Category Archives: Advice

Growing Wilderness in the United Kingdom

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

This autumn, I’ve had the incredible experience of doing a teaching exchange at Hartpury University in Gloucestershire, England.  In between teaching, hiking, and bird banding, I was able to cycle over 300 miles of beautiful English country lanes, stopping at castles, nature reserves, and some incredible gardens along the way.

Hidcote Manor

Walking through the gates of Hidcote Manor in the Cotswolds, it is easy to feel as though you’ve stepped into a painting. The clipped hedges, winding paths, and carefully designed garden rooms are alive with the hum of pollinators and the flutter of birds. Down the road at Sudeley Castle, wildflower meadows are stitched into the landscape, part of a growing movement in the UK to “rewild” gardens, restore soils through regenerative farming practices, and build habitats that bring nature (yes, hedgehogs!) back into cultivated spaces.  Interactive songbird huts, topiary animals, and forest school playforts do their best to situate nature at the heart for all ages.

Hidcote Manor

As a Conservation Biologist, this experience has offered very good perspective.  In Britain, every hedge, flower border, and restored meadow is a choice made against the backdrop of land pressure. With centuries of agricultural intensification and urban sprawl, biodiversity has been whittled down and what is left is very small, isolated, and still heavily managed by humans.  The birds that flit in the hedgerows, the butterflies in the long grasses, and the rare orchids tucked into meadow corners are treasures precisely because they are fragile—and rare.

Hidcote Manor

This sense of loss combined with preciousness shapes the way the British approach gardening: nature is folded into design not as ornament but as necessity. Even the grandest estates now showcase pollinator gardens, bird-friendly planting, and soil-friendly techniques that acknowledge the land’s limits.  My teaching partner in the department here summed this up pithily when she said: “We don’t conserve wilderness, we have to grow it alongside our tomatoes.” 

Hidcode Manor

This past summer, much of Britain faced a severe drought. Gardens once lush with green lawns and blooming perennials turned brittle and brown, testing the resilience of even the most historic estates. For visitors, it was a stark reminder that climate change is rewriting the rules of gardening everywhere. Those manicured, clipped expanses of green that once symbolized order and wealth are now increasingly viewed as unsustainable. Pressure is mounting for landowners to let go of the perfect lawn and instead embrace wilder, woodier landscapes that store carbon, provide shade, and create habitat for wildlife. What was once considered unruly is being reimagined as resilience—an acceptance that in the face of climate change, neatness cannot take precedence over nature.

For Canadians, the contrast is striking. Canada is a country of seeming abundance: boreal forests that stretch for thousands of kilometers, wetlands that teem with migratory birds, and prairies that still hold echoes of bison herds. Diversity here can feel endless, and because of that, sometimes it is taken for granted.  

Yet, abundance should not breed complacency. Canada faces its own ecological crises—loss of grasslands, declining pollinator populations, and habitat fragmentation in every province. There is much to learn from Britain’s careful stewardship of what little remains, especially in recognizing that a garden is not just personal space, but part of a shared ecological fabric.

Standing between the flower borders of Hidcote and the meadows of Sudeley, the lesson is clear. British gardens show how intentionality can transform even limited landscapes into havens of biodiversity, while Canadian gardens remind us of the wealth we still have—and the responsibility to protect it. In both places, the garden is more than a private retreat. It is a living classroom, teaching us how to care for what is precious, whether rare or abundant, in a changing world.

Thom Luloff is a Professor of Conservation Biology at Fleming College.

The Price of Growth: How Plant Propagation Shapes Plant Prices

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

While shopping for plants at my local big box store recently, I came across a beautiful Monstera Thai Constellation at a reasonable price. If you’re a plant collector like me, you might think, that’s awesome! If you’re not, you might ask, what’s a Thai Constellation, and what’s the big deal?

Serious plant collectors can tell you what’s trending in the market and the crazy prices these plants sell for. Thai constellations are a natural sport of standard Monsteras, with showy variegated leaves (whereas the standard plant is solid green).

