As the final days of the year tick past and the garden gets ready for winter, it’s the perfect time to reflect on the lessons that the past gardening season have meant to me. From the first tentative sprouts of spring to the vibrant foliage of autumn, many moments in the garden have been a source of inspiration and gratitude.
In the quiet solitude of my gardens, I find peace and beauty. The garden has tried to teach me patience as I witnessed the transformation of tiny shoots into flourishing plants, reminding me that growth takes time, both in nature and in life. Each new plant, bulb, tree and shrub has been a learning experience as I determine how best to care for them. Watering, weeding, watching things grow – it’s a simple kind of satisfaction. Success and failure are both reflected in the final layout at the end of the gardening season.
Fall brings a slow-down as the garden prepares for the coldest months of the year; dormancy for some, death for others. I’m grateful for the colours & textures in the autumn garden and the resiliency that many plants display.
As winter settles in, I’m grateful for the quiet months too. The garden might be sleeping, but it’s not forgotten. It’s there, waiting for the days to get longer and the sun to warm up the soil. I’m grateful for open spaces, hills, fields and parks nearby where I can wander through trees and rocks throughout this season, sometimes regardless of the temperature. I do have to admit that I’m not always a fan of the ultra cold, though!
Looking forward to spring, it’s like a natural reset button. New shoots, new colors – everything waking up again. Planning for the next season is already on my mind. What to plant, where to plant it – it’s the anticipation of starting the cycle all over again.
In this simple plot of earth that I call home, there’s a lot to be thankful for. The lessons, the wonder, the beauty – it’s all there, waiting for the next round. Here’s to another year of growing, learning, and being grateful for what the garden brings.
Full disclosure: Just a few short years ago, before Master Gardener training, I considered my house the place where houseplants came to die. Changing my plant care routines has saved plant lives but winter has its challenges.
Watering
As a Master Gardener in training, I learned that 80% of house plant “failures” were due to over-watering. That was empowering for me and changing watering practices has led to success. In winter, plant growth is decreased and house plants need less water. Before watering check to see if the top 1-2” of soil is dry. With smaller plants you can also get to know the weight of a saturated pot relative to a dry pot by lifting them a few times between waterings. Water thoroughly only when your plant feels dry. Underwatering is much better than overwatering. Signs of overwatering include the wilting or yellowing of lower leaves and inner leaves advancing to scorch, leaf drop and plant death.
Fertilizing
During the winter when houseplants may not be actively growing, they do not need fertilizing.
Humidity levels are lower in our homes during the winter. For house plants that prefer higher humidity the only sure way to provide this is by increasing the humidity in your home which may be problematic. Some people advocate misting plants, placing them on a pebble tray filled with water or clustering plants so that they can benefit from the water that each plant transpires. The effectiveness of these methods is questionable. Choosing plants that tolerate less humid conditions, like succulents is another option. Plants suffering from low humidity may develop drying and browning around leaf edges.
Light
As light levels drop in winter some plants may need to be moved to increase the amount of light they receive or have supplemental light provided such as fluorescent grow lights. Symptoms of not enough light include pale green, yellow to white leaves, leggy stems, dropping leaves, variegated leaves becoming solid green or flowering plants not flowering. Lighting for plants is an involved discussion but this article https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants has good information.
Houseplants are a beautiful indoor feature providing pleasure for many. Mastering winter care for your house plants will keep them healthy and beautiful, a wonderful touch of green in our winter world.
At a recent horticulture meeting, the subject of using wood ash in the garden came up. As the days grow shorter and the temperatures drop, I was reminded of this. As someone who used to heat the house with wood, I am no stranger to finding uses for my ashes. Although most of the time, the ash went onto icy paths and the lane, there was always some left in the spring. Those were spread in a thin layer over some of the soil in the garden. As with most things, ashes in moderation can be a good thing, sometimes!
Why use wood ash in the garden? From my perspective there are two reasons for wanting to use ash in the garden.
1. Recycling. Better to see the ash returned to the earth than ending up in the landfill.
2. Benefits to the soil. Constituents of ash can vary depending on what type of wood is burned but generally the largest component is calcium carbonate (20%). Next is potassium (10%), phosphorous (1%) and possibly some trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Used in moderation, ash does act as a fertilizer but note it is not a complete fertilizer as it doesn’t contain nitrogen.
