All posts by peterboroughmastergardeners

Plant Therapy:  The Dirt on Why Gardening Makes us Feel Good

By Amanda McIlhone, Master Gardener in Training

“To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow”.  Audrey Hepburn

Gardening has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. When I retired from social work in 2019, I made the decision to spend my time focusing on things that truly made me happy. While my list was lengthy, gardening without doubt hovered very close to the top.

Currently, I am a Master Gardener in Training, and this is my very first post for this blog. As I was deciding on a subject to write about, it occurred to me that while all of us enjoy different aspects of gardening, we share a similar outcome: we garden because it makes us feel good. So let’s spend a few moments discussing what research says about why gardening—even in small amounts—is good for us.

Given that this topic is vast and my word count is limited, I am going to break our discussion into two parts. This article will focus on a few of the mental health benefits gardening provides. In my next article, coming this June, I will focus on the physical benefits of gardening. Let’s get started!

Gardening Benefits for Our Mental Health

  • Being around nature lowers cortisol, our body’s primary stress hormone.
  • Soil contains beneficial microbes that help stimulate “feel-good” chemicals in the brain. When our bodies come into contact with these microbes—through our skin or lungs—chemicals such as serotonin, dopamine, and endorphins are triggered. All of these help regulate mood.
  • Exposure to natural light boosts vitamin D, which also plays a role in mood regulation and overall health.
  • Successfully growing plants—even small wins—creates feelings of satisfaction and accomplishment. 
  • Problem-solving in the garden (soil issues, pests, timing) strengthens confidence and resilience while helping keep our brains stay active and engaged.
  • Gardening encourages creativity without pressure or judgment. Creativity itself also helps trigger the “feel-good” chemicals mentioned above.
  • Repetitive gardening tasks, such as weeding, pruning, or even logging plant progress, promote mindfulness by helping us stay present rather than focused on worries or fears.
  • Gardening promotes community in many forms—and community decreases isolation while improving connection.

The practice of gardening compels us to slow down and focus on the task at hand. It requires thoughtful planning, encourages creativity, and rewards us with beauty and bounty for our efforts. In a world that loudly demands we hurry, gardening asks us to be patient, reminding us that nature operates on its own timing and schedule

Slowing our pace in a busy world is crucial to our well-being. For me, one of the best parts of working toward becoming a Master Gardener is knowing that I am part of something bigger than simply growing plants. While the role of a Master Gardener typically focuses on public education and environmental stewardship, it also provides us with an opportunity to help improve people’s lives. For me, this is the perfect way to do something for myself while simultaneously helping others. Does it get any better than that?

Happy Gardening!

Links:

https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/blog/think-act-be/201906/10-mental-health-benefits-of-gardening

https://vancouversun.com/homes/gardening/dig-in-how-gardening-can-enhance-mood-brain-function

https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/wellbeing-articles/gardening-for-mental-health-9761

https://resources.telushealth.com/en-ca/6-health-benefits-of-gardening

You Don’t Need a Cut Flower Garden….

Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

Having fresh cut flowers in your home is something that many gardeners enjoy. They do not however, want the extra work of a dedicated cut flower garden. There is a growing trend towards incorporating cut flower varieties (annuals for the most part) as a block of colour in one’s ornamental garden. Even small numbers of plants can provide an abundance of blooms to enjoy. Most of us have “holes” in our gardens. These blank spots develop for any number of reasons; perhaps some of our other plantings have not reached their mature size; the space is present early in the season and will later be filled in by slower growing species; plants that did not overwinter. Whatever the reason, cut flower varieties can fill the gap providing blooms, texture and colour. The list of potential varieties is endless (consult a good seed resource to see). This blog will attempt to cover a few of the most favorite.

Orlya (Orlya grandiflora)

One of the prettiest, most delicate fillers for late spring and early summer, these dainty bloomers are smothered in a mass of lacy white umbrels. As the flowers fade, the plant forms interesting star shaped seed heads. This plant is a workhorse, the more it is cut, the more it blooms.

I use this plant as an early spring space filler. It is attractive both in the garden as well as the vase. If you permit some go to seed, it self sows and volunteer plants will appear early the following spring that can be grown in place or moved to where you need them.

