Category Archives: Information

Snow Laughing Matter: Why Winter’s White Blanket Deserves Respect

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

Snow after Christmas has a public relations problem. It blocks driveways and arrives just in time for the morning commute. But ecologically speaking, snow is a quiet hero; less frozen nuisance, more life-support system.

Freshly fallen snow is light and fluffy, packed with tiny air pockets that make it an excellent insulator. This airy layer acts like a thermal blanket, keeping soil temperatures relatively stable even when the air above plummets. Beneath it, plants are spared damaging freeze–thaw cycles, roots avoid frost heave, and soil microbes continue their slow, essential work (Pauli et al., 2021; Saccone et al., 2013).

Image by Jürgen from Pixabay

As snow ages, it settles and compresses into denser layers. Below these compressed layers is a gap between the snow and soil, the subnivean zone—a hidden world of tunnels for voles, mice, shrews, and overwintering insects. Stable snow layers mean stable winter habitat for these creatures which directly influences survival migrating birds and awakening mammals (Pauli et al., 2021).

The subnivean zone — Photo Credit:  AI generated Image 

Snow also plays the long game. Acting like a frozen reservoir, it stores winter precipitation and releases it slowly during melt. This gradual release recharges groundwater, sustains streams, and prevents spring flooding. Crucially, snowmelt fills ephemeral pools—temporary wetlands that appear just long enough for frogs, salamanders, and invertebrates to breed before drying out. These pools are biodiversity hotspots, and many amphibians depend on them entirely for reproduction (Brooks, 2004).

Climate change, however, is rewriting snow’s script. Warmer winters mean thinner, more variable snowpacks, frequent mid-winter melts, and icy crusts instead of fluffy insulation. These unstable layers expose soil and roots to harsh temperature swings, collapse subnivean habitats, and increase winter mortality for small mammals and plants alike (Saccone et al., 2013; Pauli et al., 2021). Reduced snowpack also means less spring meltwater, shrinking ephemeral pools and compressing breeding windows for amphibians.

In short, inconsistent snow is not just inconvenient; it’s ecologically disruptive. When snow comes late, melts early, or freezes into ice instead of insulating layers, entire food webs feel the impact. And we are feeling it this year.  

The next time snowflakes fall, take a moment. That squeaky, shovelled nuisance is buffering ecosystems, storing water, protecting roots, and quietly setting the stage for spring. Snow may be cold, but for nature, it’s doing some very warm-hearted work.

References 

Brooks, R. T. (2004). Weather-related effects on woodland vernal pool hydrology and hydroperiod. Wetlands, 24(1), 104–114. https://doi.org/10.1672/0277-5212(2004)024[0104:WREOWV]2.0.CO;2

Pauli, J. N., Zuckerberg, B., Whiteman, J. P., & Porter, W. (2021). The subnivium: A deteriorating seasonal refugium. BioScience, 71(8), 820–831. https://academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/71/8/820/6213245

Saccone, P., Morin, S., Baptist, F., et al. (2013). The effects of snowpack properties and soil frost on plant and microbial communities. Ecology, 94(7), 1617–1630. https://esajournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1890/12-1327.1

Photo Credit:  AI generated Image 

Image by joelk51 from Pixabay

Time for Reading Garden Books

by Christine Freeburn, Master Gardener

In this day and age, we spend so much time on our computers, googling all the information we want and need. But there is something about sitting by a sunny window on a cold winter’s day with a good book.

The winter months are a great time to pull out an old gardening book or invest in a new one. The days are now getting longer and spring is coming, but actual gardening is a few months away. Time to learn something new to help you improve your gardening skills. There are many good Canadian and zone appropriate books that can help you.

Below, I have listed a few of my favourite books on my bookshelf. I have also asked my fellow Master Gardeners to share their favourites. Some of the books are out of print, but check your local library, used book stores or online sites. Enjoy!