Keep your eye on Soil pH
Ash is alkaline due to its calcium carbonate component and has the ability to affect soil pH. For those growing acid loving plants such as azalea or blueberry, the addition of wood ash will not be appreciated. Folks with neutral to slightly sweet soil probably will not notice any deleterious effects however if you are struggling with an elevated pH, ashes could end up tying up more micronutrients such as iron and result in even more chlorosis in plants.
How do I use wood ash and how much?
As a general rule of thumb, an application rate of 20 pounds (approximately a 5 gallon pail) per 1000 square feet per year (it takes about one cord of wood to produce this much ash). I have seen recommendations on applications for both spring and fall. Just recall that wood ash is very fine and blows away quite easily. It seems best to apply a thin layer to moist soil or to dig it in. Wood ash can also be added to compost piles at a low rate (sprinkle one or two cups on top of pile when adding green or brown material to the pile but do not exceed more than 5% of the total volume of the compost).
Cautions when using wood ash
Ash is caustic. Wear a mask to avoid breathing it in and wear appropriate PPE. Never mix ash with nitrogen fertilizers such as urea or ammonium sulphate as such a mixture will produce ammonia gas. There are certain things you should not burn if you plan on using your ashes in the garden as they could contain heavy metals such cadmium, chromium or lead. These things include: Treated lumber, painted or stained wood, cardboard, fake fireplace logs, coal, BBQ briquets and any wood that was ignited with a fuel such as gasoline. Some references caution against using the ash from wood that was grown near industrial locations for fear of heavy metal contamination.
Since wood ash does have some benefit as a soil amendment, it seems like this is one more way to reduce the amount of waste going to our landfill. Why not give it a try?
Canna lily (Canna X generalis) is an herbaceous perennial. This means that Cannas will die back over winter and regrow from the root in spring. However, in our zone 5 area, it is too cold for the Canna’s underground rhizome to survive and regrow the following spring. What to do?
Cannas may grow to be very large (that is, up to 6 feet tall). They may be used as a mass planting, at the back or center of a border or flower bed, and in pots as the “thriller”. They have large colourful blooms and large leaves that appear almost tropical. The foliage and flower colour vary depending on the cultivar. Even the seed pods are interesting.
Cannas in a mixed garden
Cannas prefer full sun but will still do well in part shade. They will bloom all summer. They prefer slightly acidic, well-drained soil which contains lots of organic matter.
I used a bright orange Canna in a large pot this year on our deck. It was quite striking against our pale gray house…..definitely worth saving for next year!
Canna closeup
I have been emptying pots over the last week or so and decided it was time to tackle the Canna. It is best to do this after the first frost. Up until the first frost, the plant is still growing and putting energy into the roots. As mentioned, Cannas may grow quite large. Mine was about 60 cm (2 ft) tall.
I thought that it would be a difficult task to remove the Canna and prepare it for winter storage. I was happily surprised to find it an easy task. Gently remove the Canna from the pot using a garden trowel to loosen it first. Grasp the stem and lift the entire plant, with root attached, out of the pot. The Canna has a fibrous rhizome which may then be divided into individual stems. Do not wash the rhizomes but do gently remove as much soil as possible. Allow the rhizomes to airdry for a few days. The Canna rhizomes may then be stored in peat or vermiculite in a cool dry space.
You may also leave your Canna in its pot, cut back the foliage and store the pot in a cool, above freezing, spot over the winter. I do not have a cool space where I can store potted plants so I chose to store just the rhizomes.
Seed pod
Next spring, after all danger of frost has past, repot or plant your Canna rhizomes. You will be thrilled to see that your beautiful Canna survived the winter and is soon ready to start blooming again for another season.
For more information on overwintering Cannas and other plants, please check out the links below.
Book Review: Tiny + Wild: Build a Small-Scale Meadow Anywhere by Graham Laird Gardner (Cool Springs Press, 2023).
