Growing Wilderness in the United Kingdom

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

This autumn, I’ve had the incredible experience of doing a teaching exchange at Hartpury University in Gloucestershire, England.  In between teaching, hiking, and bird banding, I was able to cycle over 300 miles of beautiful English country lanes, stopping at castles, nature reserves, and some incredible gardens along the way.

Hidcote Manor

Walking through the gates of Hidcote Manor in the Cotswolds, it is easy to feel as though you’ve stepped into a painting. The clipped hedges, winding paths, and carefully designed garden rooms are alive with the hum of pollinators and the flutter of birds. Down the road at Sudeley Castle, wildflower meadows are stitched into the landscape, part of a growing movement in the UK to “rewild” gardens, restore soils through regenerative farming practices, and build habitats that bring nature (yes, hedgehogs!) back into cultivated spaces.  Interactive songbird huts, topiary animals, and forest school playforts do their best to situate nature at the heart for all ages.

Hidcote Manor

As a Conservation Biologist, this experience has offered very good perspective.  In Britain, every hedge, flower border, and restored meadow is a choice made against the backdrop of land pressure. With centuries of agricultural intensification and urban sprawl, biodiversity has been whittled down and what is left is very small, isolated, and still heavily managed by humans.  The birds that flit in the hedgerows, the butterflies in the long grasses, and the rare orchids tucked into meadow corners are treasures precisely because they are fragile—and rare.

Hidcote Manor

This sense of loss combined with preciousness shapes the way the British approach gardening: nature is folded into design not as ornament but as necessity. Even the grandest estates now showcase pollinator gardens, bird-friendly planting, and soil-friendly techniques that acknowledge the land’s limits.  My teaching partner in the department here summed this up pithily when she said: “We don’t conserve wilderness, we have to grow it alongside our tomatoes.” 

Hidcode Manor

This past summer, much of Britain faced a severe drought. Gardens once lush with green lawns and blooming perennials turned brittle and brown, testing the resilience of even the most historic estates. For visitors, it was a stark reminder that climate change is rewriting the rules of gardening everywhere. Those manicured, clipped expanses of green that once symbolized order and wealth are now increasingly viewed as unsustainable. Pressure is mounting for landowners to let go of the perfect lawn and instead embrace wilder, woodier landscapes that store carbon, provide shade, and create habitat for wildlife. What was once considered unruly is being reimagined as resilience—an acceptance that in the face of climate change, neatness cannot take precedence over nature.

For Canadians, the contrast is striking. Canada is a country of seeming abundance: boreal forests that stretch for thousands of kilometers, wetlands that teem with migratory birds, and prairies that still hold echoes of bison herds. Diversity here can feel endless, and because of that, sometimes it is taken for granted.  

Yet, abundance should not breed complacency. Canada faces its own ecological crises—loss of grasslands, declining pollinator populations, and habitat fragmentation in every province. There is much to learn from Britain’s careful stewardship of what little remains, especially in recognizing that a garden is not just personal space, but part of a shared ecological fabric.

Standing between the flower borders of Hidcote and the meadows of Sudeley, the lesson is clear. British gardens show how intentionality can transform even limited landscapes into havens of biodiversity, while Canadian gardens remind us of the wealth we still have—and the responsibility to protect it. In both places, the garden is more than a private retreat. It is a living classroom, teaching us how to care for what is precious, whether rare or abundant, in a changing world.

Thom Luloff is a Professor of Conservation Biology at Fleming College.

The Price of Growth: How Plant Propagation Shapes Plant Prices

By Brandi McNeely, Master Gardener in Training

While shopping for plants at my local big box store recently, I came across a beautiful Monstera Thai Constellation at a reasonable price. If you’re a plant collector like me, you might think, that’s awesome! If you’re not, you might ask, what’s a Thai Constellation, and what’s the big deal?

Serious plant collectors can tell you what’s trending in the market and the crazy prices these plants sell for. Thai constellations are a natural sport of standard Monsteras, with showy variegated leaves (whereas the standard plant is solid green).

In the last few years, specimens have been selling for hundreds of dollars in specialty shops – but now they are readily available in large quantities at relatively low prices in big box stores. Why the change? To understand this, you need to understand propagation techniques.

Seed Starting

When you purchase your annual flowering plants in the spring, chances are they were started from seed at the nursery. Many plants (marigolds, zinnias, and celosia) are easy to start from seed and grow quickly, making seed starting a cost effective method of propagation for nurseries. So easy in fact, that many people start their own at home using this same method.

Division

Some plants are propagated using division. Think of your garden in the Spring when hostas begin popping up. You can use a spade to cut the plant in two, instantly doubling your plants. Some tropical plants are propagated using this method, including snake plants and calathea.

Grafting

Grafting is the horticultural technique of joining two different plants to grow together as one. When you purchase a Honeycrisp apple tree from a garden center, the tree is a Honeycrisp stem (scion) grafted onto the rootstock of another apple variety. Honeycrisp won’t grow true to seed and must be grafted in order to produce true fruit.

Cuttings

Have you ever cut a stem from a house plant and rooted it in water on a windowsill? Nurseries use this technique on a much larger scale. Using stem cuttings and growing medium, nurseries can produce large quantities of plants for sale (although this does require time to allow the cuttings to grow into small plants). Pothos are a great example of plants that are easily propagated through stem cuttings.

Tissue Culture

This brings us back to the Thai Constellation. Monsteras are easily
propagated through stem cuttings, but growing one variegated offshoot
for stem cuttings takes time. Tissue culture is a relatively new practice in the houseplant industry, where plant tissue is grown in a nutrient rich medium to produce a large volume of plants in a laboratory setting. These plants are a clone of the mother plant, ensuring consistent characteristics within large scale production. Tissue culture can produce plants on a large scale fairly quickly, driving down the cost of new, rare variations.

One plant can take years to grow into a small, steady supply of plants. Low supply and high demand results in high prices for buyers.

With advancements in propagation methods like tissue culture, the once-exclusive world of rare plants is becoming more accessible to everyday plant lovers. What was once only available to collectors willing to pay top dollar can now be found in the garden section of your local store.

Understanding how propagation influences both supply and cost helps explain market trends and reminds us that behind every “rare” plant, there’s often a bit of science making it possible for more people to enjoy its beauty.

Growing and Using Culinary Herbs part 2

By Rachel Burrows, Master Gardener

Growing and Using Culinary Herbs part 1 is from August 2025.

Let’s look at where to get herb seeds and plants.

Richters in Goodwood is one of the largest herb growers in North America. You can learn a lot from just reading their extensive catalogue.  Their greenhouses are well worth a visit and Goodwood is only about an hour’s drive from Peterborough. They carry dried herbs as well as plants and seeds. Richters is open year round; check their website for days and hours. Many local nurseries carry a good selection of seeds and plants.

Start your seeds under lights in February/March e.g. basil, sage, thyme, lovage and harden them off slowly. You can direct seed outdoors once the soil is warm enough. Parsley seeds have a hard coating and it is a good idea to soak them overnight first. You will need to sow coriander seeds every month if you want a continuous supply of cilantro leaves.

Many herbs can be successfully propagated by taking hardwood cuttings. Rosemary works well this way if you take the cuttings in mid summer to mid fall. Take the cutting just below a node, dip it in hormone powder and insert several cuttings into a soilless mix. Cover with a plastic bag and open every few days to clear some of the moisture. They will root in 4 – 6 weeks.

Lots of herbs benefit from dividing in the spring. Good candidates are parsley, chives, lemon balm, oregano and thymes. Woody herbs such as sage and thymes can be layered by pegging a stem into the soil. Check for roots in a month or so and once rooted they can be cut from the mother plant and replanted.

Many perennial herbs such as lavender, hyssop and oregano can be lightly pruned in the fall and harder in the spring. I don’t prune sage until after it has finished flowering as the bees  love the purple flowers.

Picking the growing tips frequently encourages fresh new growth and gives you lots of herbs for cooking. Lovage and sorrel should be cut back hard after flowering to encourage new bushy growth. The best time to harvest for peak flavour is in the morning before the essential oils have evaporated. Leaves should be young and before the plant flowers.

There are several options to preserve your herbs for culinary use. Herbs such as basil, chives, chervil and parsley work well finely chopped and put in ice cube trays with a little olive oil or water. Freeze and use them to pop into stews and soups.

If you have a warm, dark, well ventilated space , tie the herbs loosely and hang upside down. Larger leaves can be dried on a mesh screen. Dehydrators are great or you can use a microwave on a low setting. Once thoroughly dry, store in labelled glass or ceramic containers away from the light.

Garlic dill pickles are easy to make and make great gifts. Pestos and vinegars are a great way to use your herbs. Vinegars are simple  to make and tarragon, thyme and basil are especially good and will last a long time. I use herbal vinegars for salad dressings and to pep up soups and stews.

Herbal butters are straight forward  to make but give a real lift to vegetables, grilled meat, stuffings, or pasta. Finely chop 4 to 5 tablespoons of fresh herbs to 8 oz of softened butter and blend well. Place in cling film and form into a long rectangle. Chill, cut into lengths and wrap tightly in foil, label and freeze. You can then slice off any amount that you want.

I have just touched on the many wonderful culinary herbs that you can grow. Have fun, experiment and enjoy the wonderful smells and tastes of fresh herbs.

Further information:

Richters   www.richters.com

Taste of Home  www.tasteofhome.com

The Complete Book of Herbs – Lesley Bremner

Where’s the Flare?

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

Let’s talk root flares on trees.  The root flare is the part of the tree where the trunk turns into the roots and the root flare needs to be at the soil surface. 

Photo:  Root flare of a young Ironwood tree, Ostrya virginiana in author’s garden.

People are often counseled that plants should be planted in the ground at the same level they were planted in the pot.  In my tree and shrub planting experience I have usually found the root flare submerged in the potting medium.  If I planted at this same level, it would mean their roots would be buried too deeply.  Roots need oxygen and when they don’t get enough, they are not efficient at taking up water or nutrients which thereby starves the rest of the plant.  Some trees can struggle along for a number of years but extra soil on top of fine roots can mean an early death sentence for your tree.  It gives some truth to the adage “plant it high it won’t die, plant it low, it won’t grow”.

Photo:  This shrub’s root flare was buried approximately 9 cm in potting medium.

When I bring home a woody plant, I like to get the potting medium off the roots by root washing the root ball.  Root washing is a process very well described by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott.  https://gardenprofessors.com/why-root-washing-is-important-an-illustrated-cautionary-tale/  It is helpful to have a dormant plant (although I don’t always practice what I preach) and to do this on a cool day in the shade.  I put the root ball in my wheelbarrow and use the hose to rinse/blast the potting medium off.   Sometimes this can take quite a while!  Then I look at the root ball to establish where the root flare is and to also check for and remove problematic circling and adventitious roots (roots that grow from non-root plant tissues such as stems).  When planting I backfill with the soil removed from the planting hole and mulch with a wood chip mulch.  It is best not to mulch with sheet mulching like cardboard or paper and never, never, never with landscape fabric.

Providing the best planting situation for your new tree or shrub will hopefully promote the best growth possible.

Photo: Picture of a perfect flare on a deciduous tree.

Resource

Chalker-Scott, L.  How Plants Work (2015).  Timber Press Inc, Portland, Oregon.

All photos by Lois Scott

The Five Stages of November Gardening: From Denial to Hibernation

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

November can be a odd and awkward time for gardeners. The blooms of summer are long gone, and even the hardiest plants are starting to fade. As we temporarily pack up our tools for winter, many of us go through something like the five stages of grief—only with more dirt under our fingernails than we usually have when grieving.

1. Denial
It starts with pretending the frost and snow aren’t really that bad. You convince yourself that a touch of frost won’t actually kill your tomatoes and that they’ll bounce back by noon when they get a bit warmer. Spoiler: They won’t.

2. Anger
Then comes the frustration. Why did you forget to cover the basil? Why didn’t the weather app warn you about that early freeze? You glare at the sky, muttering about how unfair it all is, and plan to move south at the earliest opportunity.

3. Bargaining
You start making deals with nature: “If I bring the pots inside, maybe they’ll survive.” You shuffle plants indoors, rearranging windowsills in a desperate act of hope with space in the south window at a serious premium. You conveniently forget that most plants won’t actually survive inside of our dry as a desert homes—but you’ve gotta try, right?

4. Mulching
Reality sets in, and you finally take action. You clean up the garden beds (leaving flower stalks for our nesting insects, of course), spread mulch, finally finish planting those tulip bulbs, and then tuck everything in for winter. The tools have been oiled and the mushy hosta leaves are in the composter, just in time for the fluffy stuff to start falling. It’s a quiet, grounding ritual—part farewell, part promise to return but mostly it’s acceptance of our fate as Canadians in a four season climate.

5. Hibernation
At last, peace. You sip tea by the window, dream over seed catalogs, and plan next year’s garden. November reminds us that rest is part of the growing cycle too—and even gardeners need a little dormancy.

Toxic Indoor Plants and Your Pets: A Guide

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

While I like to think of myself as a decent outdoor gardener, the same cannot be said of my indoor houseplant expertise.

However, I have worked hard at it over the years and we’ve had some lovely Clivia, various cactus, some Pothos, a Norfolk Island pine, and a goldfish plant (Columnea gloriosa) in my office at various times.

My pre-2018 houseplants (my Mum’s cat Cleo showed no interest at all)

This was pre-2018, when my indoor kitties had no interest in my houseplants, and no nibbles were had.

That all changed when these two arrived in October 2018 – meet Lulu and Roxy.

Meet Lulu and Roxy – our tuxedo and ginger and white female cats (respectively).

While I love both of them, Lulu’s favourite activities are digging in the dirt and chewing on plants. Roxy just likes to rub up against them, knock them over and then maybe have a nibble.

While indoor plants can add beauty and life to your home, it’s essential to be aware of their potential toxicity to our furry friends. Certain plants can be harmful or even fatal to pets, especially cats and dogs. Understanding which plants are safe and which to avoid is crucial for ensuring a pet-friendly environment.

Many common indoor plants are toxic to pets, such as Pothos (Devil’s Ivy), which causes vomiting and oral irritation in cats and dogs, lilies (which are particularly dangerous for cats) and sago palms, which are extremely toxic, especially to dogs, causing severe liver damage. The Ontario SPCA has a list of the 17 most poisonous plants, but it’s not an exhaustive list.

If you suspect your pet has ingested a toxic plant, it’s best to consult a veterinarian immediately. Look for signs such as difficulty breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, or lethargy. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.

Reliable Resources on Plant Toxicity for Pet Owners

Here are some reputable websites offering advice on pet safety and plant toxicity:

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals’ (ASPCA’s) Animal Poison Control Center
A comprehensive and excellent searchable list of toxic and non-toxic plants.

Pet Poison Helpline Canada
Assistance for pet owners who suspect poisoning, including plant toxicity resources (there is a cost).

PetMD
Plants poisonous to cats
Plants poisonous to dogs
Detailed information on animal health and safety, including plant toxicity.

So What Plants Can I Have In My House?

If you’re looking to enhance your home with pet-friendly plants, here are a few options for you to consider. Personally, I find the palms, ferns and spider plants still tough to have in our house because I think our cats will gravitate to anything that is grass-like.

Unfortunately if your cat or dog is a habitual nibbler, you might be better off without houseplants altogether. We love our kitties more than we love our houseplants. For now I’ll just stick to my Phalaenopsis orchids and my various seasonal cactus and focus my gardening efforts on the outside of our house.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
African Violet  (Saintpaulia ionantha)
Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)
Orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.)
Easter, Christmas or Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera or Rhipsalidopsi spp.)
Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae)      
Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea seifrizii)
Sword/Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
Nerve Plant (Fittonia)   
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Hoya (Hoya carnosa)   
Gerber Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii)         
Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)
Calathea (Calathea spp.)
Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa)
Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
Friendship Plant (Pilea involucrata)

Also have a look at this Laidback Gardener post.

Yes, You Can Still Plant Tulips!

By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

Unlike daffodils, which should be in the ground by Thanksgiving, tulip bulbs can be planted anytime from September until when the ground freezes in December. When you plant later in the season, squirrels are not as active, so may not discover and dig up your bulbs.

Planting in circles or groups rather than in a straight line is more pleasing to the eye.  Plant tulips in well drained soil at least 6-8 inches deep and 2-3 inches apart.

Hen manure is a good fertilizer and it will also deter squirrels. For 5 or 6 bulbs, dig your hole (digging that 8” deep will also deter squirrels), put in a couple tablespoons of fertilizer in the hole, place bulbs (one in middle with the rest around), cover with soil, pat firmly, sprinkle more fertilizer, cover bare earth with leaves or mulch (to disguise it from squirrels) and water thoroughly.

You can also use heavy wire to cover the area to keep squirrels from digging or place a board or rock over the area, removing it when the ground has frozen.

After your flowers fade in spring, you can cut back the flower stem but let the leaves die back naturally. This allows photosynthesis to continue, giving food back into the bulb so it will produce again the next year. Plant perennials close by so they emerge and hide the tulip leaves as they decline.

There are thousands of different tulip varieties in many colours, shapes and sizes. Below is a list of some of the main tulip varieties with their characteristics.  

NOTE: Don’t forget our first ever Peterborough Master Gardener Spring Blooming Bulb sale still has tulips (and other beautiful spring bulbs) available. Click here for more information and to order! Pickup is in Peterborough.

Single early tulip

Single Early     

  • blooms in cooler weather with daffodils              
  • cup shape with 6 petals
  • average height of 10-18 inches
  • live for 3-4 years
Single late tulip

Single Late

  • also called Cottage tulip
  • tallest varieties standing 18-30 inches tall          
  • bloom when temperatures warm           
  • long lasting blooms but shorter life
Double early tulip
Double late tulip

Double Early and Late

  • also known as Peony tulips because of their multi-petaled structure       
  • can be early or late varieties     
  • blooms can be 6 inches on 10-16 inch stems     
  • sensitive to rain and may flop
  • shorter lived type
Darwin hybrid tulip

Darwin Hybrid

  • cross between Fosteriana and late blooming single tulips
  • tall sturdy stems 22 to 34 inches                       
  • large blooms    
  • perform year after year
Triumph tulip

Triumph

  • sturdy stemmed variety growing 16 to 24 inches tall       
  • cross between single early and Darwin  
  • blooms mid season      
  • edges on petals are often a different colour        
Parrot tulip

Parrot

  • vibrant colours and feathery or ruffled petals      
  • long stems and large blooms make them tend to be more delicate          
  • tend to be later blooming
  • not long lived, but showy
Fringed tulip

Fringed

  • also known as Crispii tulips       
  • nice frilly edges which can sometimes contrast with rest of bloom           
  • often late bloomers
  • will only live a few years
Fosteriana tulip

Fosteriana

  • also known as Emperor tulips    
  • early to mid season bloomer with big blooms and large narrow leaves     
  • perform year after year 
Greigii tulip

Greigii

  • also known as Turkestan tulips 
  • big colourful flowers tend to be on shorter stems
  • mid season bloomer     
  • leaves are streaked or spotted maroon  
  • perform year after year
Kaufmanniana tulip

Kaufmanniana

  • early to mid season blooming time        
  • blooms resemble waterlilies as they tend to open float in bright sunlight  
  • usually short stemmed, about 6 to 10 inches tall
  • perform year after year 
Lily flower tulip

Lily Flower

  • late blooming   
  • long pointed petals which arch outwards
  • 14 to 30 inches tall
Viridiflora tulip

Viridiflora

  • known as a green tulip for the green markings on the petals       
  • late season but long blooming
  • 16 to 24 inches tall
Rembrandt tulip

Rembrandt

  • variegated petals in deep purple or reddish streaks                    
  • 18 to 26 inches tall       
  • original cultivar no longer available, but you may find Rembrandt type
Species tulip

Species

  • known as botanical
  • smaller and shorter but prolific  
  • naturalize well  
  • perform year after year
  • squirrels do not dig or eat
  • (If you’ve read this far, this is my favourite tulip…long lived, squirrel-proof, multiply well)

References

Toronto Master Gardeners Gardening Guide for Growing Tulips

Best Tulips Guide

What’s Still Feeding Pollinators in Your Fall Garden?

by Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

It has been a warm start to the fall season, but despite a little more frequent rain in September, the summer drought has continued here north of Peterborough in my 4b Plant Hardiness Zone garden. My soil is also sandy and dry. So what could still be blooming and feeding our most effective pollinators, the native bumble bees?

Although bumble bees are more active in spring and summer, they still need nectar and pollen in fall because the gynes, unmated females that will become next year’s new queen bees if fertilized, are mating and then must build up fat reserves and find a place to overwinter (The Xerces Society 2025). At this time of year you may see bumble bees sleeping on flowers in the morning, especially after a cold night or overnight rainfall. These are mostly the solitary male bumble bees that sleep outdoors. They are searching for a mate, and then they will die. Bad weather may also force female bumble bees to sleep outdoors, but their preference is to return to the hive at night (St. John 2023).

Here are a few drought-hardy native species that were still blooming and supporting pollinators in my garden on October 10th. All are resistant to deer. Sun, soil and moisture requirements, height, bloom colour and bloom time are noted for each.

Smooth Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)

Full sun – light shade; Sand, loam, clay; Dry to Medium; 4 feet tall; Lavender to light blue; September – October

Smooth Aster has very frost-hardy flowers that often bloom into early November. The lavender to light blue flowers provide a lavish display. It has an upright form, is salt tolerant, and has the ability to survive drought.

Given that it blooms into early November, Smooth Aster is an important food source for late season bumble bees. The backdrop of Sugar Maple in full fall colour contrasts nicely with its lavender blooms.

New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)

Full sun – Part sun; Sand, loam, clay; Moist-average soil; Tolerates dry soil but may look scraggly; 2-5 feet tall; Purple, pink; August – October

New England Aster is another late bloomer, often lasting until it is hit by a few hard frosts (Booth nd). It is a clumping perennial that can be divided every 3-5 years and also “politely” seeds into garden gaps. To keep it from flopping over in fertile soils, it can be “Chelsea-chopped” in mid-June to restrict its height. It is an important nectar plant for migrating Monarch butterflies, as well as a larval host for 5 butterflies and more than 40 moth species (Booth and Gray 2024).

A male Common Eastern Bumble Bee (Bombus impatiens) sleeping on New England Aster blooms.

Zig Zag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)

Part shade to Full Shade; Prefers, fertile loam but tolerates heavy clay; Well-drained soils; 1-3 feet tall; Yellow; August – October

Zig Zag Goldenrod is a non-aggressive goldenrod that is a great addition to the shade garden. It provides pollen and nectar for both short- and long-tongued bees, wasps, flies and butterflies and it is the larval host plant for over 45 species of moths (Booth and Gray 2024).

The leaves of Zig Zag Goldenrod can also change colour in fall, adding to the plant’s aesthetic value.

Blue-stemmed Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)

Part shade to Full Sun; Most well-drained soils, tolerates poor soil; 1.5 – 3 feet tall; Yellow; August – October

Blue-stemmed goldenrod has yellow clusters of flowers that bloom all along the purplish-blue stem in early autumn, creating streaks of gold if planted in large patches. Unlike other goldenrods, it does not spread aggressively. Its leaves host larvae of 45 moth species (Gray and Booth 2024).

Common Eastern Bumble Bee on Blue-stem Goldenrod.

Button Blazing Star (Liatris aspera)

Full Sun; Dry-Medium; Sand, loam; 2 – 5 feet tall; Yellow; August – October; Purple-Pink

Button Blazing Star is one of the most drought tolerant blazing stars. Unlike Dense Blazing Star (Liatris spicata) its flowers are held on individual stems rather than in spikes and the corms cannot be divided. Birds especially prefer its seeds (Diboll and Cox 2023).

Button Blazing Star provides nectar to migrating Monarchs in my garden on Sept. 2. It was still blooming on October 10th.

The evening of October 9th we had a second hard frost (-6oC with wind chill) but the next day all of these native perennials were still blooming. If you are looking at your garden this Thanksgiving and not seeing any plants still flowering and supporting pollinators, maybe make plans to add one or two of these next spring?

REFERENCES

Booth, S. no date. Native Asters for Ontario Gardens.

Diboll, N. & H. Cox. 2023. The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants. The University of Chicago Press. 636 pp.

Gray, R. and S. Booth. 2024. The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region. Firefly Books. 352 pp.

St. John, K. 2023. A Closer Look at Sleeping Bumblebees. Outside my Window blog post.

The Xerces Society. 2025. Bumble Bees: Nesting and Overwintering.

RELATED

The Great Divide

By Marjorie Vendrig, Master Gardener in Training

Springtime gardening comes with a burst of energy, an unavoidable tendency to order too many seeds, buy too many plants and generally underestimate our own energy and garden space. Fall gardening, on the other hand, allows us to work with past season successes and failures fresh in our memories. It’s much more measured — the best season for gardening, in many respects.

Fall is the perfect time to divide perennials. There are several reasons to divide perennials: Mature perennials often begin to die out from the centre, they might be in the wrong spot, or they have gotten too big where they are. For many perennials, division is a straightforward way to create more plants with minimal effort and cost. Many perennials, such as Hostas and Daylilies are good candidates for fall division.  Division should take place early enough in the season to allow the roots to establish before it gets too cold. Late-blooming perennials such as Asters and Chrysanthemums are best divided in spring. And some plants, such as Poppies, don’t divide well at all.

Through this year’s growing season, I identified three plants in my garden ready for division:  a hosta, a goat’s beard, and a spikenard.

Hosta is a tough plant, it requires some muscle to get out of the ground and split but is also tough enough to withstand the move.  Despite the heat and drought this year, my hosta was in fine shape so I decided to dig up the plant without removing the leaves. (If it were later in the season, or if the plant were suffering, I would cut away many of the leaves above the crown and dig up the root without leaves.) The plant was well established, enough that I had to push the spade around the plant a few times, pushing it deeper each time and with some tearing and snapping of roots.  In the end, the whole clump came out fairly easily. Sometimes there is an obvious small or ‘baby’ clump that can be broken or cut off easily. In other cases, the roots can be plied apart with a garden fork and, when it’s really tough,  a sharp spade or knife cut into the middle of the clump is easiest. Broken or damaged leaves are removed and the new plants are planted at the same level they had been growing. Care should be taken to ensure all roots are under soil and the plant is watered generously for the next weeks.

The Goat’s Beard (Aruncus dioicus) is simply too big for its current location, overdue for division. Because of its size – it would be very difficult to dig and divide the plant without breaking the stems – I cut back all the stems to about 6 – 8” above the soil level. With a bit of digging, the clump came out fairly easily. I shook off a lot of the soil making it easier to divide into two substantial clumps, each with good roots. If the centre of an old perennial has died out, the living clumps around the edges can be dug out and replanted, the old clump in the centre discarded. Each clump gets replanted at the same depth and watered well. Smaller perennials, such as perennial Geranium (Geranium), Coral Bells (Heuchera),  Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina)  can be dug up gently and teased apart to produce new small plants, each to be planted and watered carefully.

Sun King Golden Japanese Spikenard (Aralia cordata) is a real showstopper in my garden. It loves where it’s growing but it is far too big. As with the Goat’s Beard, I cut off all the stems, then tackled the root clump. It is a beast of a plant, requiring lots of digging and hefting to get it out of the ground. Once out, I washed away the soil with high pressure water from the garden hose, then plunged the spade into the almost woody root. It took a lot of force and pushing to split. I only want a small clump so I worked with the spade to pull apart several sections, planting one and giving the rest to friends.

The red circles indicate ‘eyes’, this is where there will be new growth in the spring, each root clump should have several eyes.

Small clump of spikenard planted!

References:

Toronto Master Gardeners, Gardening Guide

Fine Gardening, Gardening Basics, 10 Tips on Dividing Perennial Plants

Iowa State University How to Divide and Transplant Perennials

The Secret Lives of Fallen Leaves: What They’re Really Doing

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Every autumn, leaves throw one final party as they drop to the ground. It looks like they’ve just given up, disconnected from their branches and collapsed. But trust me—fallen leaves are not lying around doing nothing. They’re busy living their best afterlife.

First, an important definition:

Abscission: the natural detachment of parts of a plant, typically dead leaves and ripe fruit.

When leaves detach from their tree, they fall to the ground and form crunchy carpets, daring you to walk through and make as much noise as possible. (Kids and dogs in parks are especially good at this.) But once the fun is over, the real magic begins. Beneath those piles, leaves quietly turn into a delicious buffet for worms, beetles, fungi, and all sorts of tiny critters. It’s basically an all-you-can-eat salad bar for the soil.

As they break down, leaves release nutrients back into the earth, feeding your trees, flowers, and veggie patch — nature’s own recycling program. They also act like outdoor blankets, keeping plant roots warm through winter. Your daffodils may never say thank you, but they’re grateful. Just remember to peel back the blanket a bit in the spring when the daffodils want to make their grand entrance.

So next time you’re tempted to bag every last leaf in the fall, remember—they’re not just garden litter. They’re quiet agents of soil health, undercover mulch, and active decomposers. Fallen leaves aren’t dead weight. They’re just busy working on their next big role: turning into next spring’s garden gold.

So maybe this fall you can give your rake a rest and let the leaves do their thing. After all, they’ve been running this underground operation for millions of years. They know what they’re doing. Do take the time to rake them off of your grass, though, as grass doesn’t tolerate the leaf party as well as the garden does!