In the last few years, specimens have been selling for hundreds of dollars in specialty shops – but now they are readily available in large quantities at relatively low prices in big box stores. Why the change? To understand this, you need to understand propagation techniques.

Seed Starting

When you purchase your annual flowering plants in the spring, chances are they were started from seed at the nursery. Many plants (marigolds, zinnias, and celosia) are easy to start from seed and grow quickly, making seed starting a cost effective method of propagation for nurseries. So easy in fact, that many people start their own at home using this same method.

Division

Some plants are propagated using division. Think of your garden in the Spring when hostas begin popping up. You can use a spade to cut the plant in two, instantly doubling your plants. Some tropical plants are propagated using this method, including snake plants and calathea.

Grafting

Grafting is the horticultural technique of joining two different plants to grow together as one. When you purchase a Honeycrisp apple tree from a garden center, the tree is a Honeycrisp stem (scion) grafted onto the rootstock of another apple variety. Honeycrisp won’t grow true to seed and must be grafted in order to produce true fruit.

Cuttings

Have you ever cut a stem from a house plant and rooted it in water on a windowsill? Nurseries use this technique on a much larger scale. Using stem cuttings and growing medium, nurseries can produce large quantities of plants for sale (although this does require time to allow the cuttings to grow into small plants). Pothos are a great example of plants that are easily propagated through stem cuttings.

Tissue Culture

This brings us back to the Thai Constellation. Monsteras are easily
propagated through stem cuttings, but growing one variegated offshoot
for stem cuttings takes time. Tissue culture is a relatively new practice in the houseplant industry, where plant tissue is grown in a nutrient rich medium to produce a large volume of plants in a laboratory setting. These plants are a clone of the mother plant, ensuring consistent characteristics within large scale production. Tissue culture can produce plants on a large scale fairly quickly, driving down the cost of new, rare variations.

One plant can take years to grow into a small, steady supply of plants. Low supply and high demand results in high prices for buyers.

With advancements in propagation methods like tissue culture, the once-exclusive world of rare plants is becoming more accessible to everyday plant lovers. What was once only available to collectors willing to pay top dollar can now be found in the garden section of your local store.

Understanding how propagation influences both supply and cost helps explain market trends and reminds us that behind every “rare” plant, there’s often a bit of science making it possible for more people to enjoy its beauty.

Where’s the Flare?

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

Let’s talk root flares on trees.  The root flare is the part of the tree where the trunk turns into the roots and the root flare needs to be at the soil surface. 

Photo:  Root flare of a young Ironwood tree, Ostrya virginiana in author’s garden.

People are often counseled that plants should be planted in the ground at the same level they were planted in the pot.  In my tree and shrub planting experience I have usually found the root flare submerged in the potting medium.  If I planted at this same level, it would mean their roots would be buried too deeply.  Roots need oxygen and when they don’t get enough, they are not efficient at taking up water or nutrients which thereby starves the rest of the plant.  Some trees can struggle along for a number of years but extra soil on top of fine roots can mean an early death sentence for your tree.  It gives some truth to the adage “plant it high it won’t die, plant it low, it won’t grow”.

Photo:  This shrub’s root flare was buried approximately 9 cm in potting medium.

When I bring home a woody plant, I like to get the potting medium off the roots by root washing the root ball.  Root washing is a process very well described by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott.  https://gardenprofessors.com/why-root-washing-is-important-an-illustrated-cautionary-tale/  It is helpful to have a dormant plant (although I don’t always practice what I preach) and to do this on a cool day in the shade.  I put the root ball in my wheelbarrow and use the hose to rinse/blast the potting medium off.   Sometimes this can take quite a while!  Then I look at the root ball to establish where the root flare is and to also check for and remove problematic circling and adventitious roots (roots that grow from non-root plant tissues such as stems).  When planting I backfill with the soil removed from the planting hole and mulch with a wood chip mulch.  It is best not to mulch with sheet mulching like cardboard or paper and never, never, never with landscape fabric.

