Seeds, Vegetable Gardening, winter

Microgreens & Sprouts- Easy, Quick, Rewarding, Delicious, Fun

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By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

Last year I grew salad greens and herbs in my basement to supplement our supply of fresh food throughout the winter while I was missing my veggie garden. It was a rewarding (and tasty) experience but at the end of the season I felt I didn’t get enough food to be worth the time and effort required to grow those greens inside my house (on a budget, with limited space, and no sunny windows available).

Growing indoor greens, early last winter

This year I tried something different. I purchased some sprouting seeds and am trying to supplement my greens in smaller quantities but with a more consistent output and lots of bang for my buck in terms of nutrition. I am pleasantly surprised by how easy the process is and how little of my brain space (and time) it is requiring so far.

What are Sprouts & Microgreens?

Sprouts – A germinated seed, about 3-5 days old, with a long pale root and the beginnings of their first leaves (cotyledons) emerging. It is a baby plant that has not started photosynthesizing yet and is only utilizing the energy stored in the seed for its growth so far. You eat the entire thing, including the seed and root. It is mild in taste with a high water content but the nutrients from the seed have been unlocked.

Radish sprouts

Microgreens – A sprouted seed, about 7-14 days old, with cotyledons and its first true leaves emerging. The leaves have turned green, the plant is photosynthesizing and beginning to draw nutrients from its growing medium. When ready, you cut them at the bottom of the stem and eat the top. It has a high nutritional density and begins to develop its own unique flavour at this point. Allowing the plant to grow past this stage will turn it into a ‘baby green’ if space, moisture and nutrition allow.

Sunflower microgreens, freshly harvested

How do you grow them?

Here are some supplies you can use to get started:

You can germinate a seed into sprouts in any container that can hold moisture and provide drainage to the seeds. A mason jar or ‘sprouter’ can be used.

Sprouting lids – a mason-jar compatible lid that allows for easy addition and drainage of water when inverted and minimal loss of seeds. You could also use fabric, cheesecloth or some type of mesh.

Jar & Sprouting Lid.

Sprouting trays – Perforated trays with a dish underneath and a lid to hold in moisture. These trays can be used with the seeds directly in them for sprouts or with a small layer of soil or growing medium for microgreens. You could also use a recycled berry container with a tray or plate underneath.

Left: Tray for microgreens or sprouts
Right: Growing microgreens in a berry container

Seeds – There is a wide variety available. Alfalfa, sunflowers, brassicas, peas and beans are some of the most common. Radish, beets, and herbs can also be used. You could also buy regular seed packets but sprouting seeds are sold with more in each bag, more suitable for sprouting quantities.

Sprouting seed packets

Most sprouting seed packets will include simple instructions. They usually direct you to cover the seeds with water and soak them (about 1-2 tbsp per litre mason jar) for 6-12 hours, then drain them and proceed to rinse and drain them twice per day until the sprouts are ready (3-5 days).

Left: Getting started with simple directions on the packet.
Right: Draining the water from the seeds after they have been soaked. The jar will stay inverted like this until the next time I need to rinse and drain the seeds. 

Alfalfa sprouts, ready to eat (approx. day 5). 1 tbsp of seeds filled the 1L jar with sprouts by the time they were ready. In this picture, I have already eaten some.

Microgreens are grown more like baby plants grown in a tray with soil or other growing medium underneath. The seeds are usually soaked in water first, then spread on top of a thin layer of soil and sprayed with water. They are then covered to keep it dark and moist around the seeds until they germinate, uncovered and then ideally bottom watered as needed until they are ready (7-14 days). A grow light or sunny window is required once they germinate.

Microgreens under grow light. In this case I am just sprouting them on a piece of unbleached paper, to keep it simple, tidy and easy to remove and compost once I’m done eating from it. You can also use soil or other growing mediums like coconut coir, cotton or hemp mats, etc. The more nutrients in the medium, the further you can mature your greens.
Tray of microgreens, almost ready.

Here are some instructional resources:

https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home
https://sprouting.com/how-to-grow-sprouts/
https://www.westcoastseeds.com/blogs/wcs-academy/grow-microgreens?srsltid=AfmBOooMV2efSOJH4N603pvHsixfsGDMq6bZCa50ms-Y83RnsKnCGQfu

Why grow sprouts or microgreens?

NUTRITION – They are known to be an excellent source of many vitamins and minerals but are also beginning to be known for their ability to improve digestion and gut health (Wright, 2022). Not only that, but they are also high in phytochemicals and antioxidants, proving themselves to be able to prevent and/or improve conditions such as Type 2 diabetes, cancer, heart disease, anemia, Alzheimer’s, and macular degeneration (Cleveland Clinic, 2023).