For the Houseplant Gardener

The New Plant Parent

Darryl Cheng gives advice that is full of common sense. He explains that leaves do die and plant care should be enjoyable, not a chore. He discusses basic requirements for healthy plants including the right light, soil care and proper watering. Great illustrations and nineteen plant varieties are listed in detail. Look for his newer books also.

For the Vegetable Gardener

Plant Partners

Companion planting has been around for years. Jessica Walliser gives us “science-based companion planting strategies” that help with disease and pests, improves soil and supports pollinators. Lovely illustrations throughout will have you dreaming of your next vegetable garden.

Growing Under Cover

Niki Jabbour is the Canadian half of the popular website Savvy Gardening (along with Jessica Walliser). She has several books out, but this one gives great information about how to reduce pests with row covers. Niki has several books out, so check them out.

The Kitchen Garden

Peterborough MG Silvia Strobl first toured Patrick Lima and John Scanlan’s garden on the Bruce Peninsula over 40 years ago and was inspired by both their colourful perennial and productive vegetable gardens. Each spring, she still refers to this book’s excellent information to refresh her memory on time to sow, spacing, thinning, harvesting, etc. for the vegetable crops she grows! Unfortunately, this book is out of print, but you may find a used copy online.

Incredible Edibles

This book by Sonia Day is recommended by Peterborough MG Deb Fraser. It is very basic for the beginner gardener. It answers when, where, how, as well as other questions for herbs and vegetables. She even gives a recipe for each plant. Another book that is out of print. Try used book sites.

Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices & Flavorings

Deb also suggests the Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices & Flavorings, a cook’s compendium by Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz. Originally British but published in Canada by Readers Digest, 1992. It is beautifully illustrated and very detailed about the origin of herbs, spices, oils, sauces, coffees and teas around the world. She details the origin of these, how to cook with them and a recipe. When the weather is frightful with a nice warm drink in hand it makes for interesting reading, perhaps planning to add a few herbs to your garden next spring.

For the Perennial Gardener

The Well-Tended Perennial Garden

Peterborough MG Gladys Fowler’s favourite book is the Well Tended Perennial Garden. Tracy DiSabato-Aust’s book has an extensive encyclopedia of perennial species and cultivars and she explains the maintenance and pruning needs of each plant. The explanations and illustrations are excellent.

For the Native Plant Enthusiast

The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region

For Peterborough MG Emma Murphy, definitely this one on native plant gardening – for our region, gives everything you need to know about growing the plant, including propagation, wildlife value and what butterflies and moths it is a larva host for. For a full book review she did on Rick Gray and Shaun Booth’s book when it was published in 2024 click here.

A Garden for the Rusty-Patched Bumblebee

Peterborough MG Sharleen Pratt says this book by Lorraine Johnson and Sheila Colla not only goes into great detail about Ontario native plants, vines, shrubs and trees, but it also encourages us all to think about the spaces we create so that pollinators can thrive.

For the Environmentalist

Our Green Heart

Peterborough MG Carol Ireland says it feels good to sit down and read something that requires absolute attention while at the same time causes you to make all the connections between what you are reading and the place trees have in the survival of our planet. This one by Diana Beresford-Kroeger is also on my reading list!

What is your favourite gardening book? What do you have on your list to find and read next? Eleven more weeks till spring!

Check out previous reviews on our website

Favourites From My Bookshelf

Four Great Books

Growing Wilderness in the United Kingdom

By Thom Luloff, Master Gardener in Training

This autumn, I’ve had the incredible experience of doing a teaching exchange at Hartpury University in Gloucestershire, England.  In between teaching, hiking, and bird banding, I was able to cycle over 300 miles of beautiful English country lanes, stopping at castles, nature reserves, and some incredible gardens along the way.