Providing the best planting situation for your new tree or shrub will hopefully promote the best growth possible.

Photo: Picture of a perfect flare on a deciduous tree.

Resource

Chalker-Scott, L.  How Plants Work (2015).  Timber Press Inc, Portland, Oregon.

All photos by Lois Scott

The Five Stages of November Gardening: From Denial to Hibernation

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

November can be a odd and awkward time for gardeners. The blooms of summer are long gone, and even the hardiest plants are starting to fade. As we temporarily pack up our tools for winter, many of us go through something like the five stages of grief—only with more dirt under our fingernails than we usually have when grieving.

1. Denial
It starts with pretending the frost and snow aren’t really that bad. You convince yourself that a touch of frost won’t actually kill your tomatoes and that they’ll bounce back by noon when they get a bit warmer. Spoiler: They won’t.

2. Anger
Then comes the frustration. Why did you forget to cover the basil? Why didn’t the weather app warn you about that early freeze? You glare at the sky, muttering about how unfair it all is, and plan to move south at the earliest opportunity.

3. Bargaining
You start making deals with nature: “If I bring the pots inside, maybe they’ll survive.” You shuffle plants indoors, rearranging windowsills in a desperate act of hope with space in the south window at a serious premium. You conveniently forget that most plants won’t actually survive inside of our dry as a desert homes—but you’ve gotta try, right?

4. Mulching
Reality sets in, and you finally take action. You clean up the garden beds (leaving flower stalks for our nesting insects, of course), spread mulch, finally finish planting those tulip bulbs, and then tuck everything in for winter. The tools have been oiled and the mushy hosta leaves are in the composter, just in time for the fluffy stuff to start falling. It’s a quiet, grounding ritual—part farewell, part promise to return but mostly it’s acceptance of our fate as Canadians in a four season climate.

5. Hibernation
At last, peace. You sip tea by the window, dream over seed catalogs, and plan next year’s garden. November reminds us that rest is part of the growing cycle too—and even gardeners need a little dormancy.

Toxic Indoor Plants and Your Pets: A Guide

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

While I like to think of myself as a decent outdoor gardener, the same cannot be said of my indoor houseplant expertise.

However, I have worked hard at it over the years and we’ve had some lovely Clivia, various cactus, some Pothos, a Norfolk Island pine, and a goldfish plant (Columnea gloriosa) in my office at various times.

My pre-2018 houseplants (my Mum’s cat Cleo showed no interest at all)

This was pre-2018, when my indoor kitties had no interest in my houseplants, and no nibbles were had.

That all changed when these two arrived in October 2018 – meet Lulu and Roxy.

Meet Lulu and Roxy – our tuxedo and ginger and white female cats (respectively).

While I love both of them, Lulu’s favourite activities are digging in the dirt and chewing on plants. Roxy just likes to rub up against them, knock them over and then maybe have a nibble.

While indoor plants can add beauty and life to your home, it’s essential to be aware of their potential toxicity to our furry friends. Certain plants can be harmful or even fatal to pets, especially cats and dogs. Understanding which plants are safe and which to avoid is crucial for ensuring a pet-friendly environment.

Many common indoor plants are toxic to pets, such as Pothos (Devil’s Ivy), which causes vomiting and oral irritation in cats and dogs, lilies (which are particularly dangerous for cats) and sago palms, which are extremely toxic, especially to dogs, causing severe liver damage. The Ontario SPCA has a list of the 17 most poisonous plants, but it’s not an exhaustive list.

If you suspect your pet has ingested a toxic plant, it’s best to consult a veterinarian immediately. Look for signs such as difficulty breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, or lethargy. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.

Reliable Resources on Plant Toxicity for Pet Owners

Here are some reputable websites offering advice on pet safety and plant toxicity:

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals’ (ASPCA’s) Animal Poison Control Center
A comprehensive and excellent searchable list of toxic and non-toxic plants.

Pet Poison Helpline Canada
Assistance for pet owners who suspect poisoning, including plant toxicity resources (there is a cost).