FRESH, YEAR-ROUND – Since you don’t need a lot of space for this, it is easy to grow these year-round.

INEXPENSIVE – Jars – $1.50 ea. Sprouting Lids – $4 ea, Seeds – $4/ bag (price varies based on type of seed)

QUICK & REWARDING – The time to harvest is so quick, which makes the experience of eating them just so rewarding. They are also very versatile. You can use them on sandwiches, in salads, as a soup garnish, or however you like! I even put them on my eggs in the morning.

Sprouts with breakfast!

Here is a list of Canadian companies that sell sprouting seeds and supplies:

The Sprouting Company – Ontario – https://www.thesproutingcompany.com/
Mumm’s Sprouting Seed – Saskatchewan – https://sprouting.com/Rainbow Seeds – New Brunswick – https://www.rainbowseeds.ca/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
The Seed Company – Newfoundland – https://theseedcompany.ca/collections/all-seeds
Sprout Club – Alberta – https://www.sproutclub.ca/
West Coast Seeds – BC – https://www.westcoastseeds.com/
OM Foods – BC – https://www.omfoods.com/

ENJOY!

References:

Cleveland Clinic (July 2023). Why you should eat microgreens. Healthessentials. https://health.clevelandclinic.org/benefits-of-microgreens

 Wright,  KC. (June 2022). Tiny sprouts provide big nutrition. American Heart Association News. https://www.heart.org/en/news/2022/06/07/tiny-sprouts-provide-big-nutrition

Birds, Information, Native Plants, Shrubs & Trees, Websites

Cedar Trees: A Winter Food Source for Wildlife

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

In February of 2023, I wrote an article about cedar trees; their botanical family, the medicinal history and their use by the early pioneers of our region.

Although the article alluded to its use as a food source for critters, that wasn’t the main purpose of the article. In this blog, I’d like to expand on that initial description to provide more information on the importance of the tree to our mostly four-legged friends and planet co-habitants.

The eastern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis), common in forests and along shorelines, provides a reliable food source for many animals when other options are scarce during our harsh winters. I have a row of cedars at the back of my lot mostly for wind control but it provides other functions for local wildlife.

Deer are among the most frequent consumers of cedar during winter. When snow covers ground vegetation, deer browse on cedar foliage, which is rich in nutrients. This evergreen tree helps sustain deer populations, especially in areas with limited winter food. However, over-browsing can damage young cedar trees and affect forest regeneration.

Other animals also rely on cedar. Snowshoe hares feed on cedar bark and twigs when their preferred food sources, like shrubs, are unavailable. Porcupines chew on cedar bark for nourishment. Even small birds, such as chickadees and finches, eat the seeds found in cedar cones.

Cedar trees provide shelter. Their dense, evergreen foliage offers protection from wind and snow, creating warm habitats for birds and small mammals. This shelter can be as important as food for survival in winter.

If you own land with cedar trees, consider their value to wildlife. Protect young trees from over-browsing by using barriers or planting more cedars in areas where they are heavily used. Maintaining healthy cedar stands can support local ecosystems and provide crucial resources for animals during winter.

In addition to cedar, deer and other wild animals rely on a variety of other trees, shrubs, and woody plants for food. These sources are critical when grasses, green plants, and other ground vegetation are buried under snow. Below are some examples:

Trees Consumed by Deer

  1. Aspen and Poplar (Populus species): Deer often browse the twigs and bark of these trees, especially younger specimens.
  2. Maple (Acer species): Deer will eat twigs and buds from sugar maple and red maple trees.
  3. Birch (Betula species): Twigs and bark of birch trees can be a winter food source.
  4. Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis): Eastern hemlock is a favorite winter food, with deer browsing its soft, green needles.
  5. Willow (Salix species): Willows near wetlands provide twigs and bark for deer and other animals.
  6. Oak (Quercus species): Acorns, if not consumed in the fall, remain an important energy source for deer and squirrels during winter.

Other Trees and Shrubs for Wildlife

  1. Alder (Alnus species): Twigs and catkins are eaten by small mammals and birds.
  2. Pine (Pinus species): Seeds from pine cones are consumed by squirrels and birds, while deer sometimes nibble on needles.
  3. Dogwood (Cornus species): Red osier dogwood is a common browse species for deer and rabbits.
  4. Sumac (Rhus species): Deer eat sumac twigs and fruit clusters during the winter.
  5. Apple and Crabapple (Malus species): Wild or abandoned apple trees provide fruit, twigs, and bark for wildlife.