Hidcote Manor

Walking through the gates of Hidcote Manor in the Cotswolds, it is easy to feel as though you’ve stepped into a painting. The clipped hedges, winding paths, and carefully designed garden rooms are alive with the hum of pollinators and the flutter of birds. Down the road at Sudeley Castle, wildflower meadows are stitched into the landscape, part of a growing movement in the UK to “rewild” gardens, restore soils through regenerative farming practices, and build habitats that bring nature (yes, hedgehogs!) back into cultivated spaces.  Interactive songbird huts, topiary animals, and forest school playforts do their best to situate nature at the heart for all ages.

Hidcote Manor

As a Conservation Biologist, this experience has offered very good perspective.  In Britain, every hedge, flower border, and restored meadow is a choice made against the backdrop of land pressure. With centuries of agricultural intensification and urban sprawl, biodiversity has been whittled down and what is left is very small, isolated, and still heavily managed by humans.  The birds that flit in the hedgerows, the butterflies in the long grasses, and the rare orchids tucked into meadow corners are treasures precisely because they are fragile—and rare.

Hidcote Manor

This sense of loss combined with preciousness shapes the way the British approach gardening: nature is folded into design not as ornament but as necessity. Even the grandest estates now showcase pollinator gardens, bird-friendly planting, and soil-friendly techniques that acknowledge the land’s limits.  My teaching partner in the department here summed this up pithily when she said: “We don’t conserve wilderness, we have to grow it alongside our tomatoes.” 

Hidcode Manor

This past summer, much of Britain faced a severe drought. Gardens once lush with green lawns and blooming perennials turned brittle and brown, testing the resilience of even the most historic estates. For visitors, it was a stark reminder that climate change is rewriting the rules of gardening everywhere. Those manicured, clipped expanses of green that once symbolized order and wealth are now increasingly viewed as unsustainable. Pressure is mounting for landowners to let go of the perfect lawn and instead embrace wilder, woodier landscapes that store carbon, provide shade, and create habitat for wildlife. What was once considered unruly is being reimagined as resilience—an acceptance that in the face of climate change, neatness cannot take precedence over nature.

For Canadians, the contrast is striking. Canada is a country of seeming abundance: boreal forests that stretch for thousands of kilometers, wetlands that teem with migratory birds, and prairies that still hold echoes of bison herds. Diversity here can feel endless, and because of that, sometimes it is taken for granted.  

Yet, abundance should not breed complacency. Canada faces its own ecological crises—loss of grasslands, declining pollinator populations, and habitat fragmentation in every province. There is much to learn from Britain’s careful stewardship of what little remains, especially in recognizing that a garden is not just personal space, but part of a shared ecological fabric.

Standing between the flower borders of Hidcote and the meadows of Sudeley, the lesson is clear. British gardens show how intentionality can transform even limited landscapes into havens of biodiversity, while Canadian gardens remind us of the wealth we still have—and the responsibility to protect it. In both places, the garden is more than a private retreat. It is a living classroom, teaching us how to care for what is precious, whether rare or abundant, in a changing world.

Thom Luloff is a Professor of Conservation Biology at Fleming College.

Toxic Indoor Plants and Your Pets: A Guide

by Emma Murphy, Master Gardener

While I like to think of myself as a decent outdoor gardener, the same cannot be said of my indoor houseplant expertise.

However, I have worked hard at it over the years and we’ve had some lovely Clivia, various cactus, some Pothos, a Norfolk Island pine, and a goldfish plant (Columnea gloriosa) in my office at various times.

My pre-2018 houseplants (my Mum’s cat Cleo showed no interest at all)

This was pre-2018, when my indoor kitties had no interest in my houseplants, and no nibbles were had.

That all changed when these two arrived in October 2018 – meet Lulu and Roxy.

Meet Lulu and Roxy – our tuxedo and ginger and white female cats (respectively).

While I love both of them, Lulu’s favourite activities are digging in the dirt and chewing on plants. Roxy just likes to rub up against them, knock them over and then maybe have a nibble.

While indoor plants can add beauty and life to your home, it’s essential to be aware of their potential toxicity to our furry friends. Certain plants can be harmful or even fatal to pets, especially cats and dogs. Understanding which plants are safe and which to avoid is crucial for ensuring a pet-friendly environment.