Amaranthus (A. cruentus and A. caudatus)

Tall and dramatic, coming in many colours and spike types, this plant is remarkably easy to grow. Not surprising as it is a member of the pigweed family!!! There are varieties that grow long colourful tassels (trailing) and varieties that have more upright forms (spike). The tassels/spikes have a velvety texture. Colours can be light brown, green, burgundy and there are even a few mixes. These are warm season annuals that can be started inside 5 weeks before planting out around the same time your dahlias go into the ground.

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Cosmos is one of the most rewarding and easiest cut and come flowers to grow. It has daisy-like blossoms in single or double forms. It is a relatively large plant (36-48″ high) and can be direct sown or started indoors 4 weeks before planting out. This is another warm seasonal annual so take care to plant out well after all threat of frost is past. Cosmos should be pinched (removal of growing tip above third set of true leaves) in order to create a bushier, more floriferous plant.

Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa atropurpurea)

A delightful flower with a horrible name. This is another annual that is equally attractive left in the garden or cut for the vase. A cut and come again plant with an abundance of bloom and a lengthy bloom season. The plant is about 2 ft-3 ft. in height. These flowers last for a very long time in the vase when harvested at the correct stage. Many colours are available. These are cool season annuals that can be started indoors 6 weeks before planting out.

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Everyone’s summertime favorite! Zinnias are a warm seasonal annual that come in many colours and forms. A trend today is towards pastel, ombre effects or green varieties. The big and bright ones are still very popular. The flower itself can be single or double and the plant is quite heat tolerant (a plus in our changing climate). Zinnias are another cut and come again flower with a long vase life. Or if you prefer, an oasis of colour in your late summer garden to which the bees and butterflies come for nectar. Zinnia can be direct sown into the garden or started indoors 4 weeks before planting out.

Spend a little time perusing the seed company sites and try it out.

Resources

https://www.johnnyseeds.com/flowers/

https://www.damseeds.com/pages/flowers

iNaturalist — a tool to help you garden more ecologically

By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

Are you curious about the birds, insects, and other wildlife visiting your garden? iNaturalist (free iOS/Android app) lets you photograph organisms, get AI suggestions on identification, and submit observations that expert naturalists can verify and researchers can use. Knowing which organisms are using your garden both gives you a greater appreciation of its contribution to the local ecology and can help you support visiting wildlife’s needs. A few examples of how you can use iNaturalist follow.

  • You can easily generate a summary of observations in your garden in iNaturalist–in my case 68 species of butterflies and moths in my garden north of Peterborough since 2021.
This is just a partial summary of the species of butterflies and moths observed in my garden. Custom summaries can easily be generated in iNaturalist–no need to keep your own list!
  • Two summers ago I found caterpillars eating my Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus). iNaturalist identified them as Snowberry Clearwing Moth (Hemaris diffinis). After pupating, they overwinter in leaf litter — so leaving leaves under trees and shrubs can protect its pupae and that of many other butterflies and moths.
  • You can use iNaturalist to learn which species use your garden and then plant their host plants (required to feed its caterpillars). In 2024 I recorded a rare Spicebush Swallowtail (Papilio troilus) visiting Bee Balm (Monarda didyma). Its hosts are Sassafras and Spicebush — plants of the Carolinian Forest ecoregion. Researchers using citizen science records over an 18-year period have already documented North American butterfly range changes towards cooler and wetter locations with climate warming (da Silva and Diamond 2024). The next spring, I planted 12 seedlings of Spicebush. Although planting native species from further south of your location is generally not recommended, small experiments can be informative.

I submitted the above 2 photos to iNaturalist. My observation was reviewed by one of Ontario’s foremost butterfly experts, Rick Cavasin, who verified it was actually a Spicebush Swallowtail. It is one of only a few observations to date of this butterfly in central Ontario.

  • You could also use iNaturalist to identify a species you want to attract to your garden. I recently heard about a Brooklyn Bridge Park (New York City) gardener’s success in attracting the pollen specialist Spring Beauty Mining Bee (Andrena erigeniae) by planting hundreds of its host plant, Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica), over several years. Twenty-five percent of eastern North America’s 770 native bumble bee species are pollen specialists that can only raise their larvae on pollen from either a group of closely-related plant families, a single genus, or, even just a single species (Fowler & Droege 2020).
Eastern Spring Beauty (above) and Carolina Spring Beauty (Claytonia caroliniana) bloom in early spring in northeastern North American woodlands. The pollen specialist, Spring Beauty Mining Bee can only raise its larvae on their pollen.
  • I am winter sowing Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) to support spring pollinators and to try attracting the Cranesbill Miner (Andrena distans) another pollen specialist, but this may be challenging because there are no reports of this species north of Peterborough (see map below). The lack of records could be due to fewer iNaturalist observers in this location and gardeners’ casual contributions could provide a more complete picture of biodiversity from their gardens.
Observations of Cranesbill Miner (Andrena distans) on iNaturalist as of February 18, 2026.

