Do you ever wonder what’s going on in the garden when temperatures drop below freezing? How do perennials, shrubs and trees withstand the cold and dehydration of winter? As we prepare for the colder season above ground, a process of adapting to this change is also going on below ground.
What is Garden Dormancy?
Dormancy is a period of reduced growth in plants, allowing them to survive intense conditions such as cold temperatures or drought. During dormancy:
Trees and shrubs shed their leaves, reducing water loss and protecting against freezing temperatures.
Perennials retreat underground, focusing their energy on the roots rather than above-ground growth.
Dormancy is essentially a plant’s version of hibernation. Even though the plant may appear lifeless, it’s very much alive, just in a resting state.
Why Do Plants Go Dormant?
Survival Mechanism: Dormancy helps plants endure harsh conditions, preventing them from growing in unseasonal warm spells only to be killed by a subsequent freeze.
Rest and Rejuvenation: It allows plants to rest, develop stronger root systems and trunks, and accumulate the energy needed for vigorous growth in the spring.
Timing and Environmental Cues: Plants respond to environmental cues like shorter day lengths, decreasing temperatures, and reduced light to signal the onset of autumn and the need to prepare for dormancy.
The Gardener’s Role During Dormancy
Understanding the Cycle: Gardeners learn to recognize the signs of dormancy and understand its importance for plant health and the overall garden ecosystem.
Winter Protection: Proper care during dormancy, such as using mulch or wrapping to protect against frost, helps safeguard plants from potential damage.
Be patient: In spring, don’t panic if some perennials take longer to re-emerge. Late risers like perennial hibiscus, Rose of Sharon and some ornamental grasses may take several weeks longer than others to show signs of growth.
Rest and Relaxation: Just like the plants in their gardens need rest, so too does the gardener. The slower seasons of fall and winter allow us to take stock of our gardens — what worked, what didn’t work, what needs to change — so that we approach next spring and summer rejuvenated!
November can be a odd and awkward time for gardeners. The blooms of summer are long gone, and even the hardiest plants are starting to fade. As we temporarily pack up our tools for winter, many of us go through something like the five stages of grief—only with more dirt under our fingernails than we usually have when grieving.
1. Denial It starts with pretending the frost and snow aren’t really that bad. You convince yourself that a touch of frost won’t actually kill your tomatoes and that they’ll bounce back by noon when they get a bit warmer. Spoiler: They won’t.
2. Anger Then comes the frustration. Why did you forget to cover the basil? Why didn’t the weather app warn you about that early freeze? You glare at the sky, muttering about how unfair it all is, and plan to move south at the earliest opportunity.
3. Bargaining You start making deals with nature: “If I bring the pots inside, maybe they’ll survive.” You shuffle plants indoors, rearranging windowsills in a desperate act of hope with space in the south window at a serious premium. You conveniently forget that most plants won’t actually survive inside of our dry as a desert homes—but you’ve gotta try, right?
4. Mulching Reality sets in, and you finally take action. You clean up the garden beds (leaving flower stalks for our nesting insects, of course), spread mulch, finally finish planting those tulip bulbs, and then tuck everything in for winter. The tools have been oiled and the mushy hosta leaves are in the composter, just in time for the fluffy stuff to start falling. It’s a quiet, grounding ritual—part farewell, part promise to return but mostly it’s acceptance of our fate as Canadians in a four season climate.
5. Hibernation At last, peace. You sip tea by the window, dream over seed catalogs, and plan next year’s garden. November reminds us that rest is part of the growing cycle too—and even gardeners need a little dormancy.
Last year I grew salad greens and herbs in my basement to supplement our supply of fresh food throughout the winter while I was missing my veggie garden. It was a rewarding (and tasty) experience but at the end of the season I felt I didn’t get enough food to be worth the time and effort required to grow those greens inside my house (on a budget, with limited space, and no sunny windows available).
Growing indoor greens, early last winter
This year I tried something different. I purchased some sprouting seeds and am trying to supplement my greens in smaller quantities but with a more consistent output and lots of bang for my buck in terms of nutrition. I am pleasantly surprised by how easy the process is and how little of my brain space (and time) it is requiring so far.
What are Sprouts & Microgreens?