Conservation Tips

To support wildlife during winter, maintaining diverse tree species in forests and natural areas is crucial. Planting native shrubs and trees that produce berries or nuts can also help sustain wildlife through the cold months.

Resources

How do Deer Survive Harsh Winter Weather?

Do Cedar Trees Make Good Deer Habitat?

Northern White Cedar – An important winter food source for White-tailed Deer

5 native plants that benefit wildlife in winter

Bugs, Garden Cleanup, Insects, Websites

A Thousand Legs Beneath Your Soil

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By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

In the quiet stillness of the garden, just beneath the surface of the
soil, legions of extraordinary creatures carry out vital work. Among
them, the multi-legged centipedes and millipedes are perhaps the most misunderstood. For many gardeners, these organisms evoke unease with their segmented bodies and scurrying movements. Yet, these “creatures of a thousand legs” are ecological superheroes, each playing a unique role in the delicate balance of life in the garden.

To appreciate their significance, it’s essential to understand the
differences between these arthropods. Though often mistaken for one another, centipedes and millipedes lead entirely different lives, each defined by their distinctive anatomy, diet, and ecological niche.

Thom Luloff, MGiT, with an American Giant Millepede (Narceus americanus).

________________________________

Centipedes are the agile top predators of the soil. With their
flattened bodies and one pair of legs per segment, they cut swift,
predatory figures in the shadowy underworld. These arthropods are
merciless in their pursuit of prey, targeting garden nuisances like
aphids, grubs, and slugs. Their speed and venomous claws make them highly effective pest controllers, offering gardeners a natural,
sustainable alternative to chemical pesticides. Picture this: a
centipede darting through the mulch, its countless legs a blur as it
strikes down a slug threatening your tender seedlings. This is
nature’s pest control in action.

Millipedes, by contrast, are the humble custodians of decay. Their
rounded bodies and two pairs of legs per segment give them a slower, more deliberate gait, befitting their work as decomposers. Millipedes feast on fallen leaves, decaying wood, and other organic matter, breaking it down into nutrient-rich humus that enriches the soil. They are, quite literally, the architects of fertility, ensuring that the nutrients locked within last season’s debris return to the earth to fuel new growth.

Differences between Millipedes and Centipedes, University of Kentucky
College of Food, Agriculture and Environment

________________________________

Together, these creatures contribute to the health and vitality of
garden ecosystems. Millipedes, with their voracious appetite for
detritus, play a crucial role in nutrient cycling. They transform the
clutter of dead leaves and organic waste into forms of nitrogen and
phosphorus that plants can readily absorb, enhancing soil fertility
and structure. At the same time, centipedes ensure balance by keeping pest populations in check, preventing infestations that could
devastate your crops.

Moreover, the movement of these arthropods benefits the physical
structure of the soil. As they burrow and scurry, they aerate
compacted earth, improving water infiltration and promoting robust
root growth. Their work is quiet, unseen, and often uncelebrated, yet its impact is profound.

________________________________

But why should gardeners go out of their way to encourage centipedes and millipedes to make their homes in the soil? For one, creating a welcoming environment for these arthropods reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Their presence signals a
healthy, balanced ecosystem—one where plants thrive without excessive human intervention.

The good news is that attracting these creatures is neither
complicated nor costly. Simple actions like maintaining a layer of
leaf litter, adding compost, and avoiding chemical pesticides can make all the difference. Leaf litter and compost not only provide
millipedes with their preferred food but also offer the moist, shaded
habitat both species need to survive. Likewise, steering clear of
pesticides protects these beneficial arthropods from harm, allowing
them to flourish and perform their vital roles.

By fostering a garden that welcomes centipedes and millipedes, you’re not just supporting these fascinating creatures—you’re investing in the long-term health and sustainability of your soil.

________________________________

So, the next time you catch a glimpse of a many-legged creature
scuttling through the mulch, resist the urge to recoil (or stomp!).
Instead, pause to appreciate their role in the grand tapestry of life
beneath your soil.

________________________________

References

David, J. F. (2019). The role of millipedes in forest ecosystems: A
review. Biological Reviews, 94(3), 1385-1404.
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1111%2Fbrv.12506&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64a0cfac1b644985330c08dd0fed73ea%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638684234880126274%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=0uWKFh70nUJCFHhakG%2FwLoGeKkAFA8pOUKtxWtjwb9w%3D&reserved=0

Lavelle, P., Decaëns, T., Aubert, M., Barot, S., & Blouin, M. (2020).
Soil invertebrates and ecosystem services. European Journal of Soil
Biology, 96, 103123. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1016%2Fj.ejsobi.2020.103123&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64a0cfac1b644985330c08dd0fed73ea%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638684234880147152%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=8iMpbqfVc4fEheBopj1HR8XnaK1%2F5iSorlxHsDdDMa8%3D&reserved=0

Linden, J. F., & Oliveira, F. M. (2022). Arthropods as biological
control agents in agroecosystems: The case of centipedes. Journal of
Biological Control, 36(4), 201-209.
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1016%2Fj.jbc.2022.04.001&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64a0cfac1b644985330c08dd0fed73ea%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638684234880161698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=IllZmczP9WGDkxbl%2BOiMrtuN8s6Ryfr5ARrgutoWa38%3D&reserved=0

Advice, Garden Cleanup, Garden Design, Information

Five Great Garden Practices for the New Year

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By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

With the new year days away, resolutions for 2025 might be on your mind. Here are a few easy garden practices you might want to include in those New Year’s Resolutions.

  1. Keep a record.

Have a file, record on your computer, write in a journal, put plant tags in a zip lock bag by year. Write on your tags the year & where you planted. It is important to know which hydrangea you planted, so if you need to research how to prune or how large it should get or if you want to purchase another, you will have that information. When you keep tags or record what annuals you plant, if it is something you want to repeat, you will have the exact variety when you go shopping the next spring. There are so many varieties of so many plants.

  • Keep things clean.

Disease is often spread through the tools we use. Have a pack of wet wipes in your tool box & clean tools after each use. Sharpen tools at the end of gardening season, so they are clean & ready to go in spring.  Although you should use leaves as compost, don’t leave diseased plants in your gardens. Place them in your green garbage. Keep houseplant soil free of fallen leaves as well.

  • Keep yourself healthy.

Stretch before going into the garden to do manual work. Limit yourself to an amount of time that is good for you and your body and stop when your time is up….your garden will be there when you come back. Take your water bottle with you. Wear gloves & hat to protect yourself. Don’t work in the blazing sun…. bad for you & your plants.

  • Do your research.

Right plant in the right spot will give you more chance of success. If you plant a water loving perennial in a dry sandy spot, the plant will suffer or fail. Planting a tall annual at the front of your bed will obscure the pretty ones behind it. Use the internet, but make sure you are using reputable sites where knowledgeable gardeners are sharing good information. Look for articles written by Master Gardeners or university professors or scientists. Look for websites that end with “edu.” You can also contact Peterborough Master Gardeners online (peterboroughmastergardeners.com) to ask questions or check out what events we will be at in 2025.

  • Enjoy your gardens.

Remember, you garden because you get enjoyment from your hard work. Wander through your garden, peaking at the new sprouts coming up or the gorgeous flowers opening. Breath deep. Enjoy the birds, insects and wildlife that visit. Research shows that gardening and being in nature help our minds, bodies & souls.

Happy New Year! From Peterborough Master Gardeners

Information, Insects, winter

How do Insects Survive the Winter?

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Last April, I wrote an article entitled “How do my outdoor plants survive the winter?” Although not as popular a subject topic, a quick dip into the world of all things creepy crawly when the temperatures plummet may be of similar interest.

When winter hits our region, we head indoors, but what about insects? These creatures have incredible ways of making it through the cold winter months. So much for my favourite October joke: “What’s the best thing about October? The mosquitoes are dead.” True, but also not for long.

Some insects, like ladybugs and cluster flies, find shelter and enter a hibernation-like state called diapause. They slow their bodies down to a near standstill, using very little energy while tucked away in cracks, under leaves, or even in homes. Those sneaky lady beetles seem to be able to find a way into houses too!

Other insects, like woolly bear caterpillars, use natural antifreeze. Their bodies produce special chemicals called cryoprotectants, which prevent their cells from freezing. This allows them to survive temperatures well below zero.

Some insects, like mosquitoes, leave behind their eggs, which are tough enough to endure the cold. Come spring, these eggs hatch, and a new generation begins. Sigh. Similarly, some butterflies, like the Mourning Cloak, overwinter as adults in tree bark or woodpiles, waking up early in the spring.

For honeybees, survival is a team effort. They cluster together in their hives, shivering their bodies to create heat and keep the colony warm.

And then there are insects like crickets, which die off in the fall, leaving behind their eggs to carry on their legacy.

