapes and forms, they provide obvious interest to every garden. When everything else is grey and brown, the rich textured green of a conifer stands out and when the snow comes along their interest increases. It’s important to have a variety of shapes and forms: cylindrical, mounding, conical, and weeping. In a small urban garden such as mine, I’ve found dwarf varieties and columnar species. One of my favourites is a weeping white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Pendula’), which is supported and pruned to fit a small spot.  It’s a lovely unique specimen tree with gentle movement, at certain times of the day its pleasure is doubled when the sun throws it shadow on the nearby shed. 

References

https://kawarthanow.com/2022/01/13/tips-from-peterborough-greenup-on-how-to-design-your-own-winter-garden/

Winter Gardens: Reinventing the Season by Cedric Pollet
This book features beautiful winter gardens across France and the UK

Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Native Plants, Perennials, Uncategorized

Native Grasses Provide Winter Interest and Feed the Birds

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By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

This week I’ve been enjoying watching a flock of American Tree Sparrows that have migrated south from their summer tundra breeding grounds to my garden north of Peterborough for the winter. While I have both sunflower and nyger feeders, they are feeding exclusively on the Big Bluestem and Savannah Grass seeds in my garden. Sadly, these native grasses seem to have a bad rap among gardeners which is too bad as they have many benefits for both you and local wildlife.

I have the following four commonly occurring warm season perennial native grasses in my full sun garden:

Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) is a very tall (5 – 8 ft) grass with clumps that form a dense sod but does not creep by rhizomes. It competes aggressively with shallow-rooted flowers, so it is best planted with species that form deep tap roots or spring bloomers that go dormant in the summer. In my garden it is a fall season focal point at the back of a border behind Culver’s Root (Veronicastrum virginicum) which has a central taproot as well as underground rhizomes.

In early May, Big Bluestem still hasn’t emerged, but allium foliage and some blooming tulips fill the space (left). By late June, alliums appear to float above the Big Bluestem grass (highlighted in orange) that is now 2 ft. tall (middle) and hiding the bulb foliage. By late July, Big Bluestem grass provides a green backdrop for the white flower spikes of Culver’s Root (right).

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is an excellent grass for gardens due to its shorter height (2 – 4 ft), clumping form, very showy silver-white seed heads, and bright red stems in fall.It prefers dry sandy soils.

Savannah Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)is another tall grass (5 -7 ft) for the back of the border. It tends to self-sow so the young seedlings require a little annual weeding.

Native grasses add movement and colour to the garden. Little Bluestem’s red stems are illuminated by early October morning sun (left) while the late afternoon August sun highlights the tiny golden flowers and flower stalks of Savannah Grass (right).

Sideoats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) is a hardy, short bunchgrass that spreads very slowly by means of short, stout rhizomes and doesn’t compete with other plants. Its deep fibrous roots make it useful on slopes to prevent erosion (or on the edges of slightly sloped garden beds as in my garden). Do not plant it in clay soils.

Sideoats Grama has delicate hanging flowers (left), and later seeds (right) that are held in spikes that fall gracefully to one side of the stem.

Benefits for you

As well as being stunning fall and winter focal points, the tall native grasses, Big Bluestem and Savannah Grass, make excellent privacy borders. Their very deep roots (5-6 feet or more) make them useful for erosion control on slopes. Each of these native grasses is drought tolerant. And, each creates excellent winter interest as they tend to maintain their upright form. Another bonus is that they all have low palatability to deer.

Big Bluestem (left) and Savannah Grass (right) stand tall in the author’s garden despite 12 inches of winter snow.

Benefits for wildlife

Many butterfly skipper and moth larvae feed on these native grasses and they provide critically important seeds and habitat for native birds in fall and winter.

An adult Delaware Skipper rests on a blade of Big Bluestem in the author’s garden (left). Big Bluestem is a host plant for this butterfly’s larvae. Both Little Bluestem and Sideoats Grama are host plants for Leonard’s Skipper caterpillars. The adult butterfly is seen here nectaring on marigold in the author’s garden (right)

American Tree Sparrows feeding on a buffet of Big Bluestem (left) and Savannah Grass (right) seeds in the author’s garden. It is fun to watch them “ride” the Savannah grass stems to the ground so they can more easily peck at the seeds some of which spill onto the fresh snow.

Native Grass Establishment and Maintenance

Most native plant nurseries stock these grasses and all of them are easily propagated from seed. Plant seedlings densely at 1 ft to 1.5 ft spacing to discourage weeds. Water during the first year while roots are getting established. Fertilization is not necessary. All can be easily divided, but Sideoats Grama should be teased apart, not cut with a spade.

Remnant pockets of native grasses like this one of Big Bluestem growing on the shoreline of Little Jack Lake (left) are good places to collect seeds to propagate your own plants (right). Never collect more than 10% of seeds.

Depending on how much seed the birds eat in winter, you might get a few volunteer seedlings. If you don’t want more plants, they are easily kept in check by weeding when they are small.

If weedy cool season grasses have seeded into native warm season clumps, use a propane torch in early spring to burn emerged leaf blades while warm season native grasses are still dormant. Be sure to first cut off last year’s dry stalks and have a hose nearby. Don’t do this on a windy day!

Big Bluestem, Savannah and Little Bluestem are 3 of the 4 dominant grasses found in remnant tall grass prairies and oak savannahs, of which less than 1% of their pre-European settlement extent remains in Ontario. (The other is Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) which can self sow quite a bit so might not be suitable for small gardens.) These grasses are also found on dunes, sandy shorelines, rock barrens, roadsides, and hydro corridors. Including these grasses in your garden can help support some of the wildlife that rely on this endangered ecosystem.

REFERENCES & ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Diboll, N and H. Cox. 2023. The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants. Pages 302-303, 306-307, 326-329.

Ehrlich, P. R. D.S. Dobkin and D. Wehte. 1988. The Birder’s Handbook A Field Guide to the Natural History of North American Birds, The Essential Companion to your Identification Guide. Page 584.

Johnson, L. and S. Colla. 2022. A Garden for the Rusty-Patched Bumblebee—Creating Habitat for Native Pollinators. Pages 149, 150, and 159.

Map of Native Plant Nurseries in Ontario maintained by Halton & Area Master  Gardeners

North American Native Plant Society. 2017. Seed collecting and saving.

RELATED

GARDENING FOR BIRDS THROUGH THE SEASONS

A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE NATIVE PLANTS

EXPANDING YOUR NATIVE PLANT PALETTE

WINTER FAVOURITES