More and more, gardeners are looking to transform their spaces with an ecological focus in mind. The goal may be to provide food and habitat for pollinators and other wildlife, or to reduce or eliminate traditional high-maintenance and less environmentally friendly practices (e.g., mowing, watering, fertilizing, tilling, weeding, pesticide use). There is a treasure-trove of how-to guidance on the web but sometimes it is nice to pick up a book that also contains photos of ecological gardens that are practical as well as beautiful. I recently picked-up such a book called Tiny + Wild: Build a Small-Scale Meadow Anywhere by Graham Laird Gardner (no relation, lol). A meadow-styled garden on a small scale can be both aesthetically pleasing as well as have high ecological impact. Gardner provides step-by-step guidance on how to evaluate your property, how to select the best location, learn basic design principles, determine how best to prepare your site, as well as how to choose, install, and maintain the plants for your project.
Some people have eliminated their lawns entirely and have converted them to gardens. However, it may be daunting to think about a whole-scale lawn conversion project. What I like about this book is that it encourages beginners that starting small is ok. Gardner advises selecting a small area to experiment with first and then look at expansion later (p. 51). Some examples of starting small include creating a “micro meadow” on a balcony, stoop, patio, or rooftop using containers; or creatively incorporating flowering plants in raised beds or a vegetable garden that are both edible to humans and are attractive to pollinators. Other possible interesting small-scale projects include developing a meadow in a rain garden, a drainage swale, a boulevard, or even a gravel garden.
The book is full of great tips. For example, when considering adopting a meadow-styled garden, it is important for the design to emphasize grasses and sedges over flowering plants. Incorporating too many of the latter can make it disjointed and unnatural. The former serve as the foundation that brings everything together. Aim for 1/4 tall, structural species, 1/2 medium-height species, and 1/4 ground cover species (p. 69).
Another suggestion that did not occur to me is to use annuals in the first couple of years after installing the native plants (p. 150). The reason for this is because it usually takes three years for native plants to become established and annuals can be used for a short time to fill in the initial gap. The only disadvantage I can see with using annuals is that most are not native species and they do have a tendency to self-seed. The latter can be managed with some dead-heading maintenance, however.
This book in some areas is only a starting point and the reader still needs to do more research. In the last chapter, there are some suggested plants in lists grouped by height, bloom colour, bloom time, lighting, and moisture; however, some of these are not native to our area or may be difficult to acquire. In some cases, you can select a plant from the same genus that is listed in the book. For example, the listed Erigeron compositus (Cutleaf Fleabane) is not native to Ontario but Erigeron pulchellus (Robin’s-Plantain Fleabane) is. They both are comparable in size (height).
Geum triflorum: a great native selection for a meadow
There are just a few parts of the book where I have suggestions:
1) Although there is a warning to the reader to verify that the plants listed in the book are not invasive in their area (p. 139), I think that there are a couple known to be widely problematic that should have been left out: Ajuga reptans (Bugleweed) and Scilla siberica (Siberian Squill).
2) In the section on shade meadows (p. 50), I would point out that gardeners should be careful when planting in the vicinity of trees. Some species are more sensitive than others. Planting under trees should be a gradual process that is staggered over the course of a few seasons. In addition, small plugs are more appropriate than larger potted plants. These practices can minimize disturbances to tree roots. Gardeners should think of the tree’s health first.
3) The section on removing the existing vegetation (e.g., sod) suggests that you can forgo using layers of organic matter and cardboard and simply top dress with topsoil. After applying the topsoil, you can plant and at the same time; the vegetation below is smothered and decomposes (p. 88). It is not clear how thick a layer of topsoil is needed as I suspect grass and other weeds will poke through. While Gardner is generally opposed to using wood mulch in a meadow garden (p. 89), I think that a very thick layer can be used initially to eliminate the grass and it will break down over time quickly enough and does not need to be replenished—allowing for the plantings to expand.
As gardeners, we are aware of the importance of trees. In our yards they give us shade from the hot sun, dropping the temperature beneath them and cooling the air. They give habitat to birds and insects. They purify the air and help reduce greenhouse gases. They anchor the soil and help with soil erosion. They give us privacy. Studies have shown that trees also help our mental health. In the past few years, ice storms, spongy moths, wind storms, and the recent derecho have damaged many trees in our area. Around every neighbourhood, you hear the buzz of chainsaws throughout the year. Last week, we had one of our lovely big sugar maples cut down because it became diseased. Heartbreaking but necessary to have it taken down.