Many common indoor plants are toxic to pets, such as Pothos (Devil’s Ivy), which causes vomiting and oral irritation in cats and dogs, lilies (which are particularly dangerous for cats) and sago palms, which are extremely toxic, especially to dogs, causing severe liver damage. The Ontario SPCA has a list of the 17 most poisonous plants, but it’s not an exhaustive list.

If you suspect your pet has ingested a toxic plant, it’s best to consult a veterinarian immediately. Look for signs such as difficulty breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, or lethargy. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.

Reliable Resources on Plant Toxicity for Pet Owners

Here are some reputable websites offering advice on pet safety and plant toxicity:

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals’ (ASPCA’s) Animal Poison Control Center
A comprehensive and excellent searchable list of toxic and non-toxic plants.

Pet Poison Helpline Canada
Assistance for pet owners who suspect poisoning, including plant toxicity resources (there is a cost).

PetMD
Plants poisonous to cats
Plants poisonous to dogs
Detailed information on animal health and safety, including plant toxicity.

So What Plants Can I Have In My House?

If you’re looking to enhance your home with pet-friendly plants, here are a few options for you to consider. Personally, I find the palms, ferns and spider plants still tough to have in our house because I think our cats will gravitate to anything that is grass-like.

Unfortunately if your cat or dog is a habitual nibbler, you might be better off without houseplants altogether. We love our kitties more than we love our houseplants. For now I’ll just stick to my Phalaenopsis orchids and my various seasonal cactus and focus my gardening efforts on the outside of our house.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
African Violet  (Saintpaulia ionantha)
Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)
Orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.)
Easter, Christmas or Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera or Rhipsalidopsi spp.)
Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae)      
Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea seifrizii)
Sword/Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
Nerve Plant (Fittonia)   
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Hoya (Hoya carnosa)   
Gerber Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii)         
Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)
Calathea (Calathea spp.)
Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa)
Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
Friendship Plant (Pilea involucrata)

Also have a look at this Laidback Gardener post.

When Plants + Sun = Trouble

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

Have you ever gotten a weird red rash or burn after spending time outside? If you were pulling weeds or brushing up against certain plants, you might’ve had something called phytophotodermatitis. It sounds scary, but it’s really just a fancy name for a skin reaction that happens when plant juice meets sunshine.

Here’s how it works: some plants (like wild parsnip, giant hogweed, gas plant (Dictamnus), citrus fruits, dill, parsley, celery, fennel and even carrots) have natural chemicals in them called furanocoumarins. When these chemicals get on your skin and are then exposed to sunlight — especially strong summer sun — your skin can react. It might not hurt at first, but after a day or so you might notice red patches, streaks, or even blistering. It often looks like a burn or a splash mark.

People sometimes mistake it for poison ivy, but phytophotodermatitis is different. Poison ivy causes allergic contact dermatitis due to the urushiol oil in its sap. Phytophotodermatitis is not an allergic reaction, and it doesn’t usually itch. It’s more like a sunburn that was triggered by a plant.

Sometimes the blistering can be quite severe.

The good news? It usually goes away on its own in a few weeks, though it can leave behind darker patches of skin for a while. Severe burns may require medical treatment, including potential debridement (removal of damaged tissue) and skin grafts. Protect the affected area from sunlight for an extended period to prevent further irritation.

To avoid it, wear gloves when gardening, wash your skin after handling plants outdoors, and try to avoid sun exposure right after. And if you’re chopping limes for drinks on a sunny patio — wash your hands and arms!

It’s a sneaky kind of sunburn (or worse!), but a little knowledge goes a long way in preventing it.

Why Do Vines Twine and Other Garden Curiosities

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

During the gardening season you may find yourself wondering about how plants work.  This quick garden jeopardy game is just the thing to answer some of those burning questions you may have.

This plant pigment acts as a sunscreen for plants, is a powerful antioxidant protecting plants from various environmental stressors and due to its mobility in water it can transport important substances to parts of the plant that need them.  This pigment is responsible for a temporary condition called juvenile reddening. It acts as a sunscreen for tender young leaves.  It may also help young leaves hang onto their water during expansion.  What are Anthocyanins?

Photo:  Lois Scott   Juvenile Reddening of Witch-hazel leaves

This plant hormone controls rooting, stem elongation and directional growth.  It is why shoots grow towards the light and roots grow down.  If a sun-loving plant is suffering in too little light it will have sparse leaves that are larger and paler than normal, leggy (etiolated) stems and will lean towards the sun with most of the leaves on the sunny side.  What is Auxin?

This plant movement (tropism) causes some plants like sunflowers to track the sun.  A pigment (cryptochrome) absorbs blue light from the sun and uses it as a means to tell time.  Cryptochrome sends a signal to the base of the leaf or flower where a pulvinus (a specialized, swollen structure) moves the leaf or flower to the right angle.  What is Heliotropism?

This plant movement (tropism) causes the turning and bending of plants including the winding of vines and tendrils.  Physical contact is the stimulus for this action.  In vines, auxins are lowest where the tendril touches the support and highest on the opposite side.  The high levels of auxin cause the cells on that side to grow longer, curving the tendril around the structure.  What is Thigmotropism?

Photo:  Lois Scott   Twining Tendrils of Clematis

           

Thank you for playing the game!  The material used is from the book ‘How Plants Work’ by Dr. Linda Chalker Scott, Timber Press, 2015.  This excellent resource has answered many questions for me and one I return to when I need to refresh my memory or when I wish to marvel at just ‘How Plants Work’.  Any misinterpretations are my own!

Pests & Diseases in the Summer Garden

By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

Now that we finally have some warm weather, we welcome the highest populations of insect pests and diseases that we will experience throughout the year in the garden. Here I will highlight some general principals of pest management to achieve thriving plants, a delicious harvest (if we’re talking vegetables) and a healthy, balanced ecosystem in your garden.

  1. Healthy Soil = Healthy Plants

Plants have many adaptive mechanisms to protect themselves and keep themselves alive. Healthy soil provides plants the tools they need to do this. Achieve this with addition of organic matter, adequate moisture and space for the roots to grow (ie. minimal compaction). Deficiencies and imbalances can render them susceptible to pest damage.

If you’re not feeding the soil, the soil is feeding on itself.

2.Resistant/Tolerant Varieties

Look for seeds/plants that have built in resistance to common pest or disease problems you have dealt with in the past. This is often noted in seed guides, like the photo below or on plant labels.

Source: westcoastseeds.com

3. Crop Rotation

Simply moving your vegetables around each year allows for better nutrient availability to each plant type but also makes it harder for the pests/diseases to find your plants.

Utilizing some beds, cover cropping/tarping others

4. Monitor Regularly

Keep an eye on your garden, daily if possible. This way you can spot problems early and manage them while they are small.

“The best medicine for the garden is the gardener.”

5. Reduce overhead watering

Overhead watering increases risk of disease transmission from soil to plant and from plant to plant. The water can splash up from the soil onto the leaves, bringing disease with them. It can also sit on the leaves of the plant and make an excellent environment for fungal pathogens to thrive.

Left: Much to retain moisture Right: Drip irrigation or soaker hoses

6. Promote Ventilation

Trellising, pruning and adequate spacing can help reduce the risk of infestations and disease.

Tomato plant with the bottom leaves and extra foliage pruned off.

7. Removal of diseased plants & Sanitation

If caught early, a plant with diseased parts may be saved by removing the damaged portion before it spreads to the whole plant or its neighbours. 

Always be sure to sanitize your tools and hands between plants to prevent spread.

The tools used to remove diseased plant material can transfer disease to other plants.