Getting Started with iNaturalist

I hope you are inspired to use this tool. You can download either the iOS (for an iPhone) or android version of iNaturalist from the App Store. This quick video shows you how to use iNaturalist while this one provides more details and shows how you can use data in iNaturalist to learn which species have been observed in your local area.

To Learn more about Ecological Gardening watch this TED Talk by Rebecca McMackin which has more than 450,000 views. 

If you like butterflies, you may find this pocket guide to Ontario’s butterflies and moths by Rick Cavasin helpful. 

Research Cited

da Silva, C. R. B., & Diamond, S. E. (2024). Local climate change velocities and evolutionary history explain multidirectional range shifts in a North American butterfly assemblage. Journal of Animal Ecology, 00, 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1111/1365-2656.14132

Fowler, J. and S. Droegge. 2020. Pollen Specialist Bees of the Eastern United States. https://jarrodfowler.com/specialist_bees.html

Related

Hosting butterflies

The Kiss Principle–Winter Sowing 101

Singapore — Garden City

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

We visited Singapore in 2025, using it as our first stopover on a tour of SE Asia. Singapore was described as the ‘Switzerland of Asia’, an easy spot to get over jet lag, acclimatize, and ease into the pace.  I’d seen pictures, heard of The Gardens by the Bay, but to me it looked like a huge soulless city that had shopping and commerce at the top of the list. My expectations weren’t very high; I hoped to be sleeping for a few days, perhaps getting a taste of some interesting food, at best tracking down a Singapore Sling.

I was wrong: Singapore is a gardener’s paradise, there is greenery and nature everywhere, all of it connected; it’s landscaped yet natural, with green roofs, vertical gardening, containers and planters, small and large areas of grass, tree lined boulevards, paths and parks – wherever the eye falls there is greenery and nature.  The airport itself is filled with plant material; the drive from the airport into the city centre is lined with magnificent trees and flowers, flower baskets hang from the sides of bridges and it never stops. Freshly cut flowers, uniquely designed floral arrangements and containers adorn hotels and restaurants. It’s a marvel to walk anywhere, even through the business district where every angle has incorporated greenery and plant life. It’s awesome, in the true sense of the word, all the more remarkable because it’s a huge, busy city with massive skyscrapers, complex road systems, and modern amenities.

None of this happened by chance. In the 1960’s, the first PM of Singapore undertook an ambitious plan to develop Singapore into a Garden City.  Fast forward several decades, the dream has become a reality, Singapore is known as a City in a Garden and a City in Nature.

We spent two full days in the Singapore Botanic Garden and could have spent a week there. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, free, a blend of history, research, education, relaxation, calmness and pure pleasure for the eyes and senses. As a botanic garden, there’s informative signage, interesting heritage trees, a beautiful pond, sculptures, museum and gallery, all presented with little to no commercial promotion or sponsorship. The National Orchid Garden (with a small admission fee) presents orchids  (there’s an important orchid breeding program), bromeliads, gingers, rhododendrons, magnolias, and much more, all planted to simulate the ascent through a tropical montane forest.  The original glass house has been upgraded with complex modern cooling and misting engineering to maintain a 1,000 metre altitude tropical montane environment at 24 – 26C.

Singapore Botanic Gardens
Singapore Botanic Garden

Gardens By the Bay is a tourist icon in Singapore. Certainly more commercial than the Botanic Gardens, it’s important to note that gardens and nature are at the core of the attraction. And the concept behind the Gardens is sustainability: in the glass house, a special coating on the glass minimizes solar heat gain while providing optimal light for plants, the roof has a sensor-operated retractable sail to provide shade, and a displacement cooling system maintains cool air at lower levels and vents warm air out a high levels. Outside, the lakes act as filtration systems, the supertrees harvest solar energy or act as air exhaust.

Gardens by the Bay
The seven ton floating baby boy, Gardens by the Bay. In addition to the technology and the sheer size and splendour, it is whimsical, creative and surprising.