Winter may seem quiet, but beneath the snow, insects are surviving in remarkable ways. Whether through hibernation, antifreeze, or teamwork, our local insects prove how tough and adaptable nature can be—even in the coldest months. For some, like pollinators, that’s great news. For others, like the red lily beetle, the Japanese beetle, and aphids, we simply have to grin and bear it.

Grass, Light, Native Plants, Perennials, winter

Light in the Garden

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By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

It’s the darkest time of the year, daylight is at its lowest, and most gardening has ended for the season. That doesn’t mean, however, that there is nothing in the garden to be enjoyed. Garden design and planting choices should take into account the many months when the garden is still and inactive. It’s during this time when, despite the lack of light and active growth, the garden is revealed. It is stripped bare of colour and the exuberance of growth is set aside. With the leaves gone and many small plants succumbing to frost, the garden reveals itself openly and honestly.  It’s odd, but in the dark days of winter there is more light in the garden. Unencumbered by layers of leaves, loud colours, or scrambling growth, the garden becomes airy and lets us see its bones and form. There is a lot to consider and enjoy when the garden, no matter how big or how small, is revealed.

The low slanting light of late autumn and winter is an important piece of the beauty of the garden. Glancing out my bedroom window first thing every morning, I’m drawn to the morning light shining behind the swollen, grey buds of the magnolia tree next to the driveway. The buds are soft and fluffy, vulnerable yet so full of promise. In a nearby garden, there are a few large clumps of Karl Foerster grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) that sway and drift with the slightest breeze. Their slender stalks are a soft gentle brown, somehow able to withstand strong winds and pelting rain. Fall blooming grasses are a particular treat in fall and early winter, the slanting light is illuminated through the fluffy plumes making a beautiful statement. Hameln (Pennisetum Alopecuroides ‘Hameln’) is a favourite but there are many to choose from including some special native ones such as Side -oats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula)  and Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

Another subtle feature of winter light is the shadow effect. The gentle lengthened shadows created by tree structure, moving grasses, seed heads, or conifer form merit consideration when choosing plants and placement. They are certainly worth more than a glance on a spectacular bright winter day.

The dried flower heads of ever popular hydrangeas are a common winter garden treat especially when topped with a light dusting of early snow. Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia), a small summer flowering shrub, also retains dried flower heads through fall and winter. Other shrubs offer interest because of bark colour and texture (red twig dogwood, cornus sericea) or growth habit. Staghorn Sumac doesn’t take centre stage in the summer, but offers spectacular colour in fall.  In winter, its red fruits, antler-like branches, and graceful form make it a show-stopper.  Another shrub favourite in my fall and winter garden is Seven-Son Flower (Heptacodium miconiodes). It is an all-around wonderful, unique shrub with added appeal for its beautiful peeling bark in winter.  Other shrubs that hold particular appeal in the winter are Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)  and Corkscrew Willow (Salix babylonida).

Limelight hydrangea in the snow
Summersweet in the snow

Of course, conifers are the bones of any garden in winter. With different needle textures and lengths, and different shapes and forms, they provide obvious interest to every garden. When everything else is grey and brown, the rich textured green of a conifer stands out and when the snow comes along their interest increases. It’s important to have a variety of shapes and forms: cylindrical, mounding, conical, and weeping. In a small urban garden such as mine, I’ve found dwarf varieties and columnar species. One of my favourites is a weeping white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Pendula’), which is supported and pruned to fit a small spot.  It’s a lovely unique specimen tree with gentle movement, at certain times of the day its pleasure is doubled when the sun throws it shadow on the nearby shed. 

References

https://kawarthanow.com/2022/01/13/tips-from-peterborough-greenup-on-how-to-design-your-own-winter-garden/

Winter Gardens: Reinventing the Season by Cedric Pollet
This book features beautiful winter gardens across France and the UK

Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Native Plants, Perennials, Uncategorized

Native Grasses Provide Winter Interest and Feed the Birds

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By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

This week I’ve been enjoying watching a flock of American Tree Sparrows that have migrated south from their summer tundra breeding grounds to my garden north of Peterborough for the winter. While I have both sunflower and nyger feeders, they are feeding exclusively on the Big Bluestem and Savannah Grass seeds in my garden. Sadly, these native grasses seem to have a bad rap among gardeners which is too bad as they have many benefits for both you and local wildlife.

I have the following four commonly occurring warm season perennial native grasses in my full sun garden:

Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) is a very tall (5 – 8 ft) grass with clumps that form a dense sod but does not creep by rhizomes. It competes aggressively with shallow-rooted flowers, so it is best planted with species that form deep tap roots or spring bloomers that go dormant in the summer. In my garden it is a fall season focal point at the back of a border behind Culver’s Root (Veronicastrum virginicum) which has a central taproot as well as underground rhizomes.

In early May, Big Bluestem still hasn’t emerged, but allium foliage and some blooming tulips fill the space (left). By late June, alliums appear to float above the Big Bluestem grass (highlighted in orange) that is now 2 ft. tall (middle) and hiding the bulb foliage. By late July, Big Bluestem grass provides a green backdrop for the white flower spikes of Culver’s Root (right).

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is an excellent grass for gardens due to its shorter height (2 – 4 ft), clumping form, very showy silver-white seed heads, and bright red stems in fall.It prefers dry sandy soils.

Savannah Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)is another tall grass (5 -7 ft) for the back of the border. It tends to self-sow so the young seedlings require a little annual weeding.

Native grasses add movement and colour to the garden. Little Bluestem’s red stems are illuminated by early October morning sun (left) while the late afternoon August sun highlights the tiny golden flowers and flower stalks of Savannah Grass (right).

Sideoats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) is a hardy, short bunchgrass that spreads very slowly by means of short, stout rhizomes and doesn’t compete with other plants. Its deep fibrous roots make it useful on slopes to prevent erosion (or on the edges of slightly sloped garden beds as in my garden). Do not plant it in clay soils.

Sideoats Grama has delicate hanging flowers (left), and later seeds (right) that are held in spikes that fall gracefully to one side of the stem.

Benefits for you

As well as being stunning fall and winter focal points, the tall native grasses, Big Bluestem and Savannah Grass, make excellent privacy borders. Their very deep roots (5-6 feet or more) make them useful for erosion control on slopes. Each of these native grasses is drought tolerant. And, each creates excellent winter interest as they tend to maintain their upright form. Another bonus is that they all have low palatability to deer.

Big Bluestem (left) and Savannah Grass (right) stand tall in the author’s garden despite 12 inches of winter snow.

Benefits for wildlife

Many butterfly skipper and moth larvae feed on these native grasses and they provide critically important seeds and habitat for native birds in fall and winter.

An adult Delaware Skipper rests on a blade of Big Bluestem in the author’s garden (left). Big Bluestem is a host plant for this butterfly’s larvae. Both Little Bluestem and Sideoats Grama are host plants for Leonard’s Skipper caterpillars. The adult butterfly is seen here nectaring on marigold in the author’s garden (right)

American Tree Sparrows feeding on a buffet of Big Bluestem (left) and Savannah Grass (right) seeds in the author’s garden. It is fun to watch them “ride” the Savannah grass stems to the ground so they can more easily peck at the seeds some of which spill onto the fresh snow.

Native Grass Establishment and Maintenance

Most native plant nurseries stock these grasses and all of them are easily propagated from seed. Plant seedlings densely at 1 ft to 1.5 ft spacing to discourage weeds. Water during the first year while roots are getting established. Fertilization is not necessary. All can be easily divided, but Sideoats Grama should be teased apart, not cut with a spade.

Remnant pockets of native grasses like this one of Big Bluestem growing on the shoreline of Little Jack Lake (left) are good places to collect seeds to propagate your own plants (right). Never collect more than 10% of seeds.

Depending on how much seed the birds eat in winter, you might get a few volunteer seedlings. If you don’t want more plants, they are easily kept in check by weeding when they are small.

If weedy cool season grasses have seeded into native warm season clumps, use a propane torch in early spring to burn emerged leaf blades while warm season native grasses are still dormant. Be sure to first cut off last year’s dry stalks and have a hose nearby. Don’t do this on a windy day!

Big Bluestem, Savannah and Little Bluestem are 3 of the 4 dominant grasses found in remnant tall grass prairies and oak savannahs, of which less than 1% of their pre-European settlement extent remains in Ontario. (The other is Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) which can self sow quite a bit so might not be suitable for small gardens.) These grasses are also found on dunes, sandy shorelines, rock barrens, roadsides, and hydro corridors. Including these grasses in your garden can help support some of the wildlife that rely on this endangered ecosystem.

REFERENCES & ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Diboll, N and H. Cox. 2023. The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants. Pages 302-303, 306-307, 326-329.

Ehrlich, P. R. D.S. Dobkin and D. Wehte. 1988. The Birder’s Handbook A Field Guide to the Natural History of North American Birds, The Essential Companion to your Identification Guide. Page 584.

Johnson, L. and S. Colla. 2022. A Garden for the Rusty-Patched Bumblebee—Creating Habitat for Native Pollinators. Pages 149, 150, and 159.

Map of Native Plant Nurseries in Ontario maintained by Halton & Area Master  Gardeners

North American Native Plant Society. 2017. Seed collecting and saving.

RELATED

GARDENING FOR BIRDS THROUGH THE SEASONS

A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE NATIVE PLANTS

EXPANDING YOUR NATIVE PLANT PALETTE

WINTER FAVOURITES

Advice, Invasive, Perennials

When Ground Cover Plants Take Over

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By Carol Anderson, Master Gardener

When I recently purchased a new home, I was too preoccupied with the beautiful lake view to truly notice some of the gardening challenges that lay ahead for me. Once I began the process of itemizing what garden treasures I had, I became acutely aware of the gardening style of my predecessor … a style that included utilizing ground cover plants to “fill in” raised beds … and apparently the faster they spread, the better!!! The challenge I have ahead of me is the removal or containment of numerous ground covers that have invaded every inch of the property. In this segment I will briefly touch on the management and/or extraction of 4 different commonly used ground covers that range from just “annoying” to outright invasive.

Chameleon Plant,  Bugleweed, Yellow Archangel, Periwinkle

Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans):

Although not considered invasive, Bugleweed can become problematic if left on its own without management, as it has a tendency to spread into adjacent lawn areas. I personally like the dark burgundy-red foliage, however, on my property it has spread across an entire garden and into the lawn. Bugleweed spreads through “shallow” underground runners with new baby plants popping up at the end of the runners. As a result, it is not impossible to remove nor contain. In the spring, I will be digging up the new plants all around the edge of the garden border and installing edging below the garden surface to stop the spread into the lawn. Periodic thinning (by digging up and removing some of the parent plants in the clump) will help to keep it manageable as well.

Yellow Archangel or Golder Deadnettle (Lamium galeobdolon):

Although Lamium is a common ground cover used in many garden applications, it is invasive in Ontario. It has infested natural areas and will out-compete native groundcovers in the wild. Lamium  spreads by plant fragments, rooting along the surface on the stems (see photo below). However, it also can spread by seed which can then be carried into natural environments by birds.  For this reason, I will be completely removing it from several of the large shade gardens on the property and replacing with native species. Luckily it spreads along the surface and can be removed by mechanical means. This will be another spring project in the garden and once fully extracted, I will begin investigating other options such as anemone, wild ginger, bunchberry dogwood and ostrich fern for the heavily shaded areas of the garden.

Periwinkle (Vinca minor):

Periwinkle is a very common shade groundcover used by gardeners. It is considered to be invasive as it spreads quickly given the right climatic conditions. It poses a threat to natural biodiversity as it can out-compete other forest understory plants. However, because it spreads by rooting along the stems on the surface of the ground (stolons), it can be contained through proper management of the plant. I plan to dig up the roots and plants and cut back the excessive amount of Periwinkle in the garden, interspersing it with other shade loving plants. This will require ongoing observation and management on my part. 

Chameleon Plant (Houttuynia cordata):

Avoid, avoid, avoid. Although an attractive groundcover, chameleon plant will invade your garden and lawn very quickly and became completely unmanageable. It is a non-native that spreads by a highly dense deep underground network of roots (rhizomes)(see pics below). Even a small segment of root left behind will live and spread for years to come making eradication very difficult. This fall, I began digging around the perimeter of the patch well outside of where the plant is visible on the surface. I dug down 12 inches and was still running into dense mats of roots!!!  I then sifted through the soil to remove all plant segments and put the soil back. At this point I have just begun the process of eradication (Step 1) and will keep you posted on my progress in my blog next spring. If I need to resort to solarization (using the sun’s heat to kill the plants under plastic), then this might be the next step for me. Stay tuned!!!

If you are a fan of using plants as groundcover in your gardens and raised beds, proceed with caution. If it spreads quickly, filling in bare areas, then it is likely invasive at worst and hard to manage at best. Proceed with caution and be prepared to observe and manage the groundcover to avoid the situation where the plant literally takes over the garden, eliminating all other species. In addition, there are many native Ontario alternatives to the traditional groundcovers…try them out and enjoy (https://www.inournature.ca/native-groundcovers).

Bulbs, Children, Communication, Seniors

Sharing the Love of Gardening

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

I’ve always loved nature and the environment, but my all consuming love for everything gardening didn’t hit until we owned our first home in West Rouge, Ontario. Finally, we had a place where we could put our own “stamp” on the landscape, and we loved trying new plants in our gardens.

We made a lot of mistakes in those beginning years, but over the past 30 years both I (and my husband) have learned so much. Most of that learning came through joining local horticultural societies and eventually (for me) becoming a Master Gardener (MG) in 2012 after taking the requisite courses and becoming part of my local MG group in Peterborough.

Reaching out to the Younger Generation

While we don’t have kids, we are grateful for all the youngsters in our Lakefield neighbourhood and this summer, our neighbour’s son, who is 3.5 years old, has shown an interest in gardening.

He first saw our lovely summer phlox in all shades of pink, purple and white in August and decided he would like it in ‘his garden’. So we proceeded with some hands on learning, digging up some plants (with his supervision), and replanting them in their front garden (after consulting with mom, who asked to have both pink and white in the garden).

Summer phlox moving across the road from our house to L’s house
Learning about watering their new plants

This past week, little L saw me out in the garden planting bulbs, and his curiosity was peaked. His mom had picked up some Grape Hyacinth (Armeniacum) and I happened to have a few extra Daystemon Species Tulips, which we are naturalizing in our garden.

Species/botanical tulips originated in the Asia and Turkey back in the 1800s and are the basis of all our modern tulips. They are short, naturalize, and the Daystemon variety have white tipped star shaped yellow flowers. Bonus? They are deer and critter resistant.

Daystemon Tarda Species Tulips

So, rake and small spade in hand, this past weekend L, his mom and I cleared off the leaves in their front garden bed and proceeded to learn about how to plant bulbs.

Putting our special bulbs in the ground.

L learned all about ‘pointy end up, furry end bottom’ and all the bulbs got planted in their spots, along with a bit of dried chicken manure (just to try and put off the squirrels). He was very excited to hear that these little bulbs would be pretty purple and yellow flowers in the spring.

After raking the leaves back in place (again to dissuade the squirrels from being too inquisitive), we will have to wait until the spring to see the results.

It’s not all about the youngsters

Gardening is for everyone, and I’m also so impressed with some of the work that our Peterborough Master Gardeners do in our community, particularly with seniors.

For many years, several of my colleagues have been volunteering at a local retirement home, assisting elderly residents with raised garden beds, and sensory therapy. Their work really touches me deeply as moving into a senior’s residence and leaving your home (and garden) doesn’t mean that your love of gardening is any less (or that you can’t take up a new hobby if you haven’t gardened before).

Studies have proven that horticultural therapy significantly improves senior’s mental and physical well-being by reducing depression and anxiety, enhancing cognitive function, boosting self-esteem, promoting social interaction, providing gentle physical activity, and offering a sense of purpose through gardening activities.

Photo credit: Grand Strand Comfort Care

So, no matter what your age, if you love to garden, try and find a way to share that with both the younger and older generations. Gardening is for everyone.

Disease, Garden Cleanup, Garden rejuvenation, Planting, Pruning, Shrubs & Trees

November Reflections

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by Lois Scott, Peterborough Master Gardener

Even though we are more than half way through November many gardeners are still finding things to do, enjoy or plan for in the garden.

This fall I planted a number of woody plants including three small trees and 2 shrubs which have required ongoing watering. With new woody plantings it is important to water them well, right up to the time that the ground freezes, paying attention to not drowning them but preventing the roots from drying out.

Tree roots are actively growing in the cool fall weather so they need the moisture. Here’s how to do it right.

As the season advances and the trees are bare it is an excellent time to see if there are any pruning needs. Wood that is diseased, damaged or dead/dying should be pruned sooner rather than later.

According to Lee Reich, author of ‘The Pruning Book’, pruning for structure is best left until late winter after the coldest part of the winter is past. Wounds in wood heal most quickly just as plant growth is getting underway rather than the fall when wounds heal poorly and many fungi are spreading their ‘disease producing spores’.

Of particular note is the caution to not prune any Oak species during the growing season due to Oak Wilt disease. If you do need to prune during the growing season apply wound paint to the cut area.

I am planning for some structural pruning on a Star Magnolia in late winter 2025 and I can now see the tree’s structure to plan for that which is a process I enjoy.

This November I am still enjoying the frost tolerant kale and arugula that were started in grow bags in late summer. They have stopped actively growing with the cold temperatures but are still very edible. At this time of year there is no concern about them bolting (going to seed)!

Walking our neighbourhood has also afforded me the opportunity to see and enjoy what nature and gardens have to offer in November. Oaks still bearing their beautiful fall foliage and my neighbour’s fabulous roses are just a few of the visual treats.

I hope your November garden reflections are enjoyable and satisfying!