8. Learn your pest’s life cycle

Learning how the pest overwinters, when it emerges and begins to reproduce, and what stages of its growth it is a threat to your plants will help you to decide how to manage a pest more efficiently.

Many defoliators are only a problem during their larval stage.

9. Attract natural predators

Beneficial insects and organisms help keep the pests in check. Flowers like sweet alyssum, nasturtium and marigolds are commonly known for attracting insects that feed on common garden insect pests. Choose single or heirloom varieties to maximize pollen availability. Birds are also excellent bug eaters. 

Left: Sweet Alyssum Right: Nasturium

10. Prevention using Barriers

Insect netting for both flying and crawling bugs or fencing for deer/rabbits can help keep pests from becoming a problem.

Insect netting to keep the winged insects off.

11. Chemicals are only a short term ‘solution’.

Pesticides should always be thoroughly researched and used mindfully. They often come at a cost, harm both beneficial organisms and pests, and may not be good for your own health. They can help keep problem populations in check but can also just put the problem off temporarily only to be experienced again in future seasons. They are often not a long term or sustainable pest management solution.

(There is only water in this jug).

12. Fight pests with life, not death.

Create opportunities for the garden to balance its own ecosystem out by allowing as much biodiversity of plants, critters, microbes, and humans as possible.

Left: Girls in the garden Right: Annuals, perennials, flowers, edibles and volunteers are all welcome in this garden.

Is there a Fungus Among Us?

By Mary-Jane Pilgrim, Master Gardener

It’s finally spring and that means that soon there will be an explosion in our gardens and yards. I can’t wait! When I survey my lawn (yes, I still have lawn), I can see patches that will need some attention: especially raking and overseeding. I’m hoping that the skunks don’t come to visit this year, which indicates the presence of white grubs.

What I cannot see yet, but know that they’re going to appear in some of the wetter areas: mushrooms. Mushrooms popping up in your lawn in the spring is actually pretty normal and usually nothing to worry about. Here’s what’s going on:

Why they grow:

  • Moisture: Spring brings rain and warming temps—perfect conditions for fungi to grow.
  • Organic matter: Mushrooms feed on decaying stuff underground like old tree roots, buried wood, mulch, or even thatch in your lawn.
  • Healthy soil: Ironically, mushrooms can be a sign your soil is rich in organic material and biologically active.

Are they bad?

  • For your lawn? Nope! Mushrooms don’t harm the grass. They’re just the fruiting bodies of underground fungi doing their natural recycling job.
  • For pets/kids? Some wild mushrooms can be toxic if eaten, so it’s wise to remove them if you have curious little ones or pets around.

Can you stop them?

You can’t totally prevent mushrooms, but you can reduce them:

  • Improve drainage (mushrooms love dampness).
  • Rake up thatch and remove any rotting wood or roots.
  • Don’t overwater.
  • Mow regularly to knock them down.

In summary, mushrooms in a lawn are generally not harmful and can even be beneficial, as they help break down organic matter and release nutrients into the soil.

Resources

https://scotts.com/en-ca/how-to-control/how-to-identify-get-rid-of-prevent-lawn-mushrooms-in-your-home-garden.html

Deadwood in the Garden

By Lois Scott, Master Gardener

It was my sister that put the notion in my head that I would like a snag in my garden and the recent ice storm provided the opportunity.  A standard Serviceberry cultivar was too broken to save but it left a reasonable and safe trunk for my smallish garden.  It also left some small logs to tuck under shrubs.

Dead wood provides positive impacts to biodiversity as many beneficial species are on the search for dead wood.  ‘Some of these species include cavity nesting birds and mammals, beetles, fungi and other plants and beneficial insects.  Decaying wood positively impacts soil keeping your garden sustainable for years to come’.  https://ecologicaldesignlab.ca/site/uploads/2024/12/04_good-garden-practices.pdf 

Ecologically speaking a snag refers to a standing dead or dying tree, often missing a top or most of the smaller branches.  A snag is also known as a den, cavity or wildlife tree.  The following link (Ottawa Field Naturalists’ Club) provides an excellent description of the importance of wildlife trees to wildlife.  They provide food, safe cavity nesting sites and platforms, roosting and denning sites, hunting perches, display stations and foraging sites for a wide variety of species.  https://ofnc.ca/conservation-how-to/the-importance-of-snags-and-downed-logs-to-wildlife

Safety first so have a certified arborist advise you on the appropriateness of a potential tree.

Photo:  Top of the snag in author’s garden

Dead wood that is lying in your garden is an excellent addition.  It will be quickly colonized by natural decay fungi known as saprophytic fungi, my new word of the day!  These fungi help recycle the carbon and nutrients stored in woody tissue back into the garden soil which benefits your plants.  A small pile of logs can support many different insects and provide shelter for small mammals, reptiles and amphibians and shelter for over-wintering and hibernating wildlife.  https://www.rhs.org.uk/wildlife/dead-wood-compost-heap-habitats  This may not make everybody’s heart sing but I like the idea.

Photo:  A favourite chunk of wood in author’s garden

The small snag I now have may be more ecologically beneficial as a log on the ground but I have some ideas for it.  I plan on providing some support on it for a vine, maybe a Apios americana (American Groundnut).  There will probably be a small birdhouse attached.  The new logs have joined other decaying wood that I use as garden edging and garden decoration. 

One man’s garbage is another man’s treasure!

The Mysterious Magic of Maple Syrup

By Rachel Foebel, Master Gardener in Training

Recently, I have grown to love maple syrup for more than just its delicious taste. The harvesting and boiling of the sap brings me outside in the fresh air during a time of year when I need it most. But I’ve wondered what makes this harvest season so short, so specific and so unique.

First, the Sap

A cross section of a hardwood tree

During the growing season, sugars needed for tree growth are created via photosynthesis and stored in the tree as starches in the sapwood. When the weather cools, starches are converted back to sugars and passed into water flowing through the xylem of the tree, creating sap.

How Water Moves Through the Tree

Typically, water moves up the tree from the roots through cell channels called xylem. Since the xylem is made up of dead elongated cells, these cells don’t contribute to the movement of the water, they rely on pressure gradients. In maples, a unique pressure is present in the springtime, but only when it freezes at night and thaws during daytime.

A diagram of a plant cell

Maple Magic in Spring Time

Just outside of the xylem vessels are dead wood fibre cells with air inside. When the temperature drops in the evening, the smaller branches at the top of the tree freeze first, and sap frost collects in the air-filled wood fibre cells surrounding the sap-filled xylem. This creates suction, pulling sap up the tree. When the temperature rises in the morning, the frost melts and falls down the tree through the xylem by both gravity and pressure created by the warming air in the wood fibre cells. This is when you get to collect!

What about Fall?

But wait! We don’t just get freezing at night and above freezing daytimes in the spring. That happens in the fall too. Can you tap maple trees and make syrup in the fall too? The answer is yes, but researchers have found you won’t get as much as springtime, and the sap won’t be as sweet. Additionally, it will reduce the sweeter springtime sap yields as well. Worth it? Probably not.   

The Pros Know What They’re Doing

Tapping only once a year also helps to reduce injury and therefore risks to the tree caused by severing its protective layers and exposing it to external factors. Hobbyists and large-scale producers alike want to foster a healthy tree that provides delicious syrup for years to come.

References

Giesting, K. (2020). Maple Syrup. Climate Change Resource Centre. www.fs.usda.gov/ccrc/topics/maple-syrup

Merhaut, D. J. (Feb, 1999). How do large trees, such as redwoods, get water from their roots to the leaves? Scientific American. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/how-do-large-trees-such-a/

Tyree, M. (Jan, 1984). Maple Syrup Exudation: How it Happens. Maple Syrup Journal. 4(1). 10-11.https://www.uvm.edu/~uvmaple/maplesapexudation.pdf