PetMD
Plants poisonous to cats
Plants poisonous to dogs
Detailed information on animal health and safety, including plant toxicity.

So What Plants Can I Have In My House?

If you’re looking to enhance your home with pet-friendly plants, here are a few options for you to consider. Personally, I find the palms, ferns and spider plants still tough to have in our house because I think our cats will gravitate to anything that is grass-like.

Unfortunately if your cat or dog is a habitual nibbler, you might be better off without houseplants altogether. We love our kitties more than we love our houseplants. For now I’ll just stick to my Phalaenopsis orchids and my various seasonal cactus and focus my gardening efforts on the outside of our house.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
African Violet  (Saintpaulia ionantha)
Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)
Orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.)
Easter, Christmas or Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera or Rhipsalidopsi spp.)
Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae)      
Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea seifrizii)
Sword/Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
Nerve Plant (Fittonia)   
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Hoya (Hoya carnosa)   
Gerber Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii)         
Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)
Calathea (Calathea spp.)
Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa)
Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
Friendship Plant (Pilea involucrata)

Also have a look at this Laidback Gardener post.

The Magic of Transformation

By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

As we draw closer to the Autumn Equinox, my thoughts dwell more frequently on the topic of fall planted bulbs.  For me, they evoke a powerful sense of anticipation similar to what I felt as a child when the Eaton’s and Simpson’s Christmas catalogues arrived.  The suspense and delayed gratification that both provide is beyond words.  A seemingly lifeless bulb has the potential to create a stunning spring display of bloom after the harshness of the Canadian winter!

Participating in this ritual is easy with not too many things to looks for.  When purchasing in person, look for the largest bulb for the type you can find (good quality tulips are typically 12+ cm in circumference, daffodils may be larger or smaller depending on variety).  The larger the bulb, the more blooms that you will have in the spring.  Bulb size is probably most important in tulips as not all varieties size up well once planted.  Major bulbs known to perennialize (narcissus, allium for example) will size up.  I once bought some Leucojum (summer snowflake) bulbs late in the year locally knowing nothing about them, planted them and had to wait 2 years for bloom. They were worth the wait. Last year, I dug some of them up and the bulbs were at least three times the size of what I planted.  Bulbs should also be plump and firm with no mold or black spots.

Local nurseries are a good source of bulbs as are some of the larger outlets with nurseries. 

More frequently, bulbs are purchased online.  Online suppliers will usually be able to provide bulb size and the bulbs they ship should be healthy.  Ask for a recommendation from someone in your horticultural society (there is always at least one bulb nut in every club). Vesey’s and Brecks are long time reputable suppliers of bulbs.  Also, have a look at the local flower farmer’s webpage.  It is quite common for them to retail some of the varieties they have ordered for themselves.  In this area Dahlia May Flower Farm and Antonio Valente Flowers both have attractive offerings each fall.  With online orders of course, there is the additional cost of the shipping.

A British Columbia company, “Wildwood Express” offers packaged bulbs for sale that are sourced from a reputable importer in BC.  They often have last minute sales that are hard to resist and of course end of year sales late in the season.  Bulbs can be planted very late into the season (if the ground can still be worked, and YOU are hardy enough).

Of course, there are often good local sales.  Not for profit organizations often sell bulbs as a fundraiser.  Consider these sales, both to buy some magic and to support a good cause.  In our area the Port Hope Garden Club and the Peterborough Master Gardeners have bulbs for sale. Consult the PMG website for details on their sale and for Port Hope, drop me an email through this website.

Some of us have succumbed to temptation long ago.  For this year, I ordered around 1700 bulbs last spring (less than last year!), have bought some from the club sale in Port Hope and still broke down and ordered a few fancy new narcissus from a flower farmer. 

Cold Frames – A Mini Greenhouse in Your Garden

by Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

I’m sipping my coffee on the deck, overlooking my vegetable garden. Everything shows signs of fall. The onions and garlic have been harvested. The green beans are finished for the season and are ready for the compost pile. The zucchini and summer squash are suffering from powdery mildew, and the tomatoes are carrying the last few fruits of the season. Although summer is ending, the fall gardening season is just beginning – and I have a secret weapon: a cold frame.

Why Cold Frames Work

Several leafy green vegetables can survive and even thrive in cooler temperatures. Kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, and spinach produce sugars that lower the freezing point of water in their cells, protecting them from damaging ice crystals. These crops tend to bolt in the heat of summer but thrive in the crisp days of fall. Still, even hardy plants will eventually succumb to our harsh Canadian winters.

That’s where a cold frame comes in – you can significantly extend your growing season with one. Imagine brushing snow off your cold frame in November to harvest fresh kale for a salad!

Cold frame basics (Source: “Large Cold Frame” by Ofer El-HashaharCC BY-SA 2.0)

What Is a Cold Frame?

A cold frame is a low, bottomless structure with a transparent lid that protects plants from wind and cold. The lid lets sunlight in, while the insulated base traps heat and creates a microclimate that can run several degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Ventilation is key – open the lid on sunny days to prevent overheating and ensure proper airflow.

Cold frames come in various styles depending on budget, materials, and space.

Types of Cold Frames

Traditional Cold Frame
Built from wood with an angled, hinged top – this could use glass, polycarbonate, or heavy plastic. They can be permanent or portable and built with reclaimed or new materials. An old window makes a perfect lid.

Straw Bale Cold Frame
 Stack straw bales to form a frame and cover with windows or plastic sheeting. Straw provides insulation and can be reused or composted in spring.

Hot Bed
 A sunken bed filled with compostable material such as horse manure, straw, or poultry bedding, covered with soil and topped with a cold frame. As the material decomposes, it generates heat, warming the soil below.

Traditional cold frame using wood and an old window (Source:“cold-frame-in-winter” by The Art of Doing StuffCC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Straw bale cold frame (Source: “Quick coldframe, straw bales and old windows” by Irene KightleyCC BY-SA 2.0 – Flickr)

Need a visual? Watch DIY Cold Frame • Easy How‑to Tutorial with Niki Jabbour to see an easy cold frame build using recycled materials—great for Canadian gardeners. Or for a classic approach, check out How to Build a Cold Frame | This Old House, a clear demo using a salvaged window lid.

Tips for Success

  • Timing is everything: Sow spinach, kale, or lettuce in late August or early September to harvest well into late fall – or even December, depending on snow cover.
  • Ventilation matters: Even on sunny October days, closed frames can overheat. Keep lids open when needed.
  • Spring bonus: In March or April, use your cold frame to start early crops like lettuce or radishes, or to harden off seedlings before planting.

The Quiet Magic of Cold Frames

No matter which style you choose, a cold frame is a valuable addition to any garden. It helps you garden later into the season and gives you a head start in spring.

With one simple structure, you don’t have to say goodbye to your garden when frost arrives. Picture a crisp November morning—brushing snow from the lid and harvesting fresh spinach for breakfast. That’s the quiet magic a cold frame brings to your backyard.

Banner photo “Large Cold Frame With Props” by Ofer El-HashaharCC BY-SA 2.0

Searching for Rain – Rethinking the Future of our Gardens

By Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Heat. Humidity. Thunderstorms but no real rain. Dry soil.

cracked soil and dry leaves

What I wouldn’t give for a week of solid, consistent rain in our gardens. After the March ice storm, followed by a cool, wet spring and high water conditions until May, Mother Nature turned the water faucet off and we haven’t had solid rain for what feels like months.

I rarely have to water our established perennial gardens, which are a mix of native and non-native plants, but this month has been the exception.

So it’s time to think about the future. What can we do so our gardens survive (and thrive) during future dry or drought conditions?

Maintain Healthy Soils

Good soil is the foundation for good plant growth. Anything you can add to your soil like compost or other organic matter will make it easier for roots to penetrate deeper, creating more expansive root systems that can seek out water and nutrients. Check out Master Gardener Sharleen Pratt’s previous blog.

