Category Archives: Information

Advice, Climate Change, Information, Planting, Tools

What Zone Am I?

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by Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Having just come back from places where tropicals are growing wildly and flowers are blooming, I wanted to discuss growing zones and the importance of knowing your zone for overwintering plant success of perennials, trees and shrubs.

Plant hardiness zones can be a confusing subject. In Canada, we generally use the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) system because it is the one we often see on labels of the potted plants we purchase at greenhouses and big box stores.

Source: PlantMaps – https://www.plantmaps.com/interactive-ontario-plant-zone-hardiness-map.php

The USDA system was designed in 1960, updated in 2012 and again in 2023. These hardiness zones are determined as “geographic areas that have an average annual minimum temperature of a certain degree.”  No other factors are taken into consideration. There are 13 zones with zone 1 being the coldest and zone 13, the warmest.

Natural Resources Canada has their own system which uses factors that include the number of frost free days, amount of rainfall, snowfall, and wind as well as mean temperatures in the coldest and warmest month. There are 9 zones. Interestingly, Ontario has 7 of these zones.

To complicate things further, there are also ‘a’ and ‘b’ zones. Zone 3a is colder than Zone 3b.

When you look at the government of Canada site, you will see zone dates from 1961-1990 and then an update of 1981-2010. In most cases, zones have moved by at least half a zone. In 2024, Natural Resources Canada was to release an updated version. At press time, I did not find an update.

Plants are described as being hardy to a zone #. If a plant is listed as zone 6, it will survive in Zone 6 or higher. If you live in Zone 4, and try to grow and overwinter a Zone 6 perennial, you will probably not be successful. You are better off to look at lower numbered zones from what your area suggests, to be sure a plant is going to survive and be robust.

Reading plant labels and buying plants that are zone appropriate will help you to have more overwintering success. You will notice on most labels the zone is the USDA system. The label may say “perennial” but look at the zone. A plant can be a perennial…..but only in Florida (Zone 8 or higher).

Other factors for overwintering success include snow cover, wind, and humidity. Snow cover is a great insulator, wind can cause windburn, humidity will help plants stay hydrated.

With climate change happening, our Peterborough area has changed from 5a to 5b which means our average annual minimal temperature has moved from -26.1C to -23.3C.

Below are some towns and cities and their current zones:

  • Bancroft – Zone 4a ( interesting to note, this zone did not change in the update)
  • Haliburton – Zone 4b
  • Port Hope – Zone 6a
  • Pickering – Zone 6a
  • Hamilton – Zone 6b
  • Thunder Bay – Zone 3b
  • Lakefield, Lindsay, Norwood, and Ennismore are all the same as Peterborough’s – Zone 5b

Things to Remember

  • Canadian and American systems are not the same. For instance, Zone 5 under the USDA system should be considered Zone 6 in Canada
  • You can stretch the zones, if you have a micro climate or spot protected from wind, good snow cover and a milder winter

So depending on your gardening confidence, you can stick to Zone 3 or 4 perennials for zonal success or be adventurous and try that beautiful Zone 6 perennial.  Just remember to read your labels and check your zones.

Resources

Hardiness Zone Maps

Canada Plant Hardiness Maps

5th National Climate Assessment and an Update on the Plant Hardiness Zone Map – The Garden Professors

Plant hardiness zone maps are not created equal

The Differences Between US and Canadian Plant Hardiness Zones

Information, Insects, Perennials, Vegetable Gardening

Why You Should Plant Flowers in Your Vegetable Garden

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By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

Flowers planted in a vegetable garden aren’t just beautiful, nor just an edible addition to your salads, and not even just a pollinator attractant for your zucchini crop. Did you know that specific flowers that attract beneficial insects by providing pollen and nectar resources, known as insectary plants, are one part of the botanical triad preventative pest management approach used by organic farmers that you can apply in your own garden? The other two parts of the triad are the desired crop (vegetable or fruit) and a trap crop that is more attractive to insect pests than the desired crop, hence luring pest populations away. The trap crop once infested with pests is sacrificed.

Field trials have demonstrated that planting both insectary plants and trap crops is more effective at reducing pest populations than using either method alone (i). Researchers are developing guidelines for the most effective triad plant combinations for a localities’ pest and beneficial insects. Additionally, they are testing optimal planting arrangements, for example, planting insectary plants along field edges and inter-planting trap crops with the desired crop.

