When I was asked to put together an article on seed saving for our local Horticultural Society’s newsletter, I thought it would also be a good topic for this forum. Seed collecting can be a fun activity. You can share the seeds with other gardeners and trade for some varieties you don’t have in your garden.
Some things are quite obvious; like pumpkin seeds and squash seeds that you save, dry, and keep for the next year. Vegetable seeds too can be saved, like beans and peas when they get too ripe to eat; let them mature on the plants until the pods are dry and harvest the seeds.
By not deadheading some flowers, you can let them go to seed and collect the seeds when the flower heads have dried. Many plants will self-seed like the dandelions we see all over our lawns. By collecting seeds we have some control over where they will grow.
For the most part, the majority of plants flower yearly, however there are those that only come into flower every other year like Hollyhocks and members of the carrot family. This can be frustrating if you forget where you have seeds planted or scattered like I do. This link describes types of plants.
For most seeds, we don’t have to do anything else except collect the seeds, and plant them the following year. Others do need special treatment:
Fermentation – A process where the outer gelatinous “skin” (my term) is removed from the seeds of such vegetables as tomatoes and cucumbers.
Scarification – Some seed shells are so hard that they need to be abraded or sanded/scratched to allow moisture to get into the seed germ.
Stratification – Some seeds need a period of cold to allow them to germinate. Winter sowing is a form of this strategy.
Some seeds are viable for a long time, others not so. To check viability, wet a paper towel and partly wring it out. It should be wet but not dripping. Put a few seeds on one half of the towel, fold the other half of the towel over seeds and put in a plastic bag and seal. Within a few days you will be able to tell if the seeds germinate or not.
Seeds need to be stored in a dry cool environment. I keep mine in a labeled paper envelope in a larger plastic box in the basement.
Wow. What a pleasure to finally see this book in print. Written by two very knowledgeable Ontario gardeners — Rick Gray and Shaun Booth — this is the native plant gardening resource I wish I had more than 5 years ago when I started incorporating native plants in my garden.
Focused specifically on the Southern Great Lakes Region, it’s an all-in-one, easy to use resource for those interested in plants that not only look wonderful but fulfill a critical role in our gardens in supporting wildlife, birds, and pollinators like butterflies, moths, bees, and insects.
It reminds me of an encyclopedia, with a full page spread on each native plant (and there’s over 150!). It’s not surprising to me that’s it’s already #4 on the Globe & Mail’s bestseller list.
The book is visually designed to make it easy to see key information at a glance, using quick guide key icons and two colour-coded bars providing exposure/light and moisture requirements. We’ve been blessed with several excellent native plant books in the past few years, but I appreciated several unique elements I hadn’t seen before – numerous appendices (matching soil types, seed collection and preparation, propagation, and butterflies and their host plants), as well as each plant’s Ontario’s Species at Risk status.
You’ll understand what each plant needs to thrive, how big they will get, and how to make more plants to share with your friends!
Sample spread page
As a Peterborough Master Gardener I have long been engaged in two Facebook groups – theOntario Native Plant Gardeninggroup (started by Shaun) and the Master Gardeners of Ontario group (where I am an admin and moderator). I remember clearly in May 2023 Rick trying to gauge interest from members on their proposed native plant book, and the incredibly positive response that they received. So full disclosure – I knew I was going to love this book before it was ever published.
The authors explain why the plants are organized by botanical/Latin name, which is important because common names can vary by region. However, if you only know the common name you can always search using the alphabetical index at the back of the book.
Essentially, each entry is a ‘checklist in a page’ on what you need to grow the plant. There are lots of photos (whole plant, leaves, flowers, fruiting bodies), a detailed description, easy to see symbols (the Quick Guide), information on the USDA Hardiness Zone, lifespan, propagation, and wildlife/pollinator value.
Skill levels are also mentioned but don’t be alarmed – most are listed as beginner, but there are certainly a few native plants that are a bit more challenging to grow and propagate.
Table of Contents plus shameless plug for my wonderful local, independent bookstore where I ordered the book.
I appreciate that in the introductory chapters the authors clearly explain things such as:
What is a native plant?
Aggressive vs invasive
Origin of the term weed
Nativar vs cultivar
Value of native plants
The authors clearly have a good sense of humour – there are pages titled “How to use this book”, “A coneflower by any other name”, “Fifty shades of…shade” and my favourite “2b or not 2b” (on the rationale for using USDA Hardiness zones). I loved the section on propagation and codes as I’m actively trying to grow more native plant material in my area.
I have to say that as a seasoned gardener I was surprised to see Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower) is not in the book (not native to most of this region but often sold as a native apparently) and Agastache foeniculum (Anise hyssop) is one that is included specifically because it is non-native to Ontario (it’s a western prairie plant). Oops! I have both in my garden north of Peterborough.
Was anything missing? Technically no, as the authors were clear that this was not a garden design book. Perhaps after putting out Vol. 2 (the other 150+ plants I know they wanted to include), they’ll consider something on understanding planting density and creating root competition, which I am learning is different to conventional perennials, and good plant pairings (which native plants support others).
One quick comment I will add is that native plants are wonderful once they are established, so you may need to do a bit of watering that first year, but after that they need no watering or fertilizing.
This book is perfect for reading at home (my husband gave me a quick quiz contest this afternoon on the Latin names) or taking with you to your local nursery as you search for native plants to add to your garden. Having trouble finding these plants? The Halton Region Master Gardeners maintain a dynamic map listing native plant nurseries around the province. Check it out!
The bottom line – a wonderful addition to my garden library, and to anyone interested in incorporating more native plants in their Ontario gardens.
The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region
By Rick Gray and Shaun Booth Publisher: Firefly Books, 2024 Paperback: 352 pages ISBN-10: 0-2281-0460-2 Price: C$45.00; available through local booksellers and larger book companies
About the Authors
Rick Gray (The Native Plant Gardener) has more than 300 species of native plants in his garden in southwestern Ontario and provides native plant garden design services.
Shaun Booth runs In Our Nature, an ecological garden design business, and launched the Ontario Native Plant Gardening group on Facebook.
Want More Information?
Many wonderful books on native plant gardening and naturalization have been published in the past few years – anything byLorraine Johnsonis a great complement to this book, and I love Piet Oudolf’s work (although he doesn’t always use native plants).
Dr Linda Chalker-Scott (and the Garden Professors blogon Facebook) is a great source of good, solid scientific information on gardeners keen to avoid the misinformation often seen on social media.
In 1696, a Sicilian monk discovered a vividly coloured flower with a bountiful fragrance in the hills surrounding the monastery. He transplanted it into his garden to grow on and was soon sending seeds from these transplants to other countries. He had discovered the sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus). This variety is still readily available today and is known as Cupani’s original.
Cupani’s original
Over the subsequent years, plant breeders (especially in England) went onto develop numerous varieties and by 1910, the sweet pea was considered one of the most popular annual flowers under cultivation. It was often a garden favorite here in Ontario. Unfortunately, the sweet pea is not featured as often in our gardens. Our changing climate (more heat, less rain) has made it more of a challenge to grow this plant successfully. However, it can be done with a little planning.
Sweet peas are plants that thrive in cool weather and can withstand a fair degree of frost. I aim to plant mine outside 4-6 weeks before the last frost. This gives them time to establish a strong root system when temperatures are moderate and moisture plentiful. This also helps them to withstand the high temperatures of summer.
Sweet peas are deep rooted even as seedlings and need to be potted into a large container such as a 4 inch pot. My preference is to use “root trainers”. These are containers that open like a book, are five inches in depth and are have longitudinal grooves in their sides. These grooves encourage roots to grow straight down and prevent root circling. When it comes time to plant our, you just open up the trainer and lift out the plant intact.
Root trainers closed and open
Root trainers in rack with humidity dome
Starting the seed. Sweet peas have a hard outer coat. Many people soak the seed in water for 24 hr. prior to sowing to allow the seed coat to soften. There are others that “pre-sprout” the seeds by placing them in a folded wet paper towel that is placed in a plastic Ziploc bag and left in a warm place. Seeds are checked, those that have begun to sprout are planted into prepared pots. I have done both and found that the paper towel method results in a better germination rate but takes place over a much longer time period. Sweet peas take on average 14 -21 days to germinate when kept at 55-65 F. This time frame can vary widely between different varieties. This year, one variety was above ground before the others had even made an appearance. Once germinated, I grow my seedlings along at 50F which encourages root development and less top growth. Sweet peas are a climbing vine and require pinching when they are about 6-8 inches. Pinching encourages side shoots to develop which results in a stronger bushier plant.
Seeds soaking (left) and seeds being presprouted in paper towel; Presprouted seed (right)
About a week before planting out, I start to harden the plants off in order that they will be able to withstand the move to outdoors in mid-April. Once hardened, they can be planted out.
Site selection. Sweet Peas prefer slightly alkaline, well drained soil that has been amended with organic matter (as they are heavy feeders). They should be kept moist and will require trellising. Although they are full sun plants, they benefit from protection the harsh afternoon summer sun. In my case, I grow them on two trellises on the east side of my brick house. This provides protection from the harsh western sunshine. As well, the brick of the house provides some warmth early in the season that helps to moderate any very cold weather events that may occur. The location near the house makes it easy to remember to provide supplemental water when needed.
Sweet Peas require deadheading or harvesting on a regular basis (twice per week) to prevent seed from developing as once seed formation takes place the plants ceases to flower. I harvest mine for cut flowers and while they have only a short vase life (4 days) the scent is wonderful in the house. During the heat of the summer, the plant will eventually stop flowering however it will start again in the cooler days of autumn.
A myriad of colours and varieties are available to choose from. Heritage varieties such as Cupani or Painted Ladies are still popular. There are many English Spencer types (large and very frilly although less tolerant of the heat). Modern selections such as Mammoth and Old Spice have been bred to be somewhat heat resistant. The Elegance series is a short day variety that can be planted for fall bloom.
Once you have sweet peas, you will find it difficult to go without them.
“Sweet peas were the kind of flowers fairies slept in.” Allison Pearson
In the heart of downtown Selwyn where a heavy winter blanket covers my gardens, a magical process is unfolding in the underworld of some of my plants.
In the heart of my living room, I’m actively crossing off the days until Spring.
But, back to the plants. To monitor the seasonal progression and to time their reproductive development, plants must be able to sense and remember environmental cues such as temperature. The process by which plants use a prolonged cold period – winter – to promote flowering is known as vernalization.
Vernalization is the botanical equivalent of a winter sleepover, but instead of cozying up with blankets and hot cocoa, plants snuggle up to the cold. This process is essential for plants like winter wheat, rye, and most spring flowering bulbs in our region. Basically it is a cold period where specific plants not only go dormant (they hit the pause button until the weather warms) but must be exposed to a certain number of days with minimum temperatures or they will not grow properly and flower. It acts as a sort of safety mechanism to ensure that the growing and blooming process takes place at the correct time.
Picture this: a seed or bulb lies dormant in the frozen soil, patiently waiting for winter’s icy touch. As the temperature drops, the plant detects the chill and starts a biochemical countdown for a certain number of days. It’s as if the cold serves as a bell ringer, signaling that it’s time to prepare for the grand spectacle of spring. It’s amazing that even in the harshest conditions, nature has its own way of orchestrating the grand spectacle of life.
So, in my living room I continue to mark the winter days off one by one, reminding myself that the bulbs I planted in October need a cold cold winter to make my garden spring to life. It will definitely be worth it!
As this year ends, I’m offering a few New Year’s resolutions for gardeners for 2024. If you want more of a challenge, the Chicago Botanic Garden offers 50.
Add Native Plants To Your Garden
We’re all seeing the effects of climate change on our gardens.
Native plants adapt more readily to stressful and changing weather patterns, such as prolonged droughts or winter cold snaps, than hybrids and non-natives often seen in our nurseries.
Native plants help sustain beneficial insects and bird populations because they attract native pollinators and birds that might not be drawn to non-natives.
Create less work for you, as native plants tend to be lower maintenance than non-native ones.
The Native Conservancy of Canada offers some suggestions to get you started, or consult with your local Master Gardener group or Horticultural Society.
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis
Start A Compost Bin
Composting helps keep waste out of landfill by collecting and processing organics into material that can be used to create nutrient-rich compost used to feed and nourish soil.
Canadian Living offers a simple outline, as shared by Ed Begley Jr.
Or more here from the Thames Region Ecological Association, including troubleshooting issues.
Compost bin
Grow More Of Your Own Food
The pandemic has highlighted how our agricultural systems are vulnerable to global shocks. Issues with supply chains, migrant workers, transport, trade and border closures have resulted in some foods being in short supply or prices going up (while quality goes down).
Insects do all the hard work, and all pollinators benefit.
Gardening provides benefits for your wallet, your nutrition, and reduces your environmental footprint. By growing your own food (either from seeds or small plants), your food is automatically more sustainable simply because you are doing it onsite or in a community garden. If you control the ‘inputs’ and do it well, you can save a lot of money.
Ultimately there is nothing more rewarding than planting and maintaining your own vegetable garden and harvesting (and sharing) your results. And we all know how much better homegrown produce tastes versus conventional produce at the grocery store. If you have too much produce, then you can just share the love with others!
Plastic is a major component in the garden, from plastic plant pots and seed trays to watering cans, and compost bins. Most plastic gardening equipment will end up in landfills, where plastic pots alone can take up to 500 years to decompose.
There are a few easy swaps you can make in going plastic-free: Many of us want to use less plastic in the garden, from plant labels to watering cans, tools, plant pots and the sheeting used to suppress weeds. Buying (and therefore using) less plastic will not only reduce your plastic footprint but also sends a message to manufacturers that gardeners want alternatives to plastic (especially single-use plastic).
Try to find biodegradable pots that made from natural materials such as coir, bamboo, wood chips, or seaweed (or commit to using your plastic pots year after year).
If you use plastic string, make the swap for a natural jute or hemp, and protect your fruits and vegetables with metal mesh instead of plastic netting – it lasts for years.
Find alternatives to plastic pots, or commit to using (and reusing them) for many years
Happy gardening dreams until we can get out into our gardens again….
Many gardeners plant and harvest their own herbs throughout the summer either in outdoor planters, garden beds or even indoors where the aroma can be enjoyed throughout the season. And for some, fresh herbs from the garden come to an end as the growing season tapers off and fall temperatures and cool nights prevail. However, enjoying your herb bounty throughout the winter is not only possible, but easy to do. Frozen herbs can be enjoyed throughout the winter (I have used mine up to six months after freezing) in soups, casseroles, and other cooked dishes, using the same quantities in recipes as you would if they were “fresh”. However, they do tend to darken in color with freezing and as such cannot be used in some applications where raw fresh herbs are required (such as pesto and/or garnish).
To freeze herbs, the process is as simple as this:
Harvest your herbs before the frost takes them from you,
Ensure that they are clean (wash if unsure) and pat dry,
Lay them flat (leaves and stems) on a tray,
Put in freezer for one hour (“flash freeze”),
Remove and place in labeled freezer bags, and
Remove the air from the bags (use of a vacuum sealer may be helpful if freezing individual batches for later use.
Herbs that freeze well for use later in cooking include Basil, Chives, Dill, Lemongrass, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon and Thyme. An interesting option is to make an herb blend from your favourite herbs that you enjoy together. To do this, simply use 2 cups of fresh herbs and 1/3 cup of olive oil and blend thoroughly in a blender. Place the paste in an ice cube tray to freeze and then place frozen cubes in an airtight bag. Simply use the “herb paste” in any of your favourite dishes. I have used rosemary, thyme, basil, oregano, and mint together in a skillet chicken dish with fresh lemon zest, garlic and orzo pasta…simply delicious!!!
Alternatively, fresh herbs can be dried, stored and used throughout the winter as well. The process is as simple as this:
Bundle together 3-6 stems and bind end with garden yarn/string (see pic above),
Hang upside down in a dry and dark location,
Wait 2-3 weeks for them to be completely dry (ensure stems are brittle), and
Remove leaves and store in airtight jars or bags and use as per recipe as a “dry spice”.
Personally, I cannot see my summer herb bounty go to waste. It is well worth the effort to freeze, dry and/or make a paste blend…ensuring that you have fresh herbs throughout the season. Just add this activity to your fall canning party and share the wealth 😊.
Most of us are familiar with using stem cuttings to make a replica of a specific plant. Less commonly used in Canada are root cuttings, a form of asexual reproduction which can be used to propagate a range of herbaceous perennials and even a few woody plants in the later part of autumn when plants have gone dormant (full plant listing in references).
Beauty of Livermere Oriental Poppies (parents)
Last fall, I determined that I would need approximately 25 new oriental poppy (Papaver orientale) plants to place at the back border of one of my beds. “Beauty of Livermere” was already planted in another bed and I wished to have more of that variety. However, poppies have tap roots and are notoriously difficult divide. As oriental poppies do not come true from seed when looking to reproduce a particular cultivar, root cuttings seemed to be the answer.
As I had never done this before, I choose to take cuttings at more than one time – late September, late October and in the end of December when we had a surprising warm spell. I lifted a couple of plants brushing away the soil from the roots (washing would have worked better). I selected out roots with a diameter of a pencil and cut them off with secateurs taking less than 1/3 of any one plant. The donor was replanted immediately (and the crown mulched for winter protection).
Next, the roots were cut into 2–4-inch (5-10 cm) lengths making a horizontal cut at the upper end (part that was closest to the plant crown) and an angled cut at the bottom. You must preserve the polarity of the cutting. They will not grow if planted upside down. I filled pots with a 50/50 mixture of potting soil and vermiculite (perlite also works). I inserted the cuttings vertically into compost, ensuring that the angled end of the cutting was put in first to preserve polarity. The compost was watered until it was moist and then put out in my extension for the winter where they would be cool but would not freeze. Root cuttings do not require light until green growth begins to show and they can be kept in the basement if need be.
2 months (left) and 3 months (right)
In my case, it took about 2 months before any of the cuttings showed any green. The September cuttings were a flop as only a single cutting out of 10 had growth (too early to take root cuttings). I had almost 100 % strike from both the October and December batch. The cuttings were in a high light area so as they grew on, I did repot them up. In late April, the new plants were hardened off and planted out. They grew well in their new location and I look forward to next year’s bloom.
Potted up separately
Planted out!!
There are other advantages to using root cuttings instead of other means of propagation:
Root cuttings require no special aftercare (no humidity bag etc)
Large numbers of new plants can be generated from a single parent plant (good for larger gardens)
Plants derived from root cuttings are relatively large and vigorous
Cuttings are taken in a quieter season when a gardener may have a bit of time (I don’t know about you, but my spring stem cuttings have a high failure rate as I don’t keep as close an eye on them as I should and they either burn up in the plastic humidity bag or dry out from lack of water)
Growing on…
Perennials such as Japanese anemones (Anemone hupehensis) and Phlox (Phlox paniculata) can be propagated in this way. These plants have thinner roots and contain less food reserves so it is recommended for these species to use longer sections (3-5 inches) and lay them horizontally on top of compost in a tray covering with a thin layer of compost.
Whatever plant you wish to propagate, give root cuttings a try. You may be pleasantly surprised.
For over 13 years, I have had a Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ (Smooth Hydrangea) in my garden. A few years ago, contractors put in a fence, and I thought it was a goner — trampled into the ground. It was their version of rejuvenation pruning.
Well, I learned they are hard to kill. Every summer there is a profusion of blooms. Every spring, some of the leaves are curled and fused together—a temporary home for Olethreutes ferriferana (Hydrangea Leaftier Moth) caterpillar—a native insect. Anecdotally, it seems to favour Hydrangea arborescens over others, although the food plant database for Tortricid (Leafroller) moths indicates simply Hydrangea spp.
Most sites I have seen online advise you to squish the caterpillars because they can cause a reduction in blooms. They feed on the leaves and the flower buds. While my Hydrangea has likely seen a reduction, I have not noticed. It does not affect the overall health of the plant. Another consideration is that often within these rolled-up leaves, spiders make their home. It is thought that they take up residence before the moth leaves but do not predate the caterpillar.[i] Year after year, I just let this moth complete its lifecycle.
In Integrated Pest Management (IPM) there is something called a threshold of action. Is the damage enough to warrant taking any action to control the pest? Is it possible that other beneficial organisms may be harmed in the process? If there are only a few blooms that could be affected, consider not doing anything.
Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ in July
Curled and fused leaves of Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ in June. Note the pupal skin hanging out of the leaf pouch—this indicates that there is no caterpillar within and the adult moth had exited.
Is it Real or an Imposter?
Last year I planted what I thought was Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop). It was a huge Bombus (Bumblebee) magnet and flowered virtually up until frost. It did not come back this spring — apparently it is considered a short-lived perennial, but in the end, I concluded that its demise was mainly due to a sustained dog pee assault. I am the crazy gardener that runs after my dogs with a watering can. I digress.
Agastache rugosa (Korean Mint) and a Bumblebee visitor
Like many in the mint family, there were many seedlings that popped up in its place. Fast forward to this week, and I noticed a discussion online about how some nurseries are inadvertently selling Agastache rugosa (Korean Mint) instead of A. foeniculum.
After careful inspection, I am now certain that I am one of many who got the non-native species. “Both these species are aromatic and have flowers of similar colors, but Korean mint has rugose, dark green leaves with cordate bases, whereas Anise Hyssop has shiny, bright green leaves with feltlike undersides and cunate bases.”[ii] The undersides of the leaves of A. rugosa also have little indentations (areoles) that A. foeniculum lacks.[iii]
Underside of Agastache rugosa leaf
The question is, should I keep it in my garden? A field study of Agastache spp. in Iowa over a three-year period found that more Apis mellifera (European Honey Bee) visited the Korean Mint and hybrids than Anise Hyssop.[iv]
Judging from the number of Bumblebees on the few plants that sprung up this year, it would seem like a keeper. If I were to find and plant Anise Hyssop, there would be a high probability that it would cross-pollinate with the Korean Mint, creating hybrid plants. According to the literature, these hybrids are sterile[v] and so there would not be a problem of the hybrids re-seeding. Korean Mint is also morphologically like Anise Hyssop.[vi] This means that there is a greater chance that pollinators can benefit from the non-native species. I am waffling.
[i] Boggs, Joe. Hydrangea Leaftier. Buckeye Yard and Garden Online. May 22, 2022. Ohio State University. Online: https://bygl.osu.edu/node/1979 Accessed August 24, 2023
[ii] Widrlechner, Mark P. A Field Evaluation of Native Mint Family Plants as Honey Bee Forage in Iowa. Proceedings of the Twelfth North American Prairie Conference 1990. p. 40. Online: https://dr.lib.iastate.edu/handle/20.500.12876/55985 Accessed: August 24, 2023.
[iii] Serres, Terry. Buyer Beware. Agastache foeniculum vs. Agastache rugosa. September 2018.
[v] Vogelmann, James E. “Crossing Relationships among North American and Eastern Asian Populations of Agastache Sect. Agastache (Labiatae).” Systematic Botany 10, no. 4 (1985): p. 451. Online: https://doi.org/10.2307/2419137 Accessed: August 24, 2023.
When spring finally arrives, gardeners are outside daily looking for signs of life in our flower beds. Snowdrops, crocus, tulips and daffodils along with many other spring bulbs give us that pop of colour we have missed. Hellebores, primula, magnolia, Iris reticulata, lungwort are all beginning to bloom. Spring perennials like ground phlox, poppies, pasque flowers, daylilies are showing their green shoots and will soon be flowering. Bleeding Hearts, trilliums, lupins and salvia are all growing in leaps and bounds.
Bleeding heart is well on its way
This past April, we experienced a week of abnormally hot weather that encouraged plants like peonies to jump up. Note to self – get peony rings up. The return to “normal” temperatures is better for all the plants. And it reminds us that spring is an unpredictable season and we can’t rush it.
As gardeners, we need to practice a bit of patience. We need to leave our gardens to thaw, give the soil time to warm up and give the overwintering insects time to awaken from the garden litter we are so excited to “clear up”. We also need to be aware that not all perennials show life at the same time.
Hostas show their poking dark shoots just as we are getting into the flower beds, so we need to watch when stepping around or moving mulch in those gardens. Perennial Hibiscus are probably one of the the later showing perennials that will look dead until mid June. Be patient! When Hibiscus decide to begin growing, they grow quickly, inches in a day. Lilacs are making buds and maples are leafing out, but hydrangeas are still looking asleep. Although early flowering clematis like Blue Bird and other group 1 types will be popping up, later bloomers with still be sleeping. Don’t despair. Be patient!
Hibiscus is very late to show growth
Grasses can also be deceptive. Cool season grasses begin to grow in early spring and have reached their best by mid summer. Karl Foerster, which is a Calamagrostis or feather reed grass is a well known cool season, zone 5 grass that grows 5′- 6′ tall. It likes sun, will take it wet or dry and tolerates poor soil. Overdam and Avalanche are two other feather reed grasses that will be showing green now.
Cool season grass
Warm season grasses do not come up until June and are at their best in fall. They will look dead until the weather warms up. Patience! Because they will not show green until later in the spring, you can plant warm season grasses behind other earlier growing perennials to hide their brown bottoms.
Warm season grass
Miscanthus grasses are warm season types and are available in different heights from 3′ to 8′ tall. Miscanthus sinensis & M. Sacchariflorus are classed as invasives, spreading by rhizomes and seeds. Other warm season grasses include Japanese Forest Grass or Hakonechloa, Japanese Blood Grass and Sedges. Panicum or switch grass is a warm season grass with many varieties native to North America. ‘Northwind’ is the most commonly know variety and it is drought resistant, will grow in any type soil and likes full sun.
Native grasses like Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), Big Blue Stem (Andropogon gerardii) and Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) are warm season grasses. These are beautiful additions to your garden, but will not green up until the weather warms.
May is the most active month in the garden. Sometimes we forget to enjoy the moments, slow down, breath deeply and have patience. New wonders will be happening for many days ahead. Enjoy them!
Despite the lingering snow, the longer days and stronger sun tell us that spring is indeed here! With that we begin to think about all of the chores we wish to accomplish. Division of perennials is a common task. So why do we divide?
Division is a common means of vegetative propagation. It is an easy way to increase the number of plants you have available. Division is also required maintenance for some perennials in order to achieve maximum bloom year after year. Although a fairly simple process, there are a couple of considerations you must make.
Time of Year
Because successful division depends on the growth of new roots, the best times of the year to divide are spring and fall when the soil is warm, water is available and stressors are at a minimum.
Many perennials can also be divided during the summer months but high temperatures mean an increase in water loss. This leads to a stressed plant so extra care must be provided to ensure the plant remain well hydrated. Also, there are some ornamental grasses that only grow new roots in the spring. These plants should not be divided in the fall as they will not grow new roots that can take up water.
Method of Division
This will depend on the type of root and crown system the plant has. No matter the type of plant, keep in mind that each plant division must contain at least one bud or growing point and a few healthy roots. If you are unsure of the what you are dealing with, there is a link to a list from the University of Minnesota at the end of this blog.
Clumpers – These plants often have fibrous root systems sometimes with rhizomes but grow many smaller crowns at the base of the original each having its own root system. This often makes for easy separation with little tissue damage. Examples include ajuga, daylily and hosta.
Runners – These are plants that spread by covering the ground by shallow horizontal stems. They root along their nodes and send up new shoots making them easily dividable by separating the root ball. Examples include bee balm and goldenrod.
Tight, woody crowns – These plants are a little more challenging to divide as the buds are often tightly packed on a hardened crown. For best results the plant must be older when split to ensure that divisions with have growing points. Examples include baptisia and peony.
Thick rhizomes or tubers – Rhizomes are technically stems that grow underground. Divided sections must contain at least one growing eye. Examples in this group would be bearded iris and dahlia. These varieties should only be divided when dormant.
Tap rooted plants –These cannot rarely be divided unless multiple tap roots have developed and are better propagated by using root cuttings. Plants in this group includes oriental poppies.
Basic Steps for Division
Dig out the plant. If not replanting immediately, protect from desiccation. Removing the plant from the ground can destroy tiny root hairs (responsible for water uptake). Protecting the plant means a faster recovery on the division is replanted. I often place the root ball in a plastic bag and place in a shaded area.
Separate your plant into pieces using the most appropriate method. Make sure to take generous divisions of sufficient size to ensure growing points and healthy roots.
Replant, digging hole wide enough. Roots like to grow out and down so give them enough space to spread out. Be sure that the soil has good contact with the root system by firming the soil then water the division in, slowly allowing the soil to further settle against the roots.
The Peterborough & Area Master Gardeners 