 The Supertree Grove is a vertical garden with nighttime light and sound shows, the Flower Dome is the largest glass greenhouse in the world, and nestled quietly between is Kingfisher Grove, freshwater wetlands developed to allow ecosystems to recover and wildlife to reconnect despite the development. It’s filled with mangroves to act as carbon sinks and surprisingly, otters, which are everywhere.

Additional References:

Singapore Botanic Gardens: https://www.nparks.gov.sg/SBG

Gardens By the Bay: https://www.bbc.com/storyworks/travel/garden-of-wonders/gardens-by-the-bay

Singapore, Biodiversity: https://www.cbd.int/doc/meetings/city/subws-2014-01/other/subws-2014-01-presentation-singapore-en.pdf

Seed Snails – A Good Way to Start Seeds?

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

It’s wintertime – the snow is high, the temperatures are low, and I’ve already completed my winter sowing. So what’s a gardener to do?

Other than catching up on my garden reading, I like to experiment with new things, and one thing I’ve been seeing for a couple of years now are “seed snails” or snail rolls – a clever, coiled method of starting seeds in tight spaces. I’m going to try it this week, so I did a little research.

So, what is a garden/seed “snail”?

A garden snail is a roll of material lined with seed starter mix, then coiled so it looks like a snail shell. Seeds are sown into the exposed spiral of soil, where they sprout and grow until you unroll and transplant them.

Instead of dozens of trays, you stand the snails upright in a container, which makes this method very space efficient. It’s become popular with gardeners who want to start lots of plants indoors before the last frost and who have limited space.

Sprouting seed snail (source: North Shore Gardening Life)

Seed snails concentrate many seedlings in one compact, easy-to-move bundle. So, you can tuck them under grow lights, on a bright windowsill, or use them in winter-sowing containers outdoors.

The continuous column of soil encourages deep, downward root growth instead of circling in a small cell. When transplant time comes, you simply unroll the snail, tease the seedlings apart, and set them into pots or the garden once the risk of frost has passed.

How to make your own garden snails

The basics – take a strip of plastic or bubble wrap, wax paper (or other suitable material) about 15–60 cm long and 10–15 cm high, quality seed-starting mix, elastic or tape, a tray, and labels. Spread moist seed starting mix along the strip, about 1–2 cm thick, leaving a bare section at one end so it will roll easily.

Roll it up gently into a spiral, secure it, then stand it on end in a tray. Firm the soil from the top and plant your seeds into the visible spirals at the recommended depth, misting lightly and covering with plastic to hold humidity until they germinate.

Seed Snails ready to go! (source: North Shore Gardening Life)

There are many sites on the internet to learn more about the process (some good, some not so good), so I’ve put two good Canadian ones below that really helped me. There are definitely some pros and cons to this method.

If you have used this technique yourself, please comment and let us know what you think?

Start Your Seeds in a Snail Roll! North Shore Gardening Life (Nova Scotia) Super helpful in visualizing the process.

Snail Roll THE New Way To Start Seeds Gardening in Canada – Gardening in Canada (Ashley) Science-based video (10 min) on the method, pros/cons, what soil etc.  

I’m going to try some veggies, herbs, annuals (sweet peas), and native plants, all using different options, and I’ll report back on my experiments in a later blog.

Seed placement – for larger seeds push them down into the soil (source: North Shore Gardening Life)

Common Mistakes with the Seed Snail Method

I thought I’d list a few of the most common seed snail pitfalls I discovered so that hopefully you (and I) can avoid them.

1. Rolling or sowing the wrong way

Sowing seeds before rolling often leads to seeds shifting, spilling, or ending up too shallow or too deep in the spiral. A more reliable approach is to roll the snail first, then plant seeds from the top where you can control depth.

2. Planting too many kinds of seeds in one snail

Mixing different varieties or species in a single snail makes it hard to tell which seedling is which, especially when some don’t germinate. Use only one crop (and ideally one variety) per snail, making shorter rolls if you need fewer plants.

3. Overwatering and poor moisture balance

It’s easy to overwater snails, especially early on, causing poor germination and weak seedlings. Snails also dry out quickly because they contain little soil, so you need careful, even watering over the entire spiral rather than just one side or one edge.

4. Too little soil and wrong mix

Very thin snails or mixes with lots of perlite hold little water, so roots dry quickly and capillary action from the tray is limited. A slightly thicker layer of seed-starting mix with good water-holding but not heavy or compacted works better for this method.

5. Skipping labels and timing info

Label your snail with variety and sowing date. Knowing when you sowed helps you decide whether to wait longer or resow.