Fungal diseases are often the culprit of the decline and death of many species of trees. Trees that are planted where their roots have no good earth to grow in become stressed. A stressed plant is easier for pests and diseases to invade. Our sugar maple was close to our driveway and although it is not paved, the ground is compacted.
Years of drought also affect a tree’s health. Wind storms can damage branches and leave open wounds where disease can find its way in. We are all familiar with Dutch Elm disease which has been in Ontario since 1946. It is a highly contagious fungal disease that has almost wiped out elm trees. Many of the dead trees you see along roadsides are elms.
Anthracnose is a common disease in maple and oak trees. It often appears after a damp cool spring. Brown blotches appear on leaves, they dry up and fall off. When combating this disease, you need to rake up and dispose of infected leaves. Tar Spot is common on norway maples. Although it may not kill your tree, it is a fungal disease and will continue to spread. It is recommended to rake up leaves and dispose of them rather than mulching them.
Spruce trees were stressed by the spongy moths and drought and we are seeing them suffering with Cytospora Canker. Signs of this disease are needles turning purple, then brown, then dropping off leaving branches bare but covered with a white resin. Cankers appear on the branches near the trunk.
Last week’s post was on Oak Wilt, a recent fungal disease which has no chemical control yet. Pests are also a huge problem with our trees. Emerald Ash Borer has been in Ontario since 2002. The metallic green beetle emerges in late June, laying eggs in crevices of bark. Larvae overwinter under bark and tunnel under the bark leaving “S” shaped marks which cuts off the trees ability to draw food and water. There is an insecticide that a professional can inject into the tree.
Spruce budworm is native to North America. It attacks balsam fir (Abies balsamea), white and black spruce (Picea), hemlock (Tsuga), jack and eastern white pine (Pinus) and Larch (Larix). BTK has been used to control, however if you have a mature tree this option is overwhelming. We all need to be aware of the health of the mature trees on our property. Ensure they are getting enough water, watch for small leaves or broken branches and pest infestations. Call an expert arborist to give advice on an ailing trees. They can also help with any pruning issues that might need to be addressed.
If you are investing in a tree for your property, be sure to do some research and find the right tree for the right spot. Take into consideration how big the tree will get, where the sun will shine on it, how much ground it will have to absorb moisture and what competition it might have. Young trees need lots of water to get established and grow. What’s that old saying? Hug a tree? Well, after you hug your tree, check out the references below for more information on diseases and pests and ways to help your trees.
Oak trees are an essential part of Ontario’s natural beauty, providing shade, wildlife habitat, and a sense of nostalgia. However, these majestic trees face a silent threat known as oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease that can devastate entire oak populations if left unchecked. In this article, we’ll discuss what oak wilt is and how you can help prevent its spread.
What is Oak Wilt? Oak wilt is a disease caused by the fungus Bretziella fagacearum. It primarily affects oak trees, especially red oaks and pin oaks. The fungus clogs the tree’s water-conducting vessels, causing wilting, leaf loss, and eventually death. Oak wilt is highly contagious, spreading through root grafts between neighboring trees or by sap-feeding beetles that transport the fungus spores.
Avoid Pruning Oaks in Spring and Early Summer: Oak wilt spores are most active during these seasons. Pruning creates wounds that can attract sap-feeding beetles carrying the fungus. Instead, prune oak trees during the dormant season in late fall or winter.
Use Pruning Paint: After pruning, seal the wounds with pruning paint or a latex-based paint to prevent beetles from entering and spreading the disease.
Dispose of Infected Wood Properly: If you suspect oak wilt, remove and destroy infected wood by burning or burying it. Do not use it for firewood or mulch.
Report Suspected Cases: If you notice oak trees showing signs of oak wilt, contact your local forestry department or arborist immediately. Early detection and intervention can help contain the disease. This link may help: Signs and Symptoms of Oak Wilt.
