By Carol Anderson, Master Gardener in Training

Have you ever looked out at your lawn and wondered why it is not as lush and green as the neighbors? Have you tried seeding and fertilizing your lawn but are still unhappy with the results? Here are some considerations that may help you create a lawn management plan that is successful in helping you achieve what you are looking for. Keep in mind that a healthy thick lawn will reduce your lawn susceptibility to pests and disease…so keep it healthy!  And if you suspect an insect infestation such as chinch bugs (see Figure 1), web worms or grubs, you must endeavor to address this first. Similarly, a lawn with a heavy weed infestation requires special treatment, perhaps even a full lawn “renovation”, prior to a lawn management plan being initiated.

Figure 1. Chinch bug damage (https://www.ontario.ca/page/hairy-chinch-bugs-lawns)

Lawn Management Plan:

Watering: One of the most misunderstood, yet critical, elements of any lawn management plan is ensuring that your lawn receives the proper amount of water. A specific watering schedule cannot be provided given that each lawn is subject to different environmental conditions impacting its’ watering requirements. For example, the lawns facing south/west will dry out very quickly, depending upon the amount of shade. In contrast, lawns facing north/east will tend to hold moisture much longer and will require less frequent watering.  The general rule of thumb is that a lawn typically requires about 1” (30cm or 300mm) of water per week to stay healthy. If there is sufficient rainfall and overcast days, no watering may be required 😊. However, if you determine that watering is required (soil feels dry several inches below grade), the following guidelines should be followed:

1.           Sod should not be watered in the middle of the day. Sunlight on a freshly watered lawn will burn the grass blades as the water droplets act as a magnifying glass for the suns’ rays. Sod is best watered in the early morning. Watering grass at night leads to infestations with grubs and other sod loving parasites and can facilitate fungus spores to develop.

2.           It is important to water your lawn deeply and less frequently. Why? It is very important to encourage grass to grow roots that are deep in the soil. Frequent light watering encourages superficial roots to develop and eventually the creation of grass that is not drought tolerant. A good rule of thumb…a sprinkler set for 30 minutes should provide the necessary moisture to thoroughly wet the sod 4-6” below the surface.

3.           Keep in mind…once your lawn is beginning to turn brown…it is too late to start watering it!! Try to stay on top of watering and watch the weather…hopefully mother nature will help you out!

Mowing and “Grass-cycling”: Under normal conditions, an established lawn should be mowed with the blades at a height of 2½ – 3” with sharp mower blades.  For many, this feels too long. However, removing too much of the grass blade puts the lawn into a state of stress making it susceptible to disease and insect infestations.  Under normal circumstances, grass clippings can be mulched and left on the lawn (grass-cycling) as a source of additional nutrients, protection from dehydration and to attract earthworms that will naturally improve both aeration and water filtration. However, in the Spring IF the grass is heavy with moisture, and the lawn is growing quickly, you may wish to remove grass clippings.

Dethatching (deep raking): A lawn with a high percentage of fescue grass will benefit from dethatching – the removal of a thick layer of dead grass and roots that have not decomposed. This should be done if thatch is present and before aeration and topdressing the lawn.

Aeration & Topdressing and “Grass-cycling”: Grass needs nutrients and your lawn might benefit from adding a thin layer of top-dressing (compost) on the surface, particularly if the soil has a lot of clay. A lawn that has a large amount of clay will need to be top-dressed regularly with compost to provide both a steady supply of nutrients, and to improve the soil texture and water/nutrient holding capacity over time. This can be done in the spring and fall. Aerating with a core aerator, topdressing with compost and then raking will break up the cores and improve the penetration of the compost into the soil.  

Fertilization: To maintain healthy lawns, 1.5-2.0kg/100m2 of nitrogen is recommended. If using a slow-release fertilizer, it can be applied twice in the growing season (spring, late summer/early fall), with a third application of specially formulated “winter” fertilizer in late fall. Keep in mind that grass grown in the shade requires ~ 50% less nitrogen than a lawn in the sun, so it is advisable to reduce the fertilization rate by one half in the shady areas of the lawn.

Overseeding: If your lawn could benefit from thickening, overseeding should be done in the late summer/early fall when there is less competition, and the roots can take hold.

In the end, if you desire a beautiful and lush lawn, with a little bit of work and a good management plan, you can achieve this. If your lawn is suffering from a significant weed infestation, or poor soil, you may require a full “renovation” – stay tuned for my next in the series to learn about what to do!