6. Letting seedlings stay in the snail too long

Because each snail holds so little soil, seedlings can become root-bound and stressed if not transplanted or potted up promptly. Unroll/pot on once seedlings have a couple of true leaves, rather than waiting until they are tall and leggy.

7. Covering or enclosing without checking

Covering snails with plastic for humidity is helpful but use clear coverings you can monitor and keep them on just long enough to maintain moisture until germination is underway.

Plant Myth Busters: Houseplant Watering Edition

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

Information about houseplant care is everywhere — online articles, social media, blogs, friends, and self-proclaimed plant experts. It’s easier than ever to find quick tips and tricks, whether it’s a two-minute TikTok or a viral Pinterest post promising the “secret” to healthier plants. But with so many voices out there, a lot of the information being shared is inaccurate or misleading. So what advice actually helps your plants and what might be doing more harm than good? Here are a few examples of care tips to avoid, and why.

Watering On a Schedule

When looking at plant care guides online, you will sometimes see “water once a week” or “water every 7 to 10 days” under watering directions. The problem is, plants don’t adhere to a schedule when it comes to water. Variables like soil, light and humidity can affect the amount of water required for a plant to thrive. In winter months when light is in short supply and photosynthesis slows, plants will naturally use less water than in summer months. It’s better to check the moisture levels in your soil to determine whether it’s time to water.
Read more here:
https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/how-to-water-indoor-plants

Banana in Your Watering Can

Place a banana in your watering can and your plants will love it! Here’s the problem – plants require specific minerals and nutrients to survive. A rotting banana peel in your watering can is not feeding your plants, it’s providing an anaerobic environment that promotes bacterial growth and can attract pests. Any nutrients that a banana has to offer need to be broken down into usable forms that your plant can absorb. That goes for coffee grounds and egg shells too. If you can’t compost those materials before use, you’re better off with a balanced fertilizer designed for houseplants.
Read more here:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/banana-peel-water-for-plants

Bottom Watering is Best

I’ve seen this trend a lot recently on TikTok, and it isn’t a bad method of watering if you include a caveat: you need to periodically flush salts that build up in your soil. The benefits of bottom watering include deterring fungus gnats and reaching the whole root system, but if you never top water and let your soil drain, you’re allowing harmful salts to build up over time. It’s ok to bottom water, but it shouldn’t be your only method.
Read more here:
https://holubgreenhouses.com/bottom-watering-vs-top-watering-which-method-is-best/

Misting Increases Humidity

I hate to break it to you, but misting your plants does not increase ambient humidity. When you mist, humidity surrounding the leaves may increase for a minute or two, but not enough to have an impact on your plant. Moisture sitting directly on your plant’s leaves can also increase the risk of fungal issues. If you want to raise humidity, use a humidifier. If you don’t have a humidifier, group your plants together. Plants release moisture when transpiring, and grouping your plants can create a micro climate with increased humidity.
Read more here:
https://www.gardensillustrated.com/plants/house-plants/misting-house-plants-necessary

With so much plant advice floating around, it’s easy to assume that popular means correct. The truth is, plants don’t care what’s trending, they care about light, water, nutrients, and environment. Learning the science behind plant care helps you filter out myths and make choices that actually support plant health. Keep asking questions, stay curious, and don’t be afraid to unlearn what you’ve heard. Have YOU ever followed a plant tip that turned out to be more myth than magic?

Moss on Your Trees: Does it Actually Point North?

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

January is a very challenging time for garden writers. Gardens are pretty empty, the flowers are gone, and the beds are frozen; hopefully everything is resting under a deep pile of insulating snow. Garden topics are hard to come by! This one jumped out at me on a recent snowshoeing trek north of Gannon’s Narrows this week with my friend Ange.

On this trip, I took a close look at the north side of many of the trees. I confirmed that not everything in nature is resting. I saw a lot of soft green patches on the bark. That’s moss.

Image by Annette Meyer from Pixabay

Moss is one of the oldest plants on earth. It’s classified as Bryophyta (bryophytes) in the plant kingdom along with its cousins the liverworts. It doesn’t have roots. It doesn’t flower. It survives by taking in moisture from rain, fog, and snow. Even in cold weather, moss can stay green. Moss also supports tiny life. Small insects and microorganisms live in it.

Many gardeners worry that moss on trees is a problem. It isn’t. Moss does not steal food or water from the tree. It does not damage the bark. Moss simply uses the tree as a place to sit.