Sprouts – A germinated seed, about 3-5 days old, with a long pale root and the beginnings of their first leaves (cotyledons) emerging. It is a baby plant that has not started photosynthesizing yet and is only utilizing the energy stored in the seed for its growth so far. You eat the entire thing, including the seed and root. It is mild in taste with a high water content but the nutrients from the seed have been unlocked.
Radish sprouts
Microgreens – A sprouted seed, about 7-14 days old, with cotyledons and its first true leaves emerging. The leaves have turned green, the plant is photosynthesizing and beginning to draw nutrients from its growing medium. When ready, you cut them at the bottom of the stem and eat the top. It has a high nutritional density and begins to develop its own unique flavour at this point. Allowing the plant to grow past this stage will turn it into a ‘baby green’ if space, moisture and nutrition allow.
Sunflower microgreens, freshly harvested
How do you grow them?
Here are some supplies you can use to get started:
You can germinate a seed into sprouts in any container that can hold moisture and provide drainage to the seeds. A mason jar or ‘sprouter’ can be used.
Sprouting lids – a mason-jar compatible lid that allows for easy addition and drainage of water when inverted and minimal loss of seeds. You could also use fabric, cheesecloth or some type of mesh.
Jar & Sprouting Lid.
Sprouting trays – Perforated trays with a dish underneath and a lid to hold in moisture. These trays can be used with the seeds directly in them for sprouts or with a small layer of soil or growing medium for microgreens. You could also use a recycled berry container with a tray or plate underneath.
Left: Tray for microgreens or sprouts Right: Growing microgreens in a berry container
Seeds – There is a wide variety available. Alfalfa, sunflowers, brassicas, peas and beans are some of the most common. Radish, beets, and herbs can also be used. You could also buy regular seed packets but sprouting seeds are sold with more in each bag, more suitable for sprouting quantities.
Sprouting seed packets
Most sprouting seed packets will include simple instructions. They usually direct you to cover the seeds with water and soak them (about 1-2 tbsp per litre mason jar) for 6-12 hours, then drain them and proceed to rinse and drain them twice per day until the sprouts are ready (3-5 days).
Left: Getting started with simple directions on the packet. Right: Draining the water from the seeds after they have been soaked. The jar will stay inverted like this until the next time I need to rinse and drain the seeds.
Alfalfa sprouts, ready to eat (approx. day 5). 1 tbsp of seeds filled the 1L jar with sprouts by the time they were ready. In this picture, I have already eaten some.
Microgreens are grown more like baby plants grown in a tray with soil or other growing medium underneath. The seeds are usually soaked in water first, then spread on top of a thin layer of soil and sprayed with water. They are then covered to keep it dark and moist around the seeds until they germinate, uncovered and then ideally bottom watered as needed until they are ready (7-14 days). A grow light or sunny window is required once they germinate.
Microgreens under grow light. In this case I am just sprouting them on a piece of unbleached paper, to keep it simple, tidy and easy to remove and compost once I’m done eating from it. You can also use soil or other growing mediums like coconut coir, cotton or hemp mats, etc. The more nutrients in the medium, the further you can mature your greens.
NUTRITION – They are known to be an excellent source of many vitamins and minerals but are also beginning to be known for their ability to improve digestion and gut health (Wright, 2022). Not only that, but they are also high in phytochemicals and antioxidants, proving themselves to be able to prevent and/or improve conditions such as Type 2 diabetes, cancer, heart disease, anemia, Alzheimer’s, and macular degeneration (Cleveland Clinic, 2023).
FRESH, YEAR-ROUND – Since you don’t need a lot of space for this, it is easy to grow these year-round.
INEXPENSIVE – Jars – $1.50 ea. Sprouting Lids – $4 ea, Seeds – $4/ bag (price varies based on type of seed)
QUICK & REWARDING – The time to harvest is so quick, which makes the experience of eating them just so rewarding. They are also very versatile. You can use them on sandwiches, in salads, as a soup garnish, or however you like! I even put them on my eggs in the morning.
Sprouts with breakfast!
Here is a list of Canadian companies that sell sprouting seeds and supplies:
Last April, I wrote an article entitled “How do my outdoor plants survive the winter?” Although not as popular a subject topic, a quick dip into the world of all things creepy crawly when the temperatures plummet may be of similar interest.
When winter hits our region, we head indoors, but what about insects? These creatures have incredible ways of making it through the cold winter months. So much for my favourite October joke: “What’s the best thing about October? The mosquitoes are dead.” True, but also not for long.
