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Bees & Pollinators, Native Plants, Perennials, Websites

Invite These Super-Pollinators & Pest Managers to Your Garden

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By Silvia Strobl, Master Gardener

You may know that native bees are the most important of our native pollinators, but which insects are the second most important pollinators of food crops and native wildflowers?

Perhaps you’ve never heard of flower flies? Visiting flowers more often and moving more pollen than pollinators such as butterflies, flower flies range in size from less than 1/4 inch long to more than 3/4 inch long, but pollinate at least 72% of global food crops and about 70% of wildflowers (Pollinator Partnership, 2024).

Maybe you have mistaken their strongly contrasting black and yellow bands on the abdomen for a bee or a wasp? Their colouring mimics that of these stinging insects—an evolutionary development known as Batesian mimicry. The English naturalist, Henry Walter Bates, came up with this term for harmless species that take on the physical traits of dangerous or bad-tasting species. So although hover flies lack a stinger, their colouring imitates the warning colours of bees and wasps that do have stingers, thereby offering protection by deceiving predators.

The larvae of flower flies are stellar pest managers, consuming aphids, leafhoppers, mealy bugs and thrips. In fact, one larva can eat up to 400 aphids over its two to three week development!

Females lay hundreds of eggs, depositing each tiny white egg singly on leaves or shoots near colonies of aphids. The larvae hatch in two to three days and resemble small legless maggots,  ranging in colour from creamy-white to green or brown (Mahr 2025).

Four common flower flies that I have observed and photographed in my garden, and whose identity has been verified by experts on iNaturalist, are shown and described in the following. Lists of flowers visited are from Skevington et al 2019).

Caption: This Orange-legged Drone Fly (Eristalis flavipes) is found in a many habitats. It visits a wide range of flowers, including this Zinnia in my garden, but also Spreading Dogbane (Apocynum androsaemifolium), Button Bush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), Thistles (Cirsium spp.) Joe-Pye Weeds (Eupatorium spp), Apple (Malus spp.), Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius), Primroses (Primula spp.), Sedum (Sedum spp.), Goldenrods (Solidago spp.), Meadowsweet (Spirea spp.), Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), and Viburnum (Viburnum spp.).
Caption: This adult Eastern Calligrapher‘s (Toxomerus geminatus) beautiful black and white pattern is well disguised on the disc flower of the native Lance-leaved Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata). The adults consume both pollen and nectar, and have been recorded visiting: Joe Pye Weeds, Ninebark, Goldenrods, brambles (Rubus spp.), feverfew and tansy (Tanacetum spp.) and blueberries (Vaccinium spp.). The larvae pierce aphids and mites with their hooked mouthparts before feeding on them.
Caption: The Narrow-headed Marsh Fly (Helophilus fasciatus) is one of the earliest and latest flower flies, shown here pollinating late blooming Smooth Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve) in my garden. Some flowers visited include Button Bush, Joe-Pye Weeds, Grass leaved Goldenrod (Euthamia graminifolia), Ninebark and Golden Alexanders (Zizia spp.). The adults lay eggs on vegetation overhanging ponds and when the larvae hatch they fall into the water where they complete their development.
Caption: Transverse Banded Flower Fly (Eristalis transversa) on flower of the native Tall Coreopsis (Coreopsis tripteris).The adults consume pollen and nectar from:
Native shrubs such as Buttonbush, Ninebark, and Viburnums
Native coneflowers (Rudebekia spp.), Goldenrods, and Asters
Non-native winter cress or yellow rocket (Barbarea spp.), sedums, feverfew and tansy

There are 416 known flower fly species in eastern North America (Skevington et al. 2019). So I hope to observe and photograph at least a few more species on flowers in my garden this season! Nearly all flower flies can readily be identified by their:

  • Large heads with large forward-facing eyes that often fuse together. Bees have kidney-shaped eyes on the side of their heads.
  • Stubby, short antennae as opposed to the long antennae that bees have
  • Only 2 wings compared to 4 wings for bees and wasps (Erikson 2020)
  • A “false” vein in their wing venation i.e., a vein that is not joined to any others

From: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/S/I-DP-SYRP-KC.003.html#gsc.tab=0

How do you attract these super pollinators and pest managers to your garden?

  1. Flower flies prefer white and yellow flowers that are open and have easily accessible pollen and nectar, for example the disc flowers in the daisy (or Asteraceae family), but they also use orange, pink, purple, and blue daisy-like flowers. According to a recently published book about the flower flies of northeastern North America, native plants are essential to supporting a diversity of flower flies (Skevington et al. 2019). Non-native plants that attract flower flies include: Queen Anne’s lace, wild mustard, sweet alyssum, coriander, dill, broccoli, kale, lettuce, mustards, dandelion, plums and cherries (Mahr, 2025, Pollinator Partnership 2024).
  2. Don’t use pesticides since they can kill both the larvae and the adult flower flies.
  3. To give the larvae something to eat, tolerate some level of aphids and other pests in your garden.

Don’t be surprised if by doing these things you suddenly start seeing flower flies in your garden. Also known as hover flies, you may even observe their darting back and forth flying behaviour i.e., when males hover in the open hoping to attract a female, or when males of some species defend a territory.

Flower flies are some of the most beneficial insects you can have in the garden so invite them in by planting the annual non-native and native flowers they prefer.

Literature Cited

Erikson, B. 2020. Flower flies: insects with a “PR problem”. Wild Pollinator Partners.

Mahr, S. 2025. Hover, Flower or Syrphid Flies (Syrphidae). Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Extension.

Pollinator Partnership. 2024. Flower flies—masters of disguise. 2-pages.

Skevington J.H., M.M. Locke, A.D. Young, K. Moran, W.J. Crins and S.A. Marshall. 2019. Flower Guide to the Flower Flies of Northeastern North America. Princeton University Press. 512 pp. (Note: all 6 authors are Canadians from Ontario).

Information, Insects, Websites

Why the American Toad Deserves Your Love

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By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

Tucked away in the cool corners of gardens, beneath leafy cover and damp soil, lives an unassuming champion of ecological balance: the American toad (Anaxyrus americanus). With their warty skin, endearing hops, and golden eyes, these amphibians may not boast the charisma of butterflies or hummingbirds, but their contributions to gardens are unparalleled. Often overlooked, the American toad quietly goes about its work, consuming pests, enriching the soil, and maintaining harmony in ecosystems. It’s time we shine a light on these remarkable creatures and embrace their presence in our outdoor spaces.

American Toad showcasing why warty skin is so great at camouflage

The American toad, native to eastern North America, thrives in a range of environments, from woodlands to suburban backyards (Elliott et al., 2009). Unlike frogs, toads are covered in warty, textured skin, an adaptation that provides effective camouflage against predators. This camouflage, combined with their nocturnal habits, allows them to move unnoticed as they perform their crucial ecological roles. Chief among these roles is pest control. Each evening, American toads emerge from their shelters to feast on insects, slugs, and other invertebrates. By consuming thousands of pests in a single season, they provide natural, chemical-free pest management, an essential service for gardeners and farmers alike (Mitchell & Lannoo, 2020).

In gardens, toads reduce populations of harmful insects like beetles,
cutworms, and mosquitoes, preventing these pests from damaging plants or spreading disease. Unlike chemical pesticides, which often harm beneficial insects and pollute the environment, toads work in harmony with nature, maintaining ecological balance without collateral damage (Relyea, 2005). Furthermore, their waste contributes organic nutrients to the soil, promoting plant health and improving soil quality—a testament to the interconnectedness of life in the garden.

Well-fed American Toad guarding Thom Luloff’s plants from pests

The life of an American toad is a remarkable journey of survival,
reproduction, and adaptation. During the day, toads shelter under
rocks, logs, or thick vegetation to escape predators and prevent
dehydration. At night, they hunt using their long, sticky tongues to
capture prey with incredible precision. In spring, their lives become
even more captivating as males gather at ponds, streams, or garden
water features to call for mates. Their trills, a hallmark of the
breeding season, are a welcome sign of spring. After mating, females
lay long strings of eggs, often numbering thousands, which hatch into algae-grazing tadpoles within days (Elliott et al., 2009). These
tadpoles play a vital role in keeping aquatic ecosystems healthy by
controlling algae growth.

Toads are also experts at enduring winter, surviving through a process called hibernation. As temperatures drop, toads burrow deep into the soil, often using loose dirt, leaf litter, or even garden waste as insulation. These layers protect them from freezing temperatures and provide shelter from predators (Mitchell & Lannoo, 2020). For this reason, leaving leaf piles and garden debris untouched during fall and winter is critical. These natural materials serve as vital hibernation sites, not just for toads but also for other beneficial creatures like pollinators and soil invertebrates. Clearing the garden too early in the spring can disrupt or destroy these overwintering habitats, inadvertently harming the wildlife that supports your garden’s health. Waiting until temperatures consistently rise ensures that these creatures can safely emerge and resume their roles in the ecosystem.

Despite their adaptations, American toads face numerous predators, including snakes, birds, and mammals. However, their warty skin serves as more than camouflage—it secretes a mild toxin that deters many would-be predators (Mitchell & Lannoo, 2020). Some toads even use dramatic behaviors, such as flipping onto their backs and feigning death, to discourage attacks.

Beyond their ecological contributions, American toads are fascinating creatures with unique traits. They can live over a decade in the wild, a testament to their resilience and adaptability (Elliott et al., 2009). They can also change their skin color slightly to blend with their surroundings, shifting between lighter and darker tones based on temperature and humidity. These subtle abilities add to the toad’s allure for those who take the time to observe them closely.

Creating a toad-friendly garden is simple and deeply rewarding. To
attract toads, provide shelter using overturned flowerpots, rocks, or
logs, and allow areas of dense vegetation or mulch for shade. A
shallow water feature is a magnet for toads, especially during
breeding season, but ensure the water source has sloped edges to allow easy entry and exit. Perhaps most critically, avoid using pesticides and herbicides, which can harm toads directly or contaminate their food sources (Rowe et al., 2001). Leaving leaf litter and reducing outdoor lighting can also make your garden more inviting to these nocturnal helpers.

A garden with toads is a garden alive with balance, biodiversity, and
beauty. These humble amphibians are more than just pest
controllers—they are symbols of a healthy ecosystem, reminding us of nature’s intricacy and resilience. By encouraging toads to share our outdoor spaces, we not only protect these vital creatures but also create gardens that are richer, more sustainable, and teeming with life.

________________________________

References

Elliott, L., Gerhardt, H. C., & Davidson, C. (2009). The Frogs and
Toads of North America: A Comprehensive Guide to Their Identification,
Behavior, and Calls. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt.

Mitchell, J. C., & Lannoo, M. J. (2020). Amphibian Declines: The
Conservation Status of United States Species. University of California
Press.

Relyea, R. A. (2005). The impact of insecticides and herbicides on the
biodiversity and productivity of aquatic communities. Ecological
Applications, 15(2), 618-627. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1890%2F03-5346&data=05%7C02%7C%7C12574bb3c25c4100183608dd1494ba31%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638689351237579258%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=GMFHZIGNlxU6ElTdRGFb3QRIoRBvNAY9NFtYojOM%2FNA%3D&reserved=0

Rowe, C. L., Hopkins, W. A., & Coffman, V. R. (2001). Exposure to low
levels of heavy metals can negatively affect amphibians. Environmental
Toxicology and Chemistry, 20(2), 250-256.
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1002%2Fetc.5620200206&data=05%7C02%7C%7C12574bb3c25c4100183608dd1494ba31%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638689351237606364%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=zex7S5eViOAadRc9ys8EUKqe25NQNoGUK9dPcrMeLic%3D&reserved=0

Books, Communication, Dreams, Houseplants, Information, Links, Seeds, Websites

Got the Gardening Winter Blues?

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by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

Last night I dreamed of green, lush tropical gardens. It was yet another sign I am suffering from the February winter blues or as I call it “Garden Deficit Disorder”.

Yes, the days are getting a little longer with every sunrise, and we have had a fair bit of sun over the past month (which helps a lot) but I have more than half a metre of snow blanketing my gardens while my English cousins are sending photos of snowdrop drifts after their ‘long winter’.

I do like the winter season, if for no other reason than my aging body needs a rest from the garden. But it’s also the only downtime I have to plan for next year’s garden, order seeds and attend garden workshops, because I know once spring arrives I will not have a minute to spare.

So I’ll offer up a few gardening related activities for the wintertime that may help you through the blues…

Browse those Seed Catalogues

Whether you get paper copies or just look at them online, seed catalogues will bring a smile to your face, even if you don’t buy anything. The wonderful folks at Seeds of Diversity have put together an great map of Canadian seed companies. Some of my favourites are Northern Wildflowers (Sudbury), William Dam Seeds (near Dundas), Floribunda Seeds (near Peterborough) and Hawthorn Seeds (Mount Forest).

cartoon showing someone in bed with seed catalogs
Credit: Joseph Tychonievich

Catch Up on Your Reading

Winter is the only time (and my favourite time) to cuddle up with my newest garden book, while enjoying beautiful photos and deciding which new plants will be my garden next year.

If you’re interested in native plants I highly recommend The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region (I did a book review here) and A Northern Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants and Pollinators: Creating Habitat in the Northeast, Great Lakes and Upper Midwest by Lorraine Johnson.

Another favourite I’ll be drooling over (it’s visually stunning) is Planting – A New Perspective by Piet Oudolf and Nigel Kingsbury.

Or even a fictional book involving gardening makes me happy – highly recommend The Last Garden in England by Julia Kelly.

Buy a New Houseplant (or 2, or 10)

While I love seeing colourful houseplants over the winter, our harsh interior conditions (furnace heat and low humidity) are not ideal for them. I will confess – I am a much better gardener outside than inside, plus I have the additional challenge of two cats that like to nibble. But do a little research and find the right plant for your space, or if you’re not ready for that investment, just pick up some fresh cut flowers to brighten your day.

Review your Garden Photos

On dull winter days I try to review and organize the zillions (ok maybe a slight exaggeration) of garden photos on my phone (I even have a gardening folder). I download the photos to my computer and organize them, all the while just enjoying the memories and seeing the colour! It’s wonderful that digital cameras and our smart phones now make it so much easier these days to capture our gardens in all their glory.

Here’s one of my chipmunks munching on some Green-headed/cutleaf coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata) buds this summer.

Attend a Seedy Saturday or Sunday

If you’d like some more social interaction with likeminded gardeners or even just some advice, finding a local Seedy Saturday or Sunday is perfect. They occur across Canada, mostly in February and March. Seeds of Diversity have a comprehensive list – use the menu on the right of the page to filter by province. Peterborough’s Seedy Sunday is March 9th.

Find Gardening Seminars (online or in person)

If I can think of anything positive about the pandemic, it’s that we all transitioned to more online learning, and platforms like Zoom made it easy for garden experts to reach large audiences. While it’s always wonderful to see speakers in person, online presentations mean I can watch gardening experts that I might otherwise never have the chance to see in person.

Our Grey County Master Gardeners offer a great series, as does Mississauga-based Blooming Boulevards, and I’ve also been attending the Home Gardening seminars offered by the Iowa State MG Program and some by the Wild Ones organization in the US.

An upcoming in-person gardening event in Peterborough is the very popular A Day for Gardeners – save the date!

Gardening Blogs and Websites

Personally I tend to follow those who have similar growing conditions to me (Zone 4b, harsh winters, Central Ontario) but I do have several (including a few in the UK) which I like to just view and enjoy.

You should of course sign up to receive the weekly Peterborough Master Gardener blog, delivered straight into your email on Monday mornings. Our members cover various topics and issues which will be of interest to gardeners, and you can also search older blogs for specific information using the search function.

Here are a few of my favourite blogs/newsletters. Many of these folks also have YouTube channels and extensive information on their websites.

The Empress of Dirt (Ontario)

The Impatient Gardener (Wisconsin)

The Laidback Gardener (Quebec)

The folks at Savvy Gardening (Pittsburgh, Halifax, Dundas)

I hope these ideas help get you through these cold winter days and nights. Let’s all dream about spring and a new gardening season!

photo of butterfly on echinacea with text on garden deficit disorder
Birds, Information, Native Plants, Shrubs & Trees, Websites

Cedar Trees: A Winter Food Source for Wildlife

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By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

In February of 2023, I wrote an article about cedar trees; their botanical family, the medicinal history and their use by the early pioneers of our region.

Although the article alluded to its use as a food source for critters, that wasn’t the main purpose of the article. In this blog, I’d like to expand on that initial description to provide more information on the importance of the tree to our mostly four-legged friends and planet co-habitants.

The eastern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis), common in forests and along shorelines, provides a reliable food source for many animals when other options are scarce during our harsh winters. I have a row of cedars at the back of my lot mostly for wind control but it provides other functions for local wildlife.

Deer are among the most frequent consumers of cedar during winter. When snow covers ground vegetation, deer browse on cedar foliage, which is rich in nutrients. This evergreen tree helps sustain deer populations, especially in areas with limited winter food. However, over-browsing can damage young cedar trees and affect forest regeneration.

Other animals also rely on cedar. Snowshoe hares feed on cedar bark and twigs when their preferred food sources, like shrubs, are unavailable. Porcupines chew on cedar bark for nourishment. Even small birds, such as chickadees and finches, eat the seeds found in cedar cones.

Cedar trees provide shelter. Their dense, evergreen foliage offers protection from wind and snow, creating warm habitats for birds and small mammals. This shelter can be as important as food for survival in winter.

If you own land with cedar trees, consider their value to wildlife. Protect young trees from over-browsing by using barriers or planting more cedars in areas where they are heavily used. Maintaining healthy cedar stands can support local ecosystems and provide crucial resources for animals during winter.

In addition to cedar, deer and other wild animals rely on a variety of other trees, shrubs, and woody plants for food. These sources are critical when grasses, green plants, and other ground vegetation are buried under snow. Below are some examples:

Trees Consumed by Deer

  1. Aspen and Poplar (Populus species): Deer often browse the twigs and bark of these trees, especially younger specimens.
  2. Maple (Acer species): Deer will eat twigs and buds from sugar maple and red maple trees.
  3. Birch (Betula species): Twigs and bark of birch trees can be a winter food source.
  4. Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis): Eastern hemlock is a favorite winter food, with deer browsing its soft, green needles.
  5. Willow (Salix species): Willows near wetlands provide twigs and bark for deer and other animals.
  6. Oak (Quercus species): Acorns, if not consumed in the fall, remain an important energy source for deer and squirrels during winter.

Other Trees and Shrubs for Wildlife

  1. Alder (Alnus species): Twigs and catkins are eaten by small mammals and birds.
  2. Pine (Pinus species): Seeds from pine cones are consumed by squirrels and birds, while deer sometimes nibble on needles.
  3. Dogwood (Cornus species): Red osier dogwood is a common browse species for deer and rabbits.
  4. Sumac (Rhus species): Deer eat sumac twigs and fruit clusters during the winter.
  5. Apple and Crabapple (Malus species): Wild or abandoned apple trees provide fruit, twigs, and bark for wildlife.

Conservation Tips

To support wildlife during winter, maintaining diverse tree species in forests and natural areas is crucial. Planting native shrubs and trees that produce berries or nuts can also help sustain wildlife through the cold months.

Resources

How do Deer Survive Harsh Winter Weather?

Do Cedar Trees Make Good Deer Habitat?

Northern White Cedar – An important winter food source for White-tailed Deer

5 native plants that benefit wildlife in winter

Bugs, Garden Cleanup, Insects, Websites

A Thousand Legs Beneath Your Soil

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By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

In the quiet stillness of the garden, just beneath the surface of the
soil, legions of extraordinary creatures carry out vital work. Among
them, the multi-legged centipedes and millipedes are perhaps the most misunderstood. For many gardeners, these organisms evoke unease with their segmented bodies and scurrying movements. Yet, these “creatures of a thousand legs” are ecological superheroes, each playing a unique role in the delicate balance of life in the garden.

To appreciate their significance, it’s essential to understand the
differences between these arthropods. Though often mistaken for one another, centipedes and millipedes lead entirely different lives, each defined by their distinctive anatomy, diet, and ecological niche.

Thom Luloff, MGiT, with an American Giant Millepede (Narceus americanus).

________________________________

Centipedes are the agile top predators of the soil. With their
flattened bodies and one pair of legs per segment, they cut swift,
predatory figures in the shadowy underworld. These arthropods are
merciless in their pursuit of prey, targeting garden nuisances like
aphids, grubs, and slugs. Their speed and venomous claws make them highly effective pest controllers, offering gardeners a natural,
sustainable alternative to chemical pesticides. Picture this: a
centipede darting through the mulch, its countless legs a blur as it
strikes down a slug threatening your tender seedlings. This is
nature’s pest control in action.

Millipedes, by contrast, are the humble custodians of decay. Their
rounded bodies and two pairs of legs per segment give them a slower, more deliberate gait, befitting their work as decomposers. Millipedes feast on fallen leaves, decaying wood, and other organic matter, breaking it down into nutrient-rich humus that enriches the soil. They are, quite literally, the architects of fertility, ensuring that the nutrients locked within last season’s debris return to the earth to fuel new growth.

Differences between Millipedes and Centipedes, University of Kentucky
College of Food, Agriculture and Environment

________________________________

Together, these creatures contribute to the health and vitality of
garden ecosystems. Millipedes, with their voracious appetite for
detritus, play a crucial role in nutrient cycling. They transform the
clutter of dead leaves and organic waste into forms of nitrogen and
phosphorus that plants can readily absorb, enhancing soil fertility
and structure. At the same time, centipedes ensure balance by keeping pest populations in check, preventing infestations that could
devastate your crops.

Moreover, the movement of these arthropods benefits the physical
structure of the soil. As they burrow and scurry, they aerate
compacted earth, improving water infiltration and promoting robust
root growth. Their work is quiet, unseen, and often uncelebrated, yet its impact is profound.

________________________________

But why should gardeners go out of their way to encourage centipedes and millipedes to make their homes in the soil? For one, creating a welcoming environment for these arthropods reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Their presence signals a
healthy, balanced ecosystem—one where plants thrive without excessive human intervention.

The good news is that attracting these creatures is neither
complicated nor costly. Simple actions like maintaining a layer of
leaf litter, adding compost, and avoiding chemical pesticides can make all the difference. Leaf litter and compost not only provide
millipedes with their preferred food but also offer the moist, shaded
habitat both species need to survive. Likewise, steering clear of
pesticides protects these beneficial arthropods from harm, allowing
them to flourish and perform their vital roles.

By fostering a garden that welcomes centipedes and millipedes, you’re not just supporting these fascinating creatures—you’re investing in the long-term health and sustainability of your soil.

________________________________

So, the next time you catch a glimpse of a many-legged creature
scuttling through the mulch, resist the urge to recoil (or stomp!).
Instead, pause to appreciate their role in the grand tapestry of life
beneath your soil.

________________________________

References

David, J. F. (2019). The role of millipedes in forest ecosystems: A
review. Biological Reviews, 94(3), 1385-1404.
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1111%2Fbrv.12506&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64a0cfac1b644985330c08dd0fed73ea%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638684234880126274%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=0uWKFh70nUJCFHhakG%2FwLoGeKkAFA8pOUKtxWtjwb9w%3D&reserved=0

Lavelle, P., Decaëns, T., Aubert, M., Barot, S., & Blouin, M. (2020).
Soil invertebrates and ecosystem services. European Journal of Soil
Biology, 96, 103123. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1016%2Fj.ejsobi.2020.103123&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64a0cfac1b644985330c08dd0fed73ea%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638684234880147152%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=8iMpbqfVc4fEheBopj1HR8XnaK1%2F5iSorlxHsDdDMa8%3D&reserved=0

Linden, J. F., & Oliveira, F. M. (2022). Arthropods as biological
control agents in agroecosystems: The case of centipedes. Journal of
Biological Control, 36(4), 201-209.
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdoi.org%2F10.1016%2Fj.jbc.2022.04.001&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64a0cfac1b644985330c08dd0fed73ea%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638684234880161698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=IllZmczP9WGDkxbl%2BOiMrtuN8s6Ryfr5ARrgutoWa38%3D&reserved=0

Bulbs, Garden Cleanup, Websites

Finding Freedom: Guerilla Dahlia Dividing

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By Marilyn Homewood, Master Gardener

As the days shorten and the leaves fall, it is time to engage in the annual ritual that I call the dahlia conundrum.  Dahlia growers spend sleepless nights wondering whether to wash clumps or store with the dirt on; what to store in—peat, shavings, vermiculite or saran wrap; store as a clump or as individual tubers. They fill the Amazon coffers by ordering the newest recommended snips as though these snips will miraculously reveal the tiny hidden eyes in the crown of the tubers.  They pack every individual tuber away, ending up with far too many containers of dahlia tubers.  After all, how many tubers do you really need next year??

This year, I decided to make my own life easier and divide with the goal of having enough tubers for planting next year (with a backup in case of bad storage).  And discard the extra tubers no matter the volume.  First, I dug up my tubers, shook off the dirt and let them dry overnight.  Before dividing I check each plant for signs of disease or damage. Potentially diseased plants are discarded and damaged tubers removed.

Freshly dug dahlia tuber

When I come across a large clump, I split the stem (and hence the clump) with a chisel and mallet.  Effective and fast if not a little messy.  Next step, I look for a small grouping of tubers that can be stored as a unit.  This is what is more commonly done in Europe.  If small clumps are saved, then you no longer need to search for eyes.  There will be sufficient crown material to provide an eye or two.  Just be sure the tubers are firm, not damaged and that the necks are intact. 

Clumps labelled with flagging tape

I label each small clump with flagging tape which can be easily attached to the clump and tied in place.  I repeat this process only until I have the desired number of units of tubers.  The rest goes to the compost pile.  I was ruthless!  Before moving onto the next plant, I disinfected my tools. 

Dahlias are known to be infected by a large number of viruses which can be transmitted from plant to plant by pruning equipment.  Studies in the USA have shown that over 80% of dahlia stock is infected by a virus.  While good data is not available for Canada, it only seems likely that a significant portion of our tubers may be infected as many growers here import new varieties from the USA.  Insects also transmit these viruses between plants.  In the live plants, viruses are often discovered by observing changes in the coloration of the leaves.  Sometimes it is hard to be absolutely certain but with dahlia’s there is a saying “When in doubt, throw it out”.  It is not uncommon that when I discover a plant showing chlorotic changes in the leaves, that I simply pull the entire plant up tubers intact and discard it in the waste (never the compost!).  Left in the garden, these plants can infect all of your other dahlias.

Disinfectants known to be effective are 10% bleach solution using  a contact time of 10 minutes, Virkon S, a viricidal agent commonly used in veterinary cleaning applications; Virkon has the advantage of being non corrosive and has a contact time similar to bleach. Lysol All Purpose Cleanser has also shown viricidal activity provided that a contact time of 2 minutes is achieved.  70% rubbing alcohol is a common viricidal agent with a minimal contact time making it suitable for the wiping of snips between plants when harvesting blooms.  Remember to clean all dirt and sap from tools prior to using a disinfectant.

Once all the needed clumps have obtained, tubers can tucked away into the storage medium of your choice (vermiculite medium grade for me) and put into an area that is 50 degree F or less for the winter.  Check on tubers monthly to adjust moisture levels and wait for the next spring.

 Left: Vermiculite in bulb crate
Right: Tubers packed in bulb crates ready to store in basement

My efforts this year reduced my time dividing by 66% and cut the volume of dahlias stored in half!  More time for planting fall bulbs!

Resources

Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers:
https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/clean-and-disinfect-gardening-tools

American Dahlia Society: https://www.dahlia.org/docsinfo/understanding_virus_in_dahlia/virus-documentation-index

Dahlia Mosaic Virus: https://dahlia.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/ADS-DMV_Symptoms_Slides.pdf

Bugs, Insects, Slugs and Bugs, Websites

Why Spiders are Your Greatest Garden Guardians

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By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

If you’re an avid gardener, you’ve likely encountered spiders in your flower beds, vegetable patches, or even hanging from delicate webs strung between your favorite plants. For many, spiders evoke an immediate reaction of discomfort or fear, but these eight-legged creatures are some of your garden’s most important—and often underappreciated—residents.  Spiders play a crucial role in maintaining ecological balance and biodiversity, and they can be your best allies in managing pests without the need for chemical sprays.

The Ecological Role of Spiders

Spiders are predators—and highly effective ones at that. They feed on a variety of garden pests such as aphids, flies, beetles, and caterpillars, which, if left unchecked, could wreak havoc on your plants. By keeping these populations in check, spiders act as a natural form of pest control, reducing the need for harmful insecticides. In fact, studies show that spiders consume more insects each year than the weight of the entire human population combined! Garden ecosystems would struggle to manage pest populations, leading to overpopulation of insects that can damage crops and ornamental plants. In addition to maintaining balance in pest populations, spiders contribute to the biodiversity of your garden by providing food for other wildlife, such as birds and small mammals.

The Evolutionary Journey of Spiders

Spiders have been around for over 300 million years, evolving from ancient arachnid ancestors that roamed the Earth long before the dinosaurs. Through millions of years of evolution, they developed their silk-spinning abilities, which they now use for everything from building webs to creating egg sacs and even parachuting as juveniles (yes, baby spiders can “fly” short distances on silk threads). This evolutionary adaptability has made them some of the most successful predators on the planet, thriving in almost every environment, from deserts to forests—and yes, your garden.

Cool Facts

  1. Not all spiders spin webs—some, like the jumping spider, actively hunt their prey, pouncing on insects with speed and precision.
  2. Spider silk is one of the strongest materials in nature, stronger than steel of the same thickness, and scientists are studying how to replicate it for human use .
  3. A female spider can produce thousands of eggs, though only a small percentage will survive to adulthood, ensuring that spider populations remain balanced in the ecosystem.

Spiders: Friends, Not Vermin

Contrary to popular belief, spiders are not vermin. Unlike pests like rats or cockroaches, spiders do not scavenge human food or spread disease. They are solitary creatures that prefer to be left alone, and they actively help your garden by preying on harmful insects. A garden without spiders would be more vulnerable to insect infestations, leading to less healthy plants and lower yields of fruits, vegetables, and flowers.

Thom with the Barn Orb-Weaver, his favourite spider 🙂

Meet 4 Friendly Garden Spiders of Peterborough

Now that you know how vital spiders are, let’s introduce you to five common garden spiders you might encounter in your Peterborough garden. These gentle creatures are doing hard work to keep your garden healthy, so next time you see them, take a moment to appreciate their efforts.

  1. Barn Orb-Weaver, Araneus cavaticus
    • This fascinating garden ally is known for constructing large, intricate orb-shaped webs. These spiders are commonly found in barns, sheds, and near garden structures, often spinning their webs at night. Characterized by their rounded, bulbous abdomen, Barn Orb-Weavers typically range in color from orange to brown, with distinctive pale markings on their bodies. Despite their size and striking appearance, Barn Orb-Weavers are harmless to humans. They serve as a valuable asset in the garden by controlling insect populations, catching flies, moths, and other garden pests in their webs. Active from late summer through fall, they rebuild their webs each night, ensuring a fresh, sticky trap for their next meal. Known for being the inspiration behind Charlotte in the beloved story Charlotte’s Web, this spider holds a special place not just in literature, but in the ecological balance of gardens and rural spaces alike. Their presence signals a healthy ecosystem, and their web-spinning talents should be welcomed as an essential part of nature’s pest control system.
  2. Bold Jumping Spider (Phidippus audax)
    • With their striking black bodies and iridescent green or blue chelicerae (mouthparts), jumping spiders are some of the most curious and approachable spiders you’ll meet. These small but mighty spiders don’t spin webs to catch prey; instead, they leap from plant to plant, using their excellent eyesight to hunt down pests.
  3. Yellow Garden Spider (Argiope aurantia)
    • This stunning black-and-yellow spider is often found in gardens with tall plants and flowers. Known for its large, wheel-shaped web, the yellow garden spider weaves a zigzag pattern in the center of its web, which is believed to help it catch even more insects. It’s a fantastic predator of flying insects like mosquitoes and flies.
  4. Wolf Spider (Pardosa species)
    • Unlike orb-weavers, wolf spiders do not create webs. Instead, they are ground-dwellers that chase down their prey in garden beds and among fallen leaves. Though they may look a bit intimidating due to their size and speed, they are completely harmless to humans and extremely beneficial to gardeners

Where Do Spiders Fit in the Ecosystem?

Spiders are an integral part of the ecosystem, serving as both predators and prey. By keeping insect populations in check, they ensure that plants remain healthy and free of infestations. They also provide food for birds, reptiles, and other animals higher up in the food chain. If we were to eliminate spiders, we would see a rise in destructive insect populations, which could lead to reduced biodiversity and weaker ecosystems overall. Encouraging spiders to thrive in your garden is one of the best things you can do for your plants, your local wildlife, and the environment. So, the next time you spot a spider spinning its web or prowling the garden floor, take a moment to thank it for the invaluable service it’s providing. No squishing!

Conclusion: A Home for Spiders Is a Healthy Garden

In the grand scheme of nature, spiders are our silent partners, working diligently to create a balanced, thriving environment. By welcoming them into our gardens, we contribute to a healthier ecosystem and ensure that our plants can flourish without the need for harmful chemicals. So, let’s embrace our eight-legged friends and recognize that the key to a healthy, biodiverse garden might just be hanging from the next web you see.

References

  1. Nyffeler, M., & Birkhofer, K. (2017). An estimated 400–800 million tons of prey are annually killed by the global spider community. The Science of Nature, 104(3), 30.
  2. Foelix, R. F. (2011). Biology of Spiders (3rd ed.). Oxford University Press.
  3. Garwood, R. J., & Dunlop, J. A. (2014). The origins of spiders: Insights from the fossil record. Evolutionary Biology, 41(3), 523-535.
  4. Vollrath, F., & Knight, D. P. (2001). Liquid crystalline spinning of spider silk. Nature, 410, 541-548
Bugs, Information, Insects, Websites

Fall and the Invasion of the Earwigs

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As fall arrives, many gardeners notice an increase in earwigs lurking around their plants. These small, dark brown insects with pincers on their tails can look a bit intimidating, but their impact on your garden is a mix of good and bad.

Earwigs get their name from the old European myth that they crawl into your ears and tunnel into your brain to lay their eggs while you are sleeping. YIKES! Lucky for us, this old wives’ tale is not true. But the pincers on the back on an earwig’s body are still enough to freak people out. 

Earwigs are most active at night and can often be found hiding in damp, dark spots during the day. In the fall, they seek shelter from the cooler weather, often in garden beds, under mulch, or in piles of leaves. While earwigs have a bad reputation for munching on plants, their role in the garden isn’t all negative.

On the downside, earwigs do eat leaves, flowers, and vegetables like lettuce, strawberries, and soft fruits, which can cause damage to your garden. However, they don’t typically cause significant harm unless their population is out of control like in a season that’s wetter than normal.

On the positive side, earwigs help clean up the garden by eating decaying plant matter and even feeding on pests like aphids and mites. This makes them useful in keeping some pest populations down naturally. Earwigs will even eat other earwigs!

If you find earwigs causing damage, there are simple ways to manage them. Traps made from rolled-up newspaper or damp cardboard can attract them overnight. In the morning, simply dispose of the traps.

While earwigs can cause some harm to plants, they also play a helpful role in garden cleanup and pest control, making them a creature worth understanding in the fall garden ecosystem.

Resources

https://www.environmentalpestcontrol.ca/blog/earwigs-good-bad-ugly

https://www.growveg.com/guides/dealing-with-earwigs-in-your-vegetable-garden/

Information, Seeds, Websites

Saving Seeds

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By Judy Bernard, Master Gardener

When I was asked to put together an article on seed saving for our local Horticultural Society’s newsletter, I thought it would also be a good topic for this forum. Seed collecting can be a fun activity. You can share the seeds with other gardeners and trade for some varieties you don’t have in your garden.

Some things are quite obvious; like pumpkin seeds and squash seeds that you save, dry, and keep for the next year. Vegetable seeds too can be saved, like beans and peas when they get too ripe to eat; let them mature on the plants until the pods are dry and harvest the seeds.

By not deadheading some flowers, you can let them  go to seed and collect the seeds when the flower heads have dried. Many plants will self-seed like the dandelions we see all over our lawns. By collecting seeds we have some control over where they will grow.

For the most part, the majority of plants flower yearly, however there are those that only come into flower every other year like Hollyhocks and members of the carrot family. This can be frustrating if you forget where you have seeds planted or scattered like I do. This link describes types of plants.

For most seeds, we don’t have to do anything else except collect the seeds, and plant them the following year. Others do need special treatment:

  • Fermentation – A process where the outer gelatinous “skin” (my term) is removed from the seeds of such vegetables as tomatoes and cucumbers.
  • Scarification – Some seed shells are so hard that they need to be abraded or sanded/scratched to allow moisture to get into the seed germ.
  • Stratification – Some seeds need a period of cold to allow them to germinate. Winter sowing is a form of this strategy.

Some seeds are viable for a long time, others not so. To check viability, wet a paper towel and partly wring it out. It should be wet but not dripping. Put a few seeds on one half of the towel, fold the other half of the  towel over seeds and put in a plastic bag and seal. Within a few days you will be able to tell if the seeds germinate or not.

Seeds need to be stored in a dry cool environment. I keep mine in a labeled paper envelope in a larger plastic box in the basement.

For more information on seed saving check out this excellent article from the University of Minnesota.

Have fun with this aspect of gardening!

Shrubs & Trees, Websites, winter

Winter Protection for Your Garden

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By Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

The new year arrived with not a speck of snow on the ground and although the ground was frozen and well watered from rainfall, that lack of snow can cause damage in your gardens. Snow, beautiful snow is a great insulator for your perennial beds. I often throw extra snow on things like my rhododendron or hibiscus as I am shoveling sidewalks. Mulch or leaves will also insulate the ground so it is always good to mulch up your garden in the fall, because we can’t depend on snowfall through the cold winter months.

February often brings a thaw as well as the ice and storms that can do damage to trees and flowering shrubs. Cold temperatures, biting winds and the strong winter sun can bleach or dry evergreens when they are not protected by snow. Wrapping in burlap will not save plants from the cold, but it will protect them from wind and sun.

Sunscald can happen when the sun shines brightly on cold winter days, raising the temperature on tree bark which can trigger it to start to grow. When the sun sets and temperatures drop, bark cells in the cambium layer are killed. The cambium layer is just below the tree bark where nutrients travel between roots and leaves. Sunscald will cause scarring or cankers on the trunk and tends to be on the south side of the tree. It usually will not kill a tree but it can put stress on it. It can be harmful on young trees whose bark is thinner. Wrapping your young tree trunk with white tree guards can help with this. Tree guards will also help keep rabbits and other creatures from chewing the bark. Remember to remove this guard in spring.

Dieback can happen on flowering shrubs during a cold dry period. Flower buds that set in the fall can also be killed off from the cold. Plants like forsythia and rhododendron may need to be planted in protected areas with good snow protection and without wind so they produce flowers.  Other shrubs like hydrangea that are not for our zone 5b gardens may not flower in our area because they set their buds in fall and when we get those cold winter days and nights, the buds die. Pruning in fall can encourage growth when the plant should be beginning to rest for winter, so don’t prune too late into fall.

Frost heaving happens when soil freezes and thaws, and when there is not enough snow cover to keep the ground insulated. The semi evergreen coralbell (heuchera) can suffer and die if they heave. Be sure these perennials are well watered and planted into the ground well before freeze up.

When the freezing temperatures and snow arrives, animals like rabbits, mice, voles and deer often feed on the flowering shrubs and trees in your garden, eating bark, twigs and flower buds. I have had rabbits eat euonymus, bridal wreath spirea, yews and willow trees. This winter I have put up burlap fencing around some of my bushes so rabbits can’t “prune” them. I want snow, but I hope it doesn’t pile up too high so the little varmints can just hop over!

References

https://www.gardenmyths.com/sunscald-trees-prevention

extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter

laidbackgardener.blog/2023/12/13/how-will-this-mild-weather-affect-our-plants

www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/crops/plant-diseases/print,winter-sunscald-frost-cracking

tidcf.nrcan.gc.ca/en/diseases/factsheet/1000135