The result? Healthier, more drought-resistant plants. Good soils are better able to absorb surface water runoff, minimize erosion, and access nutrients and sediments.

hands holding soil with small plant seedling

Think About Future Plant Selection

Evaluate your plants for their resistance to dry conditions or drought; look for new plants (hey, who doesn’t want more plants?) that are identified as drought-tolerant or drought-resistant. Group plants according to how much water they need. Ask your local garden centre or nursery staff which plants they recommend.

Consider incorporating more native plants, which generally adapt better, have lower water demands, and fewer pest problems, plus of course the many benefits they provide to our pollinators and wildlife. In Our Nature has some great ideas.

bumble bee on native purple asters
Bumblebee on native asters

Use Mulch

Mulch reduces evaporation, moderates soil temperature, and inhibits weed growth. It is estimated that three quarters of the rain falling on bare soil is lost to plants through evaporation and runoff.

Use compost, wood chips, bark nuggets, shredded bark mulch, shredded leaves, or any other organic material to cover the surface of the soil at least 5 cm in thickness. More info and a deeper dive here.

shredded bark mulch
Shredded wood mulch

Water Well

Long, deep watering encourages roots to go deep down in the soil to where it is moist and a lot cooler. Water less frequently but for longer periods, so water reaches deep into soil. Good thorough watering promotes healthier plants.

Water only when necessary. Most plants will normally wilt in hot sun and then recover when watered. Also, a dry surface is not always a sign of water need. The surface generally dries out first and is not a true indicator of what is going on down deep near the plant root. Make use of a hand trowel or your fingers to check for moisture.

Weed Management

Weeds will compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients. Keep your gardens and areas beneath trees and shrubs weed free. Once the weeds are eradicated, apply mulch.

Consider Alternate Water Collection and Distribution Methods

Water harvesting is a great way to use water from your home’s roof and direct it onto the landscape, where the soil becomes your “holding tank.” The best example is using a rain barrel – we have various rain barrels and tanks in our garden and they are a great investment.

You can also practice ‘passive’ water harvesting by creating depressions that fill with water from the roof runoff or formal rain gardens, both of which help with stormwater runoff issues. Peterborough Greenup Rain Program

Investigate use of soaker hoses or other irrigation techniques using timers, which keep water on the soil and reduce losses by evaporation. Adjust watering frequency and amounts based on season, temperature, and amount of rainfall. Overhead watering uses more water and encourages fungal diseases.

rainwater barrel beside house
Rainwater barrel and water diverters – check out Rainbarrel.ca for location of sales

Practice Water Conservation Everywhere

Not just in your gardens. Water is our most valuable resource. Learn how to reduce water use throughout your house and gardens. The Simple Guide to Water Conservation and Make Every Raindrop Count.

water droplets on leaf

When Plants + Sun = Trouble

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Have you ever gotten a weird red rash or burn after spending time outside? If you were pulling weeds or brushing up against certain plants, you might’ve had something called phytophotodermatitis. It sounds scary, but it’s really just a fancy name for a skin reaction that happens when plant juice meets sunshine.

Here’s how it works: some plants (like wild parsnip, giant hogweed, gas plant (Dictamnus), citrus fruits, dill, parsley, celery, fennel and even carrots) have natural chemicals in them called furanocoumarins. When these chemicals get on your skin and are then exposed to sunlight — especially strong summer sun — your skin can react. It might not hurt at first, but after a day or so you might notice red patches, streaks, or even blistering. It often looks like a burn or a splash mark.

People sometimes mistake it for poison ivy, but phytophotodermatitis is different. Poison ivy causes allergic contact dermatitis due to the urushiol oil in its sap. Phytophotodermatitis is not an allergic reaction, and it doesn’t usually itch. It’s more like a sunburn that was triggered by a plant.

Sometimes the blistering can be quite severe.

The good news? It usually goes away on its own in a few weeks, though it can leave behind darker patches of skin for a while. Severe burns may require medical treatment, including potential debridement (removal of damaged tissue) and skin grafts. Protect the affected area from sunlight for an extended period to prevent further irritation.

To avoid it, wear gloves when gardening, wash your skin after handling plants outdoors, and try to avoid sun exposure right after. And if you’re chopping limes for drinks on a sunny patio — wash your hands and arms!

It’s a sneaky kind of sunburn (or worse!), but a little knowledge goes a long way in preventing it.

Using Broken Branches as Plant Supports

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Gardeners and municipal services in Peterborough and areas hit by the ice-storm are busy picking up the broken branches and limbs and using them for city compost and recycling programs.

Another use for some of this wood might be found in our own gardens, repurposing them for use as stakes and supports. The timing for the ice storm was perfect; the broken branches are young and supple and without leaves so they can be bent easily and shaped to suit needs. Small branches can be bent or twisted to create low supports for perennials or annuals that become leggy as the season progresses or to prop up flowers as the plants bloom. Heavier and longer branches can be used as poles for teepees in vegetable gardens for beans and peas or for climbers such as sweet peas and clematis.

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-SA-NC

British and European gardeners have historically avoided plastic and metal as garden supports, instead ‘pea sticks’ are the norm. Pea sticks are usually coppiced hazel branches, but any young pliable wood will work.  Birch, lilac, red dogwood, along with oak and maple twigs and branches are at the top of the list, willow is popular as well but it tends to root and sprout – an advantage or disadvantage depending on where and how it is used. In some cases, a branch with lots of twigs and small growth is the best choice as the plant will grow under and over the branches.  In in other instances the small twigs might appear messy and a visual distraction.  When selecting your sticks, it’s important to take into account your garden aesthetic – are you going for the scrambling abundance of a country garden, or the formal structure of a classic retreat? Sarah Raven, a well-known British gardener has taken things a step further and made an effort to use only native wood when creating plant supports for her vegetable gardens.

In the ice-storm clean up, I collected a few branches for use as supports. My sweet pea seedlings are ready to plant outside, they’ll be perfect growing up and around the broken branch of a very special cornus Kousa, a sad loss from the storm. The long stem on the bottom is cut off at a sharp angle to be pushed into the soft spring soil as deep as possible.  The spread of the small twigs and branches will be close to the ground within easy reach of the seedlings planted around the base where they will quickly grow up and through the twigs and branches. Clematis would also do well on this structure and it’s likely strong enough to withstand several seasons. The popular annual mandevilla vine is another good choice as a climber. All add vertical interest to garden design.

My scrambling cotoneaster became too leggy and suffered a lot this winter. It’s now had a hard prune and I am using the cut offs to create small branch cages around some perennials. Yarrow, nepeta, tradescantia, and phlox are good candidates for this simple approach. Four or more long branches, each about 3’ long and with a similar diameter were chosen.  The new spring growth from the cutoffs will soon turn brown so I snipped off the new

growth and twigs, then pushed the thick end of each branch into the soil about 6” from its base, repeating this at the other three corners, to create four points of a box around the plant. The upright ends of the branches are then bent into hoops towards the opposite corner and wound around one another to create a hoop. More support is provided at the front where the plant flops towards the sun. I’ve made the hoop about 2/3 the final height of the plant and should be able to increase the height a bit by untwisting the ends a bit, if necessary.  At the end of the season, I’ll leave the hoops in place if they are sturdy enough for another season or add them to the compost pile.

My technique is very much that of a beginner; I expect I’ll refine things with more practice. Even still, the natural wood hoops are more appealing than  a plastic pole with string around it. In formal gardens in the UK, I have seen cages of plant supports that are works of art in themselves. It all takes time and patience.

References

Sarah Raven, Using Native Wood Structures (Retrieved May 7, 2025)

Types of Woodland Management, (Retrieved May 7, 2025)

Longfield Gardens, DIY Plant Supports, (Retrieved May 9, 2025)

Gardens Illustrated, How to Make your Own Plant Supports and Protection That Are Easy, Cheap and Full of Charm, (Retrieved May 8, 2025)