In Quebec, researchers evaluated 10 different flowering plants for how well they attracted both (i) beneficial natural insects and (ii) typical insect pests. Weekly surveys found that beneficial ladybeetle (Coccinellidae family) captures were twice as high in Marigold (Targetes patula), Nasturium (Tropaeolum majus), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) and Common Yarrow (Achillea millefollium) as compared to the other six plants in the study. Meanwhile, captures of Tarnished Plant Bugs (Lygus lineolaris) pests were highest in Bee (or Lady) Phacelia (Phacelia tanacetifolia) while flea beetle pests (Chrysomelidae: Alticinae) were highest in Sweet Alyssum, White Charlock (Sinapis alba), and Marigold (ii).

Trap crops can be in the same family as the desired crop, but have to be more attractive to the pest. For example, in one study 10% percent of the Broccoli crop area was interplanted with the Brassica, Pac Choi to effectively lure away flea beetles (iii). Similarly, Blue Hubbard Squash, susceptible to Squash Vine Borer (Melittia cucurbitae), Squash Bug (Anasa tristis), and spotted and striped cucumber beetles (Diabrotica undecimpunctata, Acalymma vittatum), is used by commercial farmers as a trap crop when growing other squash, cucumbers and melons (iv).

Home gardeners can apply the botanical triad by interplanting trap crops and insectary plants in their vegetable gardens.

The Pac Choi trap crop is more attractive to flea beetles than Broccoli. Once flea beetles feed on Pac Choi they can easily be controlled by other means, for example, tilling the infected Pac Choi into the ground (Photo used with permission from Dr. Joyce E. Parker, The University of Sydney).


Trap Crops


Planting a diversity of trap crops is more effective than planting only one trap crop species. The trap crop should cover at least 10% of the desired crop’s planting area to be effective, and must be destroyed to kill the pest before it moves to the desired crop (iii). A few trap crops that have been found to reduce insect pests on common vegetable crops follow.

A few studies have found that basil and marigolds effectively reduced thrip and tomato hornworm populations in tomatoes (v). The author planted a few basil (in all 4 corners of the raised bed) and marigold plants into this tomato bed.

Insectary Plants


Flowering annuals like Marigold, Nasturtium, Cosmos, Bee Phacelia and Sweet Alyssum can be started indoors before transplanting the seedlings into vegetable gardens after the frost-free date. These will flower within a month and be able to feed beneficial insects, when pest populations peak and right into late fall. Planting a succession of native flowering plants near the vegetable garden can also provide habitat for beneficial insects as well as support pollinators.

These annuals can be purchased in garden centres, but are often only available as varieties with double flowers that either produce less nectar (because energy is put into petal production) or block pollinator access to nectar and pollen (vii). Choose single or heirloom varieties to maximize pollen and nectar for beneficial insects. It is also more economical to start your own plants, because you can be certain they haven’t been treated with synthetic pesticides. After all you want to attract beneficial insects that will in turn prey on or parasitize insect pests on your vegetables!

As you plan your 2025 vegetable garden, consider whether the botanical triad could help prevent or minimize any pest problems you may have experienced in the past.

Some flowers like Marigolds both attract beneficial insects and trap pests, here helping to protect the Armenian Cucumber in the author’s garden. The Sweet Alyssum in the bottom left corner (and elsewhere in the garden) has also been found to be both an insectary plant and a trap crop (ii).


References

i. Shesthra, B., D.L. Finke, and J.C. Piñero. 2019. The ‘Botanical Triad’: The Presence of Insectary Plants Enhances Natural Enemy Abundance on Trap Crop Plants in an Organic Cabbage Agro-Ecosystem. Insects: June10(6):181 https://www.mdpi.com/2075-4450/10/6/181

ii. Boisclair, J. E. LeFrancois, M. LeBlanc, M. Grenier, M. Lefebvre, & G. Richard. 2014. Beneficial and pest insects associated with ten flowering plant species grown in Québec, Canada https://orgprints.org/id/eprint/24006/1/24006-OWC2014-Boisclair-Canada-Flowering%20strips_MM.pdf

iii. Parker, J. & W. Snyder. 2014. Diversity by Design: Using Trap Crops to Control the Crucifer Flea Beetle. https://eorganic.info/sites/eorganic.info/files/u461/trap%20cropping%20flea%20beetle%20webinar_Final.pdf

iv. University of Missouri. 2017. Trap cropping: A simple, effective, and affordable Integrated Pest Management strategy to control squash bugs and squash vine borers. https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2017/3/Trap_cropping/

v. Parker, J.E., W.E. Snyder, G. C. Hamilton and C. Rodriguez‐Saona. 2013. Companion Planting and Insect Pest Control. Chapter 1 in Weed and Pest Control – Conventional and New Challenges, Pages 1-30. http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/55044

vi. Hoidal, N. 2021. Companion planting in home gardens. University of Minnesota Extension. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/companion-planting-home-gardens

vii. Silva, E. 2021. Less showy flower petals mean more pollinators. Oregon State University Extension Service. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/pollinators/less-showy-flower-petals-mean-more-pollinators

Somewhat related:

HOW CHEMISTRY PLAYS A ROLE IN PLANT-INSECT RELATIONS IN OUR GARDENS

Books, Communication, Dreams, Houseplants, Information, Links, Seeds, Websites

Got the Gardening Winter Blues?

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Last night I dreamed of green, lush tropical gardens. It was yet another sign I am suffering from the February winter blues or as I call it “Garden Deficit Disorder”.

Yes, the days are getting a little longer with every sunrise, and we have had a fair bit of sun over the past month (which helps a lot) but I have more than half a metre of snow blanketing my gardens while my English cousins are sending photos of snowdrop drifts after their ‘long winter’.

I do like the winter season, if for no other reason than my aging body needs a rest from the garden. But it’s also the only downtime I have to plan for next year’s garden, order seeds and attend garden workshops, because I know once spring arrives I will not have a minute to spare.

So I’ll offer up a few gardening related activities for the wintertime that may help you through the blues…

Browse those Seed Catalogues

Whether you get paper copies or just look at them online, seed catalogues will bring a smile to your face, even if you don’t buy anything. The wonderful folks at Seeds of Diversity have put together an great map of Canadian seed companies. Some of my favourites are Northern Wildflowers (Sudbury), William Dam Seeds (near Dundas), Floribunda Seeds (near Peterborough) and Hawthorn Seeds (Mount Forest).

cartoon showing someone in bed with seed catalogs
Credit: Joseph Tychonievich

Catch Up on Your Reading

Winter is the only time (and my favourite time) to cuddle up with my newest garden book, while enjoying beautiful photos and deciding which new plants will be my garden next year.

If you’re interested in native plants I highly recommend The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region (I did a book review here) and A Northern Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants and Pollinators: Creating Habitat in the Northeast, Great Lakes and Upper Midwest by Lorraine Johnson.

Another favourite I’ll be drooling over (it’s visually stunning) is Planting – A New Perspective by Piet Oudolf and Nigel Kingsbury.

Or even a fictional book involving gardening makes me happy – highly recommend The Last Garden in England by Julia Kelly.

Buy a New Houseplant (or 2, or 10)

While I love seeing colourful houseplants over the winter, our harsh interior conditions (furnace heat and low humidity) are not ideal for them. I will confess – I am a much better gardener outside than inside, plus I have the additional challenge of two cats that like to nibble. But do a little research and find the right plant for your space, or if you’re not ready for that investment, just pick up some fresh cut flowers to brighten your day.

Review your Garden Photos

On dull winter days I try to review and organize the zillions (ok maybe a slight exaggeration) of garden photos on my phone (I even have a gardening folder). I download the photos to my computer and organize them, all the while just enjoying the memories and seeing the colour! It’s wonderful that digital cameras and our smart phones now make it so much easier these days to capture our gardens in all their glory.

Here’s one of my chipmunks munching on some Green-headed/cutleaf coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata) buds this summer.

Attend a Seedy Saturday or Sunday

If you’d like some more social interaction with likeminded gardeners or even just some advice, finding a local Seedy Saturday or Sunday is perfect. They occur across Canada, mostly in February and March. Seeds of Diversity have a comprehensive list – use the menu on the right of the page to filter by province. Peterborough’s Seedy Sunday is March 9th.

Find Gardening Seminars (online or in person)

If I can think of anything positive about the pandemic, it’s that we all transitioned to more online learning, and platforms like Zoom made it easy for garden experts to reach large audiences. While it’s always wonderful to see speakers in person, online presentations mean I can watch gardening experts that I might otherwise never have the chance to see in person.

Our Grey County Master Gardeners offer a great series, as does Mississauga-based Blooming Boulevards, and I’ve also been attending the Home Gardening seminars offered by the Iowa State MG Program and some by the Wild Ones organization in the US.

An upcoming in-person gardening event in Peterborough is the very popular A Day for Gardeners – save the date!

Gardening Blogs and Websites

Personally I tend to follow those who have similar growing conditions to me (Zone 4b, harsh winters, Central Ontario) but I do have several (including a few in the UK) which I like to just view and enjoy.

You should of course sign up to receive the weekly Peterborough Master Gardener blog, delivered straight into your email on Monday mornings. Our members cover various topics and issues which will be of interest to gardeners, and you can also search older blogs for specific information using the search function.

Here are a few of my favourite blogs/newsletters. Many of these folks also have YouTube channels and extensive information on their websites.

The Empress of Dirt (Ontario)

The Impatient Gardener (Wisconsin)

The Laidback Gardener (Quebec)

The folks at Savvy Gardening (Pittsburgh, Halifax, Dundas)

I hope these ideas help get you through these cold winter days and nights. Let’s all dream about spring and a new gardening season!

photo of butterfly on echinacea with text on garden deficit disorder
Birds, Information, Native Plants, Shrubs & Trees, Websites

Cedar Trees: A Winter Food Source for Wildlife

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

In February of 2023, I wrote an article about cedar trees; their botanical family, the medicinal history and their use by the early pioneers of our region.

Although the article alluded to its use as a food source for critters, that wasn’t the main purpose of the article. In this blog, I’d like to expand on that initial description to provide more information on the importance of the tree to our mostly four-legged friends and planet co-habitants.

The eastern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis), common in forests and along shorelines, provides a reliable food source for many animals when other options are scarce during our harsh winters. I have a row of cedars at the back of my lot mostly for wind control but it provides other functions for local wildlife.

Deer are among the most frequent consumers of cedar during winter. When snow covers ground vegetation, deer browse on cedar foliage, which is rich in nutrients. This evergreen tree helps sustain deer populations, especially in areas with limited winter food. However, over-browsing can damage young cedar trees and affect forest regeneration.

Other animals also rely on cedar. Snowshoe hares feed on cedar bark and twigs when their preferred food sources, like shrubs, are unavailable. Porcupines chew on cedar bark for nourishment. Even small birds, such as chickadees and finches, eat the seeds found in cedar cones.

Cedar trees provide shelter. Their dense, evergreen foliage offers protection from wind and snow, creating warm habitats for birds and small mammals. This shelter can be as important as food for survival in winter.

If you own land with cedar trees, consider their value to wildlife. Protect young trees from over-browsing by using barriers or planting more cedars in areas where they are heavily used. Maintaining healthy cedar stands can support local ecosystems and provide crucial resources for animals during winter.

In addition to cedar, deer and other wild animals rely on a variety of other trees, shrubs, and woody plants for food. These sources are critical when grasses, green plants, and other ground vegetation are buried under snow. Below are some examples:

Trees Consumed by Deer

  1. Aspen and Poplar (Populus species): Deer often browse the twigs and bark of these trees, especially younger specimens.
  2. Maple (Acer species): Deer will eat twigs and buds from sugar maple and red maple trees.
  3. Birch (Betula species): Twigs and bark of birch trees can be a winter food source.
  4. Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis): Eastern hemlock is a favorite winter food, with deer browsing its soft, green needles.
  5. Willow (Salix species): Willows near wetlands provide twigs and bark for deer and other animals.
  6. Oak (Quercus species): Acorns, if not consumed in the fall, remain an important energy source for deer and squirrels during winter.

Other Trees and Shrubs for Wildlife

  1. Alder (Alnus species): Twigs and catkins are eaten by small mammals and birds.
  2. Pine (Pinus species): Seeds from pine cones are consumed by squirrels and birds, while deer sometimes nibble on needles.
  3. Dogwood (Cornus species): Red osier dogwood is a common browse species for deer and rabbits.
  4. Sumac (Rhus species): Deer eat sumac twigs and fruit clusters during the winter.
  5. Apple and Crabapple (Malus species): Wild or abandoned apple trees provide fruit, twigs, and bark for wildlife.

Conservation Tips

To support wildlife during winter, maintaining diverse tree species in forests and natural areas is crucial. Planting native shrubs and trees that produce berries or nuts can also help sustain wildlife through the cold months.

Resources

How do Deer Survive Harsh Winter Weather?

Do Cedar Trees Make Good Deer Habitat?

Northern White Cedar – An important winter food source for White-tailed Deer

5 native plants that benefit wildlife in winter

Advice, Garden Cleanup, Garden Design, Information

Five Great Garden Practices for the New Year

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By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

With the new year days away, resolutions for 2025 might be on your mind. Here are a few easy garden practices you might want to include in those New Year’s Resolutions.

  1. Keep a record.

Have a file, record on your computer, write in a journal, put plant tags in a zip lock bag by year. Write on your tags the year & where you planted. It is important to know which hydrangea you planted, so if you need to research how to prune or how large it should get or if you want to purchase another, you will have that information. When you keep tags or record what annuals you plant, if it is something you want to repeat, you will have the exact variety when you go shopping the next spring. There are so many varieties of so many plants.

  • Keep things clean.

Disease is often spread through the tools we use. Have a pack of wet wipes in your tool box & clean tools after each use. Sharpen tools at the end of gardening season, so they are clean & ready to go in spring.  Although you should use leaves as compost, don’t leave diseased plants in your gardens. Place them in your green garbage. Keep houseplant soil free of fallen leaves as well.

  • Keep yourself healthy.

Stretch before going into the garden to do manual work. Limit yourself to an amount of time that is good for you and your body and stop when your time is up….your garden will be there when you come back. Take your water bottle with you. Wear gloves & hat to protect yourself. Don’t work in the blazing sun…. bad for you & your plants.

  • Do your research.

Right plant in the right spot will give you more chance of success. If you plant a water loving perennial in a dry sandy spot, the plant will suffer or fail. Planting a tall annual at the front of your bed will obscure the pretty ones behind it. Use the internet, but make sure you are using reputable sites where knowledgeable gardeners are sharing good information. Look for articles written by Master Gardeners or university professors or scientists. Look for websites that end with “edu.” You can also contact Peterborough Master Gardeners online (peterboroughmastergardeners.com) to ask questions or check out what events we will be at in 2025.

  • Enjoy your gardens.

Remember, you garden because you get enjoyment from your hard work. Wander through your garden, peaking at the new sprouts coming up or the gorgeous flowers opening. Breath deep. Enjoy the birds, insects and wildlife that visit. Research shows that gardening and being in nature help our minds, bodies & souls.

Happy New Year! From Peterborough Master Gardeners

Information, Insects, winter

How do Insects Survive the Winter?

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Last April, I wrote an article entitled “How do my outdoor plants survive the winter?” Although not as popular a subject topic, a quick dip into the world of all things creepy crawly when the temperatures plummet may be of similar interest.

When winter hits our region, we head indoors, but what about insects? These creatures have incredible ways of making it through the cold winter months. So much for my favourite October joke: “What’s the best thing about October? The mosquitoes are dead.” True, but also not for long.

Some insects, like ladybugs and cluster flies, find shelter and enter a hibernation-like state called diapause. They slow their bodies down to a near standstill, using very little energy while tucked away in cracks, under leaves, or even in homes. Those sneaky lady beetles seem to be able to find a way into houses too!

Other insects, like woolly bear caterpillars, use natural antifreeze. Their bodies produce special chemicals called cryoprotectants, which prevent their cells from freezing. This allows them to survive temperatures well below zero.

Some insects, like mosquitoes, leave behind their eggs, which are tough enough to endure the cold. Come spring, these eggs hatch, and a new generation begins. Sigh. Similarly, some butterflies, like the Mourning Cloak, overwinter as adults in tree bark or woodpiles, waking up early in the spring.

For honeybees, survival is a team effort. They cluster together in their hives, shivering their bodies to create heat and keep the colony warm.

And then there are insects like crickets, which die off in the fall, leaving behind their eggs to carry on their legacy.

Winter may seem quiet, but beneath the snow, insects are surviving in remarkable ways. Whether through hibernation, antifreeze, or teamwork, our local insects prove how tough and adaptable nature can be—even in the coldest months. For some, like pollinators, that’s great news. For others, like the red lily beetle, the Japanese beetle, and aphids, we simply have to grin and bear it.

Fruits, Health, Information, Perennials, Vegetable Gardening

Things to be Thankful For

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By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

As we celebrate Thanksgiving this year, we should think about what we are thankful for in our gardens. I recently asked my Master Gardener friends to share what they are thankful for.

Rainfall – Everyone was happy with the amount of rain we received this year. According to the Canada Weather Stats website (peterborough.weatherstats.ca), our rainfall for the period from July 2023 to June 2024 was over 100mm more than the same months in the previous year. And we seemed to have it at the right times. Although rain is great, it is important to remember that watering still needs to be done, especially containers of annuals and vegetables and hanging pots. When plants get big and fill the pots, the rain may not get down into the soil which is where you want the moisture to go.

Good educational information – As Master Gardeners, we use scientifically-based resources for answering gardening-related questions. Use the extension “.edu” or “.sci”  in the search box when you are googling. There is so much information out there, but we need to be sure it is the correct information. Master Gardeners are always asking questions, learning and sharing their knowledge.

Healthy Gardens –  Feeding the soil is a big part of having a healthy garden. Putting good quality topsoil in a new garden area, and adding organic compost annually will help your soil. Mulching holds the moisture and suppresses weeds. Leaves are great for mulching on your perennial beds. Free local wood chips supplied by Ontario Hydro were a great mulch for one gardener.

Good Harvests – Vegetable gardens were bountiful this year. Thanks to an exceptional harvest of peppers, tomatoes and beets, there are stuffed peppers in the freezer, tomato sauce and salsa and pickled beets in the cupboard. Carrots and brussel sprouts grew well and herbs like parsley and rosemary were huge and healthy. One gardener reported two butternut squash plants produced 20 squash!

Beautiful Flowers – With all the rain and heat, hostas were huge, sunflowers towering, clematis bloomed long and luscious. Everything seemed to be big and beautiful and most bloomed earlier and longer than normal. Container annuals like coleus grew huge and healthy.

Nature in the Garden – Master Gardeners actively promote native plants in the garden to encourage more pollinators. Integrating natives amongst your cultivars works well if you don’t want that ‘wild’ appearance many natives provide. Several gardeners reported visits from birds like Chickadees, American Robins and House Wrens that made their nests and raised their babies in their gardens. Cedar Waxwings, White-Throated Sparrows, Song Sparrows, Dark-Eyed Juncos, American Goldfinches, Northern Cardinals, Hairy Woodpecker, and a Common Yellowthroat came to visit and forage. Birds are great for the garden as they will eat many pests. And they give us enjoyment.

I am trying to be thankful for the skunk who has been visiting my yard and digging grubs. My yard looks like a minefield, but it is healthier!

What are you thankful for in your garden?

Happy Thanksgiving!

And thank you to MJ, Gladys, Carol, Laura, Chris, Jenn, Silvia, Cheryl, Deb, Grant, & Mary Kathleen.

Bugs, Information, Insects, Websites

Fall and the Invasion of the Earwigs

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As fall arrives, many gardeners notice an increase in earwigs lurking around their plants. These small, dark brown insects with pincers on their tails can look a bit intimidating, but their impact on your garden is a mix of good and bad.

Earwigs get their name from the old European myth that they crawl into your ears and tunnel into your brain to lay their eggs while you are sleeping. YIKES! Lucky for us, this old wives’ tale is not true. But the pincers on the back on an earwig’s body are still enough to freak people out. 

Earwigs are most active at night and can often be found hiding in damp, dark spots during the day. In the fall, they seek shelter from the cooler weather, often in garden beds, under mulch, or in piles of leaves. While earwigs have a bad reputation for munching on plants, their role in the garden isn’t all negative.

On the downside, earwigs do eat leaves, flowers, and vegetables like lettuce, strawberries, and soft fruits, which can cause damage to your garden. However, they don’t typically cause significant harm unless their population is out of control like in a season that’s wetter than normal.

On the positive side, earwigs help clean up the garden by eating decaying plant matter and even feeding on pests like aphids and mites. This makes them useful in keeping some pest populations down naturally. Earwigs will even eat other earwigs!

If you find earwigs causing damage, there are simple ways to manage them. Traps made from rolled-up newspaper or damp cardboard can attract them overnight. In the morning, simply dispose of the traps.

While earwigs can cause some harm to plants, they also play a helpful role in garden cleanup and pest control, making them a creature worth understanding in the fall garden ecosystem.

Resources

https://www.environmentalpestcontrol.ca/blog/earwigs-good-bad-ugly

https://www.growveg.com/guides/dealing-with-earwigs-in-your-vegetable-garden/

Information, Seeds, Websites

Saving Seeds

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By Judy Bernard, Master Gardener

When I was asked to put together an article on seed saving for our local Horticultural Society’s newsletter, I thought it would also be a good topic for this forum. Seed collecting can be a fun activity. You can share the seeds with other gardeners and trade for some varieties you don’t have in your garden.

Some things are quite obvious; like pumpkin seeds and squash seeds that you save, dry, and keep for the next year. Vegetable seeds too can be saved, like beans and peas when they get too ripe to eat; let them mature on the plants until the pods are dry and harvest the seeds.

By not deadheading some flowers, you can let them  go to seed and collect the seeds when the flower heads have dried. Many plants will self-seed like the dandelions we see all over our lawns. By collecting seeds we have some control over where they will grow.

For the most part, the majority of plants flower yearly, however there are those that only come into flower every other year like Hollyhocks and members of the carrot family. This can be frustrating if you forget where you have seeds planted or scattered like I do. This link describes types of plants.

For most seeds, we don’t have to do anything else except collect the seeds, and plant them the following year. Others do need special treatment:

  • Fermentation – A process where the outer gelatinous “skin” (my term) is removed from the seeds of such vegetables as tomatoes and cucumbers.
  • Scarification – Some seed shells are so hard that they need to be abraded or sanded/scratched to allow moisture to get into the seed germ.
  • Stratification – Some seeds need a period of cold to allow them to germinate. Winter sowing is a form of this strategy.

Some seeds are viable for a long time, others not so. To check viability, wet a paper towel and partly wring it out. It should be wet but not dripping. Put a few seeds on one half of the towel, fold the other half of the  towel over seeds and put in a plastic bag and seal. Within a few days you will be able to tell if the seeds germinate or not.

Seeds need to be stored in a dry cool environment. I keep mine in a labeled paper envelope in a larger plastic box in the basement.

For more information on seed saving check out this excellent article from the University of Minnesota.

Have fun with this aspect of gardening!

Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Books, Butterflies and Moths, Information, Insects, Native Plants, Perennials, Propagation, Seeds, Winter Sowing

Book Review – The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Wow. What a pleasure to finally see this book in print. Written by two very knowledgeable Ontario gardeners — Rick Gray and Shaun Booth — this is the native plant gardening resource I wish I had more than 5 years ago when I started incorporating native plants in my garden.

Focused specifically on the Southern Great Lakes Region, it’s an all-in-one, easy to use resource for those interested in plants that not only look wonderful but fulfill a critical role in our gardens in supporting wildlife,  birds, and pollinators like butterflies, moths, bees, and insects.

It reminds me of an encyclopedia, with a full page spread on each native plant (and there’s over 150!). It’s not surprising to me that’s it’s already #4 on the Globe & Mail’s bestseller list.

The book is visually designed to make it easy to see key information at a glance, using quick guide key icons and two colour-coded bars providing exposure/light and moisture requirements. We’ve been blessed with several excellent native plant books in the past few years, but I appreciated several unique elements I hadn’t seen before – numerous appendices (matching soil types, seed collection and preparation, propagation, and butterflies and their host plants), as well as each plant’s Ontario’s Species at Risk status.

You’ll understand what each plant needs to thrive, how big they will get, and how to make more plants to share with your friends!

Sample spread page

As a Peterborough Master Gardener I have long been engaged in two Facebook groups – the Ontario Native Plant Gardening group (started by Shaun) and the Master Gardeners of Ontario group (where I am an admin and moderator). I remember clearly in May 2023 Rick trying to gauge interest from members on their proposed native plant book, and the incredibly positive response that they received. So full disclosure – I knew I was going to love this book before it was ever published.

The authors explain why the plants are organized by botanical/Latin name, which is important because common names can vary by region. However, if you only know the common name you can always search using the alphabetical index at the back of the book.

Essentially, each entry is a ‘checklist in a page’ on what you need to grow the plant. There are lots of photos (whole plant, leaves, flowers, fruiting bodies), a detailed description, easy to see symbols (the Quick Guide), information on the USDA Hardiness Zone, lifespan, propagation, and wildlife/pollinator value.  

Skill levels are also mentioned but don’t be alarmed – most are listed as beginner, but there are certainly a few native plants that are a bit more challenging to grow and propagate.

Table of Contents plus shameless plug for my wonderful local, independent bookstore where I ordered the book.

I appreciate that in the introductory chapters the authors clearly explain things such as:

  • What is a native plant?
  • Aggressive vs invasive
  • Origin of the term weed
  • Nativar vs cultivar
  • Value of native plants

The authors clearly have a good sense of humour – there are pages titled “How to use this book”, “A coneflower by any other name”, “Fifty shades of…shade” and my favourite “2b or not 2b” (on the rationale for using USDA Hardiness zones). I loved the section on propagation and codes as I’m actively trying to grow more native plant material in my area.

I have to say that as a seasoned gardener I was surprised to see Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower) is not in the book (not native to most of this region but often sold as a native apparently) and Agastache foeniculum (Anise hyssop) is one that is included specifically because it is non-native to Ontario (it’s a western prairie plant). Oops! I have both in my garden north of Peterborough.

Was anything missing? Technically no, as the authors were clear that this was not a garden design book. Perhaps after putting out Vol. 2 (the other 150+ plants I know they wanted to include), they’ll consider something on understanding planting density and creating root competition, which I am learning is different to conventional perennials, and good plant pairings (which native plants support others).

One quick comment I will add is that native plants are wonderful once they are established, so you may need to do a bit of watering that first year, but after that they need no watering or fertilizing.

If you’re interested in hearing about how this book came to be check out Rick’s Native Plant Gardener website.

This book is perfect for reading at home (my husband gave me a quick quiz contest this afternoon on the Latin names) or taking with you to your local nursery as you search for native plants to add to your garden. Having trouble finding these plants? The Halton Region Master Gardeners maintain a dynamic map listing native plant nurseries around the province. Check it out!

The bottom line – a wonderful addition to my garden library, and to anyone interested in incorporating more native plants in their Ontario gardens.

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The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

By Rick Gray and Shaun Booth
Publisher: ‎Firefly Books, 2024
Paperback‏:‎ 352 pages ISBN-10: 0-2281-0460-2
Price: C$45.00; available through local booksellers and larger book companies

About the Authors

Rick Gray (The Native Plant Gardener) has more than 300 species of native plants in his garden in southwestern Ontario and provides native plant garden design services.

Shaun Booth runs In Our Nature, an ecological garden design business, and launched the Ontario Native Plant Gardening group on Facebook.

Want More Information?

Many wonderful books on native plant gardening and naturalization have been published in the past few years – anything by Lorraine Johnson is a great complement to this book, and I love Piet Oudolf’s work (although he doesn’t always use native plants).

Dr Linda Chalker-Scott (and the Garden Professors blog on Facebook) is a great source of good, solid scientific information on gardeners keen to avoid the misinformation often seen on social media.

And if you’re on Facebook, please follow both the Master Gardeners of Ontario and Ontario Native Plant Gardening groups.

Other Native Plant Blog Posts By Me

A Few of My Favourite Native Plants

Native Ontario Goldenrods for Your Garden

Why Do We Garden?

Ditch Lilies – A Cautionary Tale

The KISS Principle – Winter Sowing 101