Promote Tree Health: Healthy trees are less susceptible to oak wilt. Ensure your oaks receive proper care, including regular watering, fertilization, and protection from other stressors like construction damage.
Oak Wilt has been found in the following locations in Ontario: City of Niagara Falls, township of Springwater (north of Barrie), and Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON.
There is currently no available treatment for oak wilt.
We must take collective action to protect our oak trees from oak wilt. By following these prevention measures and staying vigilant, we can help preserve the beauty and ecological importance of these remarkable trees for generations to come.
What says fall or October more than the iconic pumpkin? But how much do you really know about them?
Here’s 10 things about pumpkins that might surprise you.
They’re technically a fruit, not a vegetable. Pumpkins are a winter squash in the family Cucurbitaceae (which includes cucumbers, melons, and gourds.) Pumpkins, along with cucumbers, tomatoes, and avocados, grow from the flowers of their plants. So yes, all squashes are technically fruits as well. It is the official State Fruit of New Hampshire.
They’re native to the Americas. Scientists believe that pumpkins originated in the Americas about 9000 years ago. The oldest pumpkin seeds were found in Mexico and date to somewhere between 7000-5550 B.C.. Originally small and bitter, they were selectively bred by native peoples to be bigger, sweeter, and have more flesh.
They weren’t originally called pumpkins. The word “pumpkin” originates from “pepon” – which means “large melon” in Greek. Then it evolved to “pompon” (in French) and “pumpion” (in Britain). The evolution in North America was to “pumpkin,” what we use today.
Every single part of a pumpkin is edible. That means the skin, leaves, flowers, pulp, seeds, and stems. And they’re 92 percent water. Pumpkin and other squash blossoms can be eaten raw or I’m told they are tasty when lightly battered and fried. Pumpkin pie is a traditional part of Thanksgiving meals in Canada and the United States.
Bumble bees and squash bees are the primary pollinators of the cucurbit family of plants. They help transfer pollen from the male flower to the female flower by visiting each flower to drink the nectar located in the flower. As the bee drinks nectar it vibrates and moves its body around and in doing so, collects grains of pollen on the fine hairs of its body and in pollen baskets located in some species on their legs.
Pumpkins (along with other squash) were a historically important food staple among Native Americans. Using the “Three Sisters Method,” three crops (squash, maize, beans) were grown together – usually near riverbanks – so they could sustain each other. Corn is the trellis upon which the beans climb; beans keep the corn stalks stable on windy days, while also nourishing their soil; and pumpkins/squash shelter the corn’s shallow roots and prevent weeds from forming.
They’re a great source of beta carotene (which is what gives it the orange colour). It turns into vitamin A after you eat it, so it’s excellent for your eye and skin health.
They can get REALLY big. The heaviest pumpkin ever recorded was a staggering 1,226 kg (2,702 lb 13.9 oz), grown by Stefano Cutrupi (Italy) in Tuscany, Italy in 2021.
How long do they last? After a pumpkin is cut, it will usually last about seven to 10 days. Find out how to pick the perfect pumpkin.
Each pumpkin contains about 500 seeds. Once they sprout, pumpkins take between 90 and 120 days to reach maturity, which is why it’s recommended to plant them between May and July.
A LAST NOTE: Just a reminder that you’ll see lots of social media posts after Halloween about giving your pumpkins a second life by putting them out for wildlife. In your own garden, break the pumpkin into small pieces and monitor and remove the pieces when they rot, mold, or aren’t eaten.
Check and see whether local zoos or wildlife rehabilitation centres are interested in donations for animal enrichment. NOTE: they must still be fresh – carved pumpkins break down quickly and whole pumpkins that have been sitting in the sun for weeks can quickly become contaminated and shouldn’t be given to animals to eat. Some municipalities also offer a drop-off program.
Please don’t put them on the side of the road or in natural areas, as this creates problems because if they are near ditches or roadsides, animals will be drawn in close to traffic where they may get hit.
Last but not least, if a pumpkin is starting to decompose, turn it into compost! Chop it up to speed up the process.