Some insects, like ladybugs and cluster flies, find shelter and enter a hibernation-like state called diapause. They slow their bodies down to a near standstill, using very little energy while tucked away in cracks, under leaves, or even in homes. Those sneaky lady beetles seem to be able to find a way into houses too!
Other insects, like woolly bear caterpillars, use natural antifreeze. Their bodies produce special chemicals called cryoprotectants, which prevent their cells from freezing. This allows them to survive temperatures well below zero.
Some insects, like mosquitoes, leave behind their eggs, which are tough enough to endure the cold. Come spring, these eggs hatch, and a new generation begins. Sigh. Similarly, some butterflies, like the Mourning Cloak, overwinter as adults in tree bark or woodpiles, waking up early in the spring.
For honeybees, survival is a team effort. They cluster together in their hives, shivering their bodies to create heat and keep the colony warm.
And then there are insects like crickets, which die off in the fall, leaving behind their eggs to carry on their legacy.
Winter may seem quiet, but beneath the snow, insects are surviving in remarkable ways. Whether through hibernation, antifreeze, or teamwork, our local insects prove how tough and adaptable nature can be—even in the coldest months. For some, like pollinators, that’s great news. For others, like the red lily beetle, the Japanese beetle, and aphids, we simply have to grin and bear it.
It’s the darkest time of the year, daylight is at its lowest, and most gardening has ended for the season. That doesn’t mean, however, that there is nothing in the garden to be enjoyed. Garden design and planting choices should take into account the many months when the garden is still and inactive. It’s during this time when, despite the lack of light and active growth, the garden is revealed. It is stripped bare of colour and the exuberance of growth is set aside. With the leaves gone and many small plants succumbing to frost, the garden reveals itself openly and honestly. It’s odd, but in the dark days of winter there is more light in the garden. Unencumbered by layers of leaves, loud colours, or scrambling growth, the garden becomes airy and lets us see its bones and form. There is a lot to consider and enjoy when the garden, no matter how big or how small, is revealed.
The low slanting light of late autumn and winter is an important piece of the beauty of the garden. Glancing out my bedroom window first thing every morning, I’m drawn to the morning light shining behind the swollen, grey buds of the magnolia tree next to the driveway. The buds are soft and fluffy, vulnerable yet so full of promise. In a nearby garden, there are a few large clumps of Karl Foerster grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) that sway and drift with the slightest breeze. Their slender stalks are a soft gentle brown, somehow able to withstand strong winds and pelting rain. Fall blooming grasses are a particular treat in fall and early winter, the slanting light is illuminated through the fluffy plumes making a beautiful statement. Hameln (Pennisetum Alopecuroides ‘Hameln’) is a favourite but there are many to choose from including some special native ones such as Side -oats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) and Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).
Another subtle feature of winter light is the shadow effect. The gentle lengthened shadows created by tree structure, moving grasses, seed heads, or conifer form merit consideration when choosing plants and placement. They are certainly worth more than a glance on a spectacular bright winter day.
The dried flower heads of ever popular hydrangeas are a common winter garden treat especially when topped with a light dusting of early snow. Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia), a small summer flowering shrub, also retains dried flower heads through fall and winter. Other shrubs offer interest because of bark colour and texture (red twig dogwood, cornus sericea) or growth habit. Staghorn Sumac doesn’t take centre stage in the summer, but offers spectacular colour in fall. In winter, its red fruits, antler-like branches, and graceful form make it a show-stopper. Another shrub favourite in my fall and winter garden is Seven-Son Flower (Heptacodium miconiodes). It is an all-around wonderful, unique shrub with added appeal for its beautiful peeling bark in winter. Other shrubs that hold particular appeal in the winter are Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) and Corkscrew Willow (Salix babylonida).
Limelight hydrangea in the snow
Summersweet in the snow
Of course, conifers are the bones of any garden in winter. With different needle textures and lengths, and different shapes and forms, they provide obvious interest to every garden. When everything else is grey and brown, the rich textured green of a conifer stands out and when the snow comes along their interest increases. It’s important to have a variety of shapes and forms: cylindrical, mounding, conical, and weeping. In a small urban garden such as mine, I’ve found dwarf varieties and columnar species. One of my favourites is a weeping white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Pendula’), which is supported and pruned to fit a small spot. It’s a lovely unique specimen tree with gentle movement, at certain times of the day its pleasure is doubled when the sun throws it shadow on the nearby shed.
Each year, I marvel when the colour returns to the garden in the form of spring bulbs and each year I make a plan to add more! The beds are full of narcissus so much so that I have started planting in spots in my front fields. However, this fall I am aiming to do a Stinzenplanten (a Dutch term also known as a stinze lawn or stinze). A stinzenplanten is a naturalized and wild bulb garden that lives underground and emerges in the earliest spring. Why am I writing about a fall project now?? Some of the best fall bulb prices by retailers such as Veseys and Brecks take place in May when everyone is busy planting their summer gardens.
Because stinzes are planted using many of the “minor” bulbs, they begin to bloom very early thereby extending your season. Generally, they (and their foliage) are gone by the time you need to mow the lawn. (This is important since bulbs recharge for the following year by absorbing sunrays through their green foliage. Once the foliage has yellowed it is safe to mow). This does of course depend on the bulbs you choose to use. In my own experience daffodils do not make great candidates for this type of endeavour. Their long, heavy foliage does not yellow until mid June. That is a long time to go without mowing!!
In our zone by picking bulbs from the very early spring, early spring and midspring groups you should have 6 plus weeks of solid bloom.
Very Early Spring Bulbs include Snowdrops (Galanthus woronowwii) the first to appear, often from under the snow; Winter aconite (Eranthis cilicica) a sunny yellow hardy bulb.
Early Spring varieties include Snow glories (Chiondoxa forbesii) whose star shape flowers comes in a variety of blue colours, Crocus (Crocus vernus and species crocus) is a striking bloom that is available in many different colours.
Early to Mid Spring bulbs to consider are Blue Shades Anemone (Anenome blanda) with its daisy like appearance which look a little less formal than the other bulbs; Snakes Head Fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris) is an unusual bloom with its checkerboard appearance; Grape Hyacinth (Muscari) known for its unique, grape like clusters of flowers in a variety of colours.
Selecting the best spot for your display
For most of us, underplanting the entire lawn would not be feasible so why not choose a spot that will give the best show for your viewing pleasure. Remembering that the stinze will start in winter when we are still very housebound. Pick a well-drained area as you would for any bulb. Not only do you avoid the bulbs rotting but this will encourage spread and naturalization of your planting. Some folks choose areas under and around deciduous trees.
For me, I am going to borrow an idea from @mettebfauerskov and lay my stinze out following a random pattern of the garden hose on a section of lawn that is between the laneway and an island bed. It will be easily seen from the house and driving in and out.
Bulbs should be planted about 3 inches deep and can be planted as close as 3 inches. Many people use their bulb agars to drill the holes and then throw 2 or 3 bulbs into each hole and cover with dirt. I will probably just use my hori hori knife to dig. Most of these bulbs are not bothered by wildlife. Crocus is the exception but, in my experience, when you are planting large numbers, the squirrels never get them all (I overplant this bulb to account for some loss). As well, if you put your planting off until the end of October the feeding frenzy has begun to subside and there is less pressure on your bulbs.
When a deciduous tree or shrub doesn’t have its foliage, other parts of the plant such as the stems and branches are more noticeable. For example, some species like this Manitoba Maple (Acer negundo) have a noticeable waxy cuticle or bloom on its young stems. This coating or layer acts as a defense mechanism that protects the plant from moisture loss, ultraviolet radiation, dust, fungi, pathogens, and insects. Concerning the latter, researchers found that a certain beetle species could temporarily lose its grip after its “tarsal setae” was covered with the wax stem crystals from A. negundo.[i] Research has also shown that A. negundo is able to regenerate the wax within only a few hours after its removal.[ii]
Waxy Cuticle of a Young Manitoba Maple (Acer negundo)
Dandelions in February?
I don’t remember the last time I saw a Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) in my garden bloom so early in the year. Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara) are usually the first yellow flowered plants to appear, but this one is clearly a Dandelion. From what I’ve read, it isn’t all that unusual. A researcher at the University of Western observed that “if there is a January or February thaw that lasts for at least a week, then flowering and seed production can occur.”[iii] This week’s mild temperatures caused the snow to recede by my walkway, unveiling a yellow bloom. It may be considered a “day-neutral” plant, but some also view it as a “short-day” species. “Day-neutral” species do not require a specific photoperiod to flower and “short-day” species flower with day lengths less than 12 hours.[iv] Its non-dormant seeds are also able to germinate at temperatures as low as 5 degrees Celsius.[v] In winter, they lie close to the ground as a basal rosette with the crown drawn towards the ground for maximum protection from the elements.[vi] More developed plants will have large energy stores in their tap roots to fuel more vegetative and flower growth in the spring.
Closeup of Dandelion
No Fall Cleanup
Last summer I planted a mass of Annual Sunflowers (Helianthus annus). Ideally, the dead plants would have been left completely intact in the fall to overwinter, but the flower/seed heads were so heavy that the stems had broken under the weight. I cut the pithy stems and seed heads and left them in a pile nearby for wildlife. The chipmunks were quite appreciative. Come spring, the old stems will remain for stem nesting bees such as Megachillidae species (e.g. Small Mason Bees and Leaf-Cutter Bees). Approximately 30% of our native bees require above-ground nesting sites. Rather than including commercial “bee hotels” in my garden, I am aiming for a constant cycle of old and new plant stems. New sunflowers will be planted around the old stems to eventually become new nest sites. Providing a wide range of different sized hollow and pithy-stemmed plants will also attract a variety of different bees. Some hollow-stemmed species in my garden include Milkweed (Asclepias), Bee Balm (Monarda), Cup Plant (Silphium), Anise Hyssop (Agastache), and Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium). Some pithy-stemmed species include Ironweed (Vernonia), Aster (Symphyotrichum), Goldenrod (Solidago), and Coneflower (Echinacea).[vii]
An Arrangement of Dead Plant Stems for Nesting Bees
A Dying Maple
Last summer, I noticed that a Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) tree in my front yard was showing dieback of the canopy in the centre. I can only guess, but I suspect that root girdling was the main cause. Environmental stresses such as drought and road salt could only have compounded the situation. Another strike against this tree is that it has weak co-dominant stems. I contacted the city to have them check it out. I came home to see the dreaded pink spot spray-painted on the trunk—it is marked to come down. I feel mixed emotions—on one hand, it is an invasive species that isn’t the best for our ecosystem but on the other hand, it is still sad to see any living tree come down—especially one that wasn’t very old. If it could remain safely standing as a snag, that would be beneficial for wildlife. A snag is a dead tree that is left to breakdown naturally. It serves as a nesting site for birds and other wildlife and the insects that reside in them serve as food for wildlife, fungi, and other microorganisms.
A Dying Maple
A Neighbour’s Snag
What’s going on in your garden?
[i] Gorb, E.V. and Gorb, S.N. (2002), Attachment ability of the beetle Chrysolina fastuosa on various plant surfaces. Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata, 105: 13-28. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1570-7458.2002.01028.x
[ii] Tomaszewski, Dominik & Zieliński, Jerzy. (2014). Sequences of epicuticular wax structures along stems in four selected tree species. Biodiversity: Research and Conservation. 35. 9-14. 10.2478/biorc-2014-0014.
[iii] S. M. Stewart-Wade, S. Neumann, L. L. Collins, and G. J. Boland. 2002. The biology of Canadian weeds. 117. Taraxacum officinale G. H. Weber ex Wiggers. Canadian Journal of Plant Science. 82(4). p. 835. https://doi.org/10.4141/P01-010
The new year arrived with not a speck of snow on the ground and although the ground was frozen and well watered from rainfall, that lack of snow can cause damage in your gardens. Snow, beautiful snow is a great insulator for your perennial beds. I often throw extra snow on things like my rhododendron or hibiscus as I am shoveling sidewalks. Mulch or leaves will also insulate the ground so it is always good to mulch up your garden in the fall, because we can’t depend on snowfall through the cold winter months.
February often brings a thaw as well as the ice and storms that can do damage to trees and flowering shrubs. Cold temperatures, biting winds and the strong winter sun can bleach or dry evergreens when they are not protected by snow. Wrapping in burlap will not save plants from the cold, but it will protect them from wind and sun.
Sunscald can happen when the sun shines brightly on cold winter days, raising the temperature on tree bark which can trigger it to start to grow. When the sun sets and temperatures drop, bark cells in the cambium layer are killed. The cambium layer is just below the tree bark where nutrients travel between roots and leaves. Sunscald will cause scarring or cankers on the trunk and tends to be on the south side of the tree. It usually will not kill a tree but it can put stress on it. It can be harmful on young trees whose bark is thinner. Wrapping your young tree trunk with white tree guards can help with this. Tree guards will also help keep rabbits and other creatures from chewing the bark. Remember to remove this guard in spring.
Dieback can happen on flowering shrubs during a cold dry period. Flower buds that set in the fall can also be killed off from the cold. Plants like forsythia and rhododendron may need to be planted in protected areas with good snow protection and without wind so they produce flowers. Other shrubs like hydrangea that are not for our zone 5b gardens may not flower in our area because they set their buds in fall and when we get those cold winter days and nights, the buds die. Pruning in fall can encourage growth when the plant should be beginning to rest for winter, so don’t prune too late into fall.
Frost heaving happens when soil freezes and thaws, and when there is not enough snow cover to keep the ground insulated. The semi evergreen coralbell (heuchera) can suffer and die if they heave. Be sure these perennials are well watered and planted into the ground well before freeze up.
When the freezing temperatures and snow arrives, animals like rabbits, mice, voles and deer often feed on the flowering shrubs and trees in your garden, eating bark, twigs and flower buds. I have had rabbits eat euonymus, bridal wreath spirea, yews and willow trees. This winter I have put up burlap fencing around some of my bushes so rabbits can’t “prune” them. I want snow, but I hope it doesn’t pile up too high so the little varmints can just hop over!
In the heart of downtown Selwyn where a heavy winter blanket covers my gardens, a magical process is unfolding in the underworld of some of my plants.
In the heart of my living room, I’m actively crossing off the days until Spring.
But, back to the plants. To monitor the seasonal progression and to time their reproductive development, plants must be able to sense and remember environmental cues such as temperature. The process by which plants use a prolonged cold period – winter – to promote flowering is known as vernalization.
Vernalization is the botanical equivalent of a winter sleepover, but instead of cozying up with blankets and hot cocoa, plants snuggle up to the cold. This process is essential for plants like winter wheat, rye, and most spring flowering bulbs in our region. Basically it is a cold period where specific plants not only go dormant (they hit the pause button until the weather warms) but must be exposed to a certain number of days with minimum temperatures or they will not grow properly and flower. It acts as a sort of safety mechanism to ensure that the growing and blooming process takes place at the correct time.
Picture this: a seed or bulb lies dormant in the frozen soil, patiently waiting for winter’s icy touch. As the temperature drops, the plant detects the chill and starts a biochemical countdown for a certain number of days. It’s as if the cold serves as a bell ringer, signaling that it’s time to prepare for the grand spectacle of spring. It’s amazing that even in the harshest conditions, nature has its own way of orchestrating the grand spectacle of life.
So, in my living room I continue to mark the winter days off one by one, reminding myself that the bulbs I planted in October need a cold cold winter to make my garden spring to life. It will definitely be worth it!
As the snow blankets our gardens in Ontario, many might assume it’s time to hang up the gardening gloves until spring. However, seasoned gardeners know that December can be a time of indoor/outdoor preparation for the upcoming growing season.
One key activity for this month is winter mulching. While it may seem counterintuitive to spread mulch in the cold, it’s a crucial step to protect your plants from the harsh Canadian winter. A thick layer of mulch acts as a cozy blanket, shielding the soil and plant roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Thankfully in our region, Mother Nature does this job for us in the form of snow!
For those dreaming of vibrant spring blooms, December is the ideal time to start forcing bulbs indoors. Tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths can be coaxed into early flowering by providing them with a period of cold storage, mimicking the winter chill they would experience outdoors.
Don’t forget about your compost! While your outdoor compost pile may slow down in the winter, it’s still a valuable resource. If you don’t do this already, consider continuing your indoor composting with kitchen scraps to keep the nutrient-rich compost coming, even in the colder months. People living in the city will probably be already doing this thanks to the new green bin program, but for others living outside of the city limits, sometimes the outdoor compost pile seems like it’s just too far to venture to in the cold. However, a little bit of effort now will divert a lot of food waste from the landfill.
Lastly, embrace the festive spirit by incorporating evergreen plants into your outdoor decor. Hollies, spruces, and winterberry bushes add a touch of green to the winter landscape and can be adorned with festive lights or ornaments.
December in Ontario might be chilly, but for gardeners, it’s a time of planning, protecting, and finding joy in the small wonders that the winter garden has to offer. So, bundle up, grab your gardening tools, and let the December gardening adventures begin!
The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners 