Category Archives: Herbs

Herbs, Planting, Seeds, Websites

Growing and Using Culinary Herbs part 2

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By Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

Growing and Using Culinary Herbs part 1 is from August 2025.

Let’s look at where to get herb seeds and plants.

Richters in Goodwood is one of the largest herb growers in North America. You can learn a lot from just reading their extensive catalogue.  Their greenhouses are well worth a visit and Goodwood is only about an hour’s drive from Peterborough. They carry dried herbs as well as plants and seeds. Richters is open year round; check their website for days and hours. Many local nurseries carry a good selection of seeds and plants.

Start your seeds under lights in February/March e.g. basil, sage, thyme, lovage and harden them off slowly. You can direct seed outdoors once the soil is warm enough. Parsley seeds have a hard coating and it is a good idea to soak them overnight first. You will need to sow coriander seeds every month if you want a continuous supply of cilantro leaves.

Many herbs can be successfully propagated by taking hardwood cuttings. Rosemary works well this way if you take the cuttings in mid summer to mid fall. Take the cutting just below a node, dip it in hormone powder and insert several cuttings into a soilless mix. Cover with a plastic bag and open every few days to clear some of the moisture. They will root in 4 – 6 weeks.

Lots of herbs benefit from dividing in the spring. Good candidates are parsley, chives, lemon balm, oregano and thymes. Woody herbs such as sage and thymes can be layered by pegging a stem into the soil. Check for roots in a month or so and once rooted they can be cut from the mother plant and replanted.

Many perennial herbs such as lavender, hyssop and oregano can be lightly pruned in the fall and harder in the spring. I don’t prune sage until after it has finished flowering as the bees  love the purple flowers.

Picking the growing tips frequently encourages fresh new growth and gives you lots of herbs for cooking. Lovage and sorrel should be cut back hard after flowering to encourage new bushy growth. The best time to harvest for peak flavour is in the morning before the essential oils have evaporated. Leaves should be young and before the plant flowers.

There are several options to preserve your herbs for culinary use. Herbs such as basil, chives, chervil and parsley work well finely chopped and put in ice cube trays with a little olive oil or water. Freeze and use them to pop into stews and soups.

If you have a warm, dark, well ventilated space , tie the herbs loosely and hang upside down. Larger leaves can be dried on a mesh screen. Dehydrators are great or you can use a microwave on a low setting. Once thoroughly dry, store in labelled glass or ceramic containers away from the light.

Garlic dill pickles are easy to make and make great gifts. Pestos and vinegars are a great way to use your herbs. Vinegars are simple  to make and tarragon, thyme and basil are especially good and will last a long time. I use herbal vinegars for salad dressings and to pep up soups and stews.

Herbal butters are straight forward  to make but give a real lift to vegetables, grilled meat, stuffings, or pasta. Finely chop 4 to 5 tablespoons of fresh herbs to 8 oz of softened butter and blend well. Place in cling film and form into a long rectangle. Chill, cut into lengths and wrap tightly in foil, label and freeze. You can then slice off any amount that you want.

I have just touched on the many wonderful culinary herbs that you can grow. Have fun, experiment and enjoy the wonderful smells and tastes of fresh herbs.

Further information:

Richters   www.richters.com

Taste of Home  www.tasteofhome.com

The Complete Book of Herbs – Lesley Bremner

Advice, Garden Design, Greenhouses, Herbs, Planting, Vegetable Gardening

Cold Frames – A Mini Greenhouse in Your Garden

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by Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

I’m sipping my coffee on the deck, overlooking my vegetable garden. Everything shows signs of fall. The onions and garlic have been harvested. The green beans are finished for the season and are ready for the compost pile. The zucchini and summer squash are suffering from powdery mildew, and the tomatoes are carrying the last few fruits of the season. Although summer is ending, the fall gardening season is just beginning – and I have a secret weapon: a cold frame.

Why Cold Frames Work

Several leafy green vegetables can survive and even thrive in cooler temperatures. Kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, and spinach produce sugars that lower the freezing point of water in their cells, protecting them from damaging ice crystals. These crops tend to bolt in the heat of summer but thrive in the crisp days of fall. Still, even hardy plants will eventually succumb to our harsh Canadian winters.

That’s where a cold frame comes in – you can significantly extend your growing season with one. Imagine brushing snow off your cold frame in November to harvest fresh kale for a salad!

Cold frame basics (Source: “Large Cold Frame” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0)

What Is a Cold Frame?

A cold frame is a low, bottomless structure with a transparent lid that protects plants from wind and cold. The lid lets sunlight in, while the insulated base traps heat and creates a microclimate that can run several degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Ventilation is key – open the lid on sunny days to prevent overheating and ensure proper airflow.

Cold frames come in various styles depending on budget, materials, and space.

Types of Cold Frames

Traditional Cold Frame
Built from wood with an angled, hinged top – this could use glass, polycarbonate, or heavy plastic. They can be permanent or portable and built with reclaimed or new materials. An old window makes a perfect lid.

Straw Bale Cold Frame
 Stack straw bales to form a frame and cover with windows or plastic sheeting. Straw provides insulation and can be reused or composted in spring.

Hot Bed
 A sunken bed filled with compostable material such as horse manure, straw, or poultry bedding, covered with soil and topped with a cold frame. As the material decomposes, it generates heat, warming the soil below.

Traditional cold frame using wood and an old window (Source:“cold-frame-in-winter” by The Art of Doing Stuff, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Straw bale cold frame (Source: “Quick coldframe, straw bales and old windows” by Irene Kightley, CC BY-SA 2.0 – Flickr)

Need a visual? Watch DIY Cold Frame • Easy How‑to Tutorial with Niki Jabbour to see an easy cold frame build using recycled materials—great for Canadian gardeners. Or for a classic approach, check out How to Build a Cold Frame | This Old House, a clear demo using a salvaged window lid.

Tips for Success

  • Timing is everything: Sow spinach, kale, or lettuce in late August or early September to harvest well into late fall – or even December, depending on snow cover.
  • Ventilation matters: Even on sunny October days, closed frames can overheat. Keep lids open when needed.
  • Spring bonus: In March or April, use your cold frame to start early crops like lettuce or radishes, or to harden off seedlings before planting.

The Quiet Magic of Cold Frames

No matter which style you choose, a cold frame is a valuable addition to any garden. It helps you garden later into the season and gives you a head start in spring.

With one simple structure, you don’t have to say goodbye to your garden when frost arrives. Picture a crisp November morning—brushing snow from the lid and harvesting fresh spinach for breakfast. That’s the quiet magic a cold frame brings to your backyard.

Banner photo “Large Cold Frame With Props” by Ofer El-Hashahar, CC BY-SA 2.0

Herbs, Perennials, Planting

Growing and using culinary herbs

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by Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

Do you want to put some ‘oomph” in your meals? Culinary herbs are the answer.

After my husband was diagnosed with heart disease, I needed to rethink some of the rich, fatty meals that were full of salt. Luckily I had two friends who had a small herb business and were willing to share their expertise with me.

Master Gardener Christine Freeburn wrote a great blog in June on herbs in containers. She gave us lots of good ideas and I will take this a step further. I will look specifically at growing and using culinary herbs in the garden. I love Chris’ idea of planting herb containers close to the kitchen for accessibility.

While many herbs will flourish in pots let’s look at perennial herbs and how to use them. Specifically, I am going to write about  more unusual herbs and what to do with them.

Most herbs are fairly easy to grow as they don’t require a rich soil and most bugs don’t bother them due to their strong smell. Several herbs such as oregano, sage and lavender have a Mediterranean origin and love hot sunny weather. There a few such as chives, parsley and lovage that prefer partial shade.  It really important to provide herbs with good drainage, they hate having wet feet. If you have heavy soil you can mix in some grit when you are planting.

Lavender loves hot sunny weather

We all know the sweet basil that can be found in pots in grocery stores but why not try dark opal, lemon or Thai basil? I love to grow calendula and use the petals in salads, fish and rice.

Dark opal basil
Calendula

Lovage is a tall herb that grows well in this area and has a strong celery flavour, useful when you forget to buy celery.

Lovage

Salad burnet is another of my favourites for  salads and flavouring butters. It has a nutty, cucumber taste.

Salad burnet

Winter savory is a perennial that has a more intense flavour than summer savory. I use it to make stuffing, vinegars and jellies.

Winter savory (source: Friviere on WikiCommons)

Sweet cicely is an interesting , tall plant with many uses.  Use the  leaves in soups and omelettes and  the seeds in fruit salads. Cook the young leaves with tart fruit such as rhubarb to reduce acidity and the need for extra sugar.

Sweet cicely

Young sorrel leaves are great in soups and salads. Lavender is an amazing herb that reduces stress but is also used by cooks in cookies, jams and jellies.

Sorrel

Of course there are many herbs that can be dried and used to make tea. These include lemon balm, anise hyssop and bergamot and there are many more. Although I was born and raised in England I am not a regular tea lover but I do like to experiment with other herbs.

Anise hyssop

I have only touched sparingly on a few of the less well known herbs and their culinary uses.

Part two of this blog (you’ll have to wait until November 17th) will cover where to buy unusual seeds and plants, taking cuttings, layering, harvesting , drying, freezing, pestos and vinegars.

More info on how to use herbs in November!

Further information

Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs

The Complete Book of Herbs (by Lesley Bremness)

How to Grow Herbs

Richters Herbs

Advice, Herbs, Vegetable Gardening

It’s Not Too Late! Try Fall Vegetable Gardening!

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by Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener In Training

In the world of vegetable gardening, the fall garden starts about mid to late summer. This is an unusual time to think about starting seedlings or putting seeds in the ground for many.

Busy summer schedules, hot dry weather and maybe even lack of interest in the garden at this point in the year make the fall garden less popular. Perhaps gardening is not a project that’s high on your list in the middle of summer vacation.

Here is why I think you should do it anyway!

  • A chance to try some cool weather crops that don’t like the heat of summer.
  • Many fall garden vegetables taste better or sweeter in the cooler weather or after a frost.
  • Tasty herbs that can be enjoyed fresh and brought inside for winter.
  • Making use of available space after harvesting a summer crop.  
  • Fewer bugs and weeds to contend with (in theory).
  • Helps the garden to look fresh and tidy and less like a shaggy jungle this time of year (if you’re anything like me).

How To Get Started

In general, you learn the first frost date for your area and count backwards based on the number of days your fall garden varieties need to reach maturity. In the Peterborough area, we can expect our first frost around the end of September or early October. This means there are about 40-50 days to work with from the day of this post (mid-August). Keep in mind, a lot of fall- friendly garden varieties can easily survive light frosts. This means you have more than enough time to grow some delicious food.

Here are some sources to help determine your growing zone’s last frost date:

Below is a list of plants that can be harvested 40-50 days from germination and tolerate light frosts. (The numbers can vary depending on the variety. Choose short season varieties if possible.)

  • Spinach
  • Lettuce (greens, not head)
  • Bok Choy
  • Cilantro
  • Turnips
  • Radishes
  • Green Onions
  • Mustard Greens
  • Swiss Chard
  • Arugula

This website has some more unique varieties to suggest:

Additionally, here are some vegetables that take longer to reach maturity but can also handle light frosts:

  • Carrots (70-80 days, depending on the variety – can be stored in the cool soil until snow comes)
  • Leeks (100-120 days – can be harvested as early as 60 days)
  • Parsley (60-70 days – these can be slow to germinate, so if you can find a plant, perfect!)

Some late season carrot seedlings popping up in the bed I recently harvested my garlic from.

You can also consider some cool weather crops with a slightly longer growing time by starting your fall garden a little earlier next year. Examples: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Potatoes.

Get Planting!

  • You can start your seeds in trays in a sunny window or sow right into the garden, outdoor pot, window box, etc.
  • Amend your soil with compost if you have it available.
  • Plant your seeds and water daily to ensure the seeds have a good chance to germinate. Decrease the frequency as sprouts appear.
  • Don’t forget to leave space to plant your garlic in the fall!

Trouble Seed Sourcing in Late Summer?

  • Use any extra seeds from spring.
  • Look for seed sales as companies look to clear out their seeds that can’t be sold next year.
  • Learn to seed save. It’s easier than you might think!
  • Allow your spring/summer plants to self seed. Ex. kale, cilantro, lettuce, spinach, etc.
Some kale seed pods from my spring plants that I can use for a fall crop.
A few trays of greens to go out into the garden for fall eating.

Good luck!

Herbs, Information

Spice It Up!

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By Carol Anderson, Master Gardener in Training

Many gardeners plant and harvest their own herbs throughout the summer either in outdoor planters, garden beds or even indoors where the aroma can be enjoyed throughout the season. And for some, fresh herbs from the garden come to an end as the growing season tapers off and fall temperatures and cool nights prevail. However, enjoying your herb bounty throughout the winter is not only possible, but easy to do. Frozen herbs can be enjoyed throughout the winter (I have used mine up to six months after freezing) in soups, casseroles, and other cooked dishes, using the same quantities in recipes as you would if they were “fresh”. However, they do tend to darken in color with freezing and as such cannot be used in some applications where raw fresh herbs are required (such as pesto and/or garnish).

To freeze herbs, the process is as simple as this:

  1. Harvest your herbs before the frost takes them from you,
  2. Ensure that they are clean (wash if unsure) and pat dry,
  3. Lay them flat (leaves and stems) on a tray,
  4. Put in freezer for one hour (“flash freeze”),
  5. Remove and place in labeled freezer bags, and
  6. Remove the air from the bags (use of a vacuum sealer may be helpful if freezing individual batches for later use.

(source: https://www.bhg.com/recipes/how-to/food-storage-safety/freezing-herbs)

Herbs that freeze well for use later in cooking include Basil, Chives, Dill, Lemongrass, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon and Thyme. An interesting option is to make an herb blend from your favourite herbs that you enjoy together. To do this, simply use 2 cups of fresh herbs and 1/3 cup of olive oil and blend thoroughly in a blender. Place the paste in an ice cube tray to freeze and then place frozen cubes in an airtight bag. Simply use the “herb paste” in any of your favourite dishes. I have used rosemary, thyme, basil, oregano, and mint together in a skillet chicken dish with fresh lemon zest, garlic and orzo pasta…simply delicious!!!

Alternatively, fresh herbs can be dried, stored and used throughout the winter as well. The process is as simple as this:

  1. Bundle together 3-6 stems and bind end with garden yarn/string (see pic above),
  2. Hang upside down in a dry and dark location,
  3. Wait 2-3 weeks for them to be completely dry (ensure stems are brittle), and
  4. Remove leaves and store in airtight jars or bags and use as per recipe as a “dry spice”.

Personally, I cannot see my summer herb bounty go to waste. It is well worth the effort to freeze, dry and/or make a paste blend…ensuring that you have fresh herbs throughout the season. Just add this activity to your fall canning party and share the wealth 😊.

Advice, Herbs, Vegetable Gardening, Websites

For Garlic Lovers Only … How to Grow and Harvest Garlic in Ontario

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By Carol Anderson, Master Gardener in Training

Unlike many of our more tender vegetable and herb favorites, garlic prefers to spend the winter “contemplating” spring from a safe and protected spot in your outdoor garden bed. And the good news is that the timing is perfect – planting garlic in October, after the first frost (or two), is ideal for ensuring a healthy crop of garlic that will be ready for harvest the following summer (usually mid to end of July).

The reason for this is that garlic is considered a “winter annual” and exposure to the cold temperatures ensures proper bulb development. The cold of winter, also known as vernalization, prompts the clove to break open after a period of dormancy. However, the garlic cloves that you plant (also called “seed stock”) must be planted to the correct:

  • Depth: to ensure that they are insulated from extreme or harsh conditions, and
  • Distance: to ensure that the stock has enough room to multiply into large and healthy buds.

What you will need:

-small trowel
-garlic seed stock (*see special note)
-leaves or hay (as mulch)
-compost (recommended)
-pen and paper
-toothpicks (optional)

Planting Guidelines:

  1. Condition your Soil. Although garlic will grow in many soil types, adding 2 inches of compost and working this into your soil is recommended. A soil that can hold nutrients and water easily (making them available to your plants) will improve your overall yield.
  2. Split the garlic bulb into the seeds while trying to keep as much of the soft shell on each of the cloves.
  3. Make a “map” of your garlic field on the ground with either toothpicks or the end of your trowel marking where each garlic “seed” will be placed. It is recommended that each seed (clove) is planted ~6” apart and ~4” deep in rows that are 10” apart. (Note: the clove should be planted to a depth that is 4 X the length of the clove – e.g. 4” for a 1” clove).
  4. Place the clove with the pointy side up in the 4” deep hole and cover gently with soil.
  5. Make a paper “map” of your garlic field so that you remember where each garlic bulb will be growing in the Spring.
  6. Cover our garlic field with 12-18” of leaf or straw mulch.

Growing and Harvesting Recommendations:

  1. In the Spring, you may need to remove or refresh the mulch. It is recommended to keep the garlic field mulched with a few inches of mulch to keep the moisture in and reduce weed growth.
  2. Using a standard garden hoe, weed frequently between the rows to uproot any early weed growth.
  3. Most garlic varieties produce a garlic “scape” – a thin curly green end of the plant. If the scape is left on the plant, energy will go to flower formation, instead of bulb growth. Remove the scape immediately after it has curled (see below) by cutting or snapping it off (see Special Note below).
  1. Harvest the garlic by using a garden fork or spade – loosen the soil 4-6 inches around the bulb and then lift the entire plant with bulb attached gently from the soil. (Note: garlic is usually ready to harvest in July when some of the leaves have begun to turn brown. Leaving them too long will allow decay. It is recommended, however, that during a moist summer a “test” is done by digging up a bulb before the leaves start to brown to avoid premature decay).
  2. Tie 5-10 garlic bulbs together in a bunch with garden twine/hemp and hang to dry/cure for 2-3 weeks in a dry well-ventilated area.
  1. Cut the dried garlic stem close to the bulb using garden cutters and remove the dried roots close to the bulb using kitchen scissors. Store the bulbs in a cold cellar or cool dark location for later use (never in the refrigerator), keeping as much of the sheath/covering of the bulb intact as possible. Garlic can be stored for up to one year in the right conditions.
  2. Enjoy!!!!

Special Notes:

–Garlic Stock: Do not use imported garlic purchased from the grocery store as this could introduce unwanted diseases into your garden. Garlic stock (or seed garlic) can be purchased from local growers near you….and the good news…once you grow your own…you will have an endless supply of “stock” acclimatized to your own growing conditions.

–Spring Planting: Garlic can be planted in the spring. However, you must keep your “stock” in cold storage prior to spring planting to ensure that the bulbs experience a prolonged cold period to stimulate flowering/bulb development.

–Garlic Scapes are not garden waste, they are delicious in salad…and they make a deliciously potent pesto!!!! Try this garlic pesto recipe out.

Sources:

Garlic Growers of Ontario
Garlic Growers Association – Toronto Garlic Festival
The Old Farmer’s Almanac

Bees & Pollinators, Birds, Herbs, Perennials

A Favourite Plant

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by Judy Bernard, Master Gardener

Agastache foeniculum, also known as Anise hyssop, is an herb belonging to the mint family. It was originally purchased by me as a garden thriller. It has since become a workhorse for my garden. The mother plant of the ones I now have was planted in my garden in Havelock – the “Blue Fortune” cultivar.

The seeds of the ones I have now arrived in my new garden in Norwood in the compost I brought from my old place. This delightful aromatic native plant is tolerant of a wide range of soils, drought tolerant once established, deer resistant and will do well in sun to part shade.

Although it self seeds very readily, it is easily pulled when small. The plant will grow 2-3” tall with a branching habit. The flowers are produced on the tips of the branches starting in early July. Some are still flowering in mid September. As far as it’s attraction to pollinators is concerned; it is a bee magnet. It also doesn’t seem to attract insect pests or diseases.

Anise hyssop in my garden (photo taken September 13th 2021)

Since I had so many seedlings coming up all over my garden, I decided to let them develop and act as filler plants until I had something else coming along or decided to use them elsewhere. I have since used them as a border for some of my flower beds next to my neighbour’s property.

Others I use as specimen plant for some of my beds and some others next to my vegetables to attract pollinators. For me, this is one of the most enjoyable and versatile plants in my garden.

More information

Herbs, Information

Harvesting Herbs for the Winter

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By Sharleen Pratt, Master Gardener

Author’s potted herbs– sage, parsley, rosemary & thyme

Most would agree that fresh herbs taste better than dried.  There is no need to forego the companionship of fresh herbs once winter sets in.  You can make good use of the herbs you are growing in your garden by bringing them into your homes, potting them up and putting them in a sunny window.  If this isn’t possible, you can consider drying which concentrates and preserves the flavouring oils contained in the leaves.  Read below for some of the many options you might consider as our summer months draw to an end.

MOVING HERBS INDOORS

Many herbs can be brought indoors and with proper care, survive the winter months.  They need ample light, even moisture and moderate temperatures.  Remember to pot up the herbs in your garden early.  Do not wait until frost is imminent, because herbs are best if gradually acclimatized to the indoor environment, especially to the lower light conditions. Use a quality potting mixture and a good sized pot.  Prune back the foliage and roots if necessary.  You will get some wilting of leaves and some may die, but you should see some new growth soon.  Remove any dying leaves as they turn yellow.  It’s also a good practice to dip your plants in an insecticidal soap solution before moving them indoors to guard against aphids and spider mites.  If you have the time, gradually move your plants into shadier locations and eventually indoors to your sunniest window.

I have had good success with bringing in my rosemary plant and it remains quite happy in my kitchen window.  I do occasionally mist the leaves and I am lucky to have a south facing window.

I take cuttings from my basil and put the cut stem in water.  Be sure to do this before the cold as basil can die overnight.  Once there are some tiny roots, transfer it to a pot with some good quality soil.  It will require five or six hours of direct light.

Author’s basil cuttings

AIR DRYING

The simplest way to preserve herbs is by air drying, which usually takes two to three weeks.  Tie large leafy-stemmed herbs with rubber bands into loose bundles and hang them in a room or closet with good cross air circulation. It is best to gather the leaves in the early morning after the dew has evaporated. They should feel crisp when fully dry.

You can also spread the herbs over a screen or netting in a dark ventilated area, but you must be sure they are completely dry before storing to avoid any mould.

Photo credit: Amy Kimball, Herbal Houseplants

DEHYDRATOR

My neighbour had a very old dehydrator that hadn’t been used in years.  As has happened in this pandemic, she pulled it out of her cupboard and began to use it.  I had an abundance of basil which I gave to her.  She put it in her dehydrator and within a few hours I had wonderful dried basil that is much greener and fresher than anything I would get at the store.

You can also set your oven to 175 degrees and lay the herbs on cookie sheets in a single layer.  Depending on the herb, this can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours.  Be sure to check every 30 minutes since herbs all dry at different rates.  Allow to cool completely before crumbling.

MICROWAVE

Microwave ovens preserve the colour and flavour of herbs, but can only handle small amounts at a time.  Place the herbs on a paper towel in a single layer and microwave using 30 second intervals. You may have to experiment as temperatures of microwaves tend to be different.  Let them cool completely before storing.  I’m not a huge fan of this method as I don’t find the microwave heats evenly and it is just too fiddly for me.

STORING DRIED HERBS

They can be stored in airtight containers away from heat, light and moisture. It is best to use glass or metal tins with tight fitting lids.  Plastic breathes and will allow the herbs to absorb moisture.

Herbs can also be stored in the freezer.  I have had great success with parsley and coriander.  I store the leaves in an airtight ziploc bag and find it easy to take out what I need for soups, etc.

Another method would be to chop fresh-cut herbs and evenly spread on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and place in the freezer for several hours.  Pack the frozen herbs in small containers, label and date the containers and keep frozen for 6 to 8 months. 

Or, you could freeze finally chopped herbs in stock or water for use in stews or soups.  This can be done in ice-cube trays.  Remove the frozen cubes and store in a ziploc bag.

Richters Herbs website has lots of information about the preservation and storing of herbs.

Garden Design, Herbs, Information, Links, Planting, Soil, Websites, Weed Control

Permaculture: Where do I start?

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By Suzanne Seryck, Master Gardener

So what do gardeners do in the winter? Once we’ve read all our seed magazines and compiled our purchasing lists, or designed new or changes to existing perennial beds, or decided on our vegetable crop rotation for the upcoming season, or read a new gardening book, or watched some gardening videos or TED talks, or found ourselves in the middle of taking a gardening course, what next? Personally, once I’ve exhausted all these possibilities, I tend to reread my favourite gardening books. I have an incredibly bad memory and find it really helps me when I reread the same books over and over; hoping eventually something will sink in. My books to reread this year are both permaculture-related: Toby Hemingway’s “Gaia’s Garden” and Rosemary Morrow’s “Earth User’s Guide to Permaculture”.

When I first became interested in permaculture a number of years ago, I started reading books and watching videos by the two founders, Australians Bill Mollison and David Holmgren. The concept, ethics, and principles resonated with me, but I have to admit that I struggled based on the literature available at that time, to understand how to translate this into my own Canadian garden. It was not until a couple of years later that I attended a couple of local permaculture design courses and read the book by Toby Hemingway who focuses on North American gardens, that I felt confident enough to bring some of those concepts and methods into my home garden

As I mentioned in my last blog, permaculture is a design system, a set of guidelines, principles and practices for sustainable living and land use, working with nature in a continuous cycle that benefits both people and wildlife. As with anything new or overwhelming, it is easy to be deterred by the big picture.  Instead, focus on smaller ideas or concepts. If you start implementing smaller more manageable tasks, it will give you confidence to tackle the larger concepts.

The following are a few easy-to-implement permaculture techniques to get you started:

  1. Sheet mulching. This was actually the first group activity I performed in my first design course.  It can also be called lasagna gardening. Permaculture encompasses a no-dig philosophy focusing on building soil life. Sheet mulching allows you to create new beds whilst eliminating weeds and building up the health of the soil. It is also a lot healthier on your back. You simply lay a heavy layer of newspaper or cardboard over the area and top it with 12 inches or so of organic mulch.
  2. Keyhole garden beds. Keyhole beds are often used in permaculture because they maximize use of space, whilst building soil fertility.  They decrease irrigation needs and are easy to plant, harvest and maintain. The bed can be either raised or not, and is often created in a circular pattern which decreases the space required for paths and increases space for plants. This type of bed is most often used for growing herbs & vegetables and because of the circular design, plants with different growing requirements can be planted together often creating different microclimates. For more information: https://permaculturefoodforest.wordpress.com/2016/04/14/keyhole-gardens/
  3. Creating gardening communities or guilds. In permaculture, a guild can be defined as a grouping of plants, trees, animals and insects that work together protecting their health, habitat and productivity. Probably one of the most familiar guilds is the Three Sisters Guild in which squash, corn and beans are grown together; each one supporting and benefiting the others. The beans grow up the corn and provide nitrogen, whilst the squash mulches and covers the soil. In my last garden, I grew apple tree guilds, surrounding each apple tree with daffodils in the spring (deter predators from chewing bark), comfrey and yarrow, and herbs such as dill & fennel along with chives & onions.
    Apple tree guild in spring
    Apple tree guild in summer
  4. Multiple stories or forest gardens. As an avid gardener and someone who has difficulty saying ‘enough is enough’ when it comes to plants–and also the owner of a small city garden–this technique is one I am especially interested in. The idea is that a garden can have multiple stories or layers; from a low herb or ground cover layer up to perennials, shrubs, small trees and finally the canopy trees. The plants in each layer combine and support each other to create and maintain a healthy ecosystem.

seryck1
Vegetable garden incorporating annuals and perennials

Permaculture is much more than the simple examples I have given.  It can encompass everything from designing landscapes and buildings, to water and waste management. The benefits for me include enriching the land, feeding and providing habitat, growing food for my family, and giving me somewhere to unwind and feel good about life. However, I am omitting one very important benefit for myself–by incorporating some permaculture practices into my garden, the garden tends to look after itself much more with less interference and work for me!

Annuals, Bulbs, Dreams, Herbs, Native Plants, Perennials, Seeds, Vegetable Gardening, Websites

Thank goodness the seed catalogues have arrived…

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

“Thank goodness the seed catalogues have arrived… I was about to start cleaning my house!”

It starts with the dream.

There’s no better time than now to  dive into a good seed catalogue and start planning for the upcoming growing season. Seed catalogues can be a great resource for bulbs and unique seeds, and offer a far bigger selection than what you can find in your local garden centre. You’ll find inspiration and will likely discover new plants that you must have in your 2020 garden.

You’ll be the most successful if you pick the seed companies that are closest to where you live, or in the same growing region as you. However, you can still have success ordering from a company farther away, but you’ll have to be careful not to order a plant that isn’t in your growing zone.

Below are some popular seed companies from across Canada, with some that are also in close proximity to the Peterborough, ON, area.

Florabunda Seeds

Whether you are an avid gardener or just beginning to get your hands dirty, Florabunda Seeds in Keene, ON, has a wide variety of heirloom and unusual flower, vegetable and herb seeds. They pride themselves in their untreated, non-GMO, and non-Hybrid offerings. They package generously by measurement and not by seed count.  Download catalogue.  Request a catalogue.

OSC Seeds

OSC Seeds from Kitchener, ON, features a selection of high-quality seed packets, perfectly suited for the Canadian climate and ready for planting in your garden. Their full line of products includes 30 herbs, 250 vegetables, 240 annuals and 100 perennials & biennials. Request a free catalogue

William Dam Seeds

William Dam Seeds is a family-run company located just outside of Dundas, Ontario, supplying small farmers and gardeners in Canada with seed for food, flowers and soil building. They are proud to offer a varied catalogue of many different seed varieties that are not chemically treated, and some of the seeds are certified organic as well. You can download their online catalogue, or request a mailed copy via their contact page.

Natural Seed Bank

Natural Seed Bank is an online retailer of garden seeds. They sell various organic and untreated garden seeds. Located in Port Hope, Ontario, Natural Seed Bank is 100 percent Canadian owned and operated. All of their seeds are non-GMO and untreated, and many selections are organic. They’re committed to never selling GMO products.

Richters

Richters is your go-to for everything herbal. Located in Goodwood, Ontario, Richters has been growing and selling herbs since 1969. Check out their online catalogue or request a copy to be mailed out.  Online catalogue.  Request a catalogue.

Veseys

Veseys is one of the premier seed, bulb and garden supply sites in North America. Located on Prince Edward Island, Veseys has 75 years of history providing products, services, and advice to gardeners.  Be sure to head over and subscribe for your free catalogue. They put on many fantastic specials, have quality products and outstanding customer service. Request a catalogue.

Resources

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