Many gardeners plant and harvest their own herbs throughout the summer either in outdoor planters, garden beds or even indoors where the aroma can be enjoyed throughout the season. And for some, fresh herbs from the garden come to an end as the growing season tapers off and fall temperatures and cool nights prevail. However, enjoying your herb bounty throughout the winter is not only possible, but easy to do. Frozen herbs can be enjoyed throughout the winter (I have used mine up to six months after freezing) in soups, casseroles, and other cooked dishes, using the same quantities in recipes as you would if they were “fresh”. However, they do tend to darken in color with freezing and as such cannot be used in some applications where raw fresh herbs are required (such as pesto and/or garnish).
To freeze herbs, the process is as simple as this:
Harvest your herbs before the frost takes them from you,
Ensure that they are clean (wash if unsure) and pat dry,
Lay them flat (leaves and stems) on a tray,
Put in freezer for one hour (“flash freeze”),
Remove and place in labeled freezer bags, and
Remove the air from the bags (use of a vacuum sealer may be helpful if freezing individual batches for later use.
Herbs that freeze well for use later in cooking include Basil, Chives, Dill, Lemongrass, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon and Thyme. An interesting option is to make an herb blend from your favourite herbs that you enjoy together. To do this, simply use 2 cups of fresh herbs and 1/3 cup of olive oil and blend thoroughly in a blender. Place the paste in an ice cube tray to freeze and then place frozen cubes in an airtight bag. Simply use the “herb paste” in any of your favourite dishes. I have used rosemary, thyme, basil, oregano, and mint together in a skillet chicken dish with fresh lemon zest, garlic and orzo pasta…simply delicious!!!
Alternatively, fresh herbs can be dried, stored and used throughout the winter as well. The process is as simple as this:
Bundle together 3-6 stems and bind end with garden yarn/string (see pic above),
Hang upside down in a dry and dark location,
Wait 2-3 weeks for them to be completely dry (ensure stems are brittle), and
Remove leaves and store in airtight jars or bags and use as per recipe as a “dry spice”.
Personally, I cannot see my summer herb bounty go to waste. It is well worth the effort to freeze, dry and/or make a paste blend…ensuring that you have fresh herbs throughout the season. Just add this activity to your fall canning party and share the wealth 😊.
At this time of year that nasty five letter word “frost” starts making an appearance in the weather forecast. Our hardy perennials will manage just fine with freezing temperatures but some of your plants may be tender perennials that won’t survive winter. As a reminder, a perennial is a plant that will live for more than two years. This can include bulbs like begonias and dahlias, rosemary, and geraniums just to name a few. Annuals complete their life cycle in one year and biennials in two. Tender perennials can give us years of beauty if we treat them well.
Pelargoniums, commonly called geraniums (which are different from hardy Geraniums/Cranesbill) are a tender perennial in our climate but they are easily wintered over using one or all of three different methods. You can take a stem cutting, overwinteras a potted plant, or overwinter as a bare-root plant. This link gives clear instructions for all three methods.
Personally, I will be taking a stem cutting from a geranium and a Dorotheanthus bellidiformis ‘Mesbicla’, commonly known as Mezoo Trailing Red, another tender perennial. Cuttings produce a plant identical to the parent, avoids any difficulty with starting from seed and will frequently produce a plant that matures faster and flowers sooner than a plant grown from seed.
I will be using an 8-10 cm stem that includes a few leaves. Make sure your cutting contains as much water as possible by watering your plant the day before and taking your cutting before the heat of the day reduces water content. Plants lose most of their moisture through leaves so I will remove half to a third of the leaves. Ideally, process the cutting right away or place it in water.
Using clean pots and tools, and soilless potting mix or vermiculite is important to reduce the chance of disease killing your cuttings. Once your pot is ready, secure the cutting by placing it into the medium far enough that the cutting can support itself. Put your pot in a closed plastic bag and place it in a warm, bright spot but not in direct sun. The plastic bag should keep the plant’s environment humid enough to prevent water loss in the cutting and reduce the need for any further watering. Too much moisture and the cutting will rot. More info here.
In a few weeks you should be rewarded with good root growth on your cutting which you can then repot and grow on for use in the garden next year.
The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners 