Category Archives: Advice

Advice, Garden Design, Greenhouses, Herbs, Planting, Vegetable Gardening

Cold Frames – A Mini Greenhouse in Your Garden

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by Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

I’m sipping my coffee on the deck, overlooking my vegetable garden. Everything shows signs of fall. The onions and garlic have been harvested. The green beans are finished for the season and are ready for the compost pile. The zucchini and summer squash are suffering from powdery mildew, and the tomatoes are carrying the last few fruits of the season. Although summer is ending, the fall gardening season is just beginning – and I have a secret weapon: a cold frame.

Why Cold Frames Work

Several leafy green vegetables can survive and even thrive in cooler temperatures. Kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, and spinach produce sugars that lower the freezing point of water in their cells, protecting them from damaging ice crystals. These crops tend to bolt in the heat of summer but thrive in the crisp days of fall. Still, even hardy plants will eventually succumb to our harsh Canadian winters.

That’s where a cold frame comes in – you can significantly extend your growing season with one. Imagine brushing snow off your cold frame in November to harvest fresh kale for a salad!

Cold frame basics (Source: “Large Cold Frame” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0)

What Is a Cold Frame?

A cold frame is a low, bottomless structure with a transparent lid that protects plants from wind and cold. The lid lets sunlight in, while the insulated base traps heat and creates a microclimate that can run several degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Ventilation is key – open the lid on sunny days to prevent overheating and ensure proper airflow.

Cold frames come in various styles depending on budget, materials, and space.

Types of Cold Frames

Traditional Cold Frame
Built from wood with an angled, hinged top – this could use glass, polycarbonate, or heavy plastic. They can be permanent or portable and built with reclaimed or new materials. An old window makes a perfect lid.

Straw Bale Cold Frame
 Stack straw bales to form a frame and cover with windows or plastic sheeting. Straw provides insulation and can be reused or composted in spring.

Hot Bed
 A sunken bed filled with compostable material such as horse manure, straw, or poultry bedding, covered with soil and topped with a cold frame. As the material decomposes, it generates heat, warming the soil below.

Traditional cold frame using wood and an old window (Source:“cold-frame-in-winter” by The Art of Doing Stuff, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Straw bale cold frame (Source: “Quick coldframe, straw bales and old windows” by Irene Kightley, CC BY-SA 2.0 – Flickr)

Need a visual? Watch DIY Cold Frame • Easy How‑to Tutorial with Niki Jabbour to see an easy cold frame build using recycled materials—great for Canadian gardeners. Or for a classic approach, check out How to Build a Cold Frame | This Old House, a clear demo using a salvaged window lid.

Tips for Success

  • Timing is everything: Sow spinach, kale, or lettuce in late August or early September to harvest well into late fall – or even December, depending on snow cover.
  • Ventilation matters: Even on sunny October days, closed frames can overheat. Keep lids open when needed.
  • Spring bonus: In March or April, use your cold frame to start early crops like lettuce or radishes, or to harden off seedlings before planting.

The Quiet Magic of Cold Frames

No matter which style you choose, a cold frame is a valuable addition to any garden. It helps you garden later into the season and gives you a head start in spring.

With one simple structure, you don’t have to say goodbye to your garden when frost arrives. Picture a crisp November morning—brushing snow from the lid and harvesting fresh spinach for breakfast. That’s the quiet magic a cold frame brings to your backyard.

Banner photo “Large Cold Frame With Props” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0

Advice, Climate Change, Compost, Drought, Native Plants, Perennials, Water

Searching for Rain – Rethinking the Future of our Gardens

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By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Heat. Humidity. Thunderstorms but no real rain. Dry soil.

cracked soil and dry leaves

What I wouldn’t give for a week of solid, consistent rain in our gardens. After the March ice storm, followed by a cool, wet spring and high water conditions until May, Mother Nature turned the water faucet off and we haven’t had solid rain for what feels like months.

I rarely have to water our established perennial gardens, which are a mix of native and non-native plants, but this month has been the exception.

So it’s time to think about the future. What can we do so our gardens survive (and thrive) during future dry or drought conditions?

Maintain Healthy Soils

Good soil is the foundation for good plant growth. Anything you can add to your soil like compost or other organic matter will make it easier for roots to penetrate deeper, creating more expansive root systems that can seek out water and nutrients. Check out Master Gardener Sharleen Pratt’s previous blog.

The result? Healthier, more drought-resistant plants. Good soils are better able to absorb surface water runoff, minimize erosion, and access nutrients and sediments.

hands holding soil with small plant seedling

Think About Future Plant Selection

Evaluate your plants for their resistance to dry conditions or drought; look for new plants (hey, who doesn’t want more plants?) that are identified as drought-tolerant or drought-resistant. Group plants according to how much water they need. Ask your local garden centre or nursery staff which plants they recommend.

Consider incorporating more native plants, which generally adapt better, have lower water demands, and fewer pest problems, plus of course the many benefits they provide to our pollinators and wildlife. In Our Nature has some great ideas.

bumble bee on native purple asters
Bumblebee on native asters

Use Mulch

Mulch reduces evaporation, moderates soil temperature, and inhibits weed growth. It is estimated that three quarters of the rain falling on bare soil is lost to plants through evaporation and runoff.

Use compost, wood chips, bark nuggets, shredded bark mulch, shredded leaves, or any other organic material to cover the surface of the soil at least 5 cm in thickness. More info and a deeper dive here.

shredded bark mulch
Shredded wood mulch

Water Well

Long, deep watering encourages roots to go deep down in the soil to where it is moist and a lot cooler. Water less frequently but for longer periods, so water reaches deep into soil. Good thorough watering promotes healthier plants.

Water only when necessary. Most plants will normally wilt in hot sun and then recover when watered. Also, a dry surface is not always a sign of water need. The surface generally dries out first and is not a true indicator of what is going on down deep near the plant root. Make use of a hand trowel or your fingers to check for moisture.

Weed Management

Weeds will compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients. Keep your gardens and areas beneath trees and shrubs weed free. Once the weeds are eradicated, apply mulch.

Consider Alternate Water Collection and Distribution Methods

Water harvesting is a great way to use water from your home’s roof and direct it onto the landscape, where the soil becomes your “holding tank.” The best example is using a rain barrel – we have various rain barrels and tanks in our garden and they are a great investment.

You can also practice ‘passive’ water harvesting by creating depressions that fill with water from the roof runoff or formal rain gardens, both of which help with stormwater runoff issues. Peterborough Greenup Rain Program

Investigate use of soaker hoses or other irrigation techniques using timers, which keep water on the soil and reduce losses by evaporation. Adjust watering frequency and amounts based on season, temperature, and amount of rainfall. Overhead watering uses more water and encourages fungal diseases.

rainwater barrel beside house
Rainwater barrel and water diverters – check out Rainbarrel.ca for location of sales

Practice Water Conservation Everywhere

Not just in your gardens. Water is our most valuable resource. Learn how to reduce water use throughout your house and gardens. The Simple Guide to Water Conservation and Make Every Raindrop Count.

water droplets on leaf
Advice, Information, Light, Sun Gardening

When Plants + Sun = Trouble

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Have you ever gotten a weird red rash or burn after spending time outside? If you were pulling weeds or brushing up against certain plants, you might’ve had something called phytophotodermatitis. It sounds scary, but it’s really just a fancy name for a skin reaction that happens when plant juice meets sunshine.

Here’s how it works: some plants (like wild parsnip, giant hogweed, gas plant (Dictamnus), citrus fruits, dill, parsley, celery, fennel and even carrots) have natural chemicals in them called furanocoumarins. When these chemicals get on your skin and are then exposed to sunlight — especially strong summer sun — your skin can react. It might not hurt at first, but after a day or so you might notice red patches, streaks, or even blistering. It often looks like a burn or a splash mark.

People sometimes mistake it for poison ivy, but phytophotodermatitis is different. Poison ivy causes allergic contact dermatitis due to the urushiol oil in its sap. Phytophotodermatitis is not an allergic reaction, and it doesn’t usually itch. It’s more like a sunburn that was triggered by a plant.

Sometimes the blistering can be quite severe.

The good news? It usually goes away on its own in a few weeks, though it can leave behind darker patches of skin for a while. Severe burns may require medical treatment, including potential debridement (removal of damaged tissue) and skin grafts. Protect the affected area from sunlight for an extended period to prevent further irritation.

To avoid it, wear gloves when gardening, wash your skin after handling plants outdoors, and try to avoid sun exposure right after. And if you’re chopping limes for drinks on a sunny patio — wash your hands and arms!

It’s a sneaky kind of sunburn (or worse!), but a little knowledge goes a long way in preventing it.

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Garden Design, Perennials

Using Broken Branches as Plant Supports

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By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Gardeners and municipal services in Peterborough and areas hit by the ice-storm are busy picking up the broken branches and limbs and using them for city compost and recycling programs.

Another use for some of this wood might be found in our own gardens, repurposing them for use as stakes and supports. The timing for the ice storm was perfect; the broken branches are young and supple and without leaves so they can be bent easily and shaped to suit needs. Small branches can be bent or twisted to create low supports for perennials or annuals that become leggy as the season progresses or to prop up flowers as the plants bloom. Heavier and longer branches can be used as poles for teepees in vegetable gardens for beans and peas or for climbers such as sweet peas and clematis.

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-SA-NC

British and European gardeners have historically avoided plastic and metal as garden supports, instead ‘pea sticks’ are the norm. Pea sticks are usually coppiced hazel branches, but any young pliable wood will work.  Birch, lilac, red dogwood, along with oak and maple twigs and branches are at the top of the list, willow is popular as well but it tends to root and sprout – an advantage or disadvantage depending on where and how it is used. In some cases, a branch with lots of twigs and small growth is the best choice as the plant will grow under and over the branches.  In in other instances the small twigs might appear messy and a visual distraction.  When selecting your sticks, it’s important to take into account your garden aesthetic – are you going for the scrambling abundance of a country garden, or the formal structure of a classic retreat? Sarah Raven, a well-known British gardener has taken things a step further and made an effort to use only native wood when creating plant supports for her vegetable gardens.

In the ice-storm clean up, I collected a few branches for use as supports. My sweet pea seedlings are ready to plant outside, they’ll be perfect growing up and around the broken branch of a very special cornus Kousa, a sad loss from the storm. The long stem on the bottom is cut off at a sharp angle to be pushed into the soft spring soil as deep as possible.  The spread of the small twigs and branches will be close to the ground within easy reach of the seedlings planted around the base where they will quickly grow up and through the twigs and branches. Clematis would also do well on this structure and it’s likely strong enough to withstand several seasons. The popular annual mandevilla vine is another good choice as a climber. All add vertical interest to garden design.

My scrambling cotoneaster became too leggy and suffered a lot this winter. It’s now had a hard prune and I am using the cut offs to create small branch cages around some perennials. Yarrow, nepeta, tradescantia, and phlox are good candidates for this simple approach. Four or more long branches, each about 3’ long and with a similar diameter were chosen.  The new spring growth from the cutoffs will soon turn brown so I snipped off the new

growth and twigs, then pushed the thick end of each branch into the soil about 6” from its base, repeating this at the other three corners, to create four points of a box around the plant. The upright ends of the branches are then bent into hoops towards the opposite corner and wound around one another to create a hoop. More support is provided at the front where the plant flops towards the sun. I’ve made the hoop about 2/3 the final height of the plant and should be able to increase the height a bit by untwisting the ends a bit, if necessary.  At the end of the season, I’ll leave the hoops in place if they are sturdy enough for another season or add them to the compost pile.

My technique is very much that of a beginner; I expect I’ll refine things with more practice. Even still, the natural wood hoops are more appealing than  a plastic pole with string around it. In formal gardens in the UK, I have seen cages of plant supports that are works of art in themselves. It all takes time and patience.

References

Sarah Raven, Using Native Wood Structures (Retrieved May 7, 2025)

Types of Woodland Management, (Retrieved May 7, 2025)

Longfield Gardens, DIY Plant Supports, (Retrieved May 9, 2025)

Gardens Illustrated, How to Make your Own Plant Supports and Protection That Are Easy, Cheap and Full of Charm, (Retrieved May 8, 2025)

Advice, Bees & Pollinators, Compost, Information, Shrubs & Trees

Deadwood in the Garden

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By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

It was my sister that put the notion in my head that I would like a snag in my garden and the recent ice storm provided the opportunity.  A standard Serviceberry cultivar was too broken to save but it left a reasonable and safe trunk for my smallish garden.  It also left some small logs to tuck under shrubs.

Dead wood provides positive impacts to biodiversity as many beneficial species are on the search for dead wood.  ‘Some of these species include cavity nesting birds and mammals, beetles, fungi and other plants and beneficial insects.  Decaying wood positively impacts soil keeping your garden sustainable for years to come’.  https://ecologicaldesignlab.ca/site/uploads/2024/12/04_good-garden-practices.pdf 

Ecologically speaking a snag refers to a standing dead or dying tree, often missing a top or most of the smaller branches.  A snag is also known as a den, cavity or wildlife tree.  The following link (Ottawa Field Naturalists’ Club) provides an excellent description of the importance of wildlife trees to wildlife.  They provide food, safe cavity nesting sites and platforms, roosting and denning sites, hunting perches, display stations and foraging sites for a wide variety of species.  https://ofnc.ca/conservation-how-to/the-importance-of-snags-and-downed-logs-to-wildlife. 

Safety first so have a certified arborist advise you on the appropriateness of a potential tree.

Photo:  Top of the snag in author’s garden

Dead wood that is lying in your garden is an excellent addition.  It will be quickly colonized by natural decay fungi known as saprophytic fungi, my new word of the day!  These fungi help recycle the carbon and nutrients stored in woody tissue back into the garden soil which benefits your plants.  A small pile of logs can support many different insects and provide shelter for small mammals, reptiles and amphibians and shelter for over-wintering and hibernating wildlife.  https://www.rhs.org.uk/wildlife/dead-wood-compost-heap-habitats  This may not make everybody’s heart sing but I like the idea.

Photo:  A favourite chunk of wood in author’s garden

The small snag I now have may be more ecologically beneficial as a log on the ground but I have some ideas for it.  I plan on providing some support on it for a vine, maybe a Apios americana (American Groundnut).  There will probably be a small birdhouse attached.  The new logs have joined other decaying wood that I use as garden edging and garden decoration. 

One man’s garbage is another man’s treasure!

Advice, Annuals, Disease, Forcing Plants, Planting, Seeds

Horticultural Hiccups

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By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

At times, these blogs seem a little like an Instagram Post. We show our successes in the hope of inspiring you and in turn, provide something of value to you.  However, that can be a little intimidating to less experienced gardeners. Today, I thought I would showcase some of my 2025 failures (so far).

Lisianthus germination (or not)

Lisianthus

This one is a heartbreaker! In January, I had almost 100% germination of my lisianthus. A couple weeks after germination, they looked like this.

What happened? After reading somewhere that cinnamon prevents growth of algae, this grower overzealously applied cinnamon (I had purchased a large bottle at Costco). The covering of spice initially smothered some of the young seedlings.  I then tried to rectify the situation by wetting the plants (cinnamon is extremely hard to wet). 

The overwatering led to a slow decline, killing more seedlings by rotting the roots.  All was not lost however, I potted up the remaining seedlings into other containers and they have been growing on.  Hopefully they will catch up in size over the long growing season.

As Julia Child was fond of saying “everything in moderation….including moderation”

Bells of Ireland

Bells of Ireland

These seeds are notoriously hard to germinate.  They need to be stratified by exposing the seed to cool, moist conditions to help to break dormancy.  The seed is placed on moistened paper towel that is then folded and placed into a Ziploc bag.  Then placed into the fridge for a couple of weeks. After that, remove to a warm place (I use a heat mat). 

After a period of time, the seeds are checked for germination and placed on the surface of prepared soil.  The daily checking goes on for a few days and hopefully you get enough germinated seeds.  This years’ results speak for themselves.  Hard to know what went wrong but it may be the seed source.  My usual source (that does germination testing on every lot) was out of seed so I purchased from another.

Dahlia Splitting

Last fall I used a new method of splitting dahlias that saved time.  I use flagging tape to identify the plants dug up and the tubers being stored.  As the dahlia afternoon wore on, some of the tubers seem to get mixed up and the quality of the labeling seemed to decrease. This tuber might be a Ferncliff Copper and then again, it might not be. Note to self – Take a little more care with the labelling.

Forcing Tulips in Bulb Crates

Seemed like a great idea last October. I do not have a cool place that does not freeze so I opted to chill my bulbs in the refrigerator. Bulbs in paper bags went into the crispers of the fridge for over 14 weeks.  During that time ethylene producing produce could not be kept in the fridge as ethylene can negatively affect bulbs and their bloom. 

After the chill period, bulbs were planted in soiless mix in bulb crates and kept dark for a couple of weeks to develop roots.  The crates were then placed in a sunroom to grow.

I got a total of 20 lovely tulips from about 150 bulbs.  Other bulbs did grow leaves but produced no flowers, some did not grow at all.  When I removed the bulbs from the soil, I did notice reduced root growth on many of the bulbs. This may be from inadequate chilling. 

The crate method is clearly more successful when you can plant the bulbs up in the fall and place in a very cool spot that does not freeze (or a cooler like the flower farmer).  Bulb crates full of soil is messy in the house even if they are on tarps!

Despite these hiccups, I have a roomful of healthy seedlings and large landscape beds awaiting more garden gaffes. 

In the words of Janet Kilburn Phillips “There are no gardening mistakes, only experiments.”

Advice, Climate Change, Information, Planting, Tools

What Zone Am I?

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by Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Having just come back from places where tropicals are growing wildly and flowers are blooming, I wanted to discuss growing zones and the importance of knowing your zone for overwintering plant success of perennials, trees and shrubs.

Plant hardiness zones can be a confusing subject. In Canada, we generally use the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) system because it is the one we often see on labels of the potted plants we purchase at greenhouses and big box stores.

Source: PlantMaps – https://www.plantmaps.com/interactive-ontario-plant-zone-hardiness-map.php

The USDA system was designed in 1960, updated in 2012 and again in 2023. These hardiness zones are determined as “geographic areas that have an average annual minimum temperature of a certain degree.”  No other factors are taken into consideration. There are 13 zones with zone 1 being the coldest and zone 13, the warmest.

Natural Resources Canada has their own system which uses factors that include the number of frost free days, amount of rainfall, snowfall, and wind as well as mean temperatures in the coldest and warmest month. There are 9 zones. Interestingly, Ontario has 7 of these zones.

To complicate things further, there are also ‘a’ and ‘b’ zones. Zone 3a is colder than Zone 3b.

When you look at the government of Canada site, you will see zone dates from 1961-1990 and then an update of 1981-2010. In most cases, zones have moved by at least half a zone. In 2024, Natural Resources Canada was to release an updated version. At press time, I did not find an update.

Plants are described as being hardy to a zone #. If a plant is listed as zone 6, it will survive in Zone 6 or higher. If you live in Zone 4, and try to grow and overwinter a Zone 6 perennial, you will probably not be successful. You are better off to look at lower numbered zones from what your area suggests, to be sure a plant is going to survive and be robust.

Reading plant labels and buying plants that are zone appropriate will help you to have more overwintering success. You will notice on most labels the zone is the USDA system. The label may say “perennial” but look at the zone. A plant can be a perennial…..but only in Florida (Zone 8 or higher).

Other factors for overwintering success include snow cover, wind, and humidity. Snow cover is a great insulator, wind can cause windburn, humidity will help plants stay hydrated.

With climate change happening, our Peterborough area has changed from 5a to 5b which means our average annual minimal temperature has moved from -26.1C to -23.3C.

Below are some towns and cities and their current zones:

  • Bancroft – Zone 4a ( interesting to note, this zone did not change in the update)
  • Haliburton – Zone 4b
  • Port Hope – Zone 6a
  • Pickering – Zone 6a
  • Hamilton – Zone 6b
  • Thunder Bay – Zone 3b
  • Lakefield, Lindsay, Norwood, and Ennismore are all the same as Peterborough’s – Zone 5b

Things to Remember

  • Canadian and American systems are not the same. For instance, Zone 5 under the USDA system should be considered Zone 6 in Canada
  • You can stretch the zones, if you have a micro climate or spot protected from wind, good snow cover and a milder winter

So depending on your gardening confidence, you can stick to Zone 3 or 4 perennials for zonal success or be adventurous and try that beautiful Zone 6 perennial.  Just remember to read your labels and check your zones.

Resources

Hardiness Zone Maps

Canada Plant Hardiness Maps

5th National Climate Assessment and an Update on the Plant Hardiness Zone Map – The Garden Professors

Plant hardiness zone maps are not created equal

The Differences Between US and Canadian Plant Hardiness Zones

Advice, Pruning, Shrubs & Trees

Getting Pumped About Pruning

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By Carol Anderson, Master Gardener

What else is there to do in February, other than shovel … so why not begin planning your spring gardening clean-up? In my last blog, I shared with you my invasive ground cover plight and promised to update you in the early summer with my progress on eradicating and controlling the many species on my property. But I didn’t share with you the whole story – that in my excitement over my new home, I failed to look at the overall state on my gardens … more specifically my shrubs. It would appear that the previous homeowner planted somewhere between 20-30 shrubs about 17 years ago … and then forgot about them! So in addition to my “ground cover grievances”, I also have some “bothersome bushes”! Let me share with you my plan-of-attack to address overgrown flowering shrubs in my garden using a few examples that you will recognize.

Although pruning supports the growth of healthy and robust plants, it is one of the most inconsistent and often poorly executed garden techniques. Pruning is not only essential to maintaining plant health, but also an essential practice used to improve the quality of the plant (e.g. flowers or yield), “train” plants (shape and structure), and control their size. Perhaps the reason that pruning is avoided by many gardeners is because proper pruning takes careful planning and execution; knowing your plants growth patterns and life cycle will determine pruning time and technique to be used. The general rule of thumb, as you likely know, is that if the shrub blooms in the spring (e.g. common lilac, bridal wreath spirea, some ninebark), then most likely the flowers bloom from buds formed on last years’ growth. Therefore, pruning after flowering enables new growth to become established in preparation for flowering the following year. In contrast, most summer blooming shrubs (e.g. hydrangea, hibiscus) will flower on “new growth”, therefore they require a late winter/early spring prune to stimulate new growth for flowering in the same year. 

In general, your garden pruning is undertaken as follows

Step 1.

Create a pruning plan based on each shrub’s needs and growth habits.  Include timing and any specific needs of the shrub and any notes you made from last year’s observations.

Step 2,

Sanitation pruning (removing dead, dying and broken branches) should be carried out on all shrubs in the spring and fall and as needed throughout the growing season, regardless of the flowering time.

Step 3.

Pruning approach. The approach will depend upon the objective. Thinning (removing older branches to their point of origin) is used to improve vigour by stimulating growth throughout the plant, as well as air and light penetration. This is most often done when the shrub is overcrowded. Heading back (pruning back to a lateral branch or node with an outward facing bud lower on the stem) is used to improve overall vigour and bushiness (by diverting energy to the new growth) and to enhance flowering.

However, given that most of my flowering shrubs are overgrown and will likely not produce as they should, I need to utilize additional (more drastic) pruning techniques as follows:

Group 1. Very overgrown, dense mat of old growth, minimal flowering and damaged branches/potential for disease.

e.g. Common ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius), Bridal wreath spirea (Spirea prunifoloia), and Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

Reserved for only the most neglected and problematic shrubs … Extensive Rejuvenation (or Renewal) Pruning!  This technique requires pruning the entire shrub down to 6-10” from the ground in the Spring and then pruning out ½ of the new growth mid-summer and heading back the other ½ of the new growth to encourage bushiness. Not all flowering Shrubs can tolerate this. If these shrubs show signs of disease, they will be removed.

Group 2. Flowers evident, branches spindly/lack vigour/bushiness.

e.g. Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

Gradual Rejuvenation (renewal) Pruning. This method is intended to truly rejuvenate a plant, while maintaining its’ overall appearance, making it more attractive during the renewal process. The technique requires 3 years, removing 1/3 of the oldest growth each year.

Group 3. Shrub has foliage but limited flowering and stunted growth.

e.g. Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

Although a Rose of Sharon does not usually need regular pruning (unless to manage shape or size), it would appear that heading back would be beneficial to stimulate vigour, new growth and budding. It is likely that this shrub may also need some specific fertilizer in Spring to stimulate growth and bud formation or soil amendments to acidify the soil.

As always, stay tuned and in my next blog I will update everyone on my invasive groundcover and overgrown shrub approaches (what worked, what didn’t and what next)!!!

Advice, Garden Cleanup, Garden Design, Information

Five Great Garden Practices for the New Year

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By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

With the new year days away, resolutions for 2025 might be on your mind. Here are a few easy garden practices you might want to include in those New Year’s Resolutions.

  1. Keep a record.

Have a file, record on your computer, write in a journal, put plant tags in a zip lock bag by year. Write on your tags the year & where you planted. It is important to know which hydrangea you planted, so if you need to research how to prune or how large it should get or if you want to purchase another, you will have that information. When you keep tags or record what annuals you plant, if it is something you want to repeat, you will have the exact variety when you go shopping the next spring. There are so many varieties of so many plants.

  • Keep things clean.

Disease is often spread through the tools we use. Have a pack of wet wipes in your tool box & clean tools after each use. Sharpen tools at the end of gardening season, so they are clean & ready to go in spring.  Although you should use leaves as compost, don’t leave diseased plants in your gardens. Place them in your green garbage. Keep houseplant soil free of fallen leaves as well.

  • Keep yourself healthy.

Stretch before going into the garden to do manual work. Limit yourself to an amount of time that is good for you and your body and stop when your time is up….your garden will be there when you come back. Take your water bottle with you. Wear gloves & hat to protect yourself. Don’t work in the blazing sun…. bad for you & your plants.

  • Do your research.

Right plant in the right spot will give you more chance of success. If you plant a water loving perennial in a dry sandy spot, the plant will suffer or fail. Planting a tall annual at the front of your bed will obscure the pretty ones behind it. Use the internet, but make sure you are using reputable sites where knowledgeable gardeners are sharing good information. Look for articles written by Master Gardeners or university professors or scientists. Look for websites that end with “edu.” You can also contact Peterborough Master Gardeners online (peterboroughmastergardeners.com) to ask questions or check out what events we will be at in 2025.

  • Enjoy your gardens.

Remember, you garden because you get enjoyment from your hard work. Wander through your garden, peaking at the new sprouts coming up or the gorgeous flowers opening. Breath deep. Enjoy the birds, insects and wildlife that visit. Research shows that gardening and being in nature help our minds, bodies & souls.

Happy New Year! From Peterborough Master Gardeners

Advice, Invasive, Perennials

When Ground Cover Plants Take Over

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By Carol Anderson, Master Gardener

When I recently purchased a new home, I was too preoccupied with the beautiful lake view to truly notice some of the gardening challenges that lay ahead for me. Once I began the process of itemizing what garden treasures I had, I became acutely aware of the gardening style of my predecessor … a style that included utilizing ground cover plants to “fill in” raised beds … and apparently the faster they spread, the better!!! The challenge I have ahead of me is the removal or containment of numerous ground covers that have invaded every inch of the property. In this segment I will briefly touch on the management and/or extraction of 4 different commonly used ground covers that range from just “annoying” to outright invasive.

Chameleon Plant,  Bugleweed, Yellow Archangel, Periwinkle

Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans):

Although not considered invasive, Bugleweed can become problematic if left on its own without management, as it has a tendency to spread into adjacent lawn areas. I personally like the dark burgundy-red foliage, however, on my property it has spread across an entire garden and into the lawn. Bugleweed spreads through “shallow” underground runners with new baby plants popping up at the end of the runners. As a result, it is not impossible to remove nor contain. In the spring, I will be digging up the new plants all around the edge of the garden border and installing edging below the garden surface to stop the spread into the lawn. Periodic thinning (by digging up and removing some of the parent plants in the clump) will help to keep it manageable as well.

Yellow Archangel or Golder Deadnettle (Lamium galeobdolon):

Although Lamium is a common ground cover used in many garden applications, it is invasive in Ontario. It has infested natural areas and will out-compete native groundcovers in the wild. Lamium  spreads by plant fragments, rooting along the surface on the stems (see photo below). However, it also can spread by seed which can then be carried into natural environments by birds.  For this reason, I will be completely removing it from several of the large shade gardens on the property and replacing with native species. Luckily it spreads along the surface and can be removed by mechanical means. This will be another spring project in the garden and once fully extracted, I will begin investigating other options such as anemone, wild ginger, bunchberry dogwood and ostrich fern for the heavily shaded areas of the garden.

Periwinkle (Vinca minor):

Periwinkle is a very common shade groundcover used by gardeners. It is considered to be invasive as it spreads quickly given the right climatic conditions. It poses a threat to natural biodiversity as it can out-compete other forest understory plants. However, because it spreads by rooting along the stems on the surface of the ground (stolons), it can be contained through proper management of the plant. I plan to dig up the roots and plants and cut back the excessive amount of Periwinkle in the garden, interspersing it with other shade loving plants. This will require ongoing observation and management on my part. 

Chameleon Plant (Houttuynia cordata):

Avoid, avoid, avoid. Although an attractive groundcover, chameleon plant will invade your garden and lawn very quickly and became completely unmanageable. It is a non-native that spreads by a highly dense deep underground network of roots (rhizomes)(see pics below). Even a small segment of root left behind will live and spread for years to come making eradication very difficult. This fall, I began digging around the perimeter of the patch well outside of where the plant is visible on the surface. I dug down 12 inches and was still running into dense mats of roots!!!  I then sifted through the soil to remove all plant segments and put the soil back. At this point I have just begun the process of eradication (Step 1) and will keep you posted on my progress in my blog next spring. If I need to resort to solarization (using the sun’s heat to kill the plants under plastic), then this might be the next step for me. Stay tuned!!!

If you are a fan of using plants as groundcover in your gardens and raised beds, proceed with caution. If it spreads quickly, filling in bare areas, then it is likely invasive at worst and hard to manage at best. Proceed with caution and be prepared to observe and manage the groundcover to avoid the situation where the plant literally takes over the garden, eliminating all other species. In addition, there are many native Ontario alternatives to the traditional groundcovers…try them out and enjoy (https://www.inournature.ca/native-groundcovers).