Interesting fact: In the southern hemisphere, moss is more likely to grow on the south side of trees. Here’s why, in simple terms:

  • Moss prefers shade, moisture, and cooler conditions.
  • In the northern hemisphere, the north side of trees gets less direct sunlight, so it stays damper and cooler.
  • In the southern hemisphere, the sun is mostly to the north, which means the south side of trees is shadier and often more moist.

So the pattern flips across the equator. Road trip to confirm, anyone?

That said, moss is not a reliable compass. It can grow on any side of a tree if conditions are right. Factors like nearby buildings or fences, dense canopy cover, local humidity, or prevailing winds will all influence where the moss will grow or not grow.

In conclusion, moss isn’t a threat, and it is not always trying to point us north; it’s simply growing where the conditions are right.

Resources:

Kew: 7 Interesting Things about Moss

Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute: Bryophytes, Tiny Plants in a Big Changing World

NatureSpot: Wildlife and Wild Places/Mosses

Image by Andrii K from Pixabay

Snow Laughing Matter: Why Winter’s White Blanket Deserves Respect

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

Snow after Christmas has a public relations problem. It blocks driveways and arrives just in time for the morning commute. But ecologically speaking, snow is a quiet hero; less frozen nuisance, more life-support system.

Freshly fallen snow is light and fluffy, packed with tiny air pockets that make it an excellent insulator. This airy layer acts like a thermal blanket, keeping soil temperatures relatively stable even when the air above plummets. Beneath it, plants are spared damaging freeze–thaw cycles, roots avoid frost heave, and soil microbes continue their slow, essential work (Pauli et al., 2021; Saccone et al., 2013).

Image by Jürgen from Pixabay

As snow ages, it settles and compresses into denser layers. Below these compressed layers is a gap between the snow and soil, the subnivean zone—a hidden world of tunnels for voles, mice, shrews, and overwintering insects. Stable snow layers mean stable winter habitat for these creatures which directly influences survival migrating birds and awakening mammals (Pauli et al., 2021).

The subnivean zone — Photo Credit:  AI generated Image 

Snow also plays the long game. Acting like a frozen reservoir, it stores winter precipitation and releases it slowly during melt. This gradual release recharges groundwater, sustains streams, and prevents spring flooding. Crucially, snowmelt fills ephemeral pools—temporary wetlands that appear just long enough for frogs, salamanders, and invertebrates to breed before drying out. These pools are biodiversity hotspots, and many amphibians depend on them entirely for reproduction (Brooks, 2004).

Climate change, however, is rewriting snow’s script. Warmer winters mean thinner, more variable snowpacks, frequent mid-winter melts, and icy crusts instead of fluffy insulation. These unstable layers expose soil and roots to harsh temperature swings, collapse subnivean habitats, and increase winter mortality for small mammals and plants alike (Saccone et al., 2013; Pauli et al., 2021). Reduced snowpack also means less spring meltwater, shrinking ephemeral pools and compressing breeding windows for amphibians.

In short, inconsistent snow is not just inconvenient; it’s ecologically disruptive. When snow comes late, melts early, or freezes into ice instead of insulating layers, entire food webs feel the impact. And we are feeling it this year.  

The next time snowflakes fall, take a moment. That squeaky, shovelled nuisance is buffering ecosystems, storing water, protecting roots, and quietly setting the stage for spring. Snow may be cold, but for nature, it’s doing some very warm-hearted work.

References 

Brooks, R. T. (2004). Weather-related effects on woodland vernal pool hydrology and hydroperiod. Wetlands, 24(1), 104–114. https://doi.org/10.1672/0277-5212(2004)024[0104:WREOWV]2.0.CO;2

Pauli, J. N., Zuckerberg, B., Whiteman, J. P., & Porter, W. (2021). The subnivium: A deteriorating seasonal refugium. BioScience, 71(8), 820–831. https://academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/71/8/820/6213245

Saccone, P., Morin, S., Baptist, F., et al. (2013). The effects of snowpack properties and soil frost on plant and microbial communities. Ecology, 94(7), 1617–1630. https://esajournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1890/12-1327.1

Photo Credit:  AI generated Image 

Image by joelk51 from Pixabay

Ten Things I Didn’t Get Done In Time

by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

In December, 2025, winter came in early with freezing temperatures and lots of snow plus a little freezing rain for good measure. I wasn’t prepared and some garden jobs slipped through the cracks. A few can still be done but alas it is too late for some of them.

Mother Nature has outwitted me again!

  1. I like to do a last weed through my perennial bed. Spring is always so busy and I find that a good fall weed keeps the weeds down and it is not such an arduous job in the spring.
  2. I like to spread compost on my beds in late fall. The worms do a great job of mixing it into the soil and it makes more room in the compost bins.
  3. Several bulbs didn’t get replanted after they were dug up when I was redoing the perennial beds. I was listening to Paul Zammitt on CBC and he suggested potting up these bulbs in containers with fresh potting soil. Cover these pots and put  in a cold, frost free area and bring them into the light in late winter/early spring. When I first moved to the Peterborough area, I had no garden to speak of, so I decided to pot up several containers of bulbs but failed to cover them. The mice and chipmunks thought that had won the lottery and ate every single bulb! Be warned! It is a job that I can still get done.
  4. My seeds need sorting out – what is still viable and what should be thrown or given to the birds. I still have time to do this.
  5. I like to dismantle my outdoor evergreen decorations and place them over tender plants. If this snow ever goes down, I could still do this.
  6. I have 2 large bags of leaves all ready in the garage ready to protect new shrubs and plants. For now, I just have to hope that the deep snow is doing the job.
  7. If I could get into my shed, I could sort out all the pots and recycle many of the smaller ones. Alas, the shed is snowed in.
  8. Every fall I clean all my garden tools, sandpapering any rust before oiling the blades and rubbing linseed oil into the wooden handles. Another job that I can still do. I did take out the battery from my lawn tractor and it is stored in my basement.
  9. I should have checked and repaired some of my trellis before growth starts in the spring.
  10. I have had several amaryllis that I have had for several years. They spend the summer outdoors and come inside to my basement before the last frost. I did do this but forgot to put a couple of them under lights in time to bloom for Christmas. Oh well I will have lots of colour for Easter.

Now that the new year is here, I have no excuse for not doing as many of these jobs as possible.

Meanwhile, I am enjoying all the birds that come to my feeders. I even have a pileated wood pecker that pecks away at my suet feeder. Happy New Year!

Cyclamens for Winter Blooms

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

I always enjoy flowers in the house at this time of year and Cyclamens (Primula family) are a lovely and available plant option to satisfy that desire. Readily available for the holiday season these plants may continue to bloom for weeks afterwards.

The florist plant that is sold during the winter is a hybrid of Cyclamen persicum originating in southern Europe, and the Mediterranean to Iran. In its native range it comes into bloom in the cooler temperatures of autumn going dormant in the summer.

Cyclamen is a lovely plant that you may find in sizes ranging from 15 to 30 cm. Its heart shaped leaves may be dark green or mottled white or silver and bears flowers of white, pink, mauves or reds. Flowers may be double, bicoloured or frilly. The flowers have five petals that reflex back looking somewhat like badminton birdies. Very charming!

As an indoor plant it does prefer a cooler environment ranging from 15 to 18C and although I have read and experienced the fact that today’s hybrids will tolerate warmer temperatures, a cool windowsill for example would be ideal. Cooler temps will help prolong blooming time.

Cyclamen like a brightly lit spot and our winter sun is tolerated. Keep the soil moist by bottom watering to avoid getting water in the crown as that may cause rot. Fertilize with diluted houseplant fertilizer every 2 weeks. Deadheading will encourage continuous blooming. To deadhead twist the stem and pull sharply to remove it from the crown.

Cyclamen will naturally stop blooming in late spring and go into dormancy for 2 to 3 months. Dormancy means that the leaves will fade and drop off. If you want to save the tuber you can plant it outside for the summer in a shady spot or store it in vermiculite for 6 to 12 weeks. Repot your stored tuber with the upper half of the tuber above the planting medium. Water as the tuber starts forming new leaves and fertilize until flower heads form.

Typically, cyclamen is treated as a short-lived plant if one doesn’t have the right light conditions to get it to rebloom. The photo below with the bicoloured petals was purchased in December 2024.

Source: Lois Scott

After blooming it sat dormant in a pot, was not watered and then started sprouting in late 2025. Watering was resumed and it has been blooming since then.

Second year cyclamen can be a bit leggy with perhaps fewer blooms but can still provide a colourful accent which is always appreciated at this time of year!

Additional Resources

Cyclamen

What is the